how long do you let your ales frement for?

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So im on my first brew ( Canadian Ale) and the directions said that after 4 days of frementing you add the suger and bottle it. Than let it sit for a week in a cool dark place and than put in a fridge for 3 weeks.

A few budddies of mine that used to brew a few years ago said they let it sit in there frementer for 3 weeks and than bottled it and added the suger.

Which way is the best way?

I did not take the hydrometer reading because the dumb directions said to do it before botteling which i now know is incorrect so i am not realy trusting there directions.

Any tips would be apreciated :mug:
 
So im on my first brew ( Canadian Ale) and the directions said that after 4 days of frementing you add the suger and bottle it. Than let it sit for a week in a cool dark place and than put in a fridge for 3 weeks.

A few budddies of mine that used to brew a few years ago said they let it sit in there frementer for 3 weeks and than bottled it and added the suger.

Which way is the best way?

I did not take the hydrometer reading because the dumb directions said to do it before botteling which i now know is incorrect so i am not realy trusting there directions.

Any tips would be apreciated :mug:

I'm just tasting my first batch(WCPA) after 7 days fermenting, 7 days warm conditioning, and two in the fridge.

It was good, but like everyone is saying... Let it go double that, or more.
 
You take hydrometer readings after cooling your wort, and when you want to see if the bulk of fermentation is complete (instructions not so dumb). Depending on how patient you are (or impatient) you could bottle it now if you are really in a rush to drink your beer. However, most beers will benefit from more time in the primary fermenter. The reason is that the yeast produces many many chemicals that can produce off flavors when it is eating up all the malt sugars. After they eat all the sugars they turn their attention to their own crap and clean those out. This is why many people choose to leave their beers in primary for atleast 2 weeks.
 
I usually let mine sit in the primary for 2 weeks minimum before taking gravity readings. If you have the same gravity reading 3 days apart you know your fermentation is done. Letting it sit 2-4 weeks is probably best. It can only help clean up any off-flavors that may be present & will give your beer more clarity. Patience is a virtue!

BOTTOM LINE - You don't want to start bottling before you know for sure fermentation is complete. Otherwise, you're at risk for exploding bottles if any yeast left suspended in the beer continues to ferment sugars without any means of releasing CO2.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk
 
I'm new at this also, getting ready to brew batch #4. Bottled my first batch after 15 days. It turned out good but i wish i had waited another 2 weeks. My #2 batch was in primary for 32 days and has been in secondary for 8 and will bottle in 2 more days. I know It's ready and it's really clear! From my experience i would wait another 2 or 3 weeks, but thats just me.
 
We need to clarify what you are asking. Are you asking how long a beer takes to complete fermenting or how long you want to leave the beer in primary? There is a distinction.

You let it ferment until it is done....it's not something you control. You let your beer ferment as long as it takes to finish. That's not something you control, a beer takes as long as it needs, it could be days or a week or more. That's not the same as leaving a beer in primary, or racking to secondary (which you should do AFTER fermentation is complete as well). But the yeast have a job to do and you need to let them do it, and they follow any calendars.

You determine when a beer is finished by taking two consequtive grav reading over a 3 day period.

How long you choose to condition the beer whether it is opting for a long primary or secondarying is one thing...But how long you let a beer ferment is a process of the yeast not you...just like bottle carbing, you can't control that either. The yeast are in charge, not us.....

I leave all my beers in primary for a month then bottle.
 
As usual, Revvy and others have laid it out pretty well.

I would add: I don't think I'd trust directions from that manufacturer again. And patience truly is a virtue. After reading post after post here about longer primaries, conditioning, etc. and then experimenting myself, I will join the chorus that says patience!

As a rule, with an average ale, I don't even think about bottling until at least 3 weeks in primary. Why bother? The beer will be in bottles, but it won't be ready any sooner. In fact, many argue it will take even longer as conditioning is slower in bottles.

Yes, it's really really hard to wait. You must wait for fermenting to be complete of course, but if you rush the rest of the process you'll end up with greener, cloudier beer that will only be okay and will probably contribute to some serious gastro-intestinal fireworks and have you giggling to yourself as you search "farting" on these forums. (Not that I would know!)

Anyway, good luck and welcome to the hobby!
 
4 days is too short.

Leave it in for two to three weeks. Bottle, leave it in bottles for two to three weeks. chill and drink.

Is this the best way? Maybe maybe not. Is it a good way to do things until you get some more experience, understand what your yeast need and want, understand gravity readings and what they mean, and develop a feel for brewing? Yes.
 
