American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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This is what mine looks like not sure why it's so much lighter looking. I hit all my numbers and the beer taste great just looks way different than the other pics?

image.jpg
 
Making plans for a late Fall brew and I've decided that since I love Edwort's Apfelwein so much that I'll put all faith into any of his recipes. That said, does anyone have a preferred online grain vendor they use?
 
This is what mine looks like not sure why it's so much lighter looking. I hit all my numbers and the beer taste great just looks way different than the other pics?

Looks perfect. Sometimes lighting, type of glass, camera angle or some other factor can distort the color in a picture. Also, some people might not have brewed the identical recipe depending on grain they have on hand.

For what this beer is, I would say you did a fantastic job. As long as it tastes great, don't worry about the color.
 
I can't believe this didn't win best pale ale in the article a couple weeks back. On my second batch and it's a huge hit with everyone!

It would have only for @biermuncher 's fantastic centenial blonde being miscategorized. Probably should be in the light hybrid section being a blonde ale, but after 1,000,000+ views who's going to move it now.

Both great beers so no harm, no foul I suppose.
 
Making plans for a late Fall brew and I've decided that since I love Edwort's Apfelwein so much that I'll put all faith into any of his recipes. That said, does anyone have a preferred online grain vendor they use?

Scratch that question. Austinhomebrew, $24 including shipping my way(North Central Texas.)
 
Just got it in fermentation chamber. Hopefully I'm impressed. Description from everyone sounds like its what Im looking for. Can't go wrong with Ed as ive learned.

Didn't take measurements cause I'm just lazy but it turned out nice. Will be the beer I don't run low on for football season...love the color and taste has some bite but not hard hitting, great session. Loving this beer..I'm an IPA fan but this hits the spot more frequently. If u need exercise..give it a try cause I'm getting workout pulling the tap..!
 
I will say..cost me 29 bux for 5 gallon batch at my Lhbs. Cmon u guys getting a deal less than 20.

Ouch! My lhbs sells a 50lb base grain virtual bag for 39$ brings it to 81cents after tax per lb. You can grow cascade pretty easily. And recycle your yeast. Yeast washing is pretty easy. Mine was around 10$ for 5.25 g. Halifaxhops on here sent me some awesome hops starts for a good price if you r interested.
The recipe is still worth 29$ but that might help you 3x as much. Cheers and Happy brewing
-Imp
 
I brewed up 10 gallons of this for my friend's wedding this past, which happened this past weekend. All 10 gallons were finished at the wedding (along with 15 gallons of another recipe). Not bad for a total of 60 guests. This was a tasty and popular choice.
 
Once I pitch the yeast at 70-75F, what's the best temperature to hold it at in my fermentation chamber (since nottingham yeast likes cooler temps)?
 
I am brewing this as we speak, and unfortunately made a mistake when I copied it into my brewbook...

I am usually an extract brewer but wanted to try the mini mash for this recipe, so I copied both recipes down.

So long story short, I accidently bought 2 pounds of munich INSTEAD of Vienna, and did a mini mash with that and 0.5 lb crystal 8 (didn't have 10L at my HBS) following the mini mash instructions on page 1.

How will this effect the overall taste/color and how much different will it be than the original recipe? :(
 
I made a batch of this yesterday and was low on OG @ 1.044. It was BIAB with 5.5g and I poured 2.37g of 170f over the bag. I pitched a saved 1332 yeast with a starter. It is bubbling nicely this am.

Since the OG was low I am thinking about adding a 1lb of honey to raise it 7 points after the bubbling slows down. I raise bees and have plenty of honey.

First time I have missed the OG but I have only made 5 batches. I hit the OG for Bee Cave Hefe with this BIAB method right on the money @ 1.052. I want to try the Haus again but hit the OG. Should I add a lb or 2 row?
 
Just brewed this for the first time. Hit an OG of 1.050 using the exact grain bill and BIAB method. Chilled to 61 degrees and pitched one pack of rehydrated US-05.

This was a very easy brew to do and I'm excited to taste it. Will keg after about 10 days primary and two days cold crash. Thanks for this recipe!
 
I made a batch of this yesterday and was low on OG @ 1.044. It was BIAB with 5.5g and I poured 2.37g of 170f over the bag. I pitched a saved 1332 yeast with a starter. It is bubbling nicely this am.

