Planning on motorizing my barley Crusher URGENT

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chiefairwrench

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You're getting yourself into a can of worms here. This will give you 12.8 (approx) foot pounds of torque, which may be fairly close to what you require. The question in my mind is what are you going to power it with? I would actually measure the torque required to turn the BC mill......... that alone can be an interesting challenge. Probably the easiest way is with a spring scale on the crank handle. Center to center distance on the handle of my BC is 5.5" That means that means that you would divide the force on the handle by 2.18 to get actual foot pounds of torque. Or multiply by .4583....
If you are really creative, you can figure out a way to hook a torque wrench up to the shaft and measure that way

I like stuff I build to work out of the box, so I do the math.............

Horsepower = torque * RPM / 5252

Problems crop up with dishonest ratings on motors..... is it actually 1/6 HP, and if so at what voltage is it 1/6 HP..... I would assume this is at the 130 volt figure. Simply hooking up a bridge rectifier to the line voltage....... if you know how to do it, will get you somewhere in this range, but it's not very clean.

I've used a lot of KBIC motor controllers on motors of this type......... They can be found on Ebay usually........ and fairly cheap, but they output 90Vmax. If torque were constant, this would be no problem......but electric motors have a torque curve like gas engines.

I personally think you are in over your head........... You want a simple AC induction motor.

I would never consider electric power on my BC.... unless I was a feeble old man..... The time and effort required to crush my grain is pretty trivial. I brew small... 2.5 gallons, and my typical grain bill is about 6 pounds....... Even at twice that I would still hand crank....
But then I have a "use it or lose it" philosophy. I actually walk whenever I have the opportunity....... 2 mile round trip to the post office every day.... Cook things from scratch instead of from a package...... Calculate figures in my head when practical.....mow my own lawn.... change my own oil and fix my own vehicles, break down and patch my own tires from car tires to heavy equipment tires, grow my own garden, kill things and eat them, reload my own ammo, Build things with my own hands, fix my own plumbing and electrical, paint, maintain my own well and septic system, furnace, cut, haul and spit my own firewood (with a maul)......... and of course grow (some of) my own hops and brew my own beer. The sedimentary lifestyle had not caught on here ;-). I'll be 60 this year, and I'll do things for myself until they plant me!!

H.W.
 
My first suggestion is return the Barely Crusher and get a Monster Mill or Crankenstien. I have a Barely Crusher and man it sucks. After running a few pounds of grain through it stops crushing. Many others have had the same issue. Just search the forum.
 
Ok great when been using our barley crasher for 2 ys with a drill no issues yet but will advise and it is time for a better one. Any suggestions on a motor
 
My first suggestion is return the Barely Crusher and get a Monster Mill or Crankenstien. I have a Barely Crusher and man it sucks. After running a few pounds of grain through it stops crushing. Many others have had the same issue. Just search the forum.

Unfortunately there seem to be a lot of people incapable of thinking for themselves...... I've done 67 all grain brews so far, and all but 4 of those were with grain crushed with my BC mill. In that time, I've had it apart a grand total of twice (for cleaning). Mine is bolted to a steel plate on a stand, and I had the problem everybody complains about almost immediately, and almost immediately realized that the solution was to simply leave a bit of play in the bolts that hold t down....... Back them off half a turn instead of cranking them down "cowboy tight". It is an excellent and reliable mill. I see no signs of wear, etc, and I'm approaching 400 pounds of grain. The first time I tore it down was because of making the mistake of pouring some DME in with the grain... to mix it. The second time was just because I felt it was "about time".
In this case the manufacturer made the "mistake" of building it to be economical. Heavier side plates and measures to ensure that bearing alignment is always perfect, and two driven rollers, add a LOT of cost to manufacturing. This "mistake" unfortunately came back and bit him in the ass.......

H.W.
 
Unfortunately there seem to be a lot of people incapable of thinking for themselves...... I've done 67 all grain brews so far, and all but 4 of those were with grain crushed with my BC mill. In that time, I've had it apart a grand total of twice (for cleaning). Mine is bolted to a steel plate on a stand, and I had the problem everybody complains about almost immediately, and almost immediately realized that the solution was to simply leave a bit of play in the bolts that hold t down....... Back them off half a turn instead of cranking them down "cowboy tight". It is an excellent and reliable mill. I see no signs of wear, etc, and I'm approaching 400 pounds of grain. The first time I tore it down was because of making the mistake of pouring some DME in with the grain... to mix it. The second time was just because I felt it was "about time".
In this case the manufacturer made the "mistake" of building it to be economical. Heavier side plates and measures to ensure that bearing alignment is always perfect, and two driven rollers, add a LOT of cost to manufacturing. This "mistake" unfortunately came back and bit him in the ass.......

