Brutus Build Questions

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mmurray

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Messages
325
Reaction score
10
Location
Internet
I'm currently buying parts for my brutus and have run into a few problems locating parts... well... at least for a good price that is.

Can I get some recomendations for 110v switches for a main switch and 2 pump switches?

I am going with the High Pressure 10" Banjo burners from Midwest Homebrew supply. My plan is to have the LPG manifold (not using the frame tube as manifold) presurized to 30psi with a the 30psi regulator on the tank. I figure that should allow for all 3 burners to have enough gas if they were all lit at the same time. So my question is, should I have a needle valve inline for fine tuning of the flame out of the burner or is full bore the best way to go? I don't want to just dump and wast fuel... I'd rather have a nice blue flame and be as efficent as possible, which is why I was thinking a needle valve could help choke off some of that 30psi so it's not just a jet burner per se.
Also, do I need to spend $30 for a needle valve when a $5 ball valve will do the same thing? Will a ball valve be good enough? which leads me to the pilot light... same question... Needle Valve or Ball valve for the same reason as before?

My brother is telling me I need to have my 110v power in a sealed box and have all my controls 24vDC for safety... which would mean relays, contactors etc. Is this really necessary or just over protection? Again... I wouldn't really have a problem with that, but it's hard to find 24v temp controlers for a good price! Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help, Cheers!
 
Manifold design:
P1040543.jpg

P1040544.jpg

P1040545.jpg

P1040546.jpg

photo.php


Switches:
Automation Direct
Pioneer Breaker

Don't use the switches sold by Auber Instruments (they're crap)

Use a GFCI outlet or breaker and you'll be fine using 120 VAC
Needle valves and gas rate ball valves are both about $9 shipped

You don't need $30 needle valves unless you're doing something like this
 
One more thing: you will find that a 35 psi regulator is overkill and adjusting the regulator and air shutters is the key to a clean flame. The needle valve should provide you with proper flame height.
 
I just saw your post in the manifold post...

Where did you get those needle valves for $9? I was looking on ebay and McMassterCarr and the best I could find was in the $20 range. But the ones I was looking at were 3/8"NPT needle valves.

Any guidance is much appreciated as I seriously only want to do this once!
 
Back
Top