Hopstopper vs. Domed False Bottom

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Ryan_PA

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Well, until today I had my mind made up that I was going to be getting a hopstopper...then I read a post by Yuri saying the domed false bottoms at more beer are as good. I do not want to question Yuri's point, but further explain what I am looking to accomplish.

I have a shirron plate chiller and I am trying to reduce/eliminate the chance of getting any pellet hops or hot break into it as possible. I am at the point where I am ready to order, actually I meant to order this past weekend, but time became an issue. After pricing out the hardware for the hopstopper, I am coming in at close to $100. Looking at the false bottoms, I would be about $45 cheaper. I do not want to save the money at the cost of performance. Which would be the better choice, or is there a third option I have not even considered yet?

Also, I have been looking for a weldless kettle coupler that will work with the hopstopper. According to the site, the thread size has an option "Thread Size: either 3/8" NPT or 1/2" NPT", but most, if not all of the weldless bulkheads I have seen are not threaded. Am I missing something?
 
My weldless bulkhead fitting is threaded on the inside of the fitting . . . .

OK this doesnt sound right and I cant figure out how to make it sound right . . . .

when my bulkhead fitting is installed the part on the inside of the kettle has threads on the inside of the fitting . . . .

that make sense? are you looking at pictures of the fittings where you wouldnt be able to see the inside of them or are you looking at the fittings themselves and they aren't threaded at all?
 
Pumbaa said:
that make sense? are you looking at pictures of the fittings where you wouldnt be able to see the inside of them or are you looking at the fittings themselves and they aren't threaded at all?

When I look at this fitting:
wf1.jpg


The portion inside the kettle appears to not be threaded. I know this piece has to attach somehow to the coupler, and I imagine it is threaded, but I have never seen one in person, so I am not sure if I can use it to attach to a hopstopper or false bottom...
 
ok yeah, that smooth steel piece on the left side of the fitting (the part that goes inside the kettle) is threaded on the inside. There is actually a nipple that holds that steel piece on the left to the brass valve.

let me look around I know there is an image of one of those things broken down somewhere . . .

**EDIT**
ok here is that fitting minus the valve
kk-bulkhead.jpg

The piece that you see when you look inside a kettle is called a straight conector. It's threaded on the inside. Connected to that is a nipple that passes through the side of the kettle to your valve (with washers and o-rings to prevent leaks)
 
beer4breakfast said:
Even the all stainless version that I am about to order costs less than $100, and the standard version is $60.

No, the $100 is for buying the standard version offered on the site. I was factoring in the hardware and shipping as well since I do not have a bulkhead in my kettle currently.
 
I'm trying to figure out the mesh type used on the hopstopper. This stuff is rated in how many holes there are per inch and looking at Mcmaster, there seems to be a lot to choose from. If you don't mind the dip tube being copper, you can build it for way less than $100.
 
I have heard that other attempts to replicate this design have not gone well...

I have no issue spending the cash, I just want to see if this is the best way to accomplish what I am looking to do...
 
Replicating the hop stopper can't be that difficult. It's two circles of tight mesh sewn together. Of course, it's getting the right size mesh that's likely the difficulty. You want to stop the pellet dust of course but have the most open area possible besides that. Anyone know how many microns a hop pellet particle is?
 
It's not that hard to make a hop stopper as you mention, but trust me on this, it's a HUGE pita to do. I made my own and if I had to do it again I would just go buy one. I just used normal every day metal screen door screen sewn together with steel wire and it works great on whole hops and pellets.
 
orfy said:
I think I have the cheapest hop stoper at 50 cents.

That's what I was using as well Orfy but I've been struggling with it lately and have been contemplating a hop stopper or false bottom. I fought so hard with my rye 2 weeks ago. Big problem is the CFC; I can't get enough flow.

Question, what diameter dip tube does everyone use? I think that may be my problem. I'm using 3/8 copper. Looks like your's is larger orfy?
 
right now mine is only like 3/8ths same size as my CFC but it takes too freeking long. I'm going to deconstruct my CFC and turn it into a immersion chiller then up my dip tube to 1/2
 
15mm >1/2" I'll just take a boiled hop flower if one gets past but it doesn't. I also have the dip tube end 1/4 above the kettle so not much chance of large debris getting in. I had a hop stopper (home made) but it kepped gettin bashed, was a pain to clean and it ripped so I had to make a new one or improvise. It's doing fine.
 
Pumbaa said:
right now mine is only like 3/8ths same size as my CFC but it takes too freeking long. I'm going to deconstruct my CFC and turn it into a immersion chiller then up my dip tube to 1/2

That's what I was going to go to 1/2 before I brew again. Man, just thinking of my last session pisses me off. I reverted to an immersion and siphon. Luckily the tap water is cold out here now.

EDIT - Hey Orfy, do you have a CFC or immersion? I'd assume the flow rate with that 15mm is pretty quick?
 
No I use a immersion chiller. I don't like post brew cleaning!

