Problem with my march pump...

Ok I don't know what is the problem with it but it always doesn't want to pump from the boilling kettle to the mash tun..

Ok I don't know how to put a picture on the forum so hers a link of my instalation (well just the pump and tubing)... http://www.brassageamateur.com/forum/images/uploads/090129051550.jpg

On left you can see the ... dam I can't remember the name in english...Well in french is the tampon but let say its the kettle that keep my wort while a sparge.:fro:....On the right you can see the boilling kettle and on top of the wood table there's the mash tun (That we don't see on picture)

Do someone have an idea why its work from tampon to mash tun but not boilling to mash tun..... As you can see they are on the same line (I use a T in barb to connect them all together)....

If you want to see more here the link: Brassage Amateur.com • Afficher le sujet - Pico Le Syphon

Hello and welcome to the forum. Where is McMasterville? Are you from France or maybe Belgium? It was interesting to check out the link and pictures.

When you post a reply, there is an icon in the tool bar for inserting pictures. You must have the pictures hosted on a server such as Flickr or Photobucket, then just hit the "insert image" icon and copy the url to the pics on the host server.

It's hard to tell much from the small pictures, but my best guess is that the pump is cavitating when you attempt to pump the near boiling wort. I would suggest using larger diameter hoses and keep them as short as you conveniently can. The boiling point is lower for hot wort subjected to suction and this can create vapor pockets which will interfere with the pump and may cause it to lose its prime. Small diameter hoses or restrictions at fittings can also cause cavitation. Often, it's a combination of wort temp, hose size, hose length and restrictions at fittings that cause problems.

May I ask why you want to pump from the boil kettle to the mash tun?

Tampon has an entirely different definition over here. I don't think we need to go there. I'll settle for the kettle that you keep your wort in while you sparge. Close enough!

From the looks of your brewery, you will fit right in here!

+1 on losing your prime. Also possible hops restriction in line or disconnect especially with leaf hops.

McMasterville is a town near Montréal in Canada , Québec

ok well I forget to mention... I use the boilling kettle to add water to the mash tun... I don't have a hot plate or an element inside the mash tun... it's like for the person who use those orange cooler for mash tun... but me its stainless... which I prefer way more....


For the pump what you said have some sence... but some use this kind of pump to recirculate the wort while they are chilling it and also I saw some instalation with almost the same diameter of tubing and longer than in my instalation.... So I'm kind of confused... But I said it make sence because I really needed the wort to move from the boilling keetle to the heat exchanger (last brewing session) and when I put the pump near the kettle (5 cm.) it work perfectly so....

Maybe in the futur I will use the same pump and change it's place.... Near the boilling kettle and near the tampon one...

I will try this next time I brew...

There are more than a few factors involved that can affect the pump performance or non-performance, and as I said previously, often it's a combination of factors at the same time which can make it hard to figure out.

Yes, a shorter hose on the suction side to the boil kettle should help considerably. The suction side is much more critical than the output side of the pump. It helps to have the source (boil kettle) raised above the pump which will create a net positive suction head. This will be a big help in reducing cavitation problems. The picture shows that you do have the kettle above the pump, but somewhat higher would be better still. The easiest thing to try would be to shorten the suction hose and move the pump near the kettle as you mentioned worked for you previously.

the kettle above the pump is the tampon the one that we just see a little part is the boilling kettle.... But as I said the tampon is ok (event its not as high as this) and it the boilling th problem whose at lease 1 ft high....

What size hose are you using? The hose and all fittings should have an I.D. of at least 1/2". The most obvious restriction points would be the tee's and hose end connectors.

It exactly that.... 1/2 tubing and the Tee's and barb adapteur are a little bit smaller to fit with the tubing.....

Ok! so when the boiling is open, it also bleeds some into that Tee also coming from the HLT. Are you closing the valve on the HLT before pumping?

Perhaps a diagram of your hoses might help, even if it's a crappy one.

lesyphon said:

It exactly that.... 1/2 tubing and the Tee's and barb adapteur are a little bit smaller to fit with the tubing.....

Click to expand...

The tee's and barbed fittings create considerable restrictions. These are potential sites for cavitation to occur. The combination of a somewhat longer suction hose and the restrictive fittings could be the source of your problem. Some trial and error with a shorter suction hose and with only end fittings might be enlightening.

Thanks... But as I said I will put the pump just after the boilling kettle and I will buy an other one for the other kettle...