Why sanitary welds on keggles, etc?

I got to thinking the other day, everyone says sanitary welds are suggested, if not necessary, when welding couplers into kettles, keggles, etc. But if one were to just TIG the couplers into the HLT, MT, and BK, wouldnt it be ok, because in the end all the wort goes to the BK which boils the liquid for 60+ minutes, effectively killing all bad bacteria, right? Even at that point, the welds on the BK, if not sanitary welds, would also be sanitized from being exposed to those temps for that time. Fermenters, sure, sanitary welds I can imagine are a good idea.

Any reason then why I should pay for sanitary welds when i can just have a buddy TIG my couplers into keggles for a few beers?

Tks guys.

I'm no expert but I think just like you. If I were you I'd just grab your buddy and have him weld the keggle for you. Like you said boiling before fermenter. However if you are paranoid about bacteria and sanitation through the whole process then maybe go for sanitary welds.

sugared welds are going to be more likely to rust/corrode, plus they look like garbage. imo, if you're not gonna take the extra minute or two to back purge, might as well just stick/mig it

I think the reason for sanitary welds is because bacterial critters can hide in the smallest little nooks and crannies of regular welds. When those bacterial critters hide in these spots they are not very easy to kill and could funkify a fermenting beer (infection).

Sawdustguy said:

I think the reason for sanitary welds is because bacterial critters can hide in the smallest little nooks and crannies of regular welds. When those bacterial critters hide in these spots they are not very easy to kill and could funkify a fermenting beer (infection).

Click to expand...

you mean to say that the bacteria hiding in the crannies of the weld on a coupler that is exposed to the heat of the boiling wort (and if not the wort directly then at least the metal) would survive to be transferred then into the fermenter and ruin the batch? Would that happen? It seems like it's either exposed to wort and is sanitized, or is not exposed to wort, in which case i don't have to worry about it infecting the wort.

I'm not trying to argue, just trying to figure out the specific thought behind that. Thanks.

I would imagine that the steel in those areas are subjected to higher temps than the wort itself. I wish I had my welding friend back gas the welds on my kegs, but many batches down the line, no infections, it's just an ugly spot. Look up Solar Flux, it's supposed to substitute back gassing. Let us know how it turns out.

Seems to me that the only sanitary weld of a coupler to a keg would be welding from the inside, and I don't know anyone that does that. Maybe someone with more welding exp. could speak to that tho.

Nope, TIG will be awesome. Have your buddy hook it up and then send him my way

nbspindel said:

you mean to say that the bacteria hiding in the crannies of the weld on a coupler that is exposed to the heat of the boiling wort (and if not the wort directly then at least the metal) would survive to be transferred then into the fermenter and ruin the batch? Would that happen? It seems like it's either exposed to wort and is sanitized, or is not exposed to wort, in which case i don't have to worry about it infecting the wort.

I'm not trying to argue, just trying to figure out the specific thought behind that. Thanks.

Click to expand...

Some people are paranoid about some things (and I don't mean that in any sort of offensive way). This is one of them.


Some of us who do no-chill brewing pour our wort directly from the pot into an unsanitized vessel (in my case, cornies), and let it cool in there. If wort poured into a cornie can sanitize it, I wouldn't worry about a fitting thats directly exposed for the entirety of the boil.

I welded a coupling into a keg yesterday and did use the solar flux (not cheap btw $63 for a 1 lb can) I did this not because I was concerned about infection or anything of that nature but the corrosion aspect. I welded them with a MIG welder(yes with ss wire and no tri-gas just 75/25 and didnt notice much if any spatter) and followed the instruction on the solar flux website and it seemed to do the trick although I'll know more tonight when I get home after having brewed with it yesterday. Mine aren't the prettiest welds you will ever see but it held water just fine and are in no danger of breaking anytime before the second coming.

did you try removing the solar flux after you welded it? i've read that stuff is a bear to get off

ss wire brush seemed to get all that I could see off but really no telling if there was any on the bottom that I couldn't see.

nbspindel said:

I got to thinking the other day, everyone says sanitary welds are suggested, if not necessary, when welding couplers into kettles, keggles, etc. But if one were to just TIG the couplers into the HLT, MT, and BK, wouldnt it be ok, because in the end all the wort goes to the BK which boils the liquid for 60+ minutes, effectively killing all bad bacteria, right? Even at that point, the welds on the BK, if not sanitary welds, would also be sanitized from being exposed to those temps for that time. Fermenters, sure, sanitary welds I can imagine are a good idea.

Any reason then why I should pay for sanitary welds when i can just have a buddy TIG my couplers into keggles for a few beers?

Tks guys.

Click to expand...

Sanitary?? Uhmm.

When it comes to this term there are different standards that need to be adhered too. That is dependent on the industry that said weldment is for. For instance the dairy industry is very strict on what is allowable. Each industry has its own set of guidelines that dictate how big a hole or an inclusion can be in a weld, be it on the outside or the inside of a pipe or vessel, or what ever. When it comes to your transfer lines (that are after the kettle) or you fermenters, then it is essential that any weld be a sanitary weld....Is it "necessary" for anything before including your kettle.....NO. Its not. Lots of tasty beer can be made without a sanitary weld. Just remember that when someone is talking about a sanitary weld, the weld itself (inside and outside) has to follow the guidelines.

Now, there is a lot too be said about the simple task of purging the weld area. As mentioned by others, you will be far less prone to any corrosion and rusting by simply purging. By purging you can also keep the integrity of the SS, by making sure the weld area and the back side are properly covered with gas. Also, should the weld get hot enough to burn through the wall, then there will be a nice gas shield there to give you a nice bead on the inside where it happens to burn through. Just depends on how heavy the weldors foot is. Or hand if he is running a rail torch.

Which ever route you decide to take, remember. Don't skimp on the abrasives you decide to use on your project. Use a SS wire brush and make sure it has never been used on anything but SS. Use either a new sanding wheel (flapper wheel) or one that has never been used on anything but SS. Use an L rated filler rod (304/308L) or a higher number like 321. The carbon content is lower in those rods.

Good luck and Happy Brewing. Sorry for the book.

greenmonti,
thanks for the specifics.

why do you say to use a SS brush and sanding wheel that have only been used on SS? Would it otherwise impart carbons into/onto the keg that then get welded in somehow, or am i talking out of my arse?

to all,
a suggestion for weldors: go to a local university or community college that offers welding and try to barter with a student, TA, or the professor even for some of his time/expertise for some of your great brews. Worked for me!

nbspindel said:

Why do you say to use a SS brush and sanding wheel that have only been used on SS?

Click to expand...

If a brush or wheel has been used on regular steel, it can carry and then embed trace amounts of that steel into the SS your are working on, and it will rust.

Jester369 said:

If a brush or wheel has been used on regular steel, it can carry and then embed trace amounts of that steel into the SS your are working on, and it will rust.

Click to expand...

Right.

That goes for either before the weld or after the weld.