Since the OG was low I am thinking about adding a 1lb of honey to raise it 7 points after the bubbling slows down. I raise bees and have plenty of honey.

First time I have missed the OG but I have only made 5 batches. I hit the OG for Bee Cave Hefe with this BIAB method right on the money @ 1.052. I want to try the Haus again but hit the OG. Should I add a lb or 2 row?

Really it would still taste great at 1.044. I don't think it's that big of a deal, but adding the honey is always an option. With you being only a couple batches in, I would leave it as it is (my opinion). I have missed my OG on many batches and it always turns out wonderful.
 
Can someone give me a quick explanation of why people promote aging for 6-8 weeks in the keezer? Doesn't this form of aging only improve clarity? Or is my understanding incorrect?

Many times on this thread I see people keg after 10 days, carb it for a week, then be told to wait, it'll even get better. Not to rush it etc.

i admit I'm trying to be impatient because I have no beer in my kegs right now (my haus pale ale is at 9 days and my hydro sample tastes grrrrrrrrreat!!!)

but also wanting to learn if there is something more to cold aging then just clarity.

Thanks!
 
I usually go grain to glass in about 10 days with this beer. IMO, the taste doesn't improve, but the beer clears up after about another week in the keg. YMMV

Edit: Wrong beer. (Centenial Blonde ^^^^)

I have made this beer a few times I like it better after a couple weeks in the keg. The flavors seem to take a little while to balance out.

Of course, it may just be my imagination.
 
Can someone give me a quick explanation of why people promote aging for 6-8 weeks in the keezer? Doesn't this form of aging only improve clarity? Or is my understanding incorrect?

Many times on this thread I see people keg after 10 days, carb it for a week, then be told to wait, it'll even get better. Not to rush it etc.

i admit I'm trying to be impatient because I have no beer in my kegs right now (my haus pale ale is at 9 days and my hydro sample tastes grrrrrrrrreat!!!)

but also wanting to learn if there is something more to cold aging then just clarity.

Thanks!

First time I brewed this I went grain to glass in about two weeks. I kegged a little after a week in primary and then set at 30 psi for 36 hours, and then set to serving pressure for the next few days. I think it does taste a little bit sitting for a few weeks, but even at two weeks it's still a great beer.
 
Ok great thanks. I kegged mine at 11 days and now carbonating. Can't wait to try it in a few days! I'll pay extra attention to how it changes over time as only experience I have with aging/conditioning is 60-70 degrees, not cold, and really can't find info on the differences. (Though I'm sure there is a ton of info out there that I just can't find)
 
Ok great thanks. I kegged mine at 11 days and now carbonating. Can't wait to try it in a few days! I'll pay extra attention to how it changes over time as only experience I have with aging/conditioning is 60-70 degrees, not cold, and really can't find info on the differences. (Though I'm sure there is a ton of info out there that I just can't find)

Aging/conditioning happens more quickly when warm (60-70 like you had). Cold conditioning is a different process and the processes that happen in warm conditioning slow down in cold conditioning ( such as yeast cleaning up byproducts) . There is a different transformation of the beer when it is kept cold though. It becomes clearer and more crisp.

Think of it as when you bottle, you leave it warm for a few weeks to carbonate. In this time the yeast are doing things to the beer (including carbonation). When you keg you're either A) kegging and leaving it warm or B) kegging and throwing it in the keezer right away. On the latter you're going to have a different experience of the beer from bottle conditioning since it never went through an extended warm period post fermentation. On the former you could possibly get the same yeast interaction except it's not quite the same since the yeast aren't going back into a fermentation phase of eating sugar, that is unless you naturally carbonate in the keg.
 
I had a brain fart and omitted the Crystal 10. Everything else went great. FG 1.051. What might I expect when this gets to drinking time?
 
I had a brain fart and omitted the Crystal 10. Everything else went great. FG 1.051. What might I expect when this gets to drinking time?

A nice buzz.

C10 doesn't have that much flavor and it is a modest amount of this recipe. You'll have a good example of a beer made with all base malt. Believe it or not, they can actually be pretty good.
 
A nice buzz.

C10 doesn't have that much flavor and it is a modest amount of this recipe. You'll have a good example of a beer made with all base malt. Believe it or not, they can actually be pretty good.