H.W.

I have done well over 1000 all grain brews in my 20 plus years of homebrewing. The first mill I bought was a Phil s mill and the last homebrew sized mill is a Crankenstein. In the middle was the misery that is the Barley Crusher.
 
If you want a really robust motor w/ gear reduction go for the All American Ale Works Power Grinder.
Plenty of torque & will give you 175-180 RPM which is ideal.
You'll need two'll need two Lovejoys plus a spider to connect to your mill.
 

Mounting a drill is the easiest way to do it.

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I use an old xerox machine gear reduction motor used to drive an engineering copier... its small being about twice the size of the average drill motor and works well until a stone makes its way into the mill (I then have to "help it along" by turning the pulley by hand.) This rarely happens though. I lost some torque by using pulleys to speed it back up a bit since it was too slow on its own.
I use a cereal killer which is very similar to the barley crusher and has the same binding issues if not adjusted evenly which many mistake for being broken... For a 99 dollar mill I am very happy.... if I was running a business and had over 2000 brew sessions under my belt I would spend more for something more robust and easily adjusted but for "normal" home brewing scale use and budget I agree its great.


On a side note...I bet you could pick up this heavy duty grain mill pretty cheap since its been rotting away in the abandon Stella Artios brewery in Belgium. I bet shipping would be a killer though:)

http://opacity.us/image5031_solitary_machine.htm
 
Does anyone now which love joy coupler fits the shaft of the barley crusher i heard its 3/8. I am trying to order mine tonight.
 
I found a couple of these in my garage but the stickers that say what voltage they run on are gone... its DC and runs slow on a car battery and faster on 24v but I suspect its a 90v motor... I ordered a $4 bridge rectifier to make a $12 ac to dc power supply with it and an ac wall dimmer switch... I also found the pulleys from tractor supply fit perfect. I suspect the gear reduction will make it too slow like my other motor and I need the pulleys to counter act this a bit and speed it up.

IMG_20150519_202546_628.jpg
 
would anyone be kind enough to post the part numbers for the love joy couplings L 075, sleeves for the 1/2 to 3/8 reducer. I have found the right Love Joy for the motor not sure about the rest
:confused:
 
well just an fyi for those on a budget.... a $4 bridge rectifier such as this , http://www.ebay.com/itm/261623326473?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
and a regular ac wall light dimmer is all that was needed to power my 90v gear motor pictured above off of ac power...
I tested it last night and I have speed control with the dimmer... I may add a cheap digital voltage readout meter though since I am worried about overdriving it. I have also considered a voltage "smoothing" capacitor which helps improve the dc power created this way but am unsure of what size to use at this point...

Now I just have to assemble everything... my last stand/motor setup was very ugly and bare bones so I'm going to be more patient with this build.
 
I use a harbor freight motor hooked up to a 90 degree speed reducer that cuts the rpm by 10 and multiplies the torque by 10. That is then hooked to the mill with a lovejoy. I think the rpm of the motor is 1700 but it is reduced to 170 after the reducer. I have had 0 issues since putting it together
 
It's from surplus center .com it was about 120 bucks. I found it much cheaper than a low rpm high torque motor and a lot easier than rigging up the big wheel and little wheel reducer that I've seen. Here is the link to what I think is the reducer I bought. They have so many on there. You'll need to match the reducer to the motor you have. They are rated for max HP and RPM input from whatever motor you have to attach to it. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands...-0-77-HP-56C-RIGHT-OUTPUT-13-133-10-R-56C.axd
 
Just about finished I purchase the wrong switch and cover test run and adjustsed everything ran great. now we have a matching set. :ban:

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I know that the OP already has his solution. But for anyone else looking for a solution, has anyone tried a garage door installation/repair service. I've heard they are more than happy to move a motor for a few dollars. And they spin slow enough (gear box I think), have more than enough power and work on 120 volts.
 
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