Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

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TxBigHops said:
Thanks! That's good to know that CBS fixed some issues and that the newer systems don't have the same problems. I think another issue the individual who reported under 70% might be having is less than a full capacity batch. HIs attachment indicated he was only putting 12 gallons into the fermenter with a half barrel system. With the smaller batch there's a considerable percentage of his mash liquid under the basket. Not sure if that could be impacting his efficiency issues.

Regarding higher ABV beers, what is the issue there? Too tall of a grain bed?
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yes If you are brewing say a "5 gallon batch" in the 20 gallon system and shooting for an 8% beer or something like that the grain bill would most likely be above the water. Not sure about a 10 gallon batch. Honestly I don't brew beers that big anymore. Also I always brew 7 gallons or better even if I am only brewing a five gallon batch just as a preventative but mostly I brew 10 gallons in which case I brew an 11 gallon batch and do so to account for losses for dumping tasting etc.
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
Here is my hop basket mod. I ordered the 500 micron from Bobby at Brew Hardware. He has 300, 500, and 800 micron.



I attached a 33lb super magnet to the basket with JB Weld.





I then used a Dremel tool to cut off the hangars on the basket.



Here it is installed in the kettle allowing the lid to seal completely. It is rock solid and actually a little difficult to remove. The magnets are incredible. I may add a little felt to the outside magnet to make removing it easier. Infinite height adjustment too!






Click to expand...
 
Nice -- and just what I need! Are these magnets still "holding up" well? The only ones I can find have a working temp. limit of 176F (e.g. DIYMAG Neodymium, 60x10x5 mm). (It is also specified as having a 33lb AND 12lb strength!?). Can you tell me where to find these RE magnets which will work at boil temps? Many thanks!
 
Gozie Boy said:
Nice -- and just what I need! Are these magnets still "holding up" well? The only ones I can find have a working temp. limit of 176F (e.g. DIYMAG Neodymium, 60x10x5 mm). (It is also specified as having a 33lb AND 12lb strength!?). Can you tell me where to find these RE magnets which will work at boil temps? Many thanks!
Click to expand...

Let me reply to my own query. You should NOT use the standard N45 magnets typically found on-line, which are only good to 176F. Instead, use the N42SH ("super high" temp) version, which are good up to 300F. About the same strength and price. Found mine at TotalElement, 2" x 1/2" x 1/2". A little larger (thickness) than alternatives, but quite a bit less expensive (when including shipping) than the 1/8th and 1/4 width magnets I could find, and should probably be a little easier to "twist off" the kettle than the flatter magnets.
 
Been a while since we had any posts in this thread! Still using my 2016 Nano Home, still pretty happy with it. But I have started monitoring the temperature deep inside the grain bed, and it is easy to see that it takes 10-15 minutes for the temperature in the grain to match what I see on the control panel. So, when I mash out, or do a protein rest... I am not hitting the temperature that I programmed.

Others have posted that the company switched to a more coarse mesh in the basket to let us pump faster, and thereby make faster temperature changes. Has anyone had their basked modified to the new mesh standard? Is this worth pursuing? I asked the company what the cost for a modification or new basket purchase would be, but if anyone has actually tried this I would like to know if it actually helped.
 
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I got sick and tired of trying to get decent flow during mash and more importantly getting it to drain with the damn basket. Wort levels and efficiencies were all over the place and dealing with 1bbl batches it's not like you can afford to keep doing batches quickly to figure it out. So I gave up on BIAB and I purchased a 1bbl Mash Tun from Spike.

I believe I had an OG basket with the really fine mesh. It just didn't work well. I decided I missed the easily dialed in and repeatable Mash Tun method so I went back to it.

Buying a new basket would have costed 1/2 at least of what going to the mash tun costs so....
 
Horseflesh said:
Been a while since we had any posts in this thread! Still using my 2016 Nano Home, still pretty happy with it. But I have started monitoring the temperature deep inside the grain bed, and it is easy to see that it takes 10-15 minutes for the temperature in the grain to match what I see on the control panel. So, when I mash out, or do a protein rest... I am not hitting the temperature that I programmed.

