Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

When I ordered my 2 tanks last Sunday night I just adding in the "special instructions" area that I would like the 1-1/2" option sent and on Friday tada!

chuckjaxfl said:

I've (obviously) been watching this thread. I think when I take on this project, I'll put a cam-lock or a tri-clover between the valve and the bulb.

Seems like you could start with one of these:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

and go tri-clover from there. Or put big camlocks between the bulb and the valve.

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Great idea, I could get two of these a clamp and a gasket and replace the male pvc with a female pvc end on the yeast catcher. Then there will be no future threading problems just use the tri colver clamp to remove the yeast catcher. I will see if I place the order tomorrow so I can still integrate it on this batch.

tdiowa said:

I have been using these tanks for four years. I now have (3) 10 gallon tanks for my 8 gallon batches. After the mods on the tank and building my own stand I have about 100.00 dollars in them. Great for yeast harvest and put a second spicket for bottling.

I emailed them last summer and asked them if they would make a 7.5 gallon tank. I haven't reeived a response.

TD

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How do you bottle out of one of these tanks? What's the process? I just ordered one, hopefully it will be here next week!

I'm thinking about trying it without the yeast catcher... just a 1.5" dump valve, so I can dump trub and yeast into a jar without worrying about purging the yeast catcher with CO2

Great idea on the Tri-clovers. Just ordered 2. I also ordered a 12" rubber o-ring to seal the lid. I will post results from the o-ring.

Sacdan, where did you get the o-ring. And please let us know how it works out. Would be great to know we can get close to an air tight seal.

I bought it at allorings.com. I had to look up the o-ring size chart. It should have an ID of 12" and an OD of 12 1/4", I think.

Airtight would certainly rule. It's the only thing keeping me from swooping.

kgalle said:

Airtight would certainly rule. It's the only thing keeping me from swooping.

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Airtight doesn't matter as long as CO2 is present, which it always is due to the fermentation. Really, don't sweat it... Cheers, and happy brewing!!!

Well guys after reading this whole thread from the begining i just ordered the 15gal tank and stand should be here tuesday. Ill set it up and let you know how it turns out. I got alot of good info from everyone here thanks.

What length stainless coil would be required to drop in this thing for temp control?

Temperature control is the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger…

*subscribed

This is AWESOME!!!

mschrock said:

What length stainless coil would be required to drop in this thing for temp control?

Temperature control is the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger…

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I use a 25ft stainless coil from nybrewsupply.com and have been able to maintain 40 degrees below ambient. (although the chiller did run a lot more)

I live near Huntsville, AL. We have this awesome BioDiesel mfg called DudaDiesel. Cone Bottom & Inductor Tanks with Metal Stands

They have big plastic fermentors...15 gal starting at $159.14


They sell brewing Plate Chillers and he claims that his cone tanks work great for brewing...Give him a ring...

• Phone Orders: (256) 340-4866
• Toll Free: 1-855-DUDA-BIO

Bob-

BeerBrewBob said:

They have big plastic fermentors...15 gal starting at $159.-

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I appreciate that you give your buddy a shout-out...that's respectable. You may want to read the thread first, however, since the first page has 15-gal plastic fermenters for $70 ($80 less than your friend!).

"All your home brew are belong to us!"

The Duda Diesel plate chillers are definitely the best deal out there. There are a couple of threads here about those already.

OhioValleyAG offers 15g tank and stand for around 135 shipped just fyi.

Shockerengr said:

I use a 25ft stainless coil from nybrewsupply.com and have been able to maintain 40 degrees below ambient. (although the chiller did run a lot more)

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Any examples of how to mount a temperature probe in the tank?

I have not personally tried it, but I would assume a weldless thermo probe fitting from bargainfittings would work just fine.

I used the weldless bulkhead fitting from brewershardware + a thermowell

Ohio valley is still cheaper than this place, but if someone wanted to get crazy and go 110 gallon this place has one.

Plastic-Mart Product Search

they do will call in some location, but they still charge a 35 fee so doesnt really help unless you bought more and lived in the town.

I just got my conical and I was sad to see the lid assembly is held on with what look like wood screws that go all the way through to the inside. Is this how they all are? How are people cleaning these out and sanitizing everything? Is there anything to worry about with the screws?

I didn't notice that. Thanks. I haven't filled mine to the top with beer yet. My krausen hasn't reached that high either. I guess we could put some food grade silicone on the screws or just take them out every once in awhile. I am not too concerned.

I have one of these for the the last few years. I put it into use in 2007, anyways, they work fine, I don't age in the tank, just primary. They aren't airtight, don't need an airlock, and are what they are. I use mine all the time, 7 days, and outta there. Winters are better, but in the fruit fly season, its a quick trip then keg and drink.

Hey guys, just wanted to update my yeast catcher build. My parts for the quick disconnect came in today so no more threading issues.

HellBentBrewCo said:

I just got my conical and I was sad to see the lid assembly is held on with what look like wood screws that go all the way through to the inside. Is this how they all are? How are people cleaning these out and sanitizing everything? Is there anything to worry about with the screws?

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no screws in the two I recieved a couple weeks ago... lid screws on- not airtight -but I'm not worried about that

check on the inside, looking up through the bottom. The piece the lid screws into is held on with screws.

HellBentBrewCo said:

check on the inside, looking up through the bottom. The piece the lid screws into is held on with screws.

