Coopers kits

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A lot of old school shop owners will tell you to only make 5 US gallons out of the kits. There is absolutely no benefit in doing this. Why lose 10 beers. If you want more alcohol add more malt. If you want more hops boil an extra ounce in a quart of water for an hour and add it to the beer.

Forrest
 
Cooper's kits are only $13 cdn at grocery stores around here but are nearly $20 us at every lhbs store I see and online.
 
DOGBOY said:
Coopers is brewed in Australia,which was a colony of Englang ,which uses imperial gallons like Canada...
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I don't think we (Canadians) use imperial gallons. Before learning to brew and trying to decipher how much liquid to add, I'd never even heard of imperial or us gallons (only 'gallon')!
Most kits here are labeled in terms of liters...although it's been a while since I've read the label of a Cooper's kit for a while. But as far as I remember they make 23 L.
 
gallons, litres, US, Imperial, etc., etc.!!!!!!!!!!
it's like the time of day--DST,EST, etc.
i don't give a big rat's @$$--just leave it one way or t'other, and bigbro gubmint cease butting in!
 
I have a batch of the Sparkling Ale maturing in the bottle right now. I made it per the directions. There was a sale on it at makebeer.net. I'm on their mailing list. All kinds of goodies come my way.
 
My first beer that I ever made was a Coppers Kit, I believe it was an ale kit, can't remember off hand, but what I do remember is that it tasted outstanding! Made me want to make more, and yea here I am here lol.

Anyways, I do remember adding more liquid malt extract to my brew, and the final hydrometer reading was around 6.5%. Highly recommend their kits!
 
Going to try one of these. Someone school me. If I'm going to make 5 gallons, do I need to add DME still? Do I need to boil this stuff like we do with say a Brewers Best kit? I'm not a hop head and these being pre-hopped, I shouldn't have to add more hops, correct? Sorry for the ignorance, but haven't had a lot of time to research this and I want to try another "type" of extracts. Thanks.
 
Ol' Grog said:
Going to try one of these. Someone school me. If I'm going to make 5 gallons, do I need to add DME still? Do I need to boil this stuff like we do with say a Brewers Best kit? I'm not a hop head and these being pre-hopped, I shouldn't have to add more hops, correct? Sorry for the ignorance, but haven't had a lot of time to research this and I want to try another "type" of extracts. Thanks.
Click to expand...


You'll need to add more fermentables. Even if you go for five gallons, instead of the full six, you're still going to be a little short. For a six gallon batch I normally add an additional pound each of dextrose and light DME and 1/4 pound of malto dextrin. I've done this with both the Mexican Cerveza and the Sparkling Ale. You can also add LME or even a second Coopers can. I boil the additions for about ten minutes and then I take it off the heat and add the can of LME.

I wouldn't say either of the two I've made have been very hoppy. So, if you're not big into hops, I think you'll be fine.
 
Ol' Grog said:
Going to try one of these. Someone school me. If I'm going to make 5 gallons, do I need to add DME still? Do I need to boil this stuff like we do with say a Brewers Best kit? I'm not a hop head and these being pre-hopped, I shouldn't have to add more hops, correct? Sorry for the ignorance, but haven't had a lot of time to research this and I want to try another "type" of extracts. Thanks.
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Try the stout kit made up to 6 US gallons with a kilo of medium DME, it'll make a lovely stout.
Just boil the additions, not the main kit.
 
Shooter said:
You'll need to add more fermentables. Even if you go for five gallons, instead of the full six, you're still going to be a little short. For a six gallon batch I normally add an additional pound each of dextrose and light DME and 1/4 pound of malto dextrin. I've done this with both the Mexican Cerveza and the Sparkling Ale. You can also add LME or even a second Coopers can. I boil the additions for about ten minutes and then I take it off the heat and add the can of LME.

I wouldn't say either of the two I've made have been very hoppy. So, if you're not big into hops, I think you'll be fine.
Click to expand...


Sorry about all the questions.

okay I'm brand new to this and think I want to use coopers for my first time.

For a 6 gal batch your saying i'll need: (to make a better beer)
2# LDE
2# Dextrose
1/4 # malto dextrin
and 5 oz corn sugar for priming.

am I missing anything?

and then just make it the way that the can says even with the added stuff?

does this go for every type of coopers can? (think I'm going to make the wheat one first)

Thanks for the help! :mug:
 
I ordered the "extra" pack from AHS with the Coopers kit. That was about 6 weeks ago. Haven't tried it, it's on deck. But, it smelled and looked good when I racked it. I mean, nothing out of the ordinary from doing full extracts, partials or even late additions. It was a bit darker than you'd get with late additions, but that is understandable.
 
