Kegerator Conversion: Frigidaire LFPH44M4LM

i have mine set at 1.. sitting at 41f.

Ok so I think I'm in good shape now. I don't think I was leaving fridge alone long enough to let the temp stabilize and I didn't have the foam insulation I added sealed down in any way. I taped the edges and any and every hole, gap, and seam around the foam to the existing seal with weather stripping tape and double checked the seal around the door and I think that did the trick. All is working well from what I can tell.

Way to go, and thanks for the update!

So what if I bought a thin piece of wood veneer to go on the backside of the door in place of the plexi-glass or foam insulation? I imagine it's not really gonna help insulate anything, but it's just a question I have. What type of foam insulation did you buy? A link would help to make sure I get the right thing if I go that route. Want to make sure I don't have the same issues before I go spend the money. Thanks in advance.

Some have not had the insulation issue that I have had but me personally I would not recommend anything without insulating capabilities. I am still having issues believe it or not with condensation freezing and then melting and freezing again. Then it donned on me that when I put in the plexiglass I used two pieces and did not seal the two together leaving an open space. This may be where the air is escaping. I sealed that area with the weatherstripping tape a few minutes ago and doubled up the insulation (1 inch now). I also sealed a few other possible problem areas as well and I'm waiting to see how that does. Even given the issues I have had im still enjoying the trouble shooting aspect of this and probably any other diy project.

The insulation I got was from lowes. It's a 4x8 sheet of green polystyrene foam rated at 3.3 on the insulation scale (mid range if I'm not mistaken). The sheet ran about 11 bucks. They also sell sheets of the same stuff that was in the door to start with for about 15 dollars and it's got double the insulating capabilities. Search insulation foam on lowes.com and it will show you what I purchased.

I plan on doing this build next week. I have everything ordered and its on the way. Is it really necessary to cut a piece of project board to cover the insulation on the inside of the door? Im assuming it may have some impact on insulation if you don't cover it with project board?

Has anyone just got the plastic shelving off then drilled the holes for the taps and put the door back on?

I feel like I've also seen a build on here where they didnt even take the shelving off the door. Just drilled 2 holes through the front and were able to fit 2 ball lock kegs in. I have it bookmarked at my apartment. Unfortunately right now Im at work.

I wouldn't say the board is a must but you need to have something there to support the nut on the shank and give it some back bone.

There are two fridge models... The one at best buy doesn't have the can rack and may not need modified but the one from lowes does for two kegs.

I agree with what mrduna01 just said, I've also heard that the pinlocks are harder to fit in these fridges than the ball locks, but that is just because of the internal side of the fridge door. I would rather not cut into the door, but Best Buy was $10 higher for the same fridge with the different door. Don't know if I'm gonna pay $10 extra for something from Best Buy.

Yeah true best buy is more expensive but I believe it doesn't need modified and you may be able to keep the warranty on the fridge and won't have to fuss with insulation issues. If I did it over I might go that route but not ripping a fridge door apart would take all the fun out of it!

Yeah, I see what you're saying, but I think the warranty would be screwed anyways by drilling through the front of the door. I just need to decide which Perlicks I wanna get. The regular ones or the creamer...............

BIGREDIOWAN said:

Yeah, I see what you're saying, but I think the warranty would be screwed anyways by drilling through the front of the door. I just need to decide which Perlicks I wanna get. The regular ones or the creamer...............

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Ha, duh! The warranty WOULD be bad regardless... I am drinking Homebrew, forgive me!

This is the conversion that I was going to do and he has smaller pieces of wood for support. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-build-107132/



After reading your last comments above, I heard pin locks won't fit in this fridge. I have ball locks so it won't matter to me but I read that the pin locks were too wide

finny13 said:

This is the conversion that I was going to do and he has smaller pieces of wood for support.

After reading your last comments above, I heard pin locks won't fit in this fridge. I have ball locks so it won't matter to me but I read that the pin locks were too wide

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Correct, pin locks are a bit bigger in diameter & won't fit without door mods.

I just did a test fit in mine (Best Buy) & 3-3gal kegs fit with no mods, 1-5gal & 2-3gal also no mods, 2-5gal & 1-3gal I need to move the light/t-stat. I'm sure I'll need to cut to fit a 1/6 with a 5gal & 3gal. Looking at it with all 3gal kegs in it you might be able to use a 20oz. paintball co2 & keep it inside.

I'm ordering my ball lock conversion kit as we speak. This should make the SWMBO happy in the morning.

Good luck!

Finally officially complete. Left it alone for a couple days after another round of insulation mods and alast NO CONDENSATION! . I'm finally done and very happy. Beer is freaking ice cold now!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60398739@N07/5551127864/

thanks to pericles for this build, i just finished it up earlier tonight and put my very first keg ever on tap. it was indeed straight forward, and someone with little mechanical talent (me) can easily do it.

i covered the front door with chalkboard paint, so i can write what's in each tap (see photo here). by rotating the temperature control 90 degrees and removing the light bulb i can easily fit two cornys in there, and there's enough room at the top of the door for the two taps (i must have measured about 10 times).

i'll have to watch it over the coming weeks to see if any condensation issues develop, but in the meantime i'll eagerly wait for my fat tire clone to carb up.

belair asked me if a 5-1/8" shank would work for this build. I tried to PM him back, but his inbox is full so. . . hopefully he'll get my answer here. If others disagree, please weigh in and let him know!

Do you think the 5 1/8" shanks would extend so far into the fridge that they would hit the kegs / interfere with closing the door?

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In my opinion, 5-1/8" shanks will be too long; my own 4 inch shanks are already so long that the door will only close if I shimmy the keg around so that the shank goes through the hole in the handle. Longer, I think, would make it impossible to close.

