Questions on Dry Hopping

So I just finished a batch a week ago of an IPA(well at least I tried for that)

My recipe was
7 lbs light DME
1/2 lb Crystal Malt
1/2 lb Roasted Barley
3 oz Cascade hops...sort of continuously hopped.

I did a 60 minute boil and added about a 1/4 oz every 5 minutes. When I tasted it, it tasted really good but I was thinking about trying dry hopping for the first time. I think its just about done in the Primary probably going to leave it for another few days, maybe a week. I'll move it to a secondary if I decide to Dry Hop.

My questions are, how does Dry hopping work, what does it do for the flavor? Do I have to boil them or sanitize them some how?

Additionally, if I do decide to dry hop, I don't know what hops would go well with Cascade or if I should just use more cascade?

Any thoughts will help, Thanks!

Dry hopping is mainly for aroma, but can contribute some additional flavor, they do not need to be sanitized.

Cascade is the generic hop choice for IPA and APA's. If you want a different dry-hop addition you can try Amarillo, Anthem, New Zealand Cascade, maybe Palisade to name a few.

I will be dry hopping some Cascade and Amarillo together in an APA about 2 weeks from now.

My first dry hop was brewed on Fathers Day. It is a SNPA. I am going to dry hop it with .5 oz of cascade in two weeks right in the primary.

boydak said:

My first dry hop was brewed on Fathers Day. It is a SNPA. I am going to dry hop it with .5 oz of cascade in two weeks right in the primary.

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I read something exactly like this, here's the link Dry Hopping Instructions - Jasper's Home Brew & Winemaking with some different options.

I used the last option the same as you are going to although i also read somewhere else that dry hopping for 7-10 days this way is sufficient as after this all the aroma goes into the air rather than whatever it is you're brewing.

I left it for 10 days and whilst i'm not really in a situation yet where i can comment on taste they definitely add to the aroma.

I used whole hops by the way.

The main point is aroma, and dryhopping gives a more aromatic result than flameout additions alone. I add a generous flame out addition, but DH, too.

I use grain socks like those that are used for one use steeping and throw in a SS sanke ball for weight. I sanitize the bag with starsan, hold it open and shove an ounce of whole hops in it, and tie a knot in the end of the sock.

Some tie a fish line lanyard to the sack and pull it out with that after a week to ten days. Leaving it in makes for a grassy flavor after about 2 weeks.

I dry hop in my secondary to add some flavor and aroma to my Pale Ale. I just bottled it last night and it smelled AWESOME.

To dry hop, just add the pellets straight to the secondary, no sanitizing, no hop back. They will form a green film on top of the beer and in about 7-10 days they will settle out and you can bottle.

I listened to the Brew Strong podcast on dry hopping with Jamil and John Palmer and they mention that 7-10 days is a good time frame to dry hop for and they mentioned a good amount to use was 2 oz for a Pale Ale and for an IPA, to use 4 oz. These were for 5 gallon batches, so you can scale up or down as needed

chode720 said:

I dry hop in my secondary to add some flavor and aroma to my Pale Ale. I just bottled it last night and it smelled AWESOME.

To dry hop, just add the pellets straight to the secondary, no sanitizing, no hop back. They will form a green film on top of the beer and in about 7-10 days they will settle out and you can bottle.

I listened to the Brew Strong podcast on dry hopping with Jamil and John Palmer and they mention that 7-10 days is a good time frame to dry hop for and they mentioned a good amount to use was 2 oz for a Pale Ale and for an IPA, to use 4 oz. These were for 5 gallon batches, so you can scale up or down as needed

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Don't want to hijack the thread but what hops did you use for your pale ale chode720?

I'm doing an australian pale ale next which was excellent last time i made it but everything can be improved upon i think.

Thanks everybody for the replies. I'm looking forward to how this will turn out.

Col224 said:

So I just finished a batch a week ago of an IPA(well at least I tried for that)

My questions are, how does Dry hopping work, what does it do for the flavor? Do I have to boil them or sanitize them some how?

Click to expand...

I recently dry hopped my IPA with 1oz. Centennial. I bottled it about 5 days ago and when I tasted a sample it was awesome! Check out these two links. I used them to help me understand and execute the process. Maybe you will find them useful as well.

cheers
axr

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/dry-hopping-how-clarify-57494/

Brew Your Own: The How-To Homebrew Beer Magazine - Dry Hopping: Techniques -

ianac1 said:

I read something exactly like this, here's the link Dry Hopping Instructions - Jasper's Home Brew & Winemaking with some different options.

I used the last option the same as you are going to although i also read somewhere else that dry hopping for 7-10 days this way is sufficient as after this all the aroma goes into the air rather than whatever it is you're brewing.

I left it for 10 days and whilst i'm not really in a situation yet where i can comment on taste they definitely add to the aroma.

I used whole hops by the way.

Click to expand...

* For brewers who don't have a secondary glass carboy or who are lazy or who simply relish in cheating the system, then dry hop right in the primary. After five or so days when most of the fermentation is complete, open your fermenter, dump in the dry hops and close up the fermenter again. Then let the beer sit for the requisite two weeks and then proceed to bottling

So I am Lazy or wanting to cheat or do I just get clearer better tasting beer by using 3 weeks in the primary?

boydak said:

* For brewers who don't have a secondary glass carboy or who are lazy or who simply relish in cheating the system, then dry hop right in the primary. After five or so days when most of the fermentation is complete, open your fermenter, dump in the dry hops and close up the fermenter again. Then let the beer sit for the requisite two weeks and then proceed to bottling

So I am Lazy or wanting to cheat or do I just get clearer better tasting beer by using 3 weeks in the primary?

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Maybe we are lazy, but it works so don't see a problem with it.

I done exactly the same, opened the fermenter and threw the hops in (no bag).

I've got the thing (don't know the name of it) on the end of my syphon which keeps it off the bottom of the bucket and above the sediment which probably helped with the hops too as i got 40 bottles with no bits of hop leaves in them at all.

I brewed an IPA 10 days ago and hope to be racking into secondary tonight and dry hopping with Amarillo and Simcoe for 10 days. This is my first time dry hopping and looking forward to it.

I have a small experimental batch of pale ale that I threw together a couple of weeks ago which I then separated into four different vessels and am now dry hopping using different hops for each vessel. I'm doing Centennial, Columbus, Willamette, and U.S. Golding for my dry hops and plan to do a tasting of the four in a month or so.

If leaf matter or pellet sludge becomes an issue, check this out: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/question-whole-hops-fermenter-123597/ post #6

I think it is a clever yet simple filtration system. Prost to Edwort...again!

weirdboy said:

I have a small experimental batch of pale ale that I threw together a couple of weeks ago which I then separated into four different vessels and am now dry hopping using different hops for each vessel. I'm doing Centennial, Columbus, Willamette, and U.S. Golding for my dry hops and plan to do a tasting of the four in a month or so.

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I do this same type of thing at the end of my hop growing season to teste the AAU levels. I don't really get an accurate reading or anything, but it helps to know how bitter they are.

As for my recent IIPA, I just dumped two oz. of cascade right into the primary after fermentation was done. It filtered out without any problems and I didn't have to worry about contaminating the beer with one of those grain bags.

Hi.....,

I think hops are cultivated flowers used for preservative and flavoring characteristics in beer. The bitterness of the hop is used to balance the sweetness of the malt, and the essential oils add a flavor/aroma which cannot be achieved by using any other plant. The hop plant is a perennial spiraling vine which will grow in almost any climate given enough water and sunlight. It can climb either string or poles and can reach heights of 40 feet. The flowers are usually dried before use.

I think this would be use full to you.