I accidently punched way too big of a hole...

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EarthBound

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
1,063
Reaction score
13
Location
Beer Capital of the World
I'm installing a heating element into my keggle, and I used a 1.25" conduit punch! The hole diameter is 1.6875". I'm not sure exactly what to do to fix this.

I was thinking of JBwelding the SS washer (1.5" ID, 2.25" OD) onto the kettle wall. The problem with that idea is that the washer is flat against the convex kettle wall. Maybe I should TIG weld the washer onto the kettle wall?
 
either get a 1.5" threaded coupling to weld in, which should have an O.D. close to 1.7", and then get a 1.5" to 1" reducing bushing to screw the element into, or you are going to have to weld in a plate and start over.

put the JB weld down and back away.
 
Perhaps you could do some custom pounding onto the washer so it will match the curve of the pot.

Get a bean bag with a piece of leather laid on top of it and a pipe. Put the washer on the bean bag, put the pipe on the washer and then take a hammer and pound on the pipe until the washer bends a bit. Keep testing the curve to see if it matches.
 
Good ideas, guys.

I should've mentioned that I'm doing this a la Kal's electric brewery. I've already built the conduit boxes, and one modification I made to them is that I'm adding 240VAC receptacles onto the back of the conduit boxes, where dryer cords will be plugged in to provide power to the elements.

I believe that a welded reducing coupling (1.5" to 1") would obstruct using the conduit boxes.

I think I should TIG weld a section of sheet metal over the hole on the outside of the keggle. I would then punch the correct size hole. Please let me know what you think of this.
 
Tig weld a stainless 1" nut on. Do you have male plugs going to the kettle?
 
Good ideas, guys.

I should've mentioned that I'm doing this a la Kal's electric brewery. I've already built the conduit boxes, and one modification I made to them is that I'm adding 240VAC receptacles onto the back of the conduit boxes, where dryer cords will be plugged in to provide power to the elements.

I believe that a welded reducing coupling (1.5" to 1") would obstruct using the conduit boxes.

I think I should TIG weld a section of sheet metal over the hole on the outside of the keggle. I would then punch the correct size hole. Please let me know what you think of this.

So you are saying you will have "male" ends of 240V exposed? That is EXTREMELY dangerous. You don't want to have male hots sticking out just waiting to shock someone.
 
...
I've already built the conduit boxes, and one modification I made to them is that I'm adding 240VAC receptacles onto the back of the conduit boxes, where dryer cords will be plugged in to provide power to the elements.
That is a very bad idea. You will have 240V openly exposed on the cord plug prongs when it is disconnected.

Edit: Huaco,
You beat me to it.
 
Tig weld a stainless 1" nut on. Do you have male plugs going to the kettle?

That is actually probably a better idea than the sheet metal! There would be a few little gaps to fill, but it's definitely feasible. I think it would still work with my conduit boxes, as well. We may have a winner...

I do not have male plugs. Why do you ask?
 
So you are saying you will have "male" ends of 240V exposed? That is EXTREMELY dangerous. You don't want to have male hots sticking out just waiting to shock someone.

You're right. I was trippin. Thank you.

Here's my new idea: The outlets will have their own weatherproof outlet box (with weatherproof outlet covers) over by the control panel. The dryer cords will be wired to the keggle conduit boxes. Does that sound good?
 
Back to the first dilemma, I suppose the reducing coupling idea would work, too, and not really impede the use of the conduit boxes, but I have to buy the coupling, and I already have the lock nut, so welding the lock nut seems like a better choice. I think that's what I'm gonna go for.
 
That is actually probably a better idea than the sheet metal! There would be a few little gaps to fill, but it's definitely feasible. I think it would still work with my conduit boxes, as well. We may have a winner...

I do not have male plugs. Why do you ask?

'Cause I thought you were planning on building 240v cattle prods, but I had to ask to see if I misunderstood:)

The locknuts I just welded up were 1.735, so I bet you'll be alright with little to no gap.
 
I've plugged holes in keggles before using various sizes of hex head plugs. In your case, just find a 1-11/16" plug (1.6875") and use a silicone o-ring with lock nut on the inside and/or outside of the vessel wall for a nice, watertight seal.
 
Problem solved. Just got home from my buddy's chopper shop. The locknuts have been TIG welded to the outside of the keggles. Yes, I botched two of them. There were no gaps to fill. I said it once, and I'll say it again...

It pays to have skilled friends who like good beer. ;)

Now it's time to work on those outlets...
 
I did the exact same thing for my HLT. Though I am using a 5 gallon cooler. Any sugestions on how to fix that?
 
Back
Top