50qt Igloo Ice Cube

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go for it! iam looking for one my self because i have a 5G round one and its little to small for a big grain bill plus i wana go to 10g baches.
 
I have one. It makes a great MLT.

Was there insulation in the walls where you drilled? Ill be picking up parts on Monday to start drilling.

Just ordered my first full grain bill, going to make DubbelDach's Orange Honey Heff.
 
Was there insulation in the walls where you drilled?

There's a spot in the bulkhead on one side where they obviously designed for a drain plug/spout, but there isn't one for some reason. That's where you should drill. I don't think there was any insulation there, but it's been long enough that I can't really remember. I certainly didn't run into any problems drilling it or installing my braid and fittings.
 
I just picked up this same cooler last week. It has an angled drain plug on the back where the handle connects. I'm waiting on stainless steel parts from bargainfittings. http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop1.html

If yours doesn't have a plug then there might be insulation to go thru. This one has no insulation around plug. It's just approx 1-2mm thickness at that point.

Update-- I just got home and found its the 60qt icecube cooler with the telescoping handle, not the 50qt one.
 
From what I have read and just feeling the plastic, I don't think there is any insulation in there. I may just put some spray foam in there for good measure. Minimal expanding foam is some dense stuff, I will be able to crank down on the washers better.
 
Weissbier, I've got the exact same cooler - just not at that price. Good find. It's done pretty well for 1 10-gallon and 2 5 gallon batches. I built a cpvc manifold which seems to work great. I'm fine-tuning my efficiency right now, but I don't think the cooler is affecting my lower numbers, more my mash thickness, and possibly the crush.

It does tend to lose some heat over the mash, so expanding foam in the lid would be good. I used a blanket over the top last time and I only lost 2 degrees over an hour. When you build your valve, make sure you include a large washer (stainless) on the inner wall. I don't have one right now, and I get really nervous cranking the handle, as the side flexes with the torque as I do so. Darthbeer is right - there is no insulation in that spot, just a thin plastic wall.
 
Well I got up early this morning and ran to ACE and picked up everything I needed, it went together like it was meant to be there. The indented area where I drilled was two layers of 1/8" thick plastic, nothing between them. A large washer on both sides and there is no problem with flexing. Foaming up the lid and putting the manifold together will be my next project.
 
Damn, paid $19.95 each for two of these at Target a few weeks ago, and I thought that was a deal?? +1 above, the indented area where the bulkhead is installed is just two layers of plastic w/out insulation, makes for an easy installation.
 
Good deal, I got mine for $20. Its not the best most insulated cooler in the world, but its good enough and its a great size and shape. You will do well with it. A couple dozen AG batches in mine and no sign of any issues at all.

I did blow some Great Stuff expanding foam into the lid though. Dont know if it helps much or not, but it was cheap and easy.
 
I gotcha all beat on the price $9.98. I wasn't even looking for one until I read this thread and the OP mentioned one for $13.98. I had to pick up sinus meds so I checked while I was at Target.

I plan on using it in a no sparge set up with the pump I just got from Santa.
 
So, I picked one up yesterday, but I'm thinking of returning it. My current MLT holds heat very well, but it's too big, and it's rectangular, so I lose a lot of wort to poor geometry. Anyway, I got this Igloo Ice cube hoping to resolve that issue.

Now I think I'll have temps problems.

So, one poster on this thread says he loses 2 degrees over an hour. Another says it's just fine. Another says it is good enough.

Are there any other opinions out there? I'm getting ready to brew in subfreezing temps, so it would be good to know ASAP before I cut into this cooler and can't return it anymore.

Thanks,
 
Subfreezing temps I would be worried, I will be using mine in a temperature controlled environment. The cooler is obviously sub-par to a Rubbermaid, but for the price I will deal with it...
 
...

Now I think I'll have temps problems.

So, one poster on this thread says he loses 2 degrees over an hour. Another says it's just fine. Another says it is good enough.

Are there any other opinions out there? I'm getting ready to brew in subfreezing temps, so it would be good to know ASAP before I cut into this cooler and can't return it anymore.

Thanks,


Hey all,

I built a MLT out of one of these 50L Ice Cubes earlier this fall and have brewed 5 gal batches of pale ales in it twice so far. There is no insulation where the drain goes on the side, no insulation for an inch of so on the rounded side corners, and no insulation in the lid. That means the only place there is insulation is in the bottom and on the sides. You can easily feel this when mashing (or by fillilng with hot water and closing the lid) by running your hand over the outside of it.

