FAQ: Aluminum Pots for Boil Kettles?

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No, you are not badgering. I've been wanting to discuss this with someone. I have a homemade 25 ft copper immersion chiller. I chill in my kitchen with my kitchen sink, which my pot does not fit in. I do spray the outside with water to try to lose heat that way.

If I stir the whole time, it doesn't take that long to cool (maybe 15 - 20 minutes), but I feel like the pot holding heat slows it down.

Perhaps I am wrong in thinking that the aluminum is the culprit. I have never used stainless so I can't compare. Maybe it is more the thickness. If I used stainless, it would be much thinner, and I feel like it would cool faster. I could be totally wrong though, it's ok to tell me that I am!
 
No, you are not badgering. I've been wanting to discuss this with someone. I have a homemade 25 ft copper immersion chiller. I chill in my kitchen with my kitchen sink, which my pot does not fit in. I do spray the outside with water to try to lose heat that way.

If I stir the whole time, it doesn't take that long to cool (maybe 15 - 20 minutes), but I feel like the pot holding heat slows it down.

Perhaps I am wrong in thinking that the aluminum is the culprit. I have never used stainless so I can't compare. Maybe it is more the thickness. If I used stainless, it would be much thinner, and I feel like it would cool faster. I could be totally wrong though, it's ok to tell me that I am!

I just cool in the sink, but I've read several places that moving the immersion chiller up and down (and sideways if there's room) get really quick cooling. I've use both stainless and aluminum, and I like the aluminum better. Like yours, it has really thick walls, and along with the higher heat transfer, heat distribution is really even across the bottom of the pot.
 
I just cool in the sink, but I've read several places that moving the immersion chiller up and down (and sideways if there's room) get really quick cooling. I've use both stainless and aluminum, and I like the aluminum better. Like yours, it has really thick walls, and along with the higher heat transfer, heat distribution is really even across the bottom of the pot.

When I used an immersion chiller, I always stirred the wort. If not, you will develop a cold zone around the chiller, yes there is a natural convection from hot to cold, but it is slow. You need to stir the wort to cool it faster. I just moved my chiller in a circle and side to side.
 
Hehe, was thinking of asking this question but Google brought me to this topic itself :)

Bought an aluminium (!!) pot today - cheaper than SS here.
 
I do stir the wort, and I'm still not convinced that I wouldn't have faster cooling if I switched to stainless. It just seems like my 1/8 inch thick of aluminum really seems to hold on to some heat.

I guess I'll never know unless I switch to stainless.
 
...of aluminum and a typical stainless steel mix. I would suspect AL is less dense than steel, typically aluminum racing bikes (Tour de France) weigh much less than chromium-molybdenum bikes, or Reynolds steel tubed frames .

Just my $0.03 (inflation's a *****) :mad:
 
I do stir the wort, and I'm still not convinced that I wouldn't have faster cooling if I switched to stainless. It just seems like my 1/8 inch thick of aluminum really seems to hold on to some heat.

I guess I'll never know unless I switch to stainless.

Aluminum transfers heat much quicker than steel of any type. I weld steel and aluminum all day and I can tell you there is a huge difference. Perhaps 30-50%. at the same thickness and at the temps we are dealing with.
 
Ok. So you are saying that stainless would hold onto the heat even more? But that is if they were the same thickness, which they would not be. So maybe it would come out to about the same. My aluminum pot is pretty thick.
 
I think the weight of the kettle may be more important than the thickness.

Even though the thickness is greater with aluminum, the weight is likely comparable or likely even lighter than a stainless kettle, and the aluminum kettle will cool more quickly than stainless.

My 1/8" thick aluminum kettle appears to cool more quickly than a Stainless kettle several times thicker.
 
Ok. So you are saying that stainless would hold onto the heat even more? But that is if they were the same thickness, which they would not be. So maybe it would come out to about the same. My aluminum pot is pretty thick.

Aluminum transfers heat faster. I am not sure where thickness plays in though I could find out as I have all the materials and equipment required to do a proper test but it would be complicated. Total mass makes a difference because things get hot faster when heat runs out of places to go. A metallurgist/engineer would do a better job but I can actually get pretty close because I have some good instruments. liquid of different viscosity will have an effect also.

