Those that prime bottles

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Terry08

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I thought I might share this. I bottle and just add a measure ofsugar to the bottle but even though the SG is correct I noticed that sometimes when the beer is filled in the bottle, Co2 trapped in solution can cause the beer to foam up. Does not harm anything but it tales longer.

My solution is once the ferment is ready to bottle I check by drawing off a small amount and just sprinkle some sugar in. If it foams up I leave the bottling for a day or two.

I believe that excessive foaming on bottling reduces the final head in the glass.

I am no expert even though I have years of experiance. I adopted a method that works for me and until a few weeks ago when I discovered this forum. I never had any idea how others brewed.

I am always open to improvements and using a secondary for the first time has me inspecting the batch I bottled using this method. It has been a week and I will have difficulty in not trying a bottle. It will be a long month.

It had better be good as I now have another batch in the secondary

Bottled Lager
Secondary Draught
Next Dark Ale

They are what there are no fancy descriptions. An Aussie beer does not need a fancy name, it never lasts long enough to be remembered.
 
If you use software to calculate your amount of priming sugar, it actually takes the CO2 in solution into account - that's why you input the temperature the beer is currently sitting at.
 
Boiling the sugar in water and adding it to the bottling bucket insures more even distribution. I highly recommend it.
 
I use small measure that is supposed to hold the exact amount each time but I agree that there would be an error. I have not noticed however any difference in carbonation and quality from bottle to bottle.

I may think about it. My main aim at the moment is to reduce final sediment in the bottle. So a bottling bucket would need to be at least 25litre capacity and would add an extra stage to the process

My method that I have been using is this with the added secondary stage:

I take a bottle apply label, dip measure in bowl of sugar and dispence in bottle, then fill bottle and cap.

A lot depends on the results of my last batch. I have found that sticking with a consistant method helps a person judge if in fact an improvement was made
 
I may think about it. My main aim at the moment is to reduce final sediment in the bottle. So a bottling bucket would need to be at least 25litre capacity and would add an extra stage to the process

What are you bottling from? If you're bottling from the secondary, racking to a bottling bucket would be a good start to reducing sediment. If all you have is a smaller bucket, rack half, prime, bottle, repeat.
 
pldoolittle I really appreciate your comments. I am now bottling from the secondary and I am seriously considering your advice. I only adopted the secondary method for my last brew and the bottles have only been matured for one week. I am anxious to compare the results. So far it is looking good. It would not be a big deal to get another brew container as it would cost under $20.

I already have another brew in the secondary for one week. The way I am going I will fast be running out of bottles.

Question:

How long could I store beer in a secondary container and would the yeast reactivate in the botte if stored it for some time before bottling. That also raises the question of possible contamination although with a 4.7% alcohol limit I should imagine that would prevent some contamination.



I cannot afford kegs and the Co2 that goes with it but I could store the beer in secondary's and bottle when I have a batch of bottles available.


After some thought by using a bottling bucket the beer that is mixed with the sugar/dextrose solution is no clearer that it is, as it is poured into the bottle, and any sediment from that, must be the result of the yeast feeding on the suger in the bottle during bottle carbination. I do have mixed thoughts about bulk priming as it adds an extra process and another variable.

It does not mean I will not try however as I could use my fermentor as the bottling bucket. I would have to do it for two identical brews to establish the difference. I have adopted the 1 2 3 method.
 
The purpose of the clearing tank is to condition and clear the beer. My opinion is that if you bottle from there (however carefully), you will stir up some sediment. What I do is put the carboy on my kitchen island hours before I rack (if I remember), then rack to the bottling bucket, starting the siphon near the top and lowering until I am just above the yeast cake. This means only clear beer is transferred. The priming solution is boiled while I sanitize the bottles, and adding to the bottling bucket and then the beer racked into this. Then, the bottling is super easy through the spigot and bottling wand in the bottling bucket. I highly recommend this! I don't really think it's an extra step- it's actually reducing 53 steps (adding sugar to each and every bottle).

The beer can stay in the clearing tank ("secondary") a long, long time. I've never done it more than about 4 months, but I bet it could go as long as you needed it to. I can't imagine why this would increase the contamination issue that you mentioned- it's airlocked and "safe" before racking into a sanitized bottling bucket.
 
Hmmm! that certainly makes sense. If what you say works then I could have several secondaries filled and stored each with a different brew awaiting bottling.

Is there much difference between the amount of sediment created in the bottle between using sugar or dextrose solutions?

Thanks for the advice but if I get to good at this brewing I will have to beat my mates off with a stick. A guy can get pretty dry in an Aussie Summer and the price of beer is getting out of the reach of the average Joe for refreshment. I am making beer for under 50c/bottle, cheaper than soft drink.

I guess I do not calculate my time in the equation
 
pldoolittle I really appreciate your comments.

NP. Make sure you pay it back by answering someone else's question later.

I am now bottling from the secondary and I am seriously considering your advice. I only adopted the secondary method for my last brew and the bottles have only been matured for one week. I am anxious to compare the results. So far it is looking good. It would not be a big deal to get another brew container as it would cost under $20.

You don't need to buy another container. Rack into your primary and bottle from there. Or get a food grade bucket. Or use your boil pot. Or DON'T use a secondary and bottle from your primary vessel. What doesn't really matter. The idea is that with all the start, stop, insert cane, bump, wiggle, etc. it's pretty hard to bottle and not disturb the sediment layer. But you can fix a racking cane in place and you will only suck off about a tsp of sediment into the bottling bucket.