JDC03270 said:
Sorry about all the questions.

okay I'm brand new to this and think I want to use coopers for my first time.

For a 6 gal batch your saying i'll need: (to make a better beer)
2# LDE
2# Dextrose
1/4 # malto dextrin
and 5 oz corn sugar for priming.

am I missing anything?

and then just make it the way that the can says even with the added stuff?

does this go for every type of coopers can? (think I'm going to make the wheat one first)

Thanks for the help! :mug:
Click to expand...

For one can it is 1 pound dme and 1 pound of corn sugar 1/4 pound of Malto Dextrin (optional but improves the beer)
and priming sugar.
 
Austinhomebrew said:
For one can it is 1 pound dme and 1 pound of corn sugar 1/4 pound of Malto Dextrin (optional but improves the beer)
and priming sugar.
Click to expand...


Yep, exactly what I do for six gallons. If you order from Austin Homebrew Supply it's easy, because you can just order their additional fermentables pack. Another thought, I normally just use the included Coopers yeast on these kits. It's only a small 7g packet for a full six gallons of beer. I've never had an issue when I rehydrate, but yeast fuel might not be a bad addition.
 
I've been using Coopers since my re-start of HB. I think they make very good beer, although someday when I go All Grain I might look back and laugh.

I added 3# Light DME (Munton's) to their IPA can and it was fabulous and easy. Their stout is also great. I will move on because I want to start "traditional" extract brewing with hops, liquid yeast and crystal malt etc., but no complaints from this old newbie.
 
jturie said:
I've been using Coopers since my re-start of HB. I think they make very good beer, although someday when I go All Grain I might look back and laugh.

I added 3# Light DME (Munton's) to their IPA can and it was fabulous and easy. Their stout is also great. I will move on because I want to start "traditional" extract brewing with hops, liquid yeast and crystal malt etc., but no complaints from this old newbie.
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Pfft, I certainly wouldn't worry about it. I've started moving slowly into mashing, but I still brew the occasional Coopers kit because I enjoy it and I get beer out of the process. It's not the best beer, but every time I cook, I don't always make steak, sometimes I eat ramen noodles and, you know what, they're damned good!

I don't know, some people need to defend their AG habit like they need you to see their shiny new truck. Compensating for anything?!?!? :mug:
 
got a couple of cans (muntons) and the LHBS said 1 lb of DME plus the can for a 3 gallon batch would give a good brew. Just bottled Muntons Irish stout this way and the flat beer tasted very good. the Mountmellier brown ale had a very molasses taste so the black treacle was probably set up to be more diluted but as it ages it is mellowing and is becoming very good. anyone else do this?
 
A couple of the coopers kit's I've had good luck with are:
  • Australian Pale Ale -- 3rd batch I'd ever brewed and I still used corn sugar on this one -- turned out great
  • Bavarian Lager (now European Lager): added a couple lbs of DME and 1/2 oz of hops; turned out great also.
Actually, I just brewed another one of the European Lager Kits. I bought it when a LHBS was closing and I had to use a gift certificate.
For this one, I added a 3# can of Munich LME, and 1/4 oz Hallertau hops, 1/4 oz of German Tradition hops (left over from a Kolsch kit due to reducing hops for a late extract addition). I also used Safeale S-04 yeast. It's approaching 2 weeks in primary and I'm eager to see how this one turns out.
 
I don't believe the yeasts are all the same. Here's a link to what they are thought to be for each kit http://homebrewandbeer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=571

The lager yeast is thought to be saflager S189, which is very temp tollerant, and not nearly as sulferous during fermentation. This makes sense to me as I have a Coopers Pilsner bubbling away in my bedroom @ about 14C and it does smell a touch sulferous, ales do not smell at all like this, but it is only noticable right off the airlock (for the most part).

And some are said to have a mix of ale and lager yeast so you get dif properties depending on your fermenting temps.

I think they all do best @ 18C or less... they make less esters and need less time to condition.

A note on Muntons!! The regular Muntons kit yeast is not meant for all extract brewing... it needs a healthy dose of dex or it will power out. I've had this happen and won't use their kit yeast ever again as I don't like the flavour of dex.
 
I used to think that Coopers just included a 7g pack of their standard yeast under the lid, but I have recently noticed that there is a different product code that seems to indicate they are different. For example, the Mexican Cerveza has an INT code which seems to suggest it is some sort of international blend.
 
