Easy Stove-Top Pasteurizing - With Pics

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I have two questions for everyone. I'm sorry if this was mentioned on other comments already on here but dang this is a long (but very interesting) thread. The questions are:

  • Since I am heat pasteurizing the bottles are the end do I still need to use sodium metabisulfite before fermenting? I assume yes so that any wild yeast doesn't take over.
  • Can I use some non-pasteurized apple juice to back sweeten before I heat pasteurize the bottles?
Thanks!
 
I have two questions for everyone. I'm sorry if this was mentioned on other comments already on here but dang this is a long (but very interesting) thread. The questions are:

  • Since I am heat pasteurizing the bottles are the end do I still need to use sodium metabisulfite before fermenting? I assume yes so that any wild yeast doesn't take over.
  • Can I use some non-pasteurized apple juice to back sweeten before I heat pasteurize the bottles?
Thanks!

More experienced brewers are more than welcome to correct me, as I'm still new.

1st Question:
Yes. You can still. From my 1 year of light brewing I've done, I haven't used any meta on a brew (just cause I'm a cheap @$$) and have had no ill effects...yet. You're assessment is correct though. It's to kill off any wild yeasts 24hrs before pitching your Pedigree yeast strain.

2nd Question:
Ya. If you're a few days from pasteurizing, a lil fresh cider ain't gonna hurt anything.
 
Part II

If you have 48 bottles, pasteurizing them 6 or 7 at a time, for ten minutes each batch, you can see that this will take you a little time. I usually allot 1.5 hours for the whole process. The balance you are making here is a little bit of time for absolute, stunning simplicity and no chemical additions. During the downtime, I do other chores, like wash the dishes.

pasteurize_other_chores.jpg


After a ten minute soak in the hot water bath, remove the bottles. I use kitchen tongs to pick up the bottle and then transfer to my other hand with a kitchen mitt.

pasteurize_take_bottles_out.jpg


pasteurize_take_bottles_out_2.jpg


Put them on the kitchen counter to cool. I usually leave them out while I do the next batch, then return them to the case box. You can see in this picture, that I've got the next batch lined ready to go on the other end of the counter. Its just a simple little assembly line.

pasteurize_bottles_before_and_after.jpg


Turn the heat back on and raise the temp back up to 190. Repeat until all the bottles are done. Let them cool completely to room temperature before putting them in the fridge. Chill and enjoy!

25th_Anniversary_Cider.jpg


For what its worth, I ask friends at a local pub in Chicago to collect bottles for me, so end up with an eclectic collection.

pasteurize_all_done.jpg


I've not had a bottle break or crack, although I did have a cap come off in the hot water bath (with the lid of the pot on) once. Obviously, with carbonation pressure and hot temps, you want to be careful. Don't bang the bottles. Don't have heat applying to the pot while the bottles are in it. But, using common sense, this method is really very simple and uses no additives or chemicals.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.




Added October 26, 2010: Through pm's and other threads, I have been chatting with people who have been trying to pasteurize bottles that are over-carbonated - in other words, they waited too long to pasteurize. Please do not do this, it is extraordinarily dangerous. Head injuries, eye injuries, flying glass shards and burns from hot liquid are all possible outcomes. Use common sense: 1) do not pasteurize a batch if you haven't opened a bottle and seen that the carbonation level is right and 2) if the bottle is over-carbonated (gushing, foam everywhere) do not do pasteurize. Rather, open the bottles and release some of the pressure before your bottles explode.

If you are doing this for the first time, if you are learning how your yeast, your juice, your processes work, test your bottles early and often, to avoid over-carbonation.


Added July 2014: FYI, I've never had bottle break during pastuerizing at 190, but some have, and I've found through experience that using 180F works fine. Also, these days I generally let the cider ferment all the way to dry, then backsweeten and bottle, pastuerizing after a couple of days. I tend to ferment 3 gallons of juice and backsweeten with 1 gallon.
thanks for this i'll be trying it with my next fruity batch!
 
I don't understand why the cider needs to be in the bottles at all to pasteurize? I heated my cider up to about 160 degrees and then removed it from the fire let it cool and put it in bottles to sit and settle out.

After that I may add sugar and bottle to make a still sweet. Or for sparkling I will force carbonate after I let it cool, and either add sugar if I want a sparkiling sweet, or leave it to make it a sparkling dry cider.

Is there something wrong with what I am doing?
I believe the issue is sanitization. It's VERY hard to make sure everything is perfectly sanitized if you're dealing with open containers. People pasteurize in bottles because 1) they want some level of carbonation to build up, and 2) there's very little chance of a closed bottle becoming infected after pasteurization. What you're doing isn't wrong, just be aware that it isn't always a 100% solution.
 
Question I was asking to myself.
As we don't really want to pasteurise but only to stop yeast of eating sugar.
Just reaching the temparature that kills the yeast wouldn't be enough? Maybe it fit the hypothesis that 1PU is enough for cider.
I will give it a try and warm some bottle of cider (with added sugar) to 55C° max before take it out. It should give 1PU. For security, I will probably aim 56-57°C but no more.

