Please help me move to all grain

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Bayou classic SQ14 propane burner on Amazon works well for me. Also on Amazon the Winware 40qt aluminum professional stockpot.
 
I have the Bayou Classic SP10. The thing is a beast! The SP50 is the same burner if you prefer the tall legs instead of the short profile.
 
There are a few things that have been left out. This is my understanding as I'm about to make the jump to all grain here soon and have been reading as I'm guessing you have too. Braid vs False bottom. For your sparging if you batch sparge from what I've seen people use braids, if you're fly sparging a false bottom is typically used. That's purely nitpicking as I've seen every combination.

Second is the sparging temperatures. Depending on what you're brewing, type of grains, etc, etc you're initial temperature will vary. I've seen 148 to 155, again depending on the type of grains used (some grains are more refined than others. Take for example oatmeal stouts, if you use instant oats you can throw them right in your mash. But if you buy regular oats you have to cook them before adding them to your mash or else the sugars won't be to a state where you can extract the sugars. Granted that was long winded to get me to the temps. Your first batch will extract the simple sugars (easiest to get to) at the 148 -155 degree temp I mentioned earlier. The reason for the higher temps on the sparging...to break it down simply is to get the sugars that need a higher temp to be extracted. Sure you can by using the same temp but then you get into efficiency and that's a whole other discussion.

Third, as others have said...go big or go home. When I go I'm going to be getting at least a 15 gallon kettle for my boil kettle and then a 20 gallon kettle for my MLT with a 15 gallon HLT kettle. This will let me make big beers for 10 gallons because by the time you do a 5 gallon you might as well do a 10 gallon right? The other thing this would let you do is separate into two carboys and do different combinations, maybe using a different yeasts, dry hopping one and not the other, adding oak or bourbon, you get my point by now.

The only other thing I'd suggest is having sight glass and DEFINITELY a ball valve for ease of emptying in the boil kettle. That'll let you see just how much you've got. As for temp, I'd go cheap and easy and just throw a candy thermometer in. For the MLT if you're batch sparging just a ball valve. If you're fly sparging I'd suggest sight glass that way you can keep the MLT sealed and have a hose from your HLT feeding into your MLT to keep it at the right level. There are several designs around here.
 
There are a few things that have been left out. This is my understanding as I'm about to make the jump to all grain here soon and have been reading as I'm guessing you have too. Braid vs False bottom. For your sparging if you batch sparge from what I've seen people use braids, if you're fly sparging a false bottom is typically used. That's purely nitpicking as I've seen every combination.

Second is the sparging temperatures. Depending on what you're brewing, type of grains, etc, etc you're initial temperature will vary. I've seen 148 to 155, again depending on the type of grains used (some grains are more refined than others. Take for example oatmeal stouts, if you use instant oats you can throw them right in your mash. But if you buy regular oats you have to cook them before adding them to your mash or else the sugars won't be to a state where you can extract the sugars. Granted that was long winded to get me to the temps. Your first batch will extract the simple sugars (easiest to get to) at the 148 -155 degree temp I mentioned earlier. The reason for the higher temps on the sparging...to break it down simply is to get the sugars that need a higher temp to be extracted. Sure you can by using the same temp but then you get into efficiency and that's a whole other discussion.

Third, as others have said...go big or go home. When I go I'm going to be getting at least a 15 gallon kettle for my boil kettle and then a 20 gallon kettle for my MLT with a 15 gallon HLT kettle. This will let me make big beers for 10 gallons because by the time you do a 5 gallon you might as well do a 10 gallon right? The other thing this would let you do is separate into two carboys and do different combinations, maybe using a different yeasts, dry hopping one and not the other, adding oak or bourbon, you get my point by now.

The only other thing I'd suggest is having sight glass and DEFINITELY a ball valve for ease of emptying in the boil kettle. That'll let you see just how much you've got. As for temp, I'd go cheap and easy and just throw a candy thermometer in. For the MLT if you're batch sparging just a ball valve. If you're fly sparging I'd suggest sight glass that way you can keep the MLT sealed and have a hose from your HLT feeding into your MLT to keep it at the right level. There are several designs around here.