What I know for sure today is when you grind aluminum rod 1/2" diameter you can remove a lot with a #60 belt but the rod will become too hot almost instantly, Stainless will take longer and get hot gradually but your fingers will get a lot hotter if you don't quench the part. The rod will get to 500 rather than 400 but take longer. I need a nap now.
 
Has anyone tried a cast iron pan for a diffusier? Put the pan on the heat and the kettle on top, you need a clean/new pan or you will get a smoky kitchen from the seasoning.
 
This thread has been very informative.
It has also talked me into purchasing a 30Q alum turkey fryer- burner combo from local hardware store
 
No, you are not badgering. I've been wanting to discuss this with someone. I have a homemade 25 ft copper immersion chiller. I chill in my kitchen with my kitchen sink, which my pot does not fit in. I do spray the outside with water to try to lose heat that way.

If I stir the whole time, it doesn't take that long to cool (maybe 15 - 20 minutes), but I feel like the pot holding heat slows it down.

Perhaps I am wrong in thinking that the aluminum is the culprit. I have never used stainless so I can't compare. Maybe it is more the thickness. If I used stainless, it would be much thinner, and I feel like it would cool faster. I could be totally wrong though, it's ok to tell me that I am!
You might try one of those party tubs on your counter top and put your brewpot in there. You'd probably need/want to put a couple of thin bricks or small pieces of slate to keep the pot off the bottom of the plastic tub for the initial heat and have some water in there when you put the pot in. You should add a plastic spigot and use that to periodically drain the pot into the sink. Just thinkin' out loud (sort of...).
 
I have read as many pages of this thread as I could, which Is just about all of them.
I am really torn on this alum vs stainless.
Trouble is I was given a $100 gift card and I am going to use it on a kettle.
Torn between going with an inexpensive aluminum or more pricy ss
Everytime I make up my mind about Aluminum I have second thoughts.As said before many almost all LHBS peddle SS over alum.

In my search of the interweb I found this, which looks like a nice inexpensive option
http://www.target.com/p/bayou-classic-turkey-fryer-30-qt/-/A-591462

I could even use the aluminum plate for false bottom (with some added stainless nuts and bolts)

But then someone sends me this.

http://www.homebrewing.org/Brew-Pots_c_79.htmlAnd this

http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/products/bayou-classic-30-quart-stainless-steel-brew-pot-1430

Am I correct that there is no conclusive evidence to indicate that Aluminum can cause health concerns?
 
Go with the stainless. There's a reason the professionals use ss. Aluminum will work in a pinch, but ss is definitely superior
 
I have read as many pages of this thread as I could, which Is just about all of them.
I am really torn on this alum vs stainless.
Trouble is I was given a 100 gift card and I am going to use it on a kettle.
Torn between going with an inexpensive aluminum or more pricy ss
Everytime I make up my mind about Aluminum I have second thoughts.As said before many almost all LHBS peddle SS over alum.

In my search of the interweb I found this, which looks like a nice inexpensive option
http://www.target.com/p/bayou-classic-turkey-fryer-30-qt/-/A-591462

I could even use the aluminum plate for false bottom (with some added stainless nuts and bolts)

But then someone sends me this.

http://www.homebrewing.org/Brew-Pots_c_79.htmlAnd this

http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/products/bayou-classic-30-quart-stainless-steel-brew-pot-1430

Am I correct that there is no conclusive evidence to indicate that Aluminum can cause health concerns?

Have you given thought to the size of the pot you really want to use? Most brewers I know try to start with 10 gallon pots for their boil. I would go with the biggest pot your budget will allow.
 
Have you given thought to the size of the pot you really want to use? Most brewers I know try to start with 10 gallon pots for their boil. I would go with the biggest pot your budget will allow.


I was looking at 7.5 or 8 gallon pot.
I am currently making partial mash/extract 5 gallon batches
Or 1 gallon all grain.
I have considered maybe trying my hand at 3 gallon all grain.
But I don't know if I will ever go 5 gallon all grain, just don't have the room in my kitchen.

With my budget at $100,
A 10 gallon SS is usually out of range!

Would you suggest bigger & SS?
 