Others have posted that the company switched to a more coarse mesh in the basket to let us pump faster, and thereby make faster temperature changes. Has anyone had their basked modified to the new mesh standard? Is this worth pursuing? I asked the company what the cost for a modification or new basket purchase would be, but if anyone has actually tried this I would like to know if it actually helped.
Click to expand...
I switched out the basket for a Wilser bag. I had to get a custom false bottom but so far it has worked. I did get scorching on my last batch but it was my fault. It was a 10g batch heavy with wheat and rye with zero rice hulls. I kept an eye on the sight glass and started to doubt it was correct after watching slowly go down. I thought maybe the bag just clogged the opening. But the entire bottom was going dry after 45 minutes. To be fair, all I had to do was stop the pump, close the valve a bit, and then keep going. Past brews have been good with pump going near full speed. Clean up is much easier with the bag.
 
I talked with CBS about the basket update and it is good news. They will modify your basket for free, you just pay shipping. They will also help you ship on their commercial account which should save you some money over going to the UPS Store. The modification takes a couple of days.

I will probably do this as soon as I can figure out how to package my basket.
 
Horseflesh said:
I talked with CBS about the basket update and it is good news. They will modify your basket for free, you just pay shipping. They will also help you ship on their commercial account which should save you some money over going to the UPS Store. The modification takes a couple of days.

I will probably do this as soon as I can figure out how to package my basket.
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What's the update exactly?
 
I honestly don't have any problems, I stir it a couple of times early on to get it to temp then any temp change I stir it again etc but, maybe I have the coarse mesh...
 
I thought I didn't have problems until I stuck a probe into the mash. :) The temperature in there lags 10 minutes behind the system's probe in the liquid. Not a big deal for a 60 minute step, but it isn't great for a 10 minute step!
 
I have done this too, in fact many times. After dough in once min reaches temp if it drops at all I stir once it reaches temp again. Maybe once more. the bed is never more than a degree off or so. if I am step mashing I wait till it reaches temp and stir, then maybe stir again in 5 mins or so. it should be noted I don't do high abv beers though. stirring helps with this I guess it what I am saying. If you hasve a rims or something else you are gonna have lag as well no matter what.



1\
Horseflesh said:
I thought I didn't have problems until I stuck a probe into the mash. :) The temperature in there lags 10 minutes behind the system's probe in the liquid. Not a big deal for a 60 minute step, but it isn't great for a 10 minute step!
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Moved into a new house and have been constructing a new brewery. I still have a ways to go but have installed some things to see if they are where I want them to be etc.
67349341_1274307856062913_6160834662865305600_o.jpg
 
I just updated my PLC software to the newest version. There are 2 new "max output" settings in the PID settings, each of which comes set to 0%.

The release notes just say that these values "need to be set" without giving any other guidance.

I assume that this is the maximum power output allowed in the mash and overall, but I have no idea what wise values are. Before I contact the company, has anyone already figured this out?
 
Can anyone confirm the PID settings on their Nano Brewer?

This morning when I went to brew, my system wouldn't heat up... After some wasted time with the multimeter I found that the new Max Output settings had both reset themselves to 0%.

Now, I am a little worried my PID settings may have changed, too. This is what I have... Does it look like yours?

upload_2019-10-13_12-53-50.png
 
Horseflesh said:
Can anyone confirm the PID settings on their Nano Brewer?

This morning when I went to brew, my system wouldn't heat up... After some wasted time with the multimeter I found that the new Max Output settings had both reset themselves to 0%.

Now, I am a little worried my PID settings may have changed, too. This is what I have... Does it look like yours?

View attachment 648059
Click to expand...
I know its not any help but its when I see this kind of stuff that I am glad I have just a PID and switches. gotta admit it would be nice to program changes but not sure I want the headache
 
The touchscreen systemdoes have a couple of bugs. My brew day has been impacted twice I think. I'm still glad I have it.

FWIW, the values shown above appear to be correct because my temps were fine that day. It was only the max power values that got hosed.
 
Hey fellow Colorado Brewing users... If you have the more coarse mesh bottom, about 1000 microns... what mill gap are you using? Bonus points if you have figured out a more narrow gap for wheat malt, too.

Just got my own mill so I have begun the tuning process, would appreciate any intel you have.
 

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