Mini Brutus 20 build controller question

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Derek1985

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planning a scaled down version of jkarp's Brutus 20 countertop system and could use some advice for the controller.

I'm planning on doing 1 gallon micro batches in my finished basement using a 2 gal kettle, 2 gal cooler mash tun and a 1.5kW 120V element. The standard seems to be a PID controller for more than a few reasons.

I recently came across a blog post about a brewer using the STC 1000 for his e-kettle and automated herms system. After emailing him for some clarification he spoke about how the STC probe is accurate but the unit itself is not as responsive as a PID controller would be and he often overshoots his mash temps. One of the reasons he felt this occurred was the fact that he was using a small heat source (2kW element) for around 4-5 gal batches. He seemed to think that having such a small source hooked to such a large sink (HLT and MLT) cause the wild fluctuations.

My question is this: if using my scaled down setup with a 1.5kW element, would I be able to reduce these sort of fluctuations if I used an STC 1000? I ask because I already have one on hand and an SSR and heat sink would only cost $5 or so.
 
If it only costs you 5-10 dollars, then what do you really have to lose? Especially when doing 1 gallon batches. I'd try it and use an additional accurate thermometer as verification.
 
Given that I would have 1.5 gal at most circulating at any given time, it may work out just fine.
 
Given that I would have 1.5 gal at most circulating at any given time, it may work out just fine.
 
Yeah, I agree. If I recall correctly you can also adjust the cycle time on the stc-1000. I guess the entire project hinges on the accuracy of the temp probe on the stc-1000.
 
Evidently it's fairly accurate. I know the original project used an RTD with a NPT thread to attach to the outlet valve T fitting. I'll have to probably use a 1/2" NPT thermowell for the STC probe.
 
I would say grab the SSR and give it a shot. If its not as responsive as you want its only another 20 to grab a PID controller and you will need the SSR for that anyway
 
I had read the info on STC-1000+ and it's very interesting. I have to research a bit more about how to flash the firmware. I'm an EE by profession but I'm in power engineering. Computers and "little wires" aren't really my thing.
 
I believe that your use an Arduino and you have to have a specific type of stc -1000, not all of them will flash correctly. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Given that you can get a PID from evilbay for a couple of bucks more than a STC why on earth would you want a STC? PIDs offer superior control, a range of types of probes and built in PWM.

I like the idea of a mini Brutus 20, it would be a pleasure to brew small batches.

Atb. Aamcl
 
OK its on then, but you should check it at 0 n 100°C that's what I check my PID at. I'd prefer say 55 and 75 °C but I keep baulking at the price of a certified thermometer.

Good luck. Aamcle
 
I figure with an element at 1.5kW and such a small thermal mass (1.5 gal max) that I should cut down on major swings.
 
My plan is to use my 2 gallon Coleman mash-tun, 2 gallon SS pot with 1.5kW element, scaled down bucket chiller and pump assembly (3 gal bucket) and my Brew Demon plastic conical. I figure that high gravity batches can be 1 gallon and lower gravity beers such as IPAs, mild, etc. can go up to 1.5 with no issues.
 
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