40 qt pot $53

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CHKL68/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

pot.jpg
 
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I know that some of the advice said to go with a 10 gal pot, but you mentioned that you have limited space in your kitchen. That 10-gal pot is going to be about 14 inches in diameter (and 14 inches high). That may not sound like a lot, but it is freakin' huge when you put it on a standard kitchen range. Can you accommodate that in your kitchen and on your stovetop?

With my 10-gal pot, and the large burner on high, the flame actually spread out an hit the countertop surface to the right of the stove. Something to think about. You might want to do a cardboard template to see how it fits on your burner configuration.

I can only use mine on the 55,000 BTU outdoor gas burner. It takes a lot of flame to bring 10 gal of room temp water to a boil.

I went with aluminum, 4-mm thick (actually the one in the post above me). The thick gauge stainless were out of my price range. BEfore using, I boiled water in it. The aluminum turned dark gray below the water line, a sign of a good oxide coating. I haven't picked up any off flavors.
 
I was looking at 7.5 or 8 gallon pot.
I am currently making partial mash/extract 5 gallon batches
Or 1 gallon all grain.
I have considered maybe trying my hand at 3 gallon all grain.
But I don't know if I will ever go 5 gallon all grain, just don't have the room in my kitchen.

With my budget at $100,
A 10 gallon SS is usually out of range!

Would you suggest bigger & SS?

If you want to go stainless steel then this is a very good pot. The ss metal is a thicker gauge than most pots sold by Bayou. I use to have 4 off these. The bottom has aluminum plate sandwiched between layers of ss.


I use aluminum now for my brewing because I moved outdoors with propane burners. I have never had any problem with using aluminum and I have asked the chemistry professors where I teach science and they have all stated that think using aluminum to brew is just fine. 3 of them drink my beer on a regular basis for the past 4 years so I do not doubt there word on this matter.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AS81BQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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I know that some of the advice said to go with a 10 gal pot, but you mentioned that you have limited space in your kitchen. That 10-gal pot is going to be about 14 inches in diameter (and 14 inches high). That may not sound
like a lot, but it is freakin' huge when you put it on a standard kitchen range. Can you accommodate that in your kitchen and on your stovetop?

With my 10-gal pot, and the large burner on high, the flame actually spread out an hit the countertop surface to the right of the stove. Something to think about. You might want to do a cardboard template to see how it fits on your burner configuration.

I can only use mine on the 55,000 BTU outdoor gas burner. It takes a lot of flame to bring 10 gal of room temp water to a boil.

I went with aluminum, 4-mm thick (actually the one in the post above me). The thick gauge stainless were out of my price range. BEfore using, I boiled water in it. The aluminum turned dark gray below the water line, a sign of a good oxide coating. I haven't picked up any off flavors.


Did not even think of size of kettle.
I have a small range , so this may deter me from even getting a 7.5 gall aluminum pot
My largest burner
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459378142.848467.jpg
12"x12" box on said burner
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459378186.791015.jpg
 
Did not even think of size of kettle.
I have a small range , so this may deter me from even getting a 7.5 gall aluminum pot
My largest burner
View attachment 347895
12"x12" box on said burner
View attachment 347896
I hate glass top stoves. If the pot isn't perfectly flat you wont get anything to boil. I have one of those 10gal winco pots and it wouldnt come to a boil on my glass top. So I drilled in two 1500w elements and never looked back.
 
I tried to pacify the oxidation layer on my aluminum kettle by boiling about 5 and a half gallons about 2 weeks ago. When I realize that the only oxidized a few gallons of where I wanted to, I added the full eight gallons today and boiled for over an hour. As you can see the oxidation level did not reach all the way to the top. Can anyone explain why it was able to do it the first time with only 5 gallons, and now it wasn't able to do it for the full 8?

View attachment 1460916136927.jpg
 
I tried to pacify the oxidation layer on my aluminum kettle by boiling about 5 and a half gallons about 2 weeks ago. When I realize that the only oxidized a few gallons of where I wanted to, I added the full eight gallons today and boiled for over an hour. As you can see the oxidation level did not reach all the way to the top. Can anyone explain why it was able to do it the first time with only 5 gallons, and now it wasn't able to do it for the full 8?

was the kettle washed and cleaned? Could be oil / grease preventing it. but the oxide layer towards the top will not be as dark as the lower portion, but that doesn't matter.
 
was the kettle washed and cleaned? Could be oil / grease preventing it. but the oxide layer towards the top will not be as dark as the lower portion, but that doesn't matter.