Edit : I see that saccharo are dying at 60°C so I will raise the temp until 60° instaed of stop at 57°C. It will give at least 5PU, probably more (depend of the time the temparature takes to rise and fall).
 
Last edited:
Question I was asking to myself.
As we don't really want to pasteurise but only to stop yeast of eating sugar.
Just reaching the temparature that kills the yeast wouldn't be enough? Maybe it fit the hypothesis that 1PU is enough for cider.
I will give it a try and warm some bottle of cider (with added sugar) to 55C° max before take it out. It should give 1PU. For security, I will probably aim 56-57°C but no more.

Edit : I see that saccharo are dying at 60°C so I will raise the temp until 60° instaed of stop at 57°C. It will give at least 5PU, probably more (depend of the time the temparature takes to rise and fall).
See this thread:
Heat Pasteurizing and Carbonation... more stuff!

@Chalkyt
 
Part II

If you have 48 bottles, pasteurizing them 6 or 7 at a time, for ten minutes each batch, you can see that this will take you a little time. I usually allot 1.5 hours for the whole process. The balance you are making here is a little bit of time for absolute, stunning simplicity and no chemical additions. During the downtime, I do other chores, like wash the dishes.

pasteurize_other_chores.jpg


After a ten minute soak in the hot water bath, remove the bottles. I use kitchen tongs to pick up the bottle and then transfer to my other hand with a kitchen mitt.

pasteurize_take_bottles_out.jpg


pasteurize_take_bottles_out_2.jpg


Put them on the kitchen counter to cool. I usually leave them out while I do the next batch, then return them to the case box. You can see in this picture, that I've got the next batch lined ready to go on the other end of the counter. Its just a simple little assembly line.

pasteurize_bottles_before_and_after.jpg


Turn the heat back on and raise the temp back up to 190. Repeat until all the bottles are done. Let them cool completely to room temperature before putting them in the fridge. Chill and enjoy!

25th_Anniversary_Cider.jpg


For what its worth, I ask friends at a local pub in Chicago to collect bottles for me, so end up with an eclectic collection.

pasteurize_all_done.jpg


I've not had a bottle break or crack, although I did have a cap come off in the hot water bath (with the lid of the pot on) once. Obviously, with carbonation pressure and hot temps, you want to be careful. Don't bang the bottles. Don't have heat applying to the pot while the bottles are in it. But, using common sense, this method is really very simple and uses no additives or chemicals.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.




Added October 26, 2010: Through pm's and other threads, I have been chatting with people who have been trying to pasteurize bottles that are over-carbonated - in other words, they waited too long to pasteurize. Please do not do this, it is extraordinarily dangerous. Head injuries, eye injuries, flying glass shards and burns from hot liquid are all possible outcomes. Use common sense: 1) do not pasteurize a batch if you haven't opened a bottle and seen that the carbonation level is right and 2) if the bottle is over-carbonated (gushing, foam everywhere) do not do pasteurize. Rather, open the bottles and release some of the pressure before your bottles explode.

If you are doing this for the first time, if you are learning how your yeast, your juice, your processes work, test your bottles early and often, to avoid over-carbonation.


Added July 2014: FYI, I've never had bottle break during pastuerizing at 190, but some have, and I've found through experience that using 180F works fine. Also, these days I generally let the cider ferment all the way to dry, then backsweeten and bottle, pastuerizing after a couple of days. I tend to ferment 3 gallons of juice and backsweeten with 1 gallon.
Re: "I generally let the cider ferment all the way to dry"

Suppose you get your cider all the way down to SG 0.988. In the past, I've added 1/2 teaspoon of sugar to each 22 oz bottle, and the carbonation was good after 7-10 days. Two questions..

Will C02 continue to build up if there is no sugar left to ferment? In other words, is it necessary to pasteurize if you have reached ultimate dryness?

In a 3 gallon carboy batch, if you get down to 0.988 and the batch sits for another month or so, will there be any yeast left to carbonate the added sugar to the bottle?
 
@RileyOG The post to which you refer is more than 10 years old, and the author hasn't been seen on HBT since August 2021. In answer to your questions:
Suppose you get your cider all the way down to SG 0.988. In the past, I've added 1/2 teaspoon of sugar to each 22 oz bottle, and the carbonation was good after 7-10 days. Two questions..

Will C02 continue to build up if there is no sugar left to ferment? In other words, is it necessary to pasteurize if you have reached ultimate dryness?
No. Once the sugar is gone, the yeast won't produce any more CO2.
In a 3 gallon carboy batch, if you get down to 0.988 and the batch sits for another month or so, will there be any yeast left to carbonate the added sugar to the bottle?
Yes. I have added priming sugar to cider that has bulk aged for 6 months, and it has still carbonated in the bottles. If you have aged beyond 6 months, it might be a good idea to add a little new yeast.
 
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