How long could I store beer in a secondary container

Search this board. It's a subject of much debate, but the consensus is "a very long time" 2-3 months as a lower limit.

If what you say works then I could have several secondaries filled and stored each with a different brew awaiting bottling.

I would recommend more bottles, particularly since the price of bottles is about the price of a carbuoy. But, you certainly could do it that way. If you go that route, treat the carbuoy like a big bottle of beer. Keep it sealed (air always filled with sanitizer or vodka), keep it in the dark, and keep it chilled (~40*F)

would the yeast reactivate in the botte if stored it for some time before bottling.

Yes, but after many months so many will be dead that priming can be very slow (or fail). Sounds like you're thinking 2-3 secondaries sitting around for 6+months? I would go ahead and bottle it. If you don't, re-infuse yeast before bottling to ensure carbonation. And keep in mind that you're in experimental territory...

That also raises the question of possible contamination although with a 4.7% alcohol limit I should imagine that would prevent some contamination.

If the fermenter is sealed and it's not contamined after 1 month, what's going to contaminate it in month 2-3? And besides carbonation, what's the difference between a sealed carbuoy and a beer bottle? Not much. Do you worry about your bottles beer getting contaminated just because it will a long time before you drink them? Nope...


I cannot afford kegs and the Co2 that goes with it but I could store the beer in secondary's and bottle when I have a batch of bottles available.

Bottles are $12/case. Guinness is $24/case and includes beer. Get some more bottles if it's an issue.

After some thought by using a bottling bucket the beer that is mixed with the sugar/dextrose solution is no clearer that it is, as it is poured into the bottle, and any sediment from that, must be the result of the yeast feeding on the suger in the bottle during bottle carbination. I do have mixed thoughts about bulk priming as it adds an extra process and another variable.

Sediment is not the result of yeast feeding, it IS yeast. It will be there no matter what you do.

With bulk priming, you can sanitize your priming sugar. With bottle priming it is very difficult. With bulk priming, you KNOW you get an even carbonation. With bottle priming, you have to be very careful to get an even prime. Either way, you need to be working from a bottling bucket to reduce sediment, why not pour some sugar into it before you bottle?


It does not mean I will not try however as I could use my fermentor as the bottling bucket. I would have to do it for two identical brews to establish the difference. I have adopted the 1 2 3 method.

Trust me, I think you will that it makes bottling day easier and results in a more consistent product. That's a win-win.

I suppose the more sugar available the more yeast is grown.

This may start a debate, but....

For the most part, yeast reproduce in the presence of oxygen, and "eat" when there is no oxygen remaining. Since your fermented beer has no oxygen, the yeast are mostly eating and doing very little reproduction. This means that the yeast at the bottom of your bottle was all in suspension before you bottled. It just eats some more and "dies" when the food runs our. So while the amount of sugar may affect sediment volume, it is not the primary driver. i.e. the amount of sediment is more determined by the length of time in the bright tank (secondary) than it is by the amount of priming sugars.
 
WOW! that is sure some great information. I have recorded that information. Help other's I would be very pleased if my small knowledge would help others. You guy's make me feel quite humble in this brewing stakes.


I have a racking cane I think if that is the tube with a valve at the bottom. I have to get some tubing and a siphon.

I usually get my bottles when it is recycle day. Some people only buy beer in long necks.

I may get an additional secondary as they are $16 including a tap. I have to fit a grommet for the air lock. My primary has a tropical fish heater fitted in it.

It will soon be warming up and the fermentation process will accelerate. I let nature take its course.

I am working up to 200 bottles stored.
Drinking Munich lager
Maturing Tooheys Lager
Secondary A Generic Draught
Next Tooheys Dark Ale
After Another brand of Generic Draught
The generic types are from Supermarkets and I am still trying to find out what actual breweries they come from. All come out about 4.7% Alcohol

Thanks again to you all
 
My primary has a tropical fish heater fitted in it.

It will soon be warming up and the fermentation process will accelerate. I let nature take its course.l
Not too hot! Assuming you are doing an ale, you still should ferment above 74-76, and that is the high end of the scale. When you get up past that you can create off flavors and "hotter" beer (more fusel alcohol, ie, hotter, more alcohol-y taste)

I am working up to 200 bottles stored.
Sweet! Just remember, some styles will keep a lot better than others. Hop flavor and aroma fade with time, so IPAs or other hoppy beers should be consumed somewhat quickly. Wheat beers also do not age too well. You can doa little research and see which styles age better than others.


Thanks again to you all
People around here are pretty awesome, huh?
 
Hmmm! maybe Aussie yeasts are more tolerent. I will continue brewing with the temperatures in the high 30's c that is. I store my beer in a shed in the garden. So up to now I have nebver detected any deteriation of taste etc. Still what do I know other than my beer is always better than any I have bought and on one of those 30+ days a cold beer hardly touches the sides.
 
Hmmm! maybe Aussie yeasts are more tolerent. I will continue brewing with the temperatures in the high 30's c that is.

30°C?!? (86°F) that's scorching. Try a nice ferment at 18°-21°C (66-70°F) and see how your beer tastes. I bet you don't go back to 30° again...
 
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