Newbie needs advice

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machinehead131

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I am getting ready to brew my first batch. I have all the equipment I need but am curious as to which kit I should by for my first batch.

Is there any difference between brewing a wheat beer opposed to an ale?

Also, where should I buy brewing kits?

Is there a large difference between dry yeast and liquid yeast?

Thanks, I will have more questions I am sure as time goes on.
 
-No difference in techniquie for brewing a wheat vs non wheat ale (I'm assuming you are doing extract?)

-AUstin HomeBrew Supply has a HUGE supply of awesome kits. You can probably find somebody who has brewed all of them on this forum for specific reviews.

-For dry vs liquid yeasts, it depends on what style beer you want to make. If you are going wheat or Belgian, I would recommend a liquid. If you are making anything else, I would say go with a reputable dry yeast for your first batch.

Good luck and welcome aboard!
 
Damn, that was quick - it's good to be here.

I have been over in the kegerator forums and have always wanted to homebrew.

I am pumped!

Can I reuse brown beer bottles?
 
I would recommend something simple, there are a bunch of these kits it just all depends on your taste. Plenty of good online places with good proven kits. More Beer, Northern Brewer, Midwest supplies etc.... I would also recommend dry yeast for your first kit to keep the simple factor. Good luck and please report back on how it turned out.
 
You can reuse brown bottles. Just don't us the twist off type. .
There is no turning back now!!!..Have FUN and enjoy!!!!!
Tobrew
 
I like many different beers. I really like IPA's but am the only one that does so I want something that everyone will be able to enjoy.

I was thinking this may be good - Austin Homebrew Supply

I am unsure what else I would need or if I should go for something that is simpler?

Not sure what extract vs. mini mash is as well as DME
 
as long as they are of the pry off variety. I believe they are made thicker than the pry off type, plus the pry offs seal easier
 
I have to agree with Brew-boy on the dry yeast thing. It is easier for a first brew in my opinion, just remember to rehydrate:D and you should be fine!! Good luck and Welcome! Now you have a use for your entire life savings:ban:
 
IMHO I would start off with a darker beer. Much easier to hide any procedural flaws since you are just starting out. Document what you do so that if there are issues you can look back and make changes in the future.
 
I'd start with something straightforward that a lot of people will enjoy, something like a good Amber Ale might be the ticket: Austin Homebrew Supply American Amber

In agreement on this. I just recently finished my first home brew and I used a True Brew Amber kit. I figured I'm going to want to share this with people (because beer should be shared and, really, who doesn't want to brag that they brewed their own beer?), and an amber is a good middle-of-the-road beer.

Good luck to you!
 
I am thinking of getting 2 kits - AHS English Pale Ale

The AHS vender told me that it would be a month in the bottles..

Are there any other kits I can brew that will be ready faster, although I realize time is crucial?
 
I agree with the Amber Ale suggestion. It was my first beer as well. Make sure you understand the difference between a lager and an Ale. Don't get a lager kit unless you have the means to properly ferment it.
 
I definitely agree with ThreeRatBastards. Don't go lager unless you have some means to keep the temperature in the mid to low 50's.

Also, I would stick to a type of beer that you enjoy. If you're too worried about pleasing everyone else you may not branch out your tastes and really get to try some unique things. If you like hoppy IPA style beers, why not brew something along the lines of an IPA or even attempt to get close to an Avalanche Reverend or Maharaja. Those are great beers that can appeal to a lot of people.
 
My first home brew was an IPA, I think the strong hop flavor and armora hid a lot of my mistakes. I think for a first kit I would just try for an ale, and probably dry yeast for easy factor. Other than that, just brew what you like. Part of the beauty of home brewing is you can do whatever you want =)

Welcome!
 
Not sure what extract vs. mini mash is as well as DME

Extract brewing utilizes only malt extract in either dry or liquid form to provide the fermentables for the yeast.

A mini mash involves steeping/mashing a small portion of grains to supplement the fermentables as well as extracting flavor/coloring characteristics from specialty grains.

The next step would be mashing all of your grain (and using NO extract) to produce all of your fermentables.

DME is Dry Malt Extract, although I think there is a more technical term
 
I like many different beers. I really like IPA's but am the only one that does so I want something that everyone will be able to enjoy.