Right on. As for mashing vs. sparging, think of it like this: the mash is a biological process, like fermentation. Something that is alive is doing the work for you, in this case enzymes and not yeasts (OK so enzymes may not technically qualify as "life" but you get it).

Like yeast, the enzymes would be inactive below a certain temperature and dead above a certain higher temperature. Plus, there are more than one type of enzyme that you want to get working, and they work at different ideal temperatures. The target temperature hits a window in which most of them are pretty happy.

"Mash-out" is the process of raising the temperature to that at which all the enzymes peter out (generally 170). This reason to do this at a specific time rather than just letting those little enzymes keep going until they have converted all the starch to fermentable sugars is that if you did that you'd end up with a really dry, alcoholic beer. Various styles want to keep different combinations of starches and more complex sugars that yeast cannot digest and ferment. More of them will give you a sweeter and more full-bodied beer.

The final step here is the sparge, which is a chemical process, much like making hot chocolate. It's just a matter of dissolving sugars into the water, which we all know works more completely at a higher temperature. The ideal temperature for sparking is above that which would denature the enzymes, so it's a good thing it comes afterwards! Of course there is a temperature ceiling that you don't want to pass (around 180) because at that point tannins will ALSO start to dissolve off of the grains and into your wort. You don't want that. But you definitely want to get all the sugars that are left stuck to your malt after the mash. Sure, you could not sparge, but you would have to use a bunch more grain in the mash to make up the difference.

I hope that helps to demystify the process a little. I know I had a hard time getting the "whys" of it at first, and unless I understand those, I never really get things right!
 
My jump to AG was a bit nerve wracking at first. Read up on AG methods(I adopted a double batch sparge with my setup and I have no efficiency issues with my current setup).
Build your equipment, learn your equipment and methods, change out what does not work(I went from a false bottom round igloo to a larger square igloo with a braid that just worked better for me), and have fun with it.
Totally agree with the recommendation of getting a big brew pot and a good propane burner. Those are musts.
Don't forget to have a full standby propane tank for backup on your main propane tank. If you run out of propane mid-brew with no backup, it makes for an un-happy brew day. I learned that the hard way. I get about 2.5 brews out of my propane tank and always have a backup tank.
I would also recommend an immersion chiller as well. You can make one yourself for about $40 as opposed to buying one for $65-$75. Hauling that hot pot with 5 gallons of hot wort sloshing around in it to a sink for an ice bath sucks.

Just some extra recommendations that I have found that make my brew day a more relaxing experience.
Cheers!
:mug:
 
Lots of great info here. Don't know if it's been said yet, but I do have a "lesson learned" from my first all-grain. When you first mix the hot water and the grain together for the mash, don't "chase the needle" with your temperature. Give it a few minutes to equalize before you start trying to adjust the mash temperature. I didn't do this on my first batch and ended up all over the place on the temperature. It spiked hot when I first added the strike water and I immediately started dumping in cool water. It then dropped way too cool and I fired up the stove. This went back and forth for a while before I got to my target temp. The end result was still a great beer, but the stress level was too much. It's supposed to be fun right? :eek:
 
^This
I have to agree, this sounds very similar to my first AG experience. I was so focused on getting the mash temp spot on.

I took the advice of many posters, including moderators that gave me simple but helpful advice.
I heat up about 6 gallons of water first and then dump about 2 gallons of that water @ 170 degree into my Igloo MT, cover and let it sit for about 10 minutes (preheat)
At this point I check it and it usually is right around 165 or so.
Add the remainder of my strike water, dough in and stir "like it owes me MONEY" (footnote to Yooper)
This usually results in temps right around 154-155 or so (usual grain bill of 10-12#) and then stir for a bit longer to get the temps down to 152-153.
I cover and mash for 60 minutes. I used to check every 15 min, then decreased to every 30 and after about 6 AG brews, I know that my MLT keeps the temp constant for the whole 60. (I even had it increase a degree once)
IMHO this is the easiest way to get the task accomplished.
It's supposed to be fun right?
 