Both times I brewed with it outdoors with temps in the low 40's. I did loose about 2 degrees per hour but definitely not more than that. In my book that's good enough and ceratinly not worth buying a "premium cooler" that costs $50-$150. I'm also sure the heat loss would be less for a bigger batch, like 10 gal, because the cooler only gets about half full with a 5 gal batch.

I want to add some spray foam to the lid to make it hold heat better though. I appreciate hearing experianeces from anyone that's already done it, especially regarding where to drill the holes in the lid and what expansion grade of foam. My initial thoughs are to drill the holes at the top 4 corners on the outside of the cube and use an extension tube inserted half way into the lid to help ensure a complete foam fill.
 
I have the same cooler and I used the spray foam in the cooler lid. Now over a 60 min mash in 35F weather I will only loose 1 degree. Before that I would loose 5-7 degrees over the hour. This for sure is the biggest improvement I have made to the tun.
 
There are two versions of this cooler, one with a drain and one without. If you have the one with the drain, you will see the spot where a bulkhead is meant to go. It allows you to lower the drain to even with the bottom of the cooler, so you don't leave much behind at all.

You should note: you need a KETTLE kit for this cooler, not the cooler kit, if you're using weldlessfittings or bargainfittings or something. There is NO insulation in the area that you'll put the fitting through, so it's just about at thick as a pot, not nearly as thick as a typical cooler.

Most of the heat loss in this cooler is through the top. I put a folded blanket on there and lose 1 degree per hour or less, though I brew inside.
 
For $13.95 each, buy a pair...:mug:


HPIM5467.jpg
 
Nice.. I have one of these to, with the pre drilled holes. No problem with loosing heat, maybe a couple degrees, more durring winter. Just plan to add a couple extra cups hot water last 15 minutes. I want to next fab a nice stainless form fit false bottom for the cube. Just have a braid right now, works, but I think a nice false bottom is better. (If anyone knows someone that makes these already pm me.) Happy mashing!
 
I just saw these today for about the $13.95 price, I'm gonna get one tomorrow.
I plan on filling the lid with spray foam. (one I looked at had flip open compartment on top but I'll fill that with foam too!)
What about the sides? How's the insulation there?
Maybe fill sides with spray foam?
 
I just saw these today for about the $13.95 price, I'm gonna get one tomorrow.
I plan on filling the lid with spray foam. (one I looked at had flip open compartment on top but I'll fill that with foam too!)
What about the sides? How's the insulation there?
Maybe fill sides with spray foam?


Foam to your hearts content...I mash inside and have found that as long as I have the cooler well heated, it works fine.

Add your strike water 10 - 20 degrees hotter than you need and let the cooler sit for 20 minutes, if it is still to hot just stir w/ the lid open to lose a little heat till you are at strike temp.

If you are mashing outside in freezing temps...your on you own:mug:
 
Crap. I was going to go hunting for one of these today at 2 different Targets, but woke up to a winter wonderland and accidents all over the roads.
 
I have the same cooler, I filled the lid with spray foam the day I got it. This past sunday morning it was 29 degrees out, I mashed for 90 minutes outside and dropped 1 degree.
 
I just saw these today for about the $13.95 price, I'm gonna get one tomorrow.
I plan on filling the lid with spray foam. (one I looked at had flip open compartment on top but I'll fill that with foam too!)
What about the sides? How's the insulation there?
Maybe fill sides with spray foam?

From what I can see there's insulation in the sides. However, the corner of the sides where it says "IGLOO" has no foam and is just like where the drain bulkhead goes. In those places the inside wall is right up against the outside wall with no gap for foam. There is foam on the bottom corners too I think. Look at the pic several posts back and you'll see what I mean.

Mine has the compartment in the lid too with 2 can holder spots. I use it though, one can holder is for a long thermometer thru a small rubber gromet and the other holds some little stuff like a roll of teflon tape to fix a leak if need be.

I'm going to fill the inside of the top with foam this weekend by drilling holes at the outside top corners of the cube and filling from the center out from each hole.
 
Went hunting for these this morning. First Target had none left. Second target had 2, so I picked one up. Not ready for AG, just yet, but I may be tempted to start earlier than I had anticipated.
 