I'm only 20-25 batches into my brewing career and the biggest improvements I've made are temp control and patience.

Like others have said, wait 3 weeks until you check gravity. Those first few batches are hard to wait on, but once you start to get into a groove you won't even want to look at the fermentor for a couple weeks (well, maybe just check to make sure the airlock isn't gunked up).

I actually planned ahead this year and brewed twice right before leaving for x-mas vacation, so I could bottle when I got back. :ban:
 
I'm going to pick up on what Revvy was saying as well... One thing you haven't mentioned is wether or not you're doing only one fermentation, or if you'll be transfering to a secondary as well.

Though you don't technically need to transfer to a secondary to make beer, your brew will benefit immensely if you siphon it into a second container to ferment, making sure not to include the trub that collects at the bottom. This not only improves clarity, but will generally get rid of a number of flavors that taste like dirt and badness.

In my experience, you'll need to wait about 2 WEEKS for primary fermentation. Of course, that's just a ballpark and the best way to make sure this stage is done is to make sure you get two gravity readings three days apart that are the same. Then transfer to secondary for another 2 WEEKS. After that, you can prime and bottle and wait another 10 DAYS.

Some beers take much longer, mind you. If you want to make a gueuze, for example, you're looking at YEARS! But for what you're doing, a month and a half would seem to be okay.
 
IMHO it depends if you are in a rush for beer or if you are more patient. When I started, I brewed two weekends in a row. One I kegged after only 10 days. The other I let go 3-4 weeks before kegging (because I already had beer and patience was no longer a factor).

They were both great beers. I just had beer faster. It started out tasting a little 'green' but it got better with time.

Once the majority of fermentation is complete (7-10 days minimum and all krausen has subsided - dont shoot me thats just what I look for personally), your flavors will continue to improve.

Generally speaking the yeast work FASTER to continue to improve the flavor if they are in the preferred temperature range for the yeast (usually 62-65degf). That is why you bottle condition warm (among other reasons) and leaving it in primary longer does the same thing. Once you cool it down (30-40degF) the yeast work much slower to change the flavors.
 
Though you don't technically need to transfer to a secondary to make beer, your brew will benefit immensely if you siphon it into a second container to ferment, making sure not to include the trub that collects at the bottom. This not only improves clarity, but will generally get rid of a number of flavors that taste like dirt and badness.
.

Actually you will find that many many many of us believe exactly the opposite, that prolonged yeast contact IN PRIMARY makes for better tasting beer, because rather than the yeast beging the cause of off flavors, prolonged yeast contact actually ALLOWS the yeast to clean up after itself. And it does it more efficiently in primary.

The idea that yeast/trub leads to off flavors is oldschool thinking that has been disproved over the last 5 years or so.

Even the person most responsible for perpetuating that old idea (John Palmer) has admitted HE was operating under one of those "common beliefs" that we all used to believe hands down.

Most of us realize now, that fermenting the beer is just a part of what the yeast do. If you leave the beer alone, they will go back and clean up the byproducts of fermentation that often lead to off flavors. That's why many brewers skip secondary and leave our beers alone in primary for a month. It leaves plenty of time for the yeast to ferment, clean up after themselves and then fall out, leveing our beers crystal clear, with a tight yeast cake.

Diacetyl is one of those things cleaned up simply by long yeast in primary contact. You can read that info here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/pr...d-butter-please-70438/index2.html#post1080693

Maturation of beer flavour requires the presence of yeast as a catalyst. There are many methods of finishing that have the sole objective of prolonging the contact of beer with yeast after primary fermentation is completed....

Method 1
If a very cold primary fermentation was used it involves allowing the beer temperature to rise from the controlled primary fermentation temperature of about 10°C to 15-18°C when the primary fermentation is coming to an end. Normally, the time is determined by the attenuation of the beer. If, for example the wort starting gravity was 1050 and the expected terminal gravity is 1010, then the diacetyl rest would be commenced when the beer has attenuated to about SG 1023 when two-thirds of the total fermentable material in the wort has been consumed. The diacetyl rest normally lasts for 48-72 hours, until primary fermentation is over and secondary fermentation is under way. At this time the temperature is lowered when the more traditional method is followed, probably 1°C per day until the lagering temperature of 0-1°C is reached.