I've honestly not read through all the discussion but just my 2 cents:

I went all grain on my forth batch of beer, adding just a stock pot and a nylon bag to my equipment.
It really doesn't have to be a "jump" like people make it out to be, and it's my honest belief that decades of accumulated habits have made AG brewing out to be far more complicated than it needs to be. The Aussies with their BIAB and no-chill are a good example of how your can simplify the process yet still make equally great beer.

Anyway, my recommendation to anyone going A.G. is to get BeerSmith or an equivalent and play around with a few recipes. After adjusting a few volumes and creating a mash schedule with the help of software, you'll know the process like the back of your hand before you've even made your first A.G. batch.
 
If nobody suggested it yet, take a look at the BIAB (Brew In A Bag) method of AG brewing. It's originally an Aussie method. For many of us, BIAB was a quick , easy, low-cost move to AG brewing. There are naysayers, but there are hard-core devotees, as well (myself included).
 
All grain brewing can be a simple process, but you are over-simplifying just a bit. You have a few missed steps in there. A good place to start is by reading this. http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/index.html
Better yet, buy his newest edition. It's a great book and will come in handy as you progress through all grain.
Also, I would go with a 10 gallon boil kettle. The extra headspace is nice when you generally have about 7.5 gallons of wort in there to start the boil.

It is a great little book, Ihave bought it twice... loaned it out and never got it back...
 
I have plenty of money, and I want to make this as easy on myself as possible.
As an aside, you should never tell people that... otherwise before you know it, people will be trying to sell you this setup:

41887.jpg


Kal
 
If money is not an issue at all I would get that blichmann tower setup thingy. That would make it easy on you and it'd puuirdy
 
Maybe this has already been said but if I was you I'd go for a 10 gallon kettle.
 
People may try to sell you more than you think you need.

Kal

Haha that was sarcasm. Doesn't come across quite the same on a board haha. Don't we all want the bling bling?!

That said, I just moved to all grain and got a 10g kettle. Pretty happy with it.

My .02: you want a 10g. The extra space is 100% beneficial for 5g batches and if you want you can do 10g partials.

Also you WILL want a spigot. If money isn't tight get a kettle with one already on it. For me, throwing in an extra 100+ dollars for 30 bucks of plumbing was silly(i have the means to add one down the road.) kinda wish I'd got one already on it all the same :/

10g all the way. If you really serious into homebrew 15 wouldn't necessarily be overkill. All I'm saying is I now see where all the bigger is "easier" mentality comes from.
 
Also worth mentioning, if your a fine tuner, when you boil larger batches ie 10, 15g batches you are free to split them up and tinker with the fermentation process. Pitch different yeast. Different dry hops etc.

So say you got a 15g kettle, you could do a 15g partial and get three 5g batches. Pitch Cali ale, behomien lager, and your fav saison strain and have a blast experimenting.
 
I moved up to all grain with a 22qt SS pot, a bucket in bucket MT,and a couple of decent thermometers. I already had a propane burner from a smoker available, so I didn't have to buy that too. Do I wish I had a bigger burner, a bigger pot with a spigot, and an insulated cooler? You bet I do. But all in all, I am happy I get to do something I enjoy that produces a product I am proud of (mostly) and get to save money all at the same time. When I figured out I could make two cases of beer for about the same cost as one from the store (going AG), I stopped making extract brews, and took the plunge Granted, I have made a few batches that were borderline drinkable, and some that were really good. The two most important things I have learned about home brewing, are patience and being completely anal about sanitation by never taking for granted a pot or bucket is clean enough to use w/o washing again. I had a couple of bad batches due to the fact I didn't pull the spigots apart and bleach them before I filled my primary with wort. Even though every bottle was a gusher, they didn't taste infected, and were drank anyway.
 
Lastly, try to remember people have been doing this for like 10,000 years.

Don't overthink it!