I have done 4 Muntons kits recently and I love them - however I didn't brew any of the 4 as they suggested in the instructions with ingredients. All for kits (2 Stouts, 1, Draught, 1 Nut Brown Ale) I used DME instead of corn sugar.
All 5 Gallon Batches -
The Draught was the least changed as I only added an apricot extract to the secondary.
1 Stout I did addition of cocoa powder and coffee in secondary, as well as Belgian Dark candi sugar added with the dme.(also boiled 1lb Chocolate Malt and 1/2lb of Black Patent in before adding the DME and Candi Sugar)
1 Stout I did addition of cocoa powder and coffee in boil of dme as well as in secondary
Nut Brown ale had the addition of honey put in with the dme in primary.

The Honey Nut is about to be bottled but tastes great so far. The other three tasted great and received compliments from several homebrewers as well as BMC drinkers.
 
As for the Cooper's kit yeasts, I posted this on another topic. I got it from an Aussie forum:

To summarise some previous posts on what yeast comes with what Cooper's brew:
<ul><li>The International Series Australian Pale Ale and the Premium Selection Sparkling Ale, Australian Bitter, Traditional Draught and Heritage Lager come with a blend of lager and ale yeasts.

<li>The Original Series (Lager, Real Ale, Draught, Bitter, Stout and Dark Ale) are all ale yeasts.
<li>International Series Canadian Blonde is ale.
<li>International Series Bavarian Lager and Brewmaster Selection Pilsener are Saflager (P is stamped next to useby date).
<li>Brewmaster Selection Wheat Beer is a wheat beer yeast (W next to useby date).
<li>Brewmaster Selection Nut Brown Ale is (was, as it's now discontinued) an ale yeast (but different to the Original Series yeast).
<li>Brewmaster Selection India Pale Ale is an ale yeast, but I'm not sure what type.
<li>The Irish Stout comes with an ale yeast.
<li>The International Series Mexican Cerveza is an ale/lager blend
</ul>


While on the topic, I know that many brewers might look down on kit brews. Over the last 11 years that I've been brewing, I've done kits, extract with grains, all-grain....and have made some great beers and some stinkers with all methods. But right now, with time at a premium for me, modifying a Cooper's kit with some specialty grains, a good yeast, and some hops, I can make a beer that tastes great and is better than anything I can buy. All in about an hour. And after all, isn't that what we're all trying for? :mug:
 
rocketcrab said:
As for the Cooper's kit yeasts, I posted this on another topic. I got it from an Aussie forum:

To summarise some previous posts on what yeast comes with what Cooper's brew:
<ul><li>The International Series Australian Pale Ale and the Premium Selection Sparkling Ale, Australian Bitter, Traditional Draught and Heritage Lager come with a blend of lager and ale yeasts.

<li>The Original Series (Lager, Real Ale, Draught, Bitter, Stout and Dark Ale) are all ale yeasts.
<li>International Series Canadian Blonde is ale.
<li>International Series Bavarian Lager and Brewmaster Selection Pilsener are Saflager (P is stamped next to useby date).
<li>Brewmaster Selection Wheat Beer is a wheat beer yeast (W next to useby date).
<li>Brewmaster Selection Nut Brown Ale is (was, as it's now discontinued) an ale yeast (but different to the Original Series yeast).
<li>Brewmaster Selection India Pale Ale is an ale yeast, but I'm not sure what type.
<li>The Irish Stout comes with an ale yeast.
<li>The International Series Mexican Cerveza is an ale/lager blend
</ul>


While on the topic, I know that many brewers might look down on kit brews. Over the last 11 years that I've been brewing, I've done kits, extract with grains, all-grain....and have made some great beers and some stinkers with all methods. But right now, with time at a premium for me, modifying a Cooper's kit with some specialty grains, a good yeast, and some hops, I can make a beer that tastes great and is better than anything I can buy. All in about an hour. And after all, isn't that what we're all trying for? :mug:
Click to expand...

This is some good info here. I'm trying the Dark Ale right now and am fermenting at ale temps. I've made the Mexican Cerveza before with success. I see that it's a lager/ale blend. I have another can of it to brew in the next few months I may try to shoot for the low end of the ale, but high end of the lager temperature range on my next try.