I was thinking this may be good - Austin Homebrew Supply

I am unsure what else I would need or if I should go for something that is simpler?

Not sure what extract vs. mini mash is as well as DME

do what ever youd like,but I would recommend extract with specialty/steeping grains for your first brew.. mini mash is half extract and half mashing the grains(extracting the sugars).DME is dry malt extract.Good luck and welcome to the hobby/addiction!
 
Can I do a full 5 gallon boil on a gas stovetop and not need a wort chiller? Will it take too long to cool without a wort chiller?
 
What size pot do you have? I can't take credit, but someone on here said they freeze water bottles and then on brew day, sanitize them and drop them in the wort to chill it. In addition if you could spin the brew kettle in the ice water bath (without aggitating the wort too much), this would speed chill time also.

You need a quick chill to form the cold break. Even an ice bath with 3 gal is going to have a hard time chilling fast enough. Are there any other concerns with chiling quickly? The only othre reason I can think of is to go ahead and pitch yeast quickly to ward off infection, but those who know about "no-chill"
brewing can answer to that concern.
 
Also, will any of these chemicals significantly alter the taste of the beer -chlorine, fluoride, and aluminum sulfate?
 
Howdy, hope ya dont mind another quick newbies question. Ive been hearing from some people that you should get a new yeast pack if you get one form an extract kit. I kinda figure even if a few are alive, once they start multiplying it wont be much of a problem. Any input would be awsome.
 
my wife and i just brewed our first batch. When i was trying to decide what to get i got the advice to pick something similar to what i knew well so i could discern the differences... probably more for clone beers, but anyway, i chose this kit from austin homebrew...
Austin Homebrew Supply
For you texas boys it's supposed to be close to shiner (not their clone). my brother did the shiner clone last month so i thought i'd see what this was like. I used the White Labs liquid yeast and decided to try the yeast fuel (although it was recommended to uncap capsule and pour in powder because the capsule doesn't always completely dissolve). I had no problems, and had a lot of fun. I think i got my wife hooked... she even wants me to build a kegerator! My newbie advice would be to plan out your steps in advance and make sure to have a timer available.... have equipment laid out where you need it. I'm sure whatever you get you'll have fun and enjoy.
 
Hi Machine,

You will probably not be able to get a good rolling boil on a home stove for a full 5 gallon batch. Try it with water and see how it goes, you want a good aggressive boil. Also, try to cover 2 or 3 burners enough to use them, more burners are much better. If you can't get an adequate boil on your stove top do a 3 gallon boil and search for information on "late extract addition" here. It will help you get the same bitterness from the hops as the original recipe. Late extract additions will also make it easier to keep the color right because the wort is less likely to get overly caramelized.

If you already have a propane tank a turkey fryer is an excellent investment. It will properly boil a 5 gallon batch with no trouble.

A 60 minute boil evaporate about 1 gallon depending upon how aggressively you boil and the dimensions of your kettle. Be sure to take that in to consideration when you start the beer. If you start with 5 gallons in the pot you will have to add some makeup water at the end of the boil.

It is a great hobby and I'm sure you'll have lots of fun.



Once you have a decent recipe/kit the 2 most important things you can do to make good beer are proper sanitation and temperature control of your fermentation.

Clean and sanitize EVERYTHING that comes into contact with your wort after it is boiled. You should also minimize the number of things that contact your wort after it drops from boiling temperatures. I think most folks here use StarSan to sanitize and it is an excellent product. I have also used other foodsafe no rinse sanitizers with success, they are available at food service stores, but as long as you're ordering a beer kit tacking on a bottle of starsan is a good idea. For cleaning use either Powdered Brewers Wash (PBW) from the brew shop of OxyClean FREE (get the free, the other stuff has odorizers added that will not play well with beer) both are excellent and will work pretty interchangeably at the beginning homebrewing stage.

For temperature control, use the ice batch etc to cool your wort and then pitch your yeast at, or a little below, recommended fermentation temperature. Once you pitch your yeast put your fermentation vessel in a "swamp cooler"to help maintain proper fermentation temps.

As for kit preference, it is all personal choice. I love American Pale Ales and American IPAs I would try a simple Pale Ale with only 1 or maybe 2 hops. This way you will get good beer AND an opportunity to learn what a specific hops variety tastes like.
 
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