It's not rocket science and if you're off by a little it's still going to be beer.

Relax and yada yada yada
 
As an aside, you should never tell people that... otherwise before you know it, people will be trying to sell you this setup:

41887.jpg


Kal

Wow. What size is that brewery. Is it a FemtoBBL or maybe Atto? That thing looks like maybe a 8-10oz from grain to glass size.
 
It's a 20 gallon setup.

Original thread was on another forum here.

The owner of Bavarian Brewing Technologies buys his ingredients from us, so on Sunday I got to go over to his house and look at his system. It's a scaled down version of a professional 60 bbl brewery, only it produces 20 gallons at a time. Describing it wouldn't do it justice, so I'm including a picture. The brewhouse is on the left, one of his jacked conical fermenters is in the center and two jacketed serving tanks are on the right. There's a little more information on their website: http://bavarianbrewerytech.com/

In case you're wondering the same thing I did, he says it would cost about $60,000 to build another one, at today's stainless prices.

Another angle:

pilotPerspective.jpg


Anyone want to lend me $60K? ;) (Actually, better make it $70K as that quoted estimate was from 2007!)

Kal
 
I dont have much brewing experiance, however, what i can add to the conversation is this.
My second ever batch was all grain, i converted a 48ltr cooler and the 8 gal kettle was from the fryer we had. my first batch ever was a cooper wheat-prehopped, so really i had no experiance at all. I missed all my tempertures, got crazy about stiring the mash and probabally salivated in the primary at some point too, ah yeah i had no way of cooling the wort down eather. I did get a make a few notes after a long brew day tho, MAN I HAD FUN, the house smelt great and look what i created, and with missing all the temps i still came away with a great tasting fresh beer, albeit not the style i was going for but whatever. I say do it and have a great deal of FUN in the process.
Dan.
 
Not sure if you have considered making a manifold out of pvc piping. I also have a 10 gal igloo cooler with an manifold which sits flush on the bottom leaving minimal residual water at the base of the cooler. It was easy to build and keep clean.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/efficient-octagonal-cpvc-manifold-rubbermaids-268491/

I recently moved into all grain and I have found that buying in bulk (both grain and especially hops) has been tremendous. It saves you a significant amount of money (batch cost half the price of extract), and it's nice being able to brew on a whim.
 
If you want to go all-grain, but fear you don't have the space for mashtun, burner, etc... you could brew in a bag. Put crushed grains into 24" x 24" nylon straining bag, pull bag out and sparge with water when done mashing, use stove top for heat source. Oh, and buy a digital thermometer. When you first start all-graining, it would be helpful to have iodine solution, dropper, baster, and small cup, to know when all the starch is converted.
 
Before I begin, yes I know that all my questions have probably been answered ad nauseam. I apologize, but I just want to make sure I've got everything in order before I go buying stuff.

I have been brewing extract for a year and half. I have a fermentation fridge, kegerator, 3 kegs, hydrometers, air locks, etc. Now I am on to the logical next step - All grain.

It seems like a big step in my mind, but after talking with the guy at the LHBS today, I think I'm going to go for it. I have plenty of money, and I want to make this as easy on myself as possible. Here's my list:

1 propane burner
1 10 gallon igloo cooler
1 false bottom for said igloo cooler
1 8 gal (or bigger) brew pot with thermometer and ball valve

My understanding of the process is that I will put the (crushed) grain into a muslin bag and put it into the 10 gal. igloo cooler w/ false bottom. Then heat (5?) gallons of water up to 155, dump that water into the cooler, put the lid on and wait an hour, let some run out and then pour it back into the cooler (do this three times), then let it all run out into my brew pot. This is now wort. From there the process is the same as doing extract minus the extract, right? Bring to boil, add hops, wait 45 mins, add more hops, wait 15 mins, cool to 75ish, aerate, pitch, etc, etc. Is there something I am missing, or is it really that easy? Is there anything I need to look for when buying the equipment on my list (max BTU on propane burner, build quality of brew pot, etc)? I apologize because as I said, I know all the information is here in front of me, but it just seems like a lot - But when the guy explained it to me, it seemed pretty simple. Essentially the igloo cooler with the false bottom is a mash lauter tun, which is a mash tun and sparge bucket combined, right? I hear so many terms, I don't even know. Help me out here guys.