I'm with you, I like the Coopers products in general. They seem popular enough that you can find pretty fresh cans of extract. I also still make Mr. Beer kits. So far I've only worked my way up as far as partial mashing, but plan an all grain brew in the near future. It's just a matter of what I have time or am in the mood to tackle that brew day. There are days when it's a bit much to haul out the burner, propane tank, the steeping pot and the brew kettle. Sometimes I just want to do a quick partial boil on the stove and Coopers is great for that. As you note, I've made some good and bad beers and it's not necessarily dependent on the type of kit I started with.
 
jbanta said:
I have done 4 Muntons kits recently and I love them - however I didn't brew any of the 4 as they suggested in the instructions with ingredients. All for kits (2 Stouts, 1, Draught, 1 Nut Brown Ale) I used DME instead of corn sugar.
All 5 Gallon Batches -
The Draught was the least changed as I only added an apricot extract to the secondary.
1 Stout I did addition of cocoa powder and coffee in secondary, as well as candi sugar added with the dme.
1 Stout I did addition of cocoa powder and coffee in boil of dme as well as in secondary
Nut Brown ale had the addition of honey put in with the dme in primary.

The Honey Nut is about to be bottled but tastes great so far. The other three tasted great and received compliments from several homebrewers as well as BMC drinkers.
Click to expand...


They all sound very tasty! :mug:
 
Austinhomebrew said:
For one can it is 1 pound dme and 1 pound of corn sugar 1/4 pound of Malto Dextrin (optional but improves the beer)
and priming sugar.
Click to expand...


Hi all, sorry for bringing up an old thread but I am very new to home brewing:confused:

I plan on doing a Coopers Canadian Blonde lager next and want to improve on the standard kit by adding the above quoted ingrediants, my question is are the above ingrediants used aswell as coopers brew enhancer, or instead of the brew enhancer?:confused:

Thanks in advance

:mug:
 
jay7792 said:
Hi all, sorry for bringing up an old thread but I am very new to home brewing:confused:

I plan on doing a Coopers Canadian Blonde lager next and want to improve on the standard kit by adding the above quoted ingrediants, my question is are the above ingrediants used aswell as coopers brew enhancer, or instead of the brew enhancer?:confused:

Thanks in advance

:mug:
Click to expand...


They would be used instead of, they are actually vert close to being a home made brew enhancer. Brew enhancers contain DME and Glucose and I think sometimes maltodextrin for the body and mouthfeel.
 
In general the less sugar and the more dme u can use the better. You may want to add a second yeast packet if you replace all the sugar though. Some yeast nutrient is also a good idea either way.

And if you still find you're getting a "kit taste" you'll likely want to get some grain in there, you can make a very good beer with a partial mash.

Have fun brewing!
 
I read most of this thread, all 8 pages...one interesting thing I would add.
I used to brew Muntons Connisuers series of kits. I always added 1-3 lbs of DME and avoided sugar like the plague. I also boiled the whole thing for close to 60 minutes. I have since backed off of boiling kits for such a long time as the LME tends to carmalize easy and it makes just as good a beer IMO.
The thing that I remember is that the guy at the LHBS always gave me a packet of Coopers gold pack yeast because the Muntons pack would not handle the added fermentables. I thought this strange because Muntons was a fairly reputable brand I thought.
I have also brewed several Coopers kits and found the wheat and ales DO seem to taste a lot alike. The Muntons wheat however turned out really good....darker, crisp and heavy head, which I like in a wheat.
All in all, if you are brewing extracts you can't beat Coopers for the price, and as a base to build on, they lend well to personal innovation, which we all are familar with.;)
 
First off,I want clarify that the Cooper's cans make 5 imperial gallons,which at 23L,equals 6.072 US Standard gallons. Keep that in mind when brewing/adjusting them.
I've been mixing cooper's cans with Munton's plain DME's since my 2nd brew. I came up with the formula of 1 Cooper's can,1) 3lb bag plain Munton's DME,& minimum of 2oz hops per batch. I brew them to 6 US gallons generally,& get from 5.3-5.9%. I used that formula with 6oz of hops in my BuckIPA,& it came out to 57c per bottle.
I think combining the cooper's cans with DME & hops to def be a good formula for some very good ales. But not all of the series cans use their ale yeast. That depends on the series & the beer involved.
But I haven't followed the Cooper's directions since my 2nd brew. Check out my recipes for ideas & my way of using them.
 
I've never followed the directions, just mixed and matched "acknowledged truths of home brewing" I've found on here. I'm thinking I might try to make something per the recipe to see what the difference is.

If I'm just making a session beer, why go through the 3 weeks + 3 weeks scenario if I get something decent from 5-10 days +3 weeks, following what the hydro tells me of course.
 
It seems to depend on the gravity & color of the malts used as to how long it'll take to complete successfully. Lighter color & lower gravity tend to finish quicker. Darker colored ales take a bit longer to finish,& carb/condition. Fridge time goes up as well,ime.
 

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