Moreover, you're going to have to connect the beer-line to the shank. The longer the shank, the sharper the bend in the beer-line and, also, the more foaming you'll get.

Pericles, you sir are a gentleman and a scholar!

(forgot that sent messages count toward your inbox as well! )

I noticed on your build that the faucets are mounted slightly lower than other similar builds on here. Do you think if I mounted the faucets closer to the top of the door, near the black frigidaire trim, there would be enough room for the 5 1/8" shanks?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60398739@N07/5511112052/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-build-107132/

My current plan is to use the below kit from keg cowboy. Do you think the 3 1/8" shanks would be long enough to reach through the door? (also, the fridge I am picking up is the Best Buy model with the removable plastic shelves, rather than the can rack on the door. I would like to avoid cutting the interior of the door if I can)

http://www.kegcowboy.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=135

Sorry for the multiple questions, I'm trying to get a handle on this build without having the fridge or kegs yet.

Thanks again for the great pictures and build write up, as well as answering my questions. I really appreciate it!

No problemo.

Do you think if I mounted the faucets closer to the top of the door, near the black frigidaire trim, there would be enough room for the 5 1/8" shanks?

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I think there's enough space to fit a shank between the top of the keg and the fridge ceiling. So yes, that could work.

Do you think the 3 1/8" shanks would be long enough to reach through the door?

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It would easily fit on mine. I'm pretty sure it will on yours, as you describe your build - but remember that I tore the door apart, so my completed door is thinner than the original model.

I am thinking about getting this fridge for my first keg setup. If I was just using picnic taps inside the fridge would I still need to modify the door to hold 2x 5 gal ball lock kegs and 5# bottle?

Yes.

For the door I took off the magnetic weatherstripping and cut the plastic just to the edge of the valley that holds the weatherstripping. Pulled, cut and chiseled the plastic "can holder" panel off leaving the foam behind. I smoothed out the foam so it's flat as can be then replaced the panel with a sheet of corrugated plastic. I cut it so in was just to the valley for the weatherstripping. Push the weatherstripping back into the valley and the lip should hold the new panel in place.

side view of the corrugated plastic


Pics of door...



Not sure where you would get the plastic. I get scrapes from work and I happened on a piece of white that fit very well. I think it came out super clean.

If you are able to score the model without the can holder built into the door (I think one version was sold at Lowes, and the other Home Depot), you can perform this build without cutting the door at all. I have pictures from my build and will post them later.

Just an FYI. I just built my kegerator using the model from Best Buy (the Lowe's model was all sold out) and wanted to confirm that no modification to the door is needed. See attached photo, two cornies and CO2 fit with no door mod needed. It's a little more expensive (210 vs 190) than the Lowe's model, but you do save some time by not having to mess with the door.

Lespedeza did you document your build at all? Just wondering if you had any problems getting the hole in the top for the tower, and is your co2 inside or outside?? Anyway to post a few more pics? This seems a bit easier than playing with the door & the tower gives it a bit more height.

Larzean, I followed the build that appears in this thread almost exactly.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-frigidaire-lfph44m4lb-conversion-build-225730/

The only thing that I did differently was I didn't use the copper tubes, I just left the hole open. I've got more pics. I'll see where I can put them so you can take a look.

My CO2 tank is inside. And yes, it was nice not having to mess with the door. Probably worth the price difference b/w this model and the Lowe's one.

Sweet thanks!! Did you notice refrigerant lines in the top as noted in that build? The models look a lil different, maybe just the door though.

Larzean said:

Sweet thanks!! Did you notice refrigerant lines in the top as noted in that build? The models look a lil different, maybe just the door though.

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Yes, the refrigerant lines were pretty much exactly as noted in the thread I posted.

Here's a picture of mine.



I just dug down carefully until I found them. The door is the only difference I really noted between the two different models. Let me know if you have any other questions.

lespedeza said:

Just an FYI.(the Lowe's model was all sold out)

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I just ordered the last one in my area. I'm hoping it's not a display model when I show up to get it tomorrow...

Could you fit a 6.5gal ale pail in the mini frigidaire??...its 12'' in diameter and 23.5'' tall including the airlock. If not, what type of fermenter could I fit in there that can hold a full 5gal batch?

I just picked up the Best Buy model today. It appears to be the exact same model as the Lowe's model, the only difference being the first letter, "L" for Lowe's, "B" for Best Buy, etc. The model number on Frigidaire's website begins with "F", presumably for Frigidaire.

But the BEST part is that Best Buy price matched hightechshoppermart.com. So instead of $209.99, I got it for $168.44 plus tax.

Hey guys,

Best Buy has this model on sale now for $170 (and if you have a Discover Card, you can also get 5% cashback through ShopDiscover...).

I've got one waiting for me to pick up at my local store, but I'm waiting to hear back from somebody on Craigslist about a used kegerator before committing myself to another project

I don't know if the Best Buy versions are still the ones with the different inside panel on the doors or not. If I pick it up, I'll be sure to post what I find.

Anyway, I thought I'd mention it in case there are others out there interested in converting this fridge.

Cheers!

bygracealone said:

Hey guys,

Best Buy has this model on sale now for $170 (and if you have a Discover Card, you can also get 5% cashback through ShopDiscover...).

I've got one waiting for me to pick up at my local store, but I'm waiting to hear back from somebody on Craigslist about a used kegerator before committing myself to another project

I don't know if the Best Buy versions are still the ones with the different inside panel on the doors or not. If I pick it up, I'll be sure to post what I find.

Anyway, I thought I'd mention it in case there are others out there interested in converting this fridge.

Cheers!

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I stopped by both Best Buy and Lowes on my way home from work - BB does indeed still have the better model. Woot! Going to go back tomorrow to pick one up.