Best/Safest Method of installing an Element

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goybar

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I have been reading through the electric forum and others for some time. I keep vacillating between propane and electric.

I finally (maybe) have decided to move over to electric.

I know there are a ton of ways to install an element, and I'm sure they all have some inherent risk.

Regardless of what method you personally use, what is the best or rather safest method of installing an element into a brew pot/kettle?

Regards,

Chris
 
There are plenty of methods out there and as long as they keep water away from the connections, they should all work equally well.

I don't like the setups that rely on the element threads as a ground. My element is grounded by the threads and my kettles and stand is grounded with a wire and lugs. This is a key safety point that seems to get overlooked sometimes.
 
Ischiavo, yes there are a lot of methods. Kal has one method, mux uses the brewewshardware method (pretty slick looking btw). That's kinda of where my question is coming from. There are a lot of methods that work, and work well. But is one method safer by its design?

I agree with your point on grounding.

As I have yet to start my "electric" project, I'm looking for the best way.

Ease/difficulty or $ not necessarily what I'm looking for. That informed decision will come later.

Chris
 
I tack weld the element nut to the back of a steel electrical box with a hole drilled in it to get the element connections inside the box. We have argued this point in a few other threads. I think it's inherently safer as any leak that occurs past the element threads cannot end up in the box as most other methods can. Mine is in the show us your element thread which you have probably seen.
 
Yes, I did see it there. So the idea with yours is that if there is a leak it will hit the gasket and hopefully drop down to the outside of the electrical box/wires. Where as if you have the rubber gasket inside the box there is a potential to hit the wire.

Chris
 
Yes, I did see it there. So the idea with yours is that if there is a leak it will hit the gasket and hopefully drop down to the outside of the electrical box/wires. Where as if you have the rubber gasket inside the box there is a potential to hit the wire.

Chris

Exactly. You catch on quick;). There was at least one thread shut down from arguing exactly that point...
 
I used a NEMA 4x SS box on mine. Sandwiched between a silver soldered SS nut and the water heater element gasket.

Works great and safe...grounded the box, kettle and my stand.

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7f9108e6.jpg
 
I am also in the "keep your element threads/nut outside of your enclosure" camp. I haven't posted mine in the show me your element thread because I'm not quite done yet, but here's what I've got so far:

cam00262-57101.jpg


Boxes are reclaimed junction boxes off scrap electric motors, modified to take a cover on both sides. I drilled a hole in the cover for the element contact block to fit through, then welded the element nut to the outside. I put a bead of silicone sealant on the inside of the cover around the contact block just for good measure.
 
lschiavo said:
Looks good TH. Nice looking cord connectors too. Where are those from?

Thanks. www.heyco.com. Look for the liquid tight cordgrips. I don't even know how much they cost, I got them as free samples by clicking on the sample request link. I don't know if they will send them without a company name.
 
I am also in the "keep your element threads/nut outside of your enclosure" camp. I haven't posted mine in the show me your element thread because I'm not quite done yet, but here's what I've got so far:

cam00262-57101.jpg


Boxes are reclaimed junction boxes off scrap electric motors, modified to take a cover on both sides. I drilled a hole in the cover for the element contact block to fit through, then welded the element nut to the outside. I put a bead of silicone sealant on the inside of the cover around the contact block just for good measure.


This, combined with the Brewers Hardware triclover fittings.

I run the ground wire to the inside of the junction box, but also ground the RIMS tube / kettle / chassis separately.
 
TH and Dert- first I don't mean to hijack this thread but I agree with the safety fact and I want to make sure I understand how you did your elements. You drilled the hole in the box, inserted the terminal side of the element into the box and then welded the attached 1" nut to the outside of the box?
 
Garyr2973 said:
TH and Dert- first I don't mean to hijack this thread but I agree with the safety fact and I want to make sure I understand how you did your elements. You drilled the hole in the box, inserted the terminal side of the element into the box and then welded the attached 1" nut to the outside of the box?

Exactly right.
 
Then the gasket that came with the element you put over the threads, insert it into the hole on the kettle and locknut on the inside (or use a welded 1" coupling)?
 
I soldered the SS nut to the keg wall and then screwed the element into it. The element was first, then a silicone gasket then the SS box then the SS nut. The element is removable and sandwiches the box onto the keg- no welding.
 
