Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs

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Urrgh. I'm just about to buy a chest freezer but the cost per cubic foot is a lot higher than the same in an upright. Has to live in my garage; starting to think an upright makes more sense.

I have mine in the garage as well, it takes up less floor space. But I also have a small chest freezer for fermenting. Mine has six taps.
 
I'm starting to build the wood frame. From your pictures it looks like there are side mount holes for the wire shelf. Where the holes already there or did you add them?

Line_Routing.jpg
 
If you put enough support in the shelf, there is no reason to need the "side holes".
You would have to cut the wires a bit so the rack will fit in the fridge level though.
 
Anyone using Accuflex Bev-Seal beer lines, and any issues with them flexing by the door?

I’ve seen people use it in a chest freezer. I don’t know what the advantages are with it. I didn’t know any better and ordered for my upright keezer and realized that stuff is supper stiff. I went with regular bev line which is perfect. I think 7/16 by 3/16, love it!
 
fwiw, the primary advantages provided by Bev Seal Ultra 235 line are conveyed by its PET liner. This substantially cuts oxygen permeability, and perhaps more importantly eliminates the "plastic" flavor common to solid PVC lines to which some folks are particularly sensitive (a genetics thing).

It does have a broader bend radius than solid PVC (eg: the industry standard Bevlex 200), and what is sold as 3/16" ID line is actually 1/5" ID - so lengths are appreciably longer for the same dispensing configuration. And of course that liner conveys premium pricing as well, but on the up side the liner is much smoother than solid PVC and should clean up better and last longer...

Cheers!
 
Jon... And anyone else with a 20cf keezer.

What were the interior dimensions?

I'm looking at getting a 2 door commerical refrigerator where the left side will be for kegs and the right for food.

Since the cost is pretty steep I want to be sure I'm thinking this through. I want to be able to do a two tier like these freezers on that side.

Any thoughts are appreciated. I share a house with my in laws, they have their own side of the house and we share a garage fridge. This simplifies and cleans up our food storage in the garage and adds volume for the food while giving me beer space.

Thanks in advance.

*Any 54" solid two door commerical refrigerator.
 
You could measure the size x the number of the kegs you want to add, then back into the needed dimensions.
 
Here's the internal dimensions of mine:
Height: 57.5"
Width: 27.25"
Depth1: 23.5" (top shelf area)
Depth2: 20.25" (bottom shelf area)
Depth of door racks: 5.25"

The bottom shelf area has a hump in the back that cuts into the depth. On mine, I can fit 5 kegs on the bottom shelf with them in a 3/2 stagger. Top shelf is 2x3 kegs (6). This is maintaining all the door shelves. If you remove the shelves on the door, you can then fit 6 kegs on the bottom shelf. I opted to keep all my door shelves for bottled beer, glasses, etc.
 
Thanks Jon.

Here's what I'm eyeballing.

Capture+_2020-06-30-12-37-08.png
 

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Just want to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread. I can't tell you how many times I read through the entire thread and studied all the pictures. I've been busy the last couple months with my very own upright keezer build..

I literally found the freezer on the side of the road and crossed my fingers that it worked. Sourced most of the parts lightly used from Facebook Marketplace. Biggest chunk of change was the pretty stainless steel drip tray.

Cheers!
 

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I'm hopefully picking up my freezer tomorrow from a Facebook ad. Is there anything different any of y'all would have done? I'm planning on using Evabarrier tubing for both gas and liquid everywhere - it's supposed to be pretty flexible.
 
I'm hopefully picking up my freezer tomorrow from a Facebook ad. Is there anything different any of y'all would have done? I'm planning on using Evabarrier tubing for both gas and liquid everywhere - it's supposed to be pretty flexible.
Ask them to turn it on the day before you pick it up, or in your case, now!
That way you'll know it works, runs and holds up.

Yes, EVA Barrier for the win! Minimal bending radius is like 2-3" with a little applied heat from a soak in hot water or a hairdryer, from what I've read.
 
