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I am the one that started the thread on the Norwegian forum. I own the 50L braumeister and i am extremely happy with it. I like being able to brew inside without using gas. The unit i also very compact. The reason that i bought it was that my wife thought i used to much time brewing. I still use the same amount of time, and i brew a lot more than i used to with the brewey i previously had. But with the Braumeister i can start the machine and leave it alone while playing with the kids, ps3, wife etc etc :D
It beeps when it wants me to do something like removing the maltpipe or adding hops. Also controlling temperature is a breeze. You simply program the different steps you want and the Braumeister takes care of the rest.

I have more info in my blog(Norwegian) regarding the Braumeister

www.ringnesherre.blogspot.com
 
Fei, how is your braumeister holding up? With the 50L version, is there a need to add water like the 20L version to reach final post boil volume? Also, can you make a 5 gallon batch in the 50L unit?

Thanks.
 
I am very content with it. You have to add water in the 50l version also. If you don't you get about 65% efficiency. If you add 2 gal of water while the maltpipe is in drain position you get about 75%. If you stir the mash a couple of times during the mashing prosses you gain another 5-10%. i' m like the idea of a "hands off" brewing session so i add water but i don't bother with stiring. You can make a 5gal batch but the malpipe has to have at least 8-9kg of malt in it so the beer will be strong. You could buy a smaller maltpipe for the 50l. I did but have only used it once..
http://www.bryggeri.net/viewtopic.php?t=1961&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=135

--
www.ringnesherre.blogspot.com
 
Why would you have to stir, since from what I have seen the recirculation is pumped up from the bottom? Is not the mash constantly agitated via this? I was thinking that was one of the major benefits from this setup.
 
By stirring you force the wort to find alternative routes through the mash. The mash is not constantly agitated because the pumps are not that powerful unless If you use a small malt bill. Then the wort flows over the maltpipe and stiring is unnecessarily, but if you max out the capacity and use 12-13kg of malt the pumps barely manage to pump the wort over the maltpipe.
 
I've watched the videos and looked at pictures, but it is difficult to see how the pump works. Is there a gasket around the bottom of the maltpipe, so that the pump's output is on the inside and the inlet is on the outside?

It seems that you could adjust the maltpipe for different grain bills by placing some stainless tube over the threaded rod and then tightening the wingnut.
 
fei said:
I am very content with it. You have to add water in the 50l version also. If you don't you get about 65% efficiency. If you add 2 gal of water while the maltpipe is in drain position you get about 75%. If you stir the mash a couple of times during the mashing prosses you gain another 5-10%. i' m like the idea of a "hands off" brewing session so i add water but i don't bother with stiring. You can make a 5gal batch but the malpipe has to have at least 8-9kg of malt in it so the beer will be strong. You could buy a smaller maltpipe for the 50l. I did but have only used it once..
http://www.bryggeri.net/viewtopic.php?t=1961&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=135

--
www.ringnesherre.blogspot.com
Click to expand...

Does it tell you this in the operating manual or did you have to figure out how to fine tune the process on your own? Do they have english language manuals?
 
Bit of a necropost but glad you did Scott. That braumeister is flugan awsome. Figures I'd find out about it right after I spent 1800 dollars on my build. Cool of fei to sign up to chime in on the system, his responses were very informative.
 
Yambor44 said:
Here was the email I got back yesterday:

Hello Robert,



thank you very much for you enquiry and your interest in our Braumeister.



We like to offer you:

Braumeister 20 ltr Art. 47070

Stainless steel cooler Art. 72899

Cleaning Set Art. 78027

Including shipping costs door to door

Without VAT



Summery: 2.090,- US$
Click to expand...

Did you end up buying one? Did anyone in the states end up buying one? If so, please give any feedback you have on it.

This concept is beautiful and looks to be much easier to clean up and manage. I'm trying to come up with more reasons not to get one over a 3 vessel RIMS system. Help me out if you can think of other reasons beyond the sparging issue that was brought up.
 
patrck17 said:
Nice got any pics? I'd like to see it...
Click to expand...

Sorry it's so dark, but the best one I have at the moment.
2870401020103702246amDoEl_fs.jpg
 
Also, here is a vid I did with it -

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/user/yambor44?feature=mhum#p/u/9/NaqX3IqHt3I"]http://www.youtube.com/user/yambor44?feature=mhum#p/u/9/NaqX3IqHt3I[/ame]
 
goybar said:
In the videos I noticed that the beers were cloudy.

Is that due to the process?
Click to expand...

There are many reasons why beer ends up cloudy, and some beer styles are supposed to be cloudy. Most major and micro breweries filter their beer for various reasons, one being clarity. In homebrewing filtering is less common, however it is still possible to have very clear unfiltered homebrewed beer. This varies based on the beer style, ingredients, conditioning time, etc. It seems to be a matter of personal preference in homebrewing, some people make no attempt to clerify their beer while others go through a bit of effort all the way up to expensive filtering systems. I like my beer to be clear so I usually throw in irish moss and use gelatin. The beer usually ends up clear, but not always.
 
goybar said:
In the videos I noticed that the beers were cloudy.

Is that due to the process?
Click to expand...

