Quick Disconnects

I have 3 keggles with 3 piece valves on them..and should be receiving my stand with 2 march pumps shortly. Which quick disconnects would you recommend? I have seen the ones form bargain fittings and also the clover fittings...I am trying to stick with the stainless theme so any advice would be helpful.

I used the 45 degree quick connects from McMaster for a long time. I just recently went with the camlocks, and haven't looked back. Not one handed, but no biggy. And the flow difference is remarkable.

I went with aluminum ones from proflowdynamics.com. bargainfittings.com wasn't carrying aluminum at the time (and still may not). I did what BobbyM recommended and got some silicon o-rings from oringsandmore.com. All in all i had roughly 8 sets of camlocks and permanent fittings on the plate chiller (4 extra male ends) with new o-rings for less than $50.

If you want to stick with all stainless then there's no doubt that you'll save loads by staying away from the triclovers. Set aside roughly $10 per connection assembly and you're still 1/3 from the price of the tri-clover. I think the o-rings I used to replace the rubber ones (supplied) were $5 for 30 (or something comparable to that).

I don't think you'll be able to justify tri-clovers unless you just want the things based on your personal preference.

Tri-clovers are pricey but have the advantage that they are not male/female specific and can mate any piece of tubing/hardware in any configuration. They're also considered sanitary connections. And they will last forever with only changing the gasket. Their profile is slightly larger than other connectors.

I went with the stainless QDs from MoreBeer. Another pricey option but will also last forever with a little more effort. They can be operated with one hand and are fast but I don't see that as a real need in my set up. They have a small profile and a clean look.

The camlocks also seem to be popular but I don't have any personal experience with them.

Nice link on the proflowdynamics. I have a quick question though: what do you do to those camlocks to connect them to a ball valve? Do you just attach a threaded coupler of the correct diameter?

i used the camlocks. love them so much. got them all from bargainfittings at a great price.

most people use these on the valve side


and then you put these on the hoses

+1 installed those on my rig last weekend. I love them and austin homebrew supply was (is?) having a crazy good sale on them.

My vote would be for the More beer SS ones, very easy one handed click and go.

I use the brass McMaster QD's, never had an issue. If I ever go all stainless, I'll go full baller bling status and use tri clovers.

Tri-clovers

If you consider how long you plan to use your system the extra cost is negligible.

arturo7 said:

Tri-clovers

If you consider how long you plan to use your system the extra cost is negligible.

Click to expand...

and if you consider that my attention span is pretty short, the extra cost can be a bunch of batches of beer ingredients

slakwhere said:

and if you consider that my attention span is pretty short, the extra cost can be a bunch of batches of beer ingredients

Click to expand...

Ya I'll probably go with the camlock's because of the price if i ever wanted to upgrade I'll go with the Tri-Clovers...I saw on Bobby's M's videos a while back he uses a Elbows so the hose wouldn't kink. Anyone else do this on there hose lines? Would I just use an Angle grinder to remove the Thread...

arturo7 said:

Tri-clovers

If you consider how long you plan to use your system the extra cost is negligible.

Click to expand...

Problem is, I tend to change my system every other brew.

GillandCo said:

Ya I'll probably go with the camlock's because of the price if i ever wanted to upgrade I'll go with the Tri-Clovers...I saw on Bobby's M's videos a while back he uses a Elbows so the hose wouldn't kink. Anyone else do this on there hose lines? Would I just use an Angle grinder to remove the Thread...

Click to expand...

always wondered why they did that....

slakwhere said:

i used the camlocks. love them so much. got them all from bargainfittings at a great price.

most people use these on the valve side

and then you put these on the hoses

Click to expand...

Actaully those barbs limit flow. Use these (Type B) with street elbows. Watch BobbyM's video about camlock. here.


Also when ordering from bargainfittings.com, he includes the replacement o-rings at no charge.

i hadn't seen that video, and it looks like Bobby is squeezing out another GPM on the pump vs the barb fitting, but the barbs were so easy to put together and i'm brewing 10 gallon batches not 100 gallon batches, so the extra flow doesn't make me cry.

I already watched this video...I will attempt to shave down the thread like Bobby M.

GillandCo,

Try to use a bench grinder (safer). If you use a regular grinder it might be worth getting a buddy to hold it while you hold the street elbow in some vice-grips. you might lose a digit or three if you slip.

For the guys with the Tricloves. Agreed, they're the best and most diverse connection, if you want to spend the money.. i've got about 85,000 different things i want to do before i get into that.

So i want to go with the Tri clamps/ Clovers from a guy that sells them through this site...Anyone have any suggestions for making the recirculation port for my MT...is there a way to do this right below the top skirt without welding another bulkhead to my vessel. I don't want a ball valve on it, If I have to plug it with a cap while not in use thats perfectly fine. Thanks

I would also be using a pick up tube I have already purchased...I have a compression fitting for recirculating now what? pics would help.

Not to Hijack, but its on the same lines. I've also been contemplating adding some quick disconnects and considering I have a lot of air tools and a big compressor, my first thought drifted to the air/water line quick disconeects I currently use on my air tools sold thru home depot, lowes, etc. They are brass and designed for air and water. They are also fairly inexspensive. Any reason those wouldn't work for brewing purposes?

They would work and im sure very well...they sell the same style brass connects at Mcmaster, but all my equipment is stainless so I don't feel the need to get brass. Also the tri-clovers seem like they would last the longest, even though price is a concern. I hear the brass you can connect and disconnect with one hand and the camlocks require 2...not a big deal but i also heard they take some getting use to...the deal breaker for me was having to shave down 1/2 threads to fit the hose... Im sure 3/8 will or would work but a 1/2" is ideal and I want the fastest flow rate for the Pump. I'll most likely suck it up and go with the clovers. I just have to figure out the recirculation connections first.

Air Couplers will be a big restriction. The McMaster couplers do not stop flow when uncoupled like an Air Coupler does.

Disregard my advice and trust Ron...I thought you were talking about the others and did not read "air" as I was briefly skimming through the post . Thanks for catching that. Sorry for the miss lead!

ok cool. I was just curious and its a thought thats been kicking around the back of my head for a few days. When i saw the thread i figured why not ask.

Again, sorry for the Hijack