I was just like you... wasn't sure whether to go to all grain or not... watched all of the videos, read all of the books....

Just do it man... You are ready. Once you've brewed your first all grain beer you'll see that the process seems natural, and like you've been doing it all of your brewing career. THEN... you taste your first all grain beer and you realize why you've been doing all of this. The pay-off is the first drink of your very first all grain beer. Your eyes were shut... and NOW you see....
 
Yes. Don Osborn is a good source of info. I also watched all of the Brewing TV episodes at Norther Brewer. Most were about home brewing... several were very informational.
 
Another step to get into all grain is BIAB. I just started 3 gallon batches in my 22 qt pot using paint strainers. With a small grain bill it's easy to lift and put in a colander over a pot or bucket.
 
If you're a "gadgety" kind of guy, don't do it. Trust me, it will become the death of your checkbook. There is just too much cool stuff!
 
I have plenty of money, and I want to make this as easy on myself as possible. Then your options expand Here's my list:

1 propane burner Good, get the biggest you can afford and can operate because you are soon going to want to do larger batches
1 10 gallon igloo cooler
1 false bottom for said igloo cooler
1 8 gal (or bigger) brew pot with thermometer and ball valve You definitely need a bigger brew kettle for five gallon 60 minute boils you will constantly fight boil-overs. You will not have enough volume if you want to do 90 minute boils, which I would recommend.

My understanding of the process is that I will put the (crushed) grain into a muslin bag and put it into the 10 gal. igloo cooler w/ false bottom.(With the false bottom you do not need the bag. This confuses traditional all-grain and brew-in-a-bag. If you want to use the bag then don't waste money on the false bottom.) Then heat (5?) gallons of water(it depends on your mash thickness. Most guys use 1.25 to 1.5 quarts per pound.) up to 155,This temperature will depend on how fermentable you want your wort to be--higher is less fermentable and lower is more fermentable) dump that water into the cooler,(Once again, this depends on what temp you are shooting for in your mash. with 155 water, if you dump it in with the grist, you will end up mashing somewhere in the 140's. For some styles this will be too low. You need to get a tool to calculate strike temps. I recommend BrewSmith.) put the lid on and wait an hour,(I stir mine every twenty minutes. Some don't.) let some run out and then pour it back into the cooler (do this three times), then let it all run out into my brew pot. (It depends on how you want to sparge or if you want to sparge. If you do fly sparging you will slowly run water into the top of the MLT while slowly pulling wort out below. This should take a long slow time and the top of the grain should be kept covered with water until the sparge is almost complete. If you batch sparge, you would run out your first runnings, add water at about 168 deg to the mash tun, stir, let sit for a few minutes, then vorlauf and run out the sparge water into your kettle.) This is now wort. From there the process is the same as doing extract minus the extract, right? Bring to boil, add hops, wait 45 mins, add more hops, wait 15 mins, cool to 75ish, aerate, pitch, etc, etc. (Hop rates vary greatly depending upon what you are making.) Is there something I am missing, or is it really that easy? Is there anything I need to look for when buying the equipment on my list (max BTU on propane burner, build quality of brew pot, etc)? I apologize because as I said, I know all the information is here in front of me, but it just seems like a lot - But when the guy explained it to me, it seemed pretty simple. Essentially the igloo cooler with the false bottom is a mash lauter tun, which is a mash tun and sparge bucket combined, right? (No, it is a mash tun and lauter tun combined. A sparge bucket would be the bucket used to deliver sparge water to your tun through either batch sparging or fly sparging.) I hear so many terms, I don't even know. Help me out here guys.

Once you get those down then you can start messing with water salts, pH, longer or harder boils, different hopping schedules and techniques, etc.
 
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