I just switched to the EVA Barrier tubing and can say it's a great way to go. Very flexible, and much shorter tube runs that the Bev-Seal Ultra tubing I started with. You won't regret it!
 
I've had mixed results with my Eva barrier setup. My keezer has 4 taps and holds 5 kegs, while shifting them around in there to neaten up the beer lines one of the beer out posts started spraying beer where the tubing is pushed into the fitting. I had been watching elsewhere and the tubing on that keg had been pulled somewhat when the ball lock fitting needed to swivel but didn't. I've seen videos of how much force the push in fittings can withstand, but apparently not without leaking.

I have left that line disconnected from the keg since that day but I plan on trimming the tubing and replacing the fitting just in case it was somehow damaged or defective.

I chose the Eva barrier and push fittings in the first place to allow shorter lines but I didn't know I'd also be giving up peace of mind about beer leaks. My gas side I don't worry about at all, hose clamps and beefy tubing haven't failed me and I kinda wish I'd gone that route on the beer side.
 
I've had mixed results with my Eva barrier setup. My keezer has 4 taps and holds 5 kegs, while shifting them around in there to neaten up the beer lines one of the beer out posts started spraying beer where the tubing is pushed into the fitting. I had been watching elsewhere and the tubing on that keg had been pulled somewhat when the ball lock fitting needed to swivel but didn't. I've seen videos of how much force the push in fittings can withstand, but apparently not without leaking.

I have left that line disconnected from the keg since that day but I plan on trimming the tubing and replacing the fitting just in case it was somehow damaged or defective.

I chose the Eva barrier and push fittings in the first place to allow shorter lines but I didn't know I'd also be giving up peace of mind about beer leaks. My gas side I don't worry about at all, hose clamps and beefy tubing haven't failed me and I kinda wish I'd gone that route on the beer side.
I too experienced this kind of leaking. I've kept the EVA tubing, but abandoned the push-in fittings and reverted to barbs and Oetiker clamps. In a small/crowded kegerator interior it's hard to avoid stressing the fittings when wrestling kegs into place. I don't want any leaks!
 
Same here, EVA tubing but I am no longer using the push-in fittings, too easy to crack. I have the keg overflow setup and the elbow now has a crack. Mind you, this sits in a storage container until needed when filling a keg, it is not being used roughly and it has already cracked and you can here gas coming out of the crack which defeats a closed transfer!
 
I
fwiw, the primary advantages provided by Bev Seal Ultra 235 line are conveyed by its PET liner. This substantially cuts oxygen permeability, and perhaps more importantly eliminates the "plastic" flavor common to solid PVC lines to which some folks are particularly sensitive (a genetics thing).

It does have a broader bend radius than solid PVC (eg: the industry standard Bevlex 200), and what is sold as 3/16" ID line is actually 1/5" ID - so lengths are appreciably longer for the same dispensing configuration. And of course that liner conveys premium pricing as well, but on the up side the liner is much smoother than solid PVC and should clean up better and last longer...

Cheers!
I know your post is old but can you purchase the line in less than 100' lengths? Seems that is all I can find.
 
Interesting, I've used the John Guest fittings since I built my set up 4 years ago and have never had an issue with push-in fittings. I did put 90° elbows on the back of my shanks to relieve some stress on the lines, but never had any issues with them.
 
Recently switched to EVA barrier and I love it. Old stand up keezer died, and got replaced with a free fridge. I was worried about the repeated opening stressing the duotight shank fittings so I used hose clamps to secure them to the door. Therefore the fittings actually never see any stress/force from opening/closing the door. I'm an EVA barrier fan boy now...
0612211325.jpg
 
I know your post is old but can you purchase the line in less than 100' lengths? Seems that is all I can find.

I'm actually surprised you've found it in that long a length - the last time I saw anyone post a complaint re EVABarrier lengths for purchase it was a complaint that all that could be found were 12 meter rolls :)

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...ystem/532-EVABarrier-Beer-Tubing-39-foot-roll
https://kegfactory.com/products/evabarrier-double-wall-draft-tubing-4-mm-id-x-8-mm-od-12-m
https://www.morebeer.com/products/evabarrier-double-wall-draft-tubing-4-mm-id-8-od.html
No doubt there are others...