This^^^

I think the whole oxide layer paranoia is overblown.

I'm pretty sure that when a restaurant gets a new aluminum kettle they don't boil water in it before they use it.
 
I used the kettle 3x. Once when out of the box and bright and shiny to make a cream stout, then to sterilize jars of water and a 3rd time to make a Lagunas Brown Sugga clone. Only cleaned with soap.and water. Only used for those three times.
 
Ok, I've been reading, and reading and have not seen this question, so I'm gonna ask. I just bought a 24qt aluminum pot. Filled it within 3 inches from the top with water and boiled for one hour. What I was left with was a milky colored water and a coil shaped rough spot on the bottom of the pot from the electric burner. It did not end up with the dark grey oxide layer that everyone here is talking about. Is this normal? What am I not doing correctly?
 
Ok, I've been reading, and reading and have not seen this question, so I'm gonna ask. I just bought a 24qt aluminum pot. Filled it within 3 inches from the top with water and boiled for one hour. What I was left with was a milky colored water and a coil shaped rough spot on the bottom of the pot from the electric burner. It did not end up with the dark grey oxide layer that everyone here is talking about. Is this normal? What am I not doing correctly?

Keep the lid on while boiling to help build up the layer on the inner surface.
 
Keep the lid on while boiling to help build up the layer on the inner surface.

Yeah, I kept the lid on it the whole time. I didn't darken at all. Actually turned more of a gold color. And I noticed a strong metallic smell. What I'm concerned with is the spots on the bottom from my electric burner. They are rough spots. almost seem pitted. Should this have happened while only boiling water??

IMG_4232.jpg
 
Is that stainless?
Just a guess, looks to shiny for aluminum?

Honestly, I don't know. It didn't say on the tag. Just said "Made in India."
I asked the manager at the store I bought it from and he said it was aluminum. But I agree with you. In fact, I thought it was stainless. Very shiny for just aluminum. I was wondering if it is coated with something to make it that shiny. And maybe that is why it now has those "pitted"spots on the bottom. Would an electric burner do that to stainless?

It looks exactly the same as this one, and it is also made in India.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BTMWWOU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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My guess is that your pot is thin stainless and the marks you see on it are mineral deposits. I would clean it with a scrubby or better yet bar keepers friend.

It will work for brewing, just be cautious of scorching with such a thin pot on an e-stove. Turn off heat or better remove from heat when if adding extracts, perhaps heat slightly lower than max while heating to boil if possible, stirring is a good idea as well.

Brew on as Doug would say lol
 
I'm watching a documentary on the History Channel, The Hardest Metal in the World, it features lots of metals. It just stated that aluminum is inert in the human body, and safe for heating food.
 
The nice thing about aluminum is its cheap. The not nice thing about cheap aluminum is its cheap.
What kind of water did you use? If you used distilled there wouldn't be anything for the Aluminum to react with to build the layer. Distilled water also wouldn't pit aluminum.

Cheap stainless would show rust not pits. Stick a magnet to it. Cheap SS won't have enough nickel to keep a magnet from sticking.

Regardless, take it back and increase your budget and get a good one.
Make sure its at least 3003. 3004 is better but wicked expensive compared to cheap Indian pots.
 
The nice thing about aluminum is its cheap. The not nice thing about cheap aluminum is its cheap.
What kind of water did you use? If you used distilled there wouldn't be anything for the Aluminum to react with to build the layer. Distilled water also wouldn't pit aluminum.

Cheap stainless would show rust not pits. Stick a magnet to it. Cheap SS won't have enough nickel to keep a magnet from sticking.

Regardless, take it back and increase your budget and get a good one.
Make sure its at least 3003. 3004 is better but wicked expensive compared to cheap Indian pots.


A magnet not sticking to stainless steel has nothing to do with quality. Some like 304 are non magnetic originally and become magnetic depending on how they are worked, welded or cold rolled.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/identification-stainless-steel-d_383.html

If you bought a high end stainless appliance normally they are non-magnetic where as cheaper grades are magnetic.
 
In short. Just because steel is magnetic it doesn't mean it's alloys are. It also doesn't show the percentage of real steel. A 90% mix with one metal may remain magnetic, while a 90% mix with another metal may not be.
 
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