I went back to the same Target store to pick up the one I saw for $13.98 the day before.
It was marked down to $9.98.
 
i use this cooler and at one time cared about losing a few degrees, but no longer do. it works great.
 
I bought two of these at BIG LOTS about 6 months ago for when I made the jump to AG. I fit both with valves and the MLT with a copper slotted manifold. They work great. I am in the process of building a "stand" - I intend to have both coolers in a framed in "tower" with a pump and my RIMs setup. I am planning to have it be all self contained with handles and a wheeled base so I can take it out, brew, and put it all back with minimal space and effort needed.
 
Spent the weekend fitting out the Igloo box. Okay, actually it only took up about 1 hour during my daughter's naptime. I'm not the most "handy" person, but I got it all hooked up with no leaks, and I used a CPVC manifold.

I'm going to end up putting spray foam in the lid, since I did a quick test with water and it seemed to lose a good bit of temperature over 60-minutes in my basement (around 58F this time of year). Of course, I'm also not a thermodynamics expert, but 3 gallons of 103F water lost 6 degrees over an hour, so I don't know how that translates to water+grain at 150F or so over an hour.

Can't wait to actually put it into full usage, but we're due for our second child in about 3-4 weeks, so brewing won't happen until after that. I'd hate to have to choose between finishing my mash or rushing SWMBO to the hospital. :D
 
LOL, I would too. I just picked one up as well. If anyone is in the Waterford, CT area, they have 3 left. What a steal!
 
Also, where in the area for spigot did you all position your bulkhead? I have not really looked at it well yet, but just wondering if you remembered. Thanks!
 
Look inside the cooler, you will see an indentation in the bottom. That is the wall you want to drill. It is 2 layers at 1/8" thick plastic. Piece of cake.
 
Thank you very much! I will take a look after work then. Didn't see anything on the outside but glad there is something on the inside. :)
 
Yeah, I actually put my bulkhead level with the bottom of the cooler, rather than down in the indentation so I didn't have to use an extra piece of CPVC for the angle. I don't think it will mean I lose a lot of liquid in the long run.

Actually, from the outside, you can see a flattened area on the side of the right side of the cooler (if looking from the front), and that is where the spigot would normally go.
 
Yeah, I actually put my bulkhead level with the bottom of the cooler, rather than down in the indentation so I didn't have to use an extra piece of CPVC for the angle. I don't think it will mean I lose a lot of liquid in the long run.

Actually, from the outside, you can see a flattened area on the side of the right side of the cooler (if looking from the front), and that is where the spigot would normally go.

Yea, the flattened area was quite large, so I wasn't sure where to put the bulkhead in that. Thanks for the info too. I will have to make a decision when I get home I guess. Prob should wait until I get the fitting as well. :)
 
I use one of these as well, the all white "marine" version that I got for $15.95 with a coupon. For 10 gallons of the Belgian Golden Strong I went with a relativly thick 1.1 qt/lb and had it filled within 1/2 inch of the lip of the cooler. I kind of wish I had gotten a bigger one... ;) Really though, I think the 50qt is great for almost every beer that I will brew except the occasional super high gravity ones.
 
I actually positioned a washer on the inside wall of the cooler, centered in the indent. Marked the center with a sharpie and drilled a small pilot hole. I centered a washer on the outside pilot hole and made sure everything fit, that gave me a little wiggle space if needed.
 
Weezknight I’d be curious what your temps would be if you preheated with some near boiling water for around 10 minutes and then did your test on temp drops. My guess is it might be a lot better. Also with grain in there you might hold temps better.

I put mine together over the weekend. The hole for the spigot is about an inch from the bottom of the indent. It makes the exit drain pretty much level with the bottom of the rest of it. I’m using a false bottom with BIAB method. I had the false bottom sort of cobbled together from a keggle. It’s not the greatest but with the bag it should work great. I just wanted to keep the grain off the bottom and not use a manifold.

I used a ¼” ball valve with a ¼” NPT to ½” barb. I have ½” on everything else, but the 1/4” ball valve/bulkhead set up was cheaper. I do gravity drain to kettle once mash is complete.

I leak checked mine but haven’t done any temp check to see how much I lose. I’m not too worried as I’ll be able to recirculate via boil kettle and march pump if needed. I plan on doing Full Volume No Sparge Mashes with it.
 
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