Method 2
If a warmer primary fermentation temperature was used for ale or lager the diacetyl rest involves either lowering the beer temperature 2 or 3°C at the end of primary fermentation or keeping it constant for up to 6 days. In lager yeast strains with low diacetyl production it is common practise nowadays to employ a short diacetyl rest followed by centrifuging to remove excess yeast and then crash cooling to 0°C. When brewing ales, that should have very low diacetyl levels especially German Ales like Alt and Kölsch, the implications are to not use highly flocculent yeast and to allow an extended primary fermentation, albeit at cooler temperatures until sufficiently low diacetyl levels are reached. Yeast that settles in the cone is still removed on a daily basis.



We have multiple threads about this all over the place, like this one https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/ignore-instructions-do-not-bottle-after-5-10-days-78298/

If you leave the beer alone, they will go back and clean up the byproducts of fermentation that often lead to off flavors. That's why many brewers skip secondary and leave our beers alone in primary for a month. It leaves plenty of time for the yeast to ferment, clean up after themselves and then fall out, leveing our beers crystal clear, with a tight yeast cake.

This is the latest recommendation, it is the same one many of us have been giving for several years on here.

John Palmer said:
Tom from Michigan asks:
I have a few questions about secondary fermentations. I've read both pros and cons for 2nd fermentations and it is driving me crazy what to do. One, are they necessary for lower Gravity beers?
Two, what is the dividing line between low gravity and high gravity beers? Is it 1.060 and higher?
Three, I have an American Brown Ale in the primary right now, a SG of 1.058, Should I secondary ferment this or not?
Your advice is appreciated, thanks for all you do!

Allen from New York asks:

John, please talk about why or why not you would NOT use a secondary fermenter (bright tank?) and why or why not a primary only fermentation is a good idea. In other words, give some clarification or reason why primary only is fine, versus the old theory of primary then secondary normal gravity ale fermentations.

Palmer answers:

These are good questions – When and why would you need to use a secondary fermenter? First some background – I used to recommend racking a beer to a secondary fermenter. My recommendation was based on the premise that (20 years ago) larger (higher gravity) beers took longer to ferment completely, and that getting the beer off the yeast reduced the risk of yeast autolysis (ie., meaty or rubbery off-flavors) and it allowed more time for flocculation and clarification, reducing the amount of yeast and trub carryover to the bottle. Twenty years ago, a homebrewed beer typically had better flavor, or perhaps less risk of off-flavors, if it was racked off the trub and clarified before bottling. Today that is not the case.

The risk inherent to any beer transfer, whether it is fermenter-to-fermenter or fermenter-to-bottles, is oxidation and staling. Any oxygen exposure after fermentation will lead to staling, and the more exposure, and the warmer the storage temperature, the faster the beer will go stale.

Racking to a secondary fermenter used to be recommended because staling was simply a fact of life – like death and taxes. But the risk of autolysis was real and worth avoiding – like cholera. In other words, you know you are going to die eventually, but death by cholera is worth avoiding.

But then modern medicine appeared, or in our case, better yeast and better yeast-handling information. Suddenly, death by autolysis is rare for a beer because of two factors: the freshness and health of the yeast being pitched has drastically improved, and proper pitching rates are better understood. The yeast no longer drop dead and burst like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life when fermentation is complete – they are able to hibernate and wait for the next fermentation to come around. The beer has time to clarify in the primary fermenter without generating off-flavors. With autolysis no longer a concern, staling becomes the main problem. The shelf life of a beer can be greatly enhanced by avoiding oxygen exposure and storing the beer cold (after it has had time to carbonate).

Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.

So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.

THIS is where the latest discussion and all your questions answered.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/secondary-not-john-palmer-jamil-zainasheff-weigh-176837/

We basically proved that old theory wrong on here 5 years ago, and now the rest fo the brewing community is catching up. Though a lot of old dogs don't tend to follow the latest news, and perpetuate the old stuff.

The autolysis from prolong yeast contact has fallen by the wayside, in fact yeast contact is now seen as a good thing.

All my beers sit a minimum of 1 month in the primary. And I recently bottled a beer that sat in primary for 5.5 months with no ill effects.....

You'll find that more and more recipes these days do not advocate moving to a secondary at all, but mention primary for a month, which is starting to reflect the shift in brewing culture that has occurred in the last 4 years, MOSTLY because of many of us on here, skipping secondary, opting for longer primaries, and writing about it. Recipes in BYO have begun stating that in their magazine. I remember the "scandal" it caused i the letters to the editor's section a month later, it was just like how it was here when we began discussing it, except a lot more civil than it was here. But after the Byo/Basic brewing experiment, they started reflecting it in their recipes.

Most of us will now say that our beers taste and look better for having left it in primary for a month.
 