I soldered the SS nut to the keg wall and then screwed the element into it. The element was first, then a silicone gasket then the SS box then the SS nut. The element is removable and sandwiches the box onto the keg- no welding.

Your seal then is ultimately inside your box. Hence the welding.
 
Then the gasket that came with the element you put over the threads, insert it into the hole on the kettle and locknut on the inside (or use a welded 1" coupling)?

Yes, except I replaced the gasket that came with the element with a silicone one like most people around here use. I searched for reasons why people did not use the gasket that came with it but didn't find much. There may be those who do use them. My guess is that the gaskets are nitrile (buna n) rubber (like standard o-rings) which is rated for temps up to mid 200's(°F). This might be fine, but I decided to play it safe and go for silicone which is rated for much higher temps.
 
lschiavo said:
Your seal then is ultimately inside your box. Hence the welding.

Correct, but I am able to replace the element quickly an have no concerns around leakage. I was able to torque the element/ o ring/ box assembly down really tight using a socket and breaker bar. There is no chance on leakage as this is really tight.

How tight is yours if you are spinning the welded element and box around to orient it in the proper direction when done? These are straight threaded and rely on a tight o ring seal...
 
I have the element going thru the kettle wall, then silicone o-ring, then grooved locknut (BargainFittings kit). On the outside I have the housing covered with PVC junction boxes on the HLT, JB Epoxied to the housing and silicone over the outside in case of spillage over the side-wall. My seal is outside the junction box, but I also sealed the box from anything that comes from the outside.
 
I use these and couldn't be happier! But I have tri clover ferrules welded into my kettle.

http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

Gotta love a little CYA!

Warnings!!!

All connections should be made be a qualified electrician.
There is no guarantee that this adapter will make your connections any safer.
We are not electricians or electrical engineers! Use this fitting entirely at your own risk.
Improperly wired electrical circuits can and will KILL you.
If you have the slightest uncertainties in using this fitting, please return it for a full refund including original shipping cost.
 
501irishred said:
Gotta love a little CYA!

Warnings!!!

All connections should be made be a qualified electrician.
There is no guarantee that this adapter will make your connections any safer.
We are not electricians or electrical engineers! Use this fitting entirely at your own risk.
Improperly wired electrical circuits can and will KILL you.
If you have the slightest uncertainties in using this fitting, please return it for a full refund including original shipping cost.

Thank god I'm a journeyman wireman! Or else my house would have burned down.
 
I would have like to have been a fly on the wall during that product meeting. "OK team, when someone burns down there house, how can we claim NO responsibility?" Reminds me of first couple high voltage classes; If you don't xxxx, you will be killed; If you do xxxx, you will be killed... repeat 147 times......
 
501irishred said:
I would have like to have been a fly on the wall during that product meeting. "OK team, when someone burns down there house, how can we claim NO responsibility?" Reminds me of first couple high voltage classes; If you don't xxxx, you will be killed; If you do xxxx, you will be killed... repeat 147 times......

Ok class this is an instructional video on the effects of arc flash and the human body.
 
Correct, but I am able to replace the element quickly an have no concerns around leakage. I was able to torque the element/ o ring/ box assembly down really tight using a socket and breaker bar. There is no chance on leakage as this is really tight.

How tight is yours if you are spinning the welded element and box around to orient it in the proper direction when done? These are straight threaded and rely on a tight o ring seal...

I am not saying yours will leak. I am just trying to point out the difference between the methods.

I used the gaskets that came with the elements and just hand tightened until they were oriented as I wanted. Not a leak yet on three elements. I am not positive that they won't leak like you are but I am positive that if they do, they will not leak into the box.
 
True, but if mine does leak into the box, I doubt it will leak out as everything is gasketed on the NEMA4 box. Most probably, it would trip the gfci...

I do not like the JB weld design, relying on a chemical bond or the PVC cap relying on friction for safe coverage of the exposed wires. I personally like a mechanical bond to the element metal base- not just the wires or via an epoxied up box.

I really don't think leakage is a primary concern after one gets the element installed. More of a concern for me is the protection of the exposed terminals after years of use (and abuse)- heating/ cooling, cleaning, jostling around, etc...
 
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