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quite right! I'll check to see if they are stainless ( not likely) and replace tham if need be.. but Ill be disassembling between sessions for sanitizing for sure.

I haven't taken mine apart yet but would there be a way to take out the screws and then seal the holes / reattach the lid assembly with some sort of food grade silicon adhesive? Would this be overkill?

The screws do seem to be stainless steel by the "magnet" test. Given the location at the very top of the conical they aren't likely to have much contact with the Wort unless the Krausen gets up to the lid- and if they are SS I'm not worried about contact with the wort as long as the fermenter has been thoroughly sanitized ahead of time.
You probably could back out the screws and attach the collar with silicone, but that would make it impractical ... or impossible... to disassemble the lid assembly to clean and sanitize.
In the end having a fermenter that you can 'break down' to clean is probably a good thing as long as the components are non-reactive and food safe.
off topic a bit... has anyone fitted there lid with a gasket? I'm curious to know if it was an easy fit.

I'm interested in a gasket as well. I'd like mine to be airtight. The fruit flies have been unreal this year and I'm planning on having this thing in my garage.

chrisdb said:

oops... ordered the stands not the tanks
corrected order placed

2 Ace Roto Mold 15 Gallon Full Drain Inductor Tank IN0015-19 @ $61.99
2 Banjo 1-1/2" Polypropylene Bolted Ball Valve V150 @ $22.99
2 Nipple Male Thread 1 1/2" @$2.99
shipping to 19072 UPS ground $17.67
total $193.61
After keeping the very nice RuralKing rep on the line to correct the order I didn't have the heart to take my business elsewhere. I'm pretty happy with two tanks with valves for less than 2 Franklins, but I'll check the ohio valley to see if it would be better after shipping.
I started at another sight wich "guaranteed" the best price and lowest shipping... well the price wasn't lowest and the shipping was over $90- Buyer Beware

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did you ever get this assembled?
what did you use to seal the nipple against the inside wall?
is the bottom outlet 1.5 or 2"?


just about to pull the trigger on this, but want to make sure i get everything the first go round

I'm working on building stands for it now, but other than that it's not much of a 'project'. I'm not putting in another bulkhead- I'll be draining out of the bottom valve only. Also not puting in a 'yeast/trub catcher'- again draining out of the bottom valve direcly into a bucket (trub) or sanitized ball jar (yeast). I may add either or both in the future, but I think it could work fine without them.
The nipple is threaded into the bottom port , with teflon tape to seal the threads and a hose clamp (comes with the conical) to tighten the connection, and the ball valve is threaded into the nipple with teflon tape to seal the threads.
the connections are all 1 1/2"
and I think that this is the minimum to make it work if you are prepared to build a stand

cool. so as i want to drain the yeast from the bottom and have a bottling spigot i'm going to need two nipples, two ball valves and at least one nylon nut for the inside.

anyone have a sourcing suggestion? or should i go in a different direction?

Piratwolf said:

You may want to read the thread first, however, since the first page has 15-gal plastic fermenters for $70 ($80 less than your friend!).

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Ditto. This tank has a stand included (the $70 one doesn't). Materials would cost me at least $40, and it would take me a few hours of "engineering" to make the thing, so for $20 an hour, I'll buy it and drink beer instead.

GatorDad said:

Ditto. This tank has a stand included (the $70 one doesn't). Materials would cost me at least $40, and it would take me a few hours of "engineering" to make the thing, so for $20 an hour, I'll buy it and drink beer instead.

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Good call! . I like the way you're thinking!

"All your home brew are belong to us!"

HellBentBrewCo said:

I'm interested in a gasket as well. I'd like mine to be airtight. The fruit flies have been unreal this year and I'm planning on having this thing in my garage.

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Mine will be airtight, as well, so that I can pressurize it for transfer. I plan on following this guy's method of sealing the ring to the body of the conical. Let me know whatcha think of it.

EarthBound said:

Mine will be airtight, as well, so that I can pressurize it for transfer. I plan on following this guy's method of sealing the ring to the body of the conical. Let me know whatcha think of it.

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Link doesn't work

http://*****************.com/library/tag/diy-conical-fermenter-plastic/

Don't know WTF is going on, but all those stars actually say "brewers round table" without space between the words. Hilarious that those three words are filtered! I assume HBT has beef with BR.

BTW, the instructions are backwards, i.e., it shows part 3, then part 2, then part 1.

I hope this helps!

i plan on installing a racking arm in my conical. This is what i'm planning to use to breech the wall with :


my question is. if i want to join a 1 1/2" ball valve to it, what do i need to do it? The through wall fitting should be an ID of 1 1/2"? and then use a all thread nipple to join the two?


Here's what i'm thinking:
McMaster Carr:
3/4" Through-Wall Fittings #3736K2 $13.11
3/4" Polypropylene Ball Valves #48015K22 $15.50
Male x Female 45° Elbow 46885K133 $7.16

Total: $35.77

Rural King:
Ace Roto Mold 15 Gallon Full Drain Inductor Tank IN0015-19 $61.99
Nipple Male Thread 3/4" #002952046 $1.49
Green Leaf Male Adapter 3/4" Thread with 5/8" Barb A3458P $1.99
Banjo 1-1/2" Polypropylene Bolted Ball Valve V150 $22.99
Nipple Male Thread 1 1/2" $2.99
Total: $91.45

Grand Total:$127.22 plus labor and lumber to make a stand....