Cheers!
 
I have to say I'm struggling to understand the reliability issues others are having with EVABarrier lines and push-to-connect fittings. I love the tubing because it is exactly what we need wrt gas permeability (specifically O2) on both liquid and gas sides AND it is amazingly flexible AND you don't need a lot of it (in contrast to Ultra 235 - which was actually 1/5" ID, not 3/16", but I digress) to get the job done.

Now, I'll admit, I do not have many Duotight connectors. Out of 49 PTC fittings at last count only 3 of them are Duotights. The rest are JohnGuest and DMfit - but that was due to availability at the time: everyone and their sisters were kitting up for EVABarrier conversions and I couldn't find anywhere near enough fittings as I needed for a straight replacement of the barbs and swivels in my cold side space.

Ironically, I did manage to blow out the back of a Duotight 1/4" FFL connector through overtightening. But I can't say they are for sure prone to that compared to JG and DMfit - neither of which have failed here.

Anyway...I don't get the problems others are having. And if anyone wants a bag of maybe 50 or 60 1/4" barbs & swivel nuts, let me know. I'll never go back :)

Cheers!
 
I have to say I'm struggling to understand the reliability issues others are having with EVABarrier lines and push-to-connect fittings.

Well, I didn't really have any issue but I may be able to see how one might have a problem with Duotight fittings (well initially).

Being familiar with sharkbite and other push plumbing fittings I knew there was a little give as you pushed the tubing past the o-ring. Did that with my set up and went to test the first CO2 connection. Leaked bad of course. Pushed the tubing harder into the fitting and felt that distinct give of the second o-ring. Problem solved. Forgot about the second o-ring...

Also, why does everyone trust the slip fit of one o-ring (liquid post) but then turn around and feel the need to use a breaker bar on their duotight/JG fittings. A little leg lube and hand tightening is all that is needed for an air tight seal...
 
Recently switched to EVA barrier and I love it. Old stand up keezer died, and got replaced with a free fridge. I was worried about the repeated opening stressing the duotight shank fittings so I used hose clamps to secure them to the door. Therefore the fittings actually never see any stress/force from opening/closing the door. I'm an EVA barrier fan boy now...
View attachment 732061

So you didn't use a tailpiece on your shanks, right? Which fitting did you use for this?
 
Just want to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread. I can't tell you how many times I read through the entire thread and studied all the pictures. I've been busy the last couple months with my very own upright keezer build..

I literally found the freezer on the side of the road and crossed my fingers that it worked. Sourced most of the parts lightly used from Facebook Marketplace. Biggest chunk of change was the pretty stainless steel drip tray.

Cheers!
How did you attach the drip tray to the freezer?
 
This is very close to what I am building, even the same tap handles, lol. Only thing I'm doing different is mounting my taps separate from the Kezzer. Well done .
 
So a little over a year ago now I found out about this forum and the first thread I read was this one. I read it, over and over until I thought I had absorbed all of the great knowledge posted by everyone, especially the OP, JonW, then I read it again.

Well I'm happy to say that I'm about 95% done and as happy as I am to finish, I also wish I wasn't done with it, because it's been a great adventure to say the least.

Thank you JonW for the inspiration, now I need to get brewing to fill her up.
 

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How did you format your Raspberry Pints like that - its very good and I am having a lot of trouble amending css files - anychane of a css copy
 
How did you format your Raspberry Pints like that - its very good and I am having a lot of trouble amending css files - any chance of a css file copy
 
How did you format your Raspberry Pints like that - its very good and I am having a lot of trouble amending css files - any chance of a css file copy
Sorry, a little late in answering... It isn't Rpints. It is a static html/css file with an XML file used to define the beers. I just edit the XML file data when taps change. Much more lightweight than Rpints (but feature limited as well). I originally built my display on Rpints, but decided I didn't want the overhead and I could run this on a much older Rpi, so I just re-did it with HTML/CSS.
 
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