I actually drop down to a 3/8th tube at my fermenter to aerate (trying to using a venturi effect to pull air in it. Reduced area=increased speed=reduced presure=sucking air in through multiple holes) It seems to work. I get quick starts without using starter.

aerate.JPG


fillingcarboy.JPG
 
Ive been debating on picking up a hopstopper for a while now. im using a bazooka tube, which works very well keeping hops out of the fermentors. But.....I loose about a 1/2 gallon every time becasue the siphon tube doesn't do to well
 
Chimone said:
Ive been debating on picking up a hopstopper for a while now. im using a bazooka tube, which works very well keeping hops out of the fermentors. But.....I loose about a 1/2 gallon every time becasue the siphon tube doesn't do to well

One thing I made the mistake of when I first put a syphon tube in was forgetting that I need a decent hight difference on the outlet. I increased it and a poor syphon started to work properly.
 
Chimone said:
Ive been debating on picking up a hopstopper for a while now. im using a bazooka tube, which works very well keeping hops out of the fermentors. But.....I loose about a 1/2 gallon every time becasue the siphon tube doesn't do to well

Good to know - I'm looking at making the move to a keggle soon and was thinking bazooka because of the cost, but a 1/2 gallon a batch makes a big difference
 
rdwj said:
Good to know - I'm looking at making the move to a keggle soon and was thinking bazooka because of the cost, but a 1/2 gallon a batch makes a big difference

Can the syphon tube not be modded or dropped

This is one of the versions I tried previously.

3+-+Change+to+get+filter.JPG
 
orfy said:
Can the syphon tube not be modded or dropped

This is one of the versions I tried previously.

I don't know - I don't have my keggle yet. Actually, I haven't even officially purchased it - just have the go-ahead from SWMBO

:ban:
 
rdwj said:
I don't know - I don't have my keggle yet. Actually, I haven't even officially purchased it - just have the go-ahead from SWMBO

:ban:


did you actually get the go ahead for a ready made one? or the go ahead for a DIYer?
 
Chimone said:
did you actually get the go ahead for a ready made one? or the go ahead for a DIYer?

There was a nice one on ebay with 2 1/2 inch ports welded in already. He started the auction at 105. Nobody bid on it until this morning. I tried to snag it in the last 30 seconds, but unfortunately I came up short :(

Oh well, the same guy seems to have others, so I'll keep an eye on his auctions
 
rdwj said:
There was a nice one on ebay with 2 1/2 inch ports welded in already. He started the auction at 105. Nobody bid on it until this morning. I tried to snag it in the last 30 seconds, but unfortunately I came up short :(

Oh well, the same guy seems to have others, so I'll keep an eye on his auctions

rdwj - PM pedalbiker if you're interested in one of his keggles.
 
I thought of getting a hopper stopper at one time and wrestled around with different solutions but finally went with the simple one that is less work.

I set my recipes to brew an extra half gallon. I whorlpool and leave the last half gallon in the kettle. No muss, no fuss. Cost is spread out so far that it matters not.

Edit: And nothing extra to clean - worth every penny of the extra grain cost!
 
The reason why the hopstopper works so well is that it has a very tight mesh (small enough holes to stop pellet hop particles) but also a huge surface area to cope with minor clogs. In addition to that, it uses a dip tube that comes really close to the kettle bottom to get that last drop of wort. Any attempts to replicate the function has to have all those features. The Bazooka appears to have a larger mesh (bigger holes) and I suspect it doesn't allow the dip tube to get close enough to the bottom of the kettle. I have a design in mind that should work as well as the hop stopper, but be much easier to make (and cheaper). Of course, I do plan to use copper and stainless so the all-stainless purists will have to pass on the design or modify it.
 
aekdbbop said:
how does the bazooka screen hold up? can it deal with pellets?

According to the research I have done, they hold up to a point, but smaller hop particles do get through.

I am okay with hops in the primary, I am not okay with creating a possible infection in my chiller
 
trinitone said:
Better hop utilization.

with all due respect that's bs when it coms to real world tongue analysis

our club has basically tested this on a weekly brewing schedule. most of the hard core members use the hop bag.

you say better hop utilization - i say prove it. we have - we can't tell the diff.

if there ever were a bunch of hop heads dude - let me intoduce you to the USB

i think second place in the Carolina Brewer of the Year circuit is proof positive tha hop bags work
 
roggae said:
would it work to just bind a hopbag to a copper pipe connected to a 1/2" male fitting?

would this work?

That may work if you find a way to suspend out the hop bag. Otherwise it would clog almost instantly. You need surface area...that is the key.

FWIW, I am going with the hopstopper. I know it works. I have over 2 pounds of pellets in my freezer. I plan on switching over to leaf hops starting now, but I still would like the insurance this product has proven. Besides, the email support he has given me, more than earned him the sale.
 
Thats an interesting little number you got there brewhead. DIY? What's the mesh material and how does it fare in the boil? (need to replace every <n> times?)
 
well yes it's totally diy

i use all thread rod as you can see to suspend the pvc coupling above the boil. the hop bag as it were is either a hop bag from your local hbs or a paint strainer from home depot. either works as they are basically the same construction and same consistancy.

in the boil it fares well - with both pellet and whole hops

i toss my hop bags in the washing machine after every use without detergent and i have yet to change them in a years time

the hop bag is held onto the pvc coupling with a pipe clamp

yes i know there are those that would counter with hop utilization - but in all seriousness - i nor any of my fellow hop heads can tell the diff - and we brew some VERY hoppy beers. if you are concerned - drop two more pellets in the bag and be done with it

i don't want to sound harsh to those who are more mathmatically inclined and calculate alpha acid utilization ratios - but seriously - i cannot tell a dff
 

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