Collar on Keezer Question

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Hermish

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I am thinking about putting a collar on the freezer that I have in order to put some shanks through. The freezer is already plenty tall, so I was hoping to just add a 2x4, but I think I might have a problem, and was wondering if any of you might have ideas. The hinge has screws that go down 7", so if i raise the hinges 3.5" I won't have anywhere to re-attach it. Hopefully this makes sense. Here are some pictures.
IMGP0522.jpg

IMGP0523.jpg

Thanks
 
Attach the collar to the top, keep hinges where the are and attach top of hinges to the collar.

probably the easiest way to go. keep in mind, if you're faucets go through the collar, they'll need extra tubing to lift up.


I added a 2x6 collar to mine and the hinges are attached to the collar and the freezer itself. My collar is caulked tight to the freezer and it doesn't budge at all. When I re-located my hinges, I just drilled 2 new holes in the hinge bracket to screw into the original mounting locations on the freezer....just with the bottom bolts instead of the top. make sense?

anyway, it's rock solid but a bit more involved than KB's suggestion.
 
Attach the collar to the top, keep hinges where the are and attach top of hinges to the collar.

I thought about doing this, but was wondering the best way to attach the collar to the lid. Can you screw into the lid? I don't think just chalking would hold it on the top, like it normally would on the bottom.
 
I ran into the same problem a few months ago. 4" does not work. I ended up using red oak 1"X3". I think it is the perfect size. You can also go w/ 3" shanks with room to spare. The 3" size allows the lower screw on the hinge(on my keezer, measure yours!!!!!) to screw into the top hole in the back of the freezer. You can screw the the top hole of the hinge into the oak. Plus the oak has a very nice bling factor w/ the perlicks. Just cut, sand and mount. I mounted to the bottom. My lid would have been a pain to mount the lid. I used silicon(100%) caulk to attach. Also use a 1X as it is thick enough.
The other option is 6" or 8" and I didn't want that big of a collar. The 3" allows for easy keg insertion into the freezer. Lifting the keg over an 8" collar requires muscle. Charlie
 
Charlie
Maybe I'm missing something, but in order for me to move up one screw hole I would have to go 7" (see the picture), and that is more then I want to raise it. I might have to attach it to the lid, but I wanted to know the best way to do this.
 
Mine has an 8" Collar, so my solution was to leave the hinges attached to the lid, put the collar on, and put the screws back into the bottom of the hinge....wherever they landed. Mine ALL landed in the wood and it's very secure and stable.
 
Charlie
Maybe I'm missing something, but in order for me to move up one screw hole I would have to go 7" (see the picture), and that is more then I want to raise it. I might have to attach it to the lid, but I wanted to know the best way to do this.

I might be missing something. I can't see your pictures at work. One of the important numbers is the distance between the 2 screw holes. My distance was 3"(there is a little play here as the lower screw hole is not a round hole but an oval hole.) If you need to raise 7" then that tells me you have 7" between screw holes??? Is this correct? I'll look at it when I get home, sorry.
 
Charlie
Maybe I'm missing something, but in order for me to move up one screw hole I would have to go 7" (see the picture), and that is more then I want to raise it. I might have to attach it to the lid, but I wanted to know the best way to do this.

I can finally see your pictures!! My bad, you do have 7" between screw holes. I would go w/ the first 2 answers. I would still go w/ a 3" collar though. I might also use bolts through the wood instead of screws. The 1X3" collar weighs less than a 2x4".
OR you can drill new screw holes in the hinge that match up to your keezer's holes.
 
Digging this one up from the grave to see what the OP ended up with. Pics? I have the same exact hinge on the back of my freezer (Kemore).

Originally I had been thinking about making a larger collar to compensate for the distance between the holes on the hinge plate but this didn't play out well with the shelf that hangs over the only spot still left in the garge for keezer. It wouldn't leave enough room to get kegs in and out. Putting it on casters doesn't work either based on where the electrical outlet is in relation to where the keezer needs to live.

Thinking about just drilling some new holes in the hinge...
 
I can post some pictures tomorrow when I take them, but I actually just got some time to work on this over thanksgiving. I ended up making a 2x4 collar and attaching it to the lid. I took all the plastic off the lid and replaced it with plywood, and then put the 2x4s onto the plywood. The hinges staying attached to the base, and then attach to the 2x4s. I used the original weatherstripping, but attached it to the bottom of the 2x4. It seems to seal tight and is working well. I haven't ordered all the shanks and taps, that is next on the list. Hopefully that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
I can post some pictures tomorrow when I take them, but I actually just got some time to work on this over thanksgiving. I ended up making a 2x4 collar and attaching it to the lid. I took all the plastic off the lid and replaced it with plywood, and then put the 2x4s onto the plywood. The hinges staying attached to the base, and then attach to the 2x4s. I used the original weatherstripping, but attached it to the bottom of the 2x4. It seems to seal tight and is working well. I haven't ordered all the shanks and taps, that is next on the list. Hopefully that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.

Sounds good, thanks for the update. Please post some pics if you have them...I'm a bit torn on what I'd like to do but I've got all my hardware and just finished the gas set up last night :rockin:
 
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