Gravity readings always off

I'v brewed 4 batches so far. I'v used kits each time and followed the directions to a tee. On the first three the OG was slightly less than what was specified. All began fermentation quickly and fermented quite actively, but finished higher than specified. The forth batch, instead of topping off to 5 gals, I added water until I accomplished the specified OG. It's been fermenting for about 2 weeks and looks like its not going to get to its specified FG. Fermenting temps have always been between 68 and 74 degrees.

First two batches were ingredient kits put together by the local HB store, and the latter two were northern brew kits.

What's the deal? Any help would be appreciated.

Have you tested your hydrometer to make sure it's accurate?

What yeast are you using?

Also, gravity is approximate. If it's supposed to be 1.048 and it comes in at 1.046, that's not an issue.

Sounds like you concerns are with finishing gravity. I'm sure with kits you are just pitching dry yeast on top of your wort. This could be fine, but is there enough oxygen, and especially enough mineral and nutrient for your yeast to grow? My suggestion would be to let it ride right now, it will ferment to what it wants to(it will still be good). Maybe give it a good shake to get the yeast aroused, rise the temp (may get esters), but should attenuate. For future reference when brewing with LME or DME, you are aren't getting enough for your yeast to flourish. Grab a yeast nutrient from you brew shop and inquire about oxygenation. Hope this helps.

The kits have dry yeast packs but I made starters with them in each case.

As far as the hydrometer being accurate; I would assume it was off if it were always reading either high or low, but the fact that starts low and finishes high would indicate that it's not the hydrometer.

I'll check on the yeast nutrient, never heard of that before.

The beer tastes good but it just seems week.

Should I top off to 5 gals per the instructions or should I focus more on adding water to the specified OG?

if we're talking about extract kits, i agree that it may be solved by adding yeast nutrient, or potentially by better oxygenation of the wort after pitching.

if this is all-grain, your mash isn't converting well enough.

How far off are your gravity readings? Like raven1a said, if you are off by .002 that is not a big deal. My only thoughts on this matter are are you mixing the wort well before taking the OG reading, and are you correcting for temperature when you take your readings?

If you are looking for a higher attenuated beer to get more alcohol then just add a little table sugar, corn, or rice to get highly fermentable wort without taste obstruction.

As far as your hydrometer being accurate, just put it in a graduated cylinder of water and if it is at 1.000 its accurate.

As far as your question.....its not going to matter volume or density(specific gravity). They are an inverse proportion. The less volume the more density, more volume, less density....I.E 1.090 to 2 gal.....1.045 to 4 gal. Its going to ferment the same way.

So basically you could add nothing to your beer. The kits suggest topping off to just to get to 5 gal cuz that's homebrewer customary. It has no bearing on how your wort will ferment.

They have been extract kits.

They're usually off between 0.002 and 0.005 off. If that were the total deviation I wouldn't sweat it, but cumulatively it can be 0.010 off. On my imperial nut brown the difference in gravity changed my ABV from 7% to 3.5% (assuming I did my math correctly). I don't drink to get buzzed, but I do think the lack of alcohol is affecting the flavor, and in general I just want to get this brewing thing right.

There has been quite a bit of discussion on these boards about the best way to handle dry yeast, but the consensus seems to be that making a starter is counterproductive. Im no expert, but as I understand it the yeast is packaged in such a way that it should be ready to take off vigorously once sprinkled into wort, and that making a starter can waste healthy cells. The idea of a starter is to multiply the cells, not start fermentation, and there are plenty of cells in a pack of dry yeast to ferment a batch adequately. Use a pitching rate calculator like Mr. Malty to determine how much yeast you need. That will show that if you are using dry yeast 1 package will almost always be plenty.

There is also discussion about whether dry yeast should be rehydrated or not. Some tests have suggested that sprinkling the yeast directly from the package is best. I've done both, it's a matter of personal preference.

Also, something doesn't seem right about your math regarding gravity and abv. An expected OG of 1.075 that ferments to 1.020 equates to 7.2% while 1.065 to 1.020 is 5.89%. So if you are really coming out with 3.5% beer, that's a big issue. My guess is you are not oxygenating enough and the yeast starters are working against you.

Extract kits are generally always spot on in meeting OG and FG and off readings are almost always attributed to something off in the process or thermometers/hydrometers that are not being read properly or calibrated properly.

Proper and thorough mixing of the wort/top off water is usually a big issue as it's nearly impossible to achieve a perfect mix, temperature of the wort when taking readings is another. Adding the proper amount of top off water is another. To be off as much as you are stating to achieve a beer that is only 3.5% is quite difficult unless you added a lot more top off water than needed and over diluted the wort.

I do not believe this has anything to do with your yeast, oxygenation or temperatures of fermentation. Check and calibrate your measuring devices, verify your notes pertaining to volumes used and I think you'll find your answer. to be off .002 or .0005 is negligible and not a concern at all.

If you need further assistance, post your entire process with the specific information pertaining to the water volumes, temps, readings, recipe, etc.

mojo_wire said:

There has been quite a bit of discussion on these boards about the best way to handle dry yeast, but the consensus seems to be that making a starter is counterproductive. Im no expert, but as I understand it the yeast is packaged in such a way that it should be ready to take off vigorously once sprinkled into wort, and that making a starter can waste healthy cells. The idea of a starter is to multiply the cells, not start fermentation, and there are plenty of cells in a pack of dry yeast to ferment a batch adequately. Use a pitching rate calculator like Mr. Malty to determine how much yeast you need. That will show that if you are using dry yeast 1 package will almost always be plenty.

There is also discussion about whether dry yeast should be rehydrated or not. Some tests have suggested that sprinkling the yeast directly from the package is best. I've done both, it's a matter of personal preference.

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The only advice i would give with regard to handling of dry yeast would be to follow the manufacturer's instructions, since they probably know their yeast pretty well.

IIRC, the Nottingham package states quite clearly that notty yeast should be sprinkled onto sterile water at 80f - not stirred, and not fed sugar. It says to wait several minutes before stirring, as well. I've used this procedure, and it's worked well.

On the other hand, I've also pitched notty right onto the wort, stoppered the carboy, and shook it like a sonofabitch, and it worked just fine. My guess is that is because it is kickass yeast.