I'd say they can even be fantastic! One of the best beers I've ever had is a SMASH IPA.... one malt and one hop... and so delicious! I'm sure this beer will turn out really good without the crystal malt. You'll just have to brew it again to find out the difference!
 
Thanks for the responses. I've brewed it ~ a dozen times, as it is a favorite of mine, and is quite popular with family & friends. And I didn't pull out any home brew until after mashing, so I can't blame that for screwing up grain bill.
 
I brewed this on 11/08/15 with the following for my system's effiency:

#9 American 2 row
#2.25 Vienna
9 oz of Crystal 10

Mashed at #152 and lost about 1 degree after an hour.
I calculated wort PH with gypsum and lactic acid for the first time.
Expected OG was 1.052
Actual gravity was 1.054 <-- I believe the PH was in a more optimal conversion level because in the past I always hit my numbers consistently without treatment.

I pitched Wyeast 1028 yeast from a starter..
on 11/16/15 (8 days later) it's at 1.009!! 81% attenuation and about 5.7% alcohol so far - man this yeast attenuates like US-05!!!!

Taste is amazing on the beer! Sweet, but very dry and crisp and the hop flavor comes through - this will probably be my best pale beer so far!
Going to dry hop with more cascade in the keg and tap it next month. :rockin:
 
This recipe looked simple and good.
So I bought all the grains and yeast.
I also bought a pre-packed pound of Sauermlz to have around for when I decided to get a better handle on my mash ph.

I crushed the pale and vienna and reached for the bag of crystal malt thinking, "I'm just gonna go with the whole pound (it's pre-packaged that way and my scale was in the house). So in it goes.

I'm halfway through boil and I go to my bench and see a one pound bag of crystal malt...what, huh?

Yup, I threw in a pound of Sauermalz instead of crystal malt.:smack::smack::smack:

Been in the fermenter at 68 degrees for 10 days. I'll transfer it to a keg and crash it this weekend. Hope is it isn't too sour/bad.

Guess I'll pay better attention next time...or post it as a new recipe :cool:
 
Just brewed this last week for the first time. Hit my OG of 1.050 and fermenting started 24 hours later and stopped the next day. Took my final gravity of 1.008, had to taste my sample of course, and its amazing. Gonna keg in the next 2-3 days can't wait.....
 
How did this turn out??

:pipe:

This recipe looked simple and good.
So I bought all the grains and yeast.
I also bought a pre-packed pound of Sauermlz to have around for when I decided to get a better handle on my mash ph.

I crushed the pale and vienna and reached for the bag of crystal malt thinking, "I'm just gonna go with the whole pound (it's pre-packaged that way and my scale was in the house). So in it goes.

I'm halfway through boil and I go to my bench and see a one pound bag of crystal malt...what, huh?

Yup, I threw in a pound of Sauermalz instead of crystal malt.:smack::smack::smack:

Been in the fermenter at 68 degrees for 10 days. I'll transfer it to a keg and crash it this weekend. Hope is it isn't too sour/bad.

Guess I'll pay better attention next time...or post it as a new recipe :cool:
 
Brewed this again like 3 weeks ago, kegged it last week and sampled some today. It's still not carbed, but has a very, overly bitter, unenjoyable taste to it. Will a couple more weeks in the keg and carbonation solve this issue?
 
Brewed this as my first beer and totally messed it up, but still drank it. Cracked the second attempt this evening... it is wonderful beer. Wife loves it too! Now that I am drinking some excellent home brew, I feel like I am off to the races. Got a few of my kinks worked out and things can only get better from here.

Might have to buy a few more kegs, I do not know if six is going to be enough to keep our keezer stocked!
 
This is going down good today. 60 degrees in Ohio and I'm on my fourth pint. Trying to free up the keg for my next batch :p Grilling some steaks tonight!
 
So I've got on hand Citra, Columbus and Mosaic hops. Going to make this grain bill this week, but wondering which I should use.
 
So I've got on hand Citra, Columbus and Mosaic hops. Going to make this grain bill this week, but wondering which I should use.

Made this yesterday, used all Columbus - adjusted to hit about 42 IBU.

Unfortunately missed my OG, only came in at about 43/44 points, rather than 50.

Not entirely sure what went wrong, BIAB, same process I always use. Almost always hit the numbers. I'm hoping I don't end up with too bitter a beer, considering. Or too watery.

Pitched WY1968, as I had quite a bit of that on hand from a prior batch.
 
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