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Doing my first 1 gal experimental batch this week. Used the recipe converter on beersmith to make it smaller. I've only ever used yeast smack packs and the converter tells me to use Two grams of dry yeast. Two questions. Does that sound like enough? And do I just drop the dry yeast in or should I hydrate it first?

Cheers!
 
bellmtbbq said:
Has anyone ever used Munich in an American pale/brown ale? I have a pound laying around that I need to use

Sure, Munich with fuggles, Willamette, Saaz the list goes on. Munich is very malty so just keep that in mind.
 
Has anyone ever used Munich in an American pale/brown ale? I have a pound laying around that I need to use

Everytime...LOVE Munich. In my last two brews (Pale Ale, IPA) I did 20% Munich in each. I'm a big hop head so having a stronger malt helps to create some balance. Adds a nice orange color to it as well
 
Doing my first 1 gal experimental batch this week. Used the recipe converter on beersmith to make it smaller. I've only ever used yeast smack packs and the converter tells me to use Two grams of dry yeast. Two questions. Does that sound like enough? And do I just drop the dry yeast in or should I hydrate it first?

Cheers!

Hydrating yeast is a personal thing. Some guys say its a must, some guys report better results, others will say it doesn't matter either way. Personally, I don't hydrate and get good results.

Yes, 2 grams sounds about right for any beer that's 1.060 OG and under for a 1 Gallon batch.
 
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.

Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?

Any info is greatly appreciated!
 
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.

Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?

Any info is greatly appreciated!

I haven't used wyeast since I started doing small batches, but the first thought that came to mind was to have a small mason jar with some starter wort in it and pitch what you need and put the rest in the jar and place the jar in the fridge until you need it again. Just make sure everything is sanitized very well.
 
Since there was some interest, I tasted the fermented maple syrup today. It doesn't taste bad, but I didn't get a hint of maple from it. It is possible that this is because it is very young and the strong alcohol flavor is overwhelming it.

I'm going to age some to be sure, but my first impression was watered vodka. Disappointing.

A simultaneous batch I was running was cranberry wine. Just ocean spray cranberry juice with some sugar to up the gravity. Nicely smooth, and a nice cranberry flavor. Pleasantly surprised this time. I expected this to go horribly sour with the sugar fermented out. If anything, the impression of the sour cranberry flavor has mellow a great deal.

It's still to young really, but I put a couple bottle away to age. It should be fantastic in a few months.
 
Leadgolem said:
A simultaneous batch I was running was cranberry wine. Just ocean spray cranberry juice with some sugar to up the gravity. Nicely smooth, and a nice cranberry flavor. Pleasantly surprised this time. I expected this to go horribly sour with the sugar fermented out.

Dude... That sounds like hooch! Lol
 
BorealBrewer said:
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.

Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?

Any info is greatly appreciated!

I think if you wanna use liquid yeast, White Labs is the right way to go, with their resealable vials.

Alright so I will use the Munich, 2 lb of 2 row, 1 Munich, mash real low. Centennial Pale ale should be good
 
I'm looking to make a 1 gal recipe calls for vanilla bean during fermentation I've seen vodka soak method. But on small batch will that vodka overpower the beer? Any alternative methods?
 
For the vanilla bean, you could try just using half of a bean in the traditional fashion (ie: cut and scraped, soaked in vodka/similar liquor, placed in fermenter after fermentation subsides). An alternate method that I have used in a breakfast stout, add pure vanilla extract to the priming solution before bottling. If you get the good stuff, no need to sanitize as it is 30% or so alcohol. You can just add to taste.
 
Thanks for the advice about the yeast, guys!

White Labs is pretty much unavailable except by special order in my part of the country. Special order it is, I suppose!

Or, perhaps...road trip to Grand Forks for yeast!!!
 
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.

Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?

Any info is greatly appreciated!

Right now I use White labs vials. I found it difficult and wasted the wyeast packs trying to save and keep it sterile
Depending on 1 gallon vs 2 I use 1/3 to 1/2 of a vial
I'll also go from a lighter "milder" brew to a darker "stronger" recipe and pitch on my yeast cake if I plan right esp if I do 1 gallon to 1.5 or so. the smaller batch acts like a large starter. can get several batches from 1 vial so it makes it economical. have thought about using the wyeast and transferring it to a vial that I cleaned and sterilized but have not needed to do this yet
Ben
 
Hmm, soak vanilla bean in distilled liquor during primary then add pod to secondary. Then add additional vanilla extract from liquor soaking to taste. That's probably what I would do, except I'm to cheap to buy vanilla beans...
 