Which ones?? Mine were all clear in those videos. Condensation on the glass from the 100% humidity here. Although mine usually take till near the bottom of the keg to get crystal clear. I am going to begin using IM and gelatin.
 
Also, Fei....In your opinion, can I get 5 gallons of finished product without adding any water with the 20 L version?

edit: Just saw this on their site so it looks as the answer would be "yes".

Contents:

Brewing quantity 20 l
Finished beer (standard beer)
=approx. 25 l beer wort
 
My dream is at electricbrewery.com
Modeling my set up from this, with 19.8 gal tanks instead. Once tanks arrive, electronic components to make control box, and heating elements, I'll be busy for a month.
 
cbraun77s said:
My dream is at electricbrewery.com
Modeling my set up from this, with 19.8 gal tanks instead. Once tanks arrive, electronic components to make control box, and heating elements, I'll be busy for a month.
Click to expand...

I agree. I would love to replicate this if I had the time to do it. I guess if all of the parts could be ordered in a kit, I would be more inclined to attempt the build. Please create your own build thread when you begin. I would like to follow it.
 
ocluke said:
Also on their site is a link to their sales partners in various countries. In the U.S. it is http://www.morebeer4u.com/
Click to expand...

I inquired to the company oversees, informed them that I'm aware of their East Coast rep (morebeer4u), and wanted to know if they planned on expanding to any larger distributors or West Coast chains. Below is the reply I received from the Distribution Group Leader at the company:

I’m sorry for the delay.
Thank you for your interest in our Braumeister.
Indeed it’s a very simple patented system.

Yes we have actuel a dealer for our machines at the East Cost.
Actually we are also on train to make a cooperation with More Beer
http://morebeer.com.

So that we could also offer our microbreweries at the West Coast.

It looks like MoreBeer will soon be selling the product.
 
I couldn't resist anymore and ended up buying a Braumeister (20l version) a while ago.

So far I'm loving it!

The main limitation is the amount of malt you can put into it. 6kg (13lbs) is maximum. Any more than that and the grain bed becomes too compact and the pump struggles.

With some sparging you can achieve 80% efficiency.

I typically brew 22 litres of 1.050-1.060 beer, that is super easy.

One example from my last batch:

5kg malt
Mashed in with 23 litres of water in the unit.
When mash was finished I sparged with 8 liters of 78 degree (C) water, (heated in another kettle) and ended up with 26 litres of 1.048 wort pre-boil (plenty room for more). 79.5% efficiency into boiler. Boiled for 90 minutes and ended up with 20.5 liters of 1.060 after loosing some to hops and trub. 78% eff. Should have sparged with 1-2 liters more.

In the German videos they don't sparge. However it's easy to do so, just pour water into the malt-pipe when it's in the "high" position for draining.

Also in the German videos and pictures the beers are cloudy. My beers are just as clear as when I was batch-sparging. The German homebrewers love Hefes and they're very anal about the Reinheitsgebot; no finings. I think that might be an explanation. The Braumeister have become very popular here in Norway and I have not yet seen any complaints about cloudy beers. And nine out of ten buyers are allready all-grain brewers with experience from a variety of setups. If beer quality went down after going to the braumeisters they wouldn't have been this popular!

If you want to use the pump to recirculate the wort while boiling or cooling, don't use whole hops or use a hop-bag. They will effectively clog the pump. Pellet hops no problem, just toss them in.

I bought two accessories; the immersion chiller and the insulating "suit". The chiller is good but not very big. Could probably have made a cheaper and more efficient one myself from some copper tubing but not as compact and clean looking.

The suit helps keep the heat in and a rolling boil with the (only) 2kw element is easily acchieved.

The best thing about the unit is the relaxed brewday. I am brewing a Wit now. Filled the Braumeister with cold water after I came home at six pm, programmed a long and complex mash-schedule, milled grain and mashed in when it beeped at 38 degrees (C) and havent touched it for a while. Now (8:40) it's fifteen minutes left of the mash and time to heat my sparge water. I'm expecting to have my wit fermenting and the kit cleaned and stowed away well before midnight. And during that time I have had plenty of time to do other stuff. Last brewday I went to the pub for a couple of pints of inspiration while the thing performed a five step mash!

The price? WAY to much if cheap beer is important. However brewing has become an important hobby and part of my life and in that context it's not too expensive!

A discussion I found in english from down under:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48664&st=0

Cheers!
 
Excellent review. It seems that for most beers this thing would be a wonderful brew system, but if you are into high gravity beers, it won't cut it. Unless you think a 20L recipe can be scaled down to sub 20L final volume to accommodate the grain/wort ratio of a high gravity beer?
 
You could allways do a no-sparge and do a longer boil to make a small batch of relatively high-gravity beer in the 20 liter.
If high gravity was my thing I would have looked at another system or bought the 50 liter version. That one accomodates 13 kilos of malt I think and would be able to produce a decent amount of high gravity wort with a lower starting volume and/or a no-sparge. But for normal beers 50 liters is too much for me. I enjoy playing with recipes and brewing relatively often, so a batch of 22 liters in the fermenter is enough for each beer. One keg, 2-3 bottles and some loss to trub.
And you could allways add some extract..
 

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