Problem:
Wort stopping at 1.020 to 1.028
Background:
Last Saturday I went to a group brew at the University (a red). Before I showed up there was an apparent thermometer calibration issue which led to an initial mash in at around 180. When the error was caught temperature was lowered via ice and additional pale malt was added to attempt to make up for destroyed enzymes. I have not yet checked the SG on my carboy of beer but reports are coming in of worts stopping at 1.020-1.028. OG was 1.057. Wort did pass iodine test but all that means is that starch was converted to sugars - apparently higher sugars than most yeast is prepared to handle.
Question:
Assuming that I don't care for the beer as is (it's hazy as all get up but I'm only concerned about taste), how would you recommend decreasing the FG?
Proposed solutions and discussion of each:
There are three potential solutions that I'm aware of: enzymes, sugar and wine yeast.
Wort stopping at 1.020 to 1.028
Background:
Last Saturday I went to a group brew at the University (a red). Before I showed up there was an apparent thermometer calibration issue which led to an initial mash in at around 180. When the error was caught temperature was lowered via ice and additional pale malt was added to attempt to make up for destroyed enzymes. I have not yet checked the SG on my carboy of beer but reports are coming in of worts stopping at 1.020-1.028. OG was 1.057. Wort did pass iodine test but all that means is that starch was converted to sugars - apparently higher sugars than most yeast is prepared to handle.
Question:
Assuming that I don't care for the beer as is (it's hazy as all get up but I'm only concerned about taste), how would you recommend decreasing the FG?
Proposed solutions and discussion of each:
There are three potential solutions that I'm aware of: enzymes, sugar and wine yeast.
Enzymes:
My understanding of enzymes (Alpha galactosidase or beano - amyloglucosidase) is that either one requires pasteurization to denature the enzyme - something I'd rather not do.
Sugar:
My understanding is that adding sugar would dry the beer out - but at what quantity should I add it if I do? I believe the FG would remain roughly the same but alchohol would be boosted, changing the perceived balance of the beer.
Yeast:
As I understand it wine/ champagne yeasts are more prepared to eat higher sugars than your average beer yeast is. Would this be a feasible solution?
Original e-mail from brewmaster suggesting solutions.My understanding of enzymes (Alpha galactosidase or beano - amyloglucosidase) is that either one requires pasteurization to denature the enzyme - something I'd rather not do.
Sugar:
My understanding is that adding sugar would dry the beer out - but at what quantity should I add it if I do? I believe the FG would remain roughly the same but alchohol would be boosted, changing the perceived balance of the beer.
Yeast:
As I understand it wine/ champagne yeasts are more prepared to eat higher sugars than your average beer yeast is. Would this be a feasible solution?
Hey all who came to the brew last week,
I hope every one had a good time brewing and hanging out in the pilot plant.
And I hope every one signs up for a future brew.
Now I have notice with some people that the wort had stop fermenting
around 5 to 7 degrees P or 1.020 to 1.028 SG roughly. Our starting
gravity was 14.3 P. Around 1.057 SG. If you wish decrease your gravity
and raise your alcohol content of the beer there are 2 ways I can
think of to do it. One is buying room temperature stable enzymes from
online to break down the complex sugars into simple sugars that the
yeast can processes. Or you could add 4 crushed tablets of Beano found
out your local pharmacy. I Have never done this before my self but I
have been told by the guys at out local brew supply store that it will
help lower the final gravity and raise the alcohol content.
After you add your enzymes you could pitch your yeast to help get your
fermentation going again.
Cheers,
Caution
Homebrewers who add Beano to their beer fermentation should expect to
see slightly lower final gravity readings than they are used to for a
given recipe, so should wait until they get two identical hydrometer
readings at 24 hours apart before deciding that the fermentation has
finished. Not doing so may increase the risk of exploding beer bottles.