Hoping to do this Saturday as my first BIAB 1.5 gallon batch. New to the BIAB but giving it a try. I am doing the Centennial Blonde recipe from here on the forums. Ive scaled it down to 1.5 gallons with beer tools online. Now i just need to get my water figured out. I hope i figured this right.

target size 1.5 gal
grains 2.4lbs
grain absorb 1.25 qt per pound
that gives me close to 3 qts for my grains
total now is 2.25
then my boil would be 3 gallons to account for boil lose

Is that right? Did it make sense? Any pointers on that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Hoping to do this Saturday as my first BIAB 1.5 gallon batch. New to the BIAB but giving it a try. I am doing the Centennial Blonde recipe from here on the forums. Ive scaled it down to 1.5 gallons with beer tools online. Now i just need to get my water figured out. I hope i figured this right.

target size 1.5 gal
grains 2.4lbs
grain absorb 1.25 qt per pound
that gives me close to 3 qts for my grains
total now is 2.25
then my boil would be 3 gallons to account for boil lose

Is that right? Did it make sense? Any pointers on that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

This should come in handy http://www.simplebiabcalculator.com/
 
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.

Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?

Any info is greatly appreciated!

I use the close able white labs tubes.

Almost always use a half tube in a batch


The other alternative, if you brew twice in a week, is to make a yeast starter and split it between two batches.
 
I did not aerate after the boil. Used half a pack of yeast.

You need to aerate by shaking the snot out of your wort before pitching the yeast.

Boiling for an hour takes all the o2 out of the water, and the yeast is aerobic.


I've been gone for a while... Have you got any action yet in the fermenter?
 
Btw... Hi guys, I get to stay home for a few days... Hoping to get a brew day in the weekend.

Also have three batches in fermenters ready to bottle, and two batches ready to open.

And no football I care about to watch on tv.
 
One thing... I got a copy of ray Daniels book called Designing Great Beers for Christmas. Was reading it on airplanes, in airports, and such.

It's a GREAT book, if you are interested in the science of home brewing, and the history of the styles.

Doesn't spend a single minute on technique, or equipment, or such. For that you need something else, like Palmer.

But what a great book for learning all the chemistry and math that goes into selecting ingredients and building your recipes, or in my case understanding recipes from other sources.

Very recommended.
 
dadshomebrewing said:
I've been gone for a while... Have you got any action yet in the fermenter?

Thanks for following up. I have wee little bubbles that rise to the surface and yeast particles moving about a little. No action in the airlock. This coming Monday will be the two week mark.
 
dadshomebrewing said:
Btw... Hi guys, I get to stay home for a few days... Hoping to get a brew day in the weekend.

Also have three batches in fermenters ready to bottle, and two batches ready to open.

And no football I care about to watch on tv.

Very cool to come home to something waiting in the fermenter.

dadshomebrewing said:
One thing... I got a copy of ray Daniels book called Designing Great Beers for Christmas. Was reading it on airplanes, in airports, and such.

It's a GREAT book, if you are interested in the science of home brewing, and the history of the styles.

Doesn't spend a single minute on technique, or equipment, or such. For that you need something else, like Palmer.

But what a great book for learning all the chemistry and math that goes into selecting ingredients and building your recipes, or in my case understanding recipes from other sources.

Very recommended.

Great book, I love it. It has really helped me understand different styles.
 
You need to aerate by shaking the snot out of your wort before pitching the yeast.
I did aerate before I pitched the yeast, but did not aerate after I added the boiled/cooled water on the third day after pitching the yeast.

This coming Monday marks the two week mark from pitching the yeast. Should I go ahead and bottle on that day? I do not have a hydrometer.
 
One thing... I got a copy of ray Daniels book called Designing Great Beers for Christmas. Was reading it on airplanes, in airports, and such.

It's a GREAT book, if you are interested in the science of home brewing, and the history of the styles.

Doesn't spend a single minute on technique, or equipment, or such. For that you need something else, like Palmer.

But what a great book for learning all the chemistry and math that goes into selecting ingredients and building your recipes, or in my case understanding recipes from other sources.

Very recommended.

It is a great book. I bought it when it first came out and I still refer to it now. I'm always amazed when I'll find some new information in it even though I used so many times...
 
I did aerate before I pitched the yeast, but did not aerate after I added the boiled/cooled water on the third day after pitching the yeast.