Not that I need to chip in after all these guys BUT:

Fermentation will be "complete" after you take the same FG readings 3 days in a row. This will occur in 4-7~ days.

As stated above, leaving the beer in the fermenter after fermentation is complete will allow for the yeast to do some cleaning up. The least amount of time I'd leave it in is 2 weeks. 3-4 or more is even better!
 
Wow you guys are all awesome!

Thank you all for your input it has helped me a real lot. I am a giant noob when it comes to brewing so im sorry my question was not clear.
Yes i did mean how long should it stay in primary. I was actualy unaware that you could transfer it to a secondary because all my knowledge came from the manufacture instructions.

After reading through all of this i will just let it sit in priamary for 2 1/2 to 3 more weeks.

This site is awesome thank you all again
 
Wow you guys are all awesome!

Thank you all for your input it has helped me a real lot. I am a giant noob when it comes to brewing so im sorry my question was not clear.
Yes i did mean how long should it stay in primary. I was actualy unaware that you could transfer it to a secondary because all my knowledge came from the manufacture instructions.

After reading through all of this i will just let it sit in priamary for 2 1/2 to 3 more weeks.

This site is awesome thank you all again

You can learn alot from the guys like Revvy and this forum has an array of guys like him. Welcome to the fire.
 
I know this will rub some the wrong way....

English Bitter, 1.045 or so SG, i'll brew on Saturday and I'll be drinking on the beer engine on Friday. All grain, WLP002.
 
Revvy, I couldn't help but noticing this in your quote:

Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.

Is that saying the conditioning phase is done quickly? I'll note also that White Labs says you can expect to bottle in about 14 days, not 21 or 28 days.

There are really two different arguments. If you ask Palmer if a secondary helps, he'll say no, autolysis is a bugaboo, and the yeast will fall out just as well if you leave it in primary. But if part of the anti-secondary argument is that the yeast isn't doing anything but falling out at that point anyway, then that's an argument against longer primary = better beer.

I am not really up-to-date on the science of it all, but asking 'should I rack to secondary?' is not the same question as 'should I bottle after two weeks?'

Just curious.
 
I currently brew only ales. I have about 20-25 batches to my name in the last year. I bottle.

As of now my moderate gravity beers sit in the primary for min 30 days. Higher gravity beers I move to my bright tank (AKA secondary) just to free up the larger buckets.

Then 3 weeks (70F) minimum in the bottle. OK, I might cheat and try on at a week.

But thats what I do now.
 
Yes, it's really really hard to wait. You must wait for fermenting to be complete of course, but if you rush the rest of the process you'll end up with greener, cloudier beer that will only be okay and will probably contribute to some serious gastro-intestinal fireworks and have you giggling to yourself as you search "farting" on these forums. (Not that I would know!)

Anyway, good luck and welcome to the hobby!

This is so true, my first brew I made a Belgian IPA, sat in the fermentor for 2 weeks before bottling and then I screwed up when bottling by adding my priming sugar to my fermentor instead of the bottle bucket and proceeded to stir the hell out of the beer. This of course got all of the trub off the bottom of the bucket which in the end made it's way into my bottles. After letting the bottles sit for a whole 8 days I drank 6 in one night...I think my colon almost exploded that night.
 
We need to clarify what you are asking. Are you asking how long a beer takes to complete fermenting or how long you want to leave the beer in primary? There is a distinction.

You let it ferment until it is done....it's not something you control. You let your beer ferment as long as it takes to finish. That's not something you control, a beer takes as long as it needs, it could be days or a week or more. That's not the same as leaving a beer in primary, or racking to secondary (which you should do AFTER fermentation is complete as well). But the yeast have a job to do and you need to let them do it, and they follow any calendars.

You determine when a beer is finished by taking two consequtive grav reading over a 3 day period.

How long you choose to condition the beer whether it is opting for a long primary or secondarying is one thing...But how long you let a beer ferment is a process of the yeast not you...just like bottle carbing, you can't control that either. The yeast are in charge, not us.....

I leave all my beers in primary for a month then bottle.

Isn't conditioning a "phase" of fermentation?
 
This is so true, my first brew I made a Belgian IPA, sat in the fermentor for 2 weeks before bottling and then I screwed up when bottling by adding my priming sugar to my fermentor instead of the bottle bucket and proceeded to stir the hell out of the beer. This of course got all of the trub off the bottom of the bucket which in the end made it's way into my bottles. After letting the bottles sit for a whole 8 days I drank 6 in one night...I think my colon almost exploded that night.

WOW!!!! I can only imagine. :cross:
 

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