This coming Monday marks the two week mark from pitching the yeast. Should I go ahead and bottle on that day? I do not have a hydrometer.

If you have the patience, I'd wait at least another week. Let the yeast finish up their job. I've wanted 4 to 5 weeks before bottling and I have some of the cleanest, clearest beers. :rockin: Even though, I have a busy life so waiting is easy for me.:D
 
Wooohooo. I have a marathon brew scheduled for Saturday. 3 batches. ...maybe even 4

Damn Cheese, how do you clean your equipment so fast in between double, and even triple, batch days?

Do you just spray your e-rig out with a hose?
 
If you have the patience, I'd wait at least another week. Let the yeast finish up their job. I've wanted 4 to 5 weeks before bottling and I have some of the cleanest, clearest beers. :rockin: Even though, I have a busy life so waiting is easy for me.:D
I can do that. Thanks.
 
Damn Cheese, how do you clean your equipment so fast in between double, and even triple, batch days?

Do you just spray your e-rig out with a hose?

Spray it out. Back flush the plate chiller fill it up with water and recirculate drain water. Start all over again
 
cheesecake said:
Wooohooo. I have a marathon brew scheduled for Saturday. 3 batches. ...maybe even 4

Time to put the new toy to the test... Sounds like a fun day!
 
Hi All, I started brewing 5 gallon batches with a friend a few months ago, but we keep all the gear at his place (limited storage in my apt). Between that and the hassle of coordinating our schedules for brew days, it's seriously cramping my new found addiction. I've been making my way through this thread for about a week now (up to page 100 now) and it's been really helpful in planning my own small batch setup, first recipes, etc.

I already picked up what will become my bottling bucket from a local bakery (the lid provided doesn't seal at all :( ), have a lead on some other empties for primaries, and am pulling together the list of other small stuff I'll need to order (airlocks, siphon, etc).

Anyway, one question for now - I'm planning on simple grain bills for my first few brews (American Wheat, MO SMaSH, etc), but for future brews, are there sites that sell grains in increments < 1lb? I've used NB, but they only offer 1lb or 50lbs. I know the LHBS is an option, but the closest one is about an hour away.

Thanks for all of this consolidated info and I'll check back in once I'm caught up on the thread :D
 
BGBC said:
Hi All, I started brewing 5 gallon batches with a friend a few months ago, but we keep all the gear at his place (limited storage in my apt). Between that and the hassle of coordinating our schedules for brew days, it's seriously cramping my new found addiction. I've been making my way through this thread for about a week now (up to page 100 now) and it's been really helpful in planning my own small batch setup, first recipes, etc.

I already picked up what will become my bottling bucket from a local bakery (the lid provided doesn't seal at all :( ), have a lead on some other empties for primaries, and am pulling together the list of other small stuff I'll need to order (airlocks, siphon, etc).

Anyway, one question for now - I'm planning on simple grain bills for my first few brews (American Wheat, MO SMaSH, etc), but for future brews, are there sites that sell grains in increments < 1lb? I've used NB, but they only offer 1lb or 50lbs. I know the LHBS is an option, but the closest one is about an hour away.

Thanks for all of this consolidated info and I'll check back in once I'm caught up on the thread :D

Midwest does half pounds of everything, Rebel Brewer does some grain in pounds, other kinds they do by the ounce. I'm with you on the small portions of grains, hate buying a pound of chocolate when I need 2 ounces
 
Thanks for following up. I have wee little bubbles that rise to the surface and yeast particles moving about a little. No action in the airlock. This coming Monday will be the two week mark.

I would leave it until at least three weeks and hope for the best.

If you have, or can get, a hydrometer it would be good to use it to see if you are anywhere close to your target fg, and monitor it.
 
dadshomebrewing said:
I would leave it until at least three weeks and hope for the best.

If you have, or can get, a hydrometer it would be good to use it to see if you are anywhere close to your target fg, and monitor it.

That's good advice. I bottle most of my one gallon batches after seven to fourteen days, especially hoppier beers, but that's me
 
dadshomebrewing said:
I would leave it until at least three weeks and hope for the best.

If you have, or can get, a hydrometer it would be good to use it to see if you are anywhere close to your target fg, and monitor it.

bellmtbbq said:
That's good advice. I bottle most of my one gallon batches after seven to fourteen days, especially hoppier beers, but that's me

Assuming your hoppier beers are higher gravity beers ( not always true.. I know) your one week in primary may be pushing your luck, they may not be finished.
 
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