Question for those who use natural gas burners

phoenixs4r · Jan 25, 2012

Hello,

I'm using the big hurricane buner to run my setup, off of natural gas, and love it, except I control my flame via the brass orifce, which is threaded directly into the burner itself.

Obvioulsy, it gets rather warm in the area. Has anyone run a pipe from the burner, say 12", then hooked the orifice up at the end of it (Basically putting the orifice 12" away from the burner)?

Would this work? Or do I need to keep the orifice where it is and install a ball valve at the end of teh 12" pipe?

Thanks

l3asturd · Jan 25, 2012

phoenixs4r said:
Hello,

I'm using the big hurricane buner to run my setup, off of natural gas, and love it, except I control my flame via the brass orifce, which is threaded directly into the burner itself.

Obvioulsy, it gets rather warm in the area. Has anyone run a pipe from the burner, say 12", then hooked the orifice up at the end of it (Basically putting the orifice 12" away from the burner)?

Would this work? Or do I need to keep the orifice where it is and install a ball valve at the end of teh 12" pipe?

Thanks

Not sure about the 12" pipe, hopefully someone else will chime in who's tried it. I just wanted to say that you should use a needle valve for flow control instead of a ball valve.

pinback · Jan 25, 2012

i use a ball valve. it works well for my 18 tip jet burner

phoenixs4r · Jan 25, 2012

l3asturd said:
Not sure about the 12" pipe, hopefully someone else will chime in who's tried it. I just wanted to say that you should use a needle valve for flow control instead of a ball valve.

Why? I know nothing about valves, school me.

Hermit · Jan 25, 2012

You cannot relocate the orifice. That will not work. The hole where it is at ensures proper air mixture and circulation.

Polboy · Jan 25, 2012

I use NG with ball valve 15-20in from 23 tip burner and it's working just fine

drkwoods · Jan 25, 2012

A Ball Valve will work its just a very coarse adjustment. A needle valve is a fine adjustment and easier to set correctly. That's all as far as I know. I have natural gas ball valves and they adjust fine, but I have used the needle valve and there definitely more adjustability.. hope that helps

l3asturd · Jan 25, 2012

phoenixs4r said:
Why? I know nothing about valves, school me.

drkwoods took the words outta my mouth:

drkwoods said:
A Ball Valve will work its just a very coarse adjustment. A needle valve is a fine adjustment and easier to set correctly. That's all as far as I know. I have natural gas ball valves and they adjust fine, but I have used the needle valve and there definitely more adjustability.. hope that helps

GilaMinumBeer · Jan 25, 2012

How the feck are you adjusting the flame with the orifice?

phoenixs4r · Jan 25, 2012

drkwoods said:
A Ball Valve will work its just a very coarse adjustment. A needle valve is a fine adjustment and easier to set correctly. That's all as far as I know. I have natural gas ball valves and they adjust fine, but I have used the needle valve and there definitely more adjustability.. hope that helps

l3asturd said:
drkwoods took the words outta my mouth:

Thank you both.

Hermit said:
You cannot relocate the orifice. That will not work. The hole where it is at ensures proper air mixture and circulation.

Ok, so a valve on the other end of the pipe then?

GilaMinumBeer said:
How the feck are you adjusting the flame with the orifice?

The orifice supplied to me is a ball valve as well, seems to work ok.

BBL_Brewer · Jan 25, 2012

I use two 32 tip burners and I ran the main pipe behind the burner stands and kept it low to the ground and shielded it and then ran flex pipe from the burners over to a junction with ball valves. Works fine and I can adjust them without burning myself. I suppose a needle valve would provide a finer adjutment if you need it, however course adjustment works fine for my setup.

Hermit · Jan 25, 2012

phoenixs4r said:
Ok, so a valve on the other end of the pipe then?

Yep. "It's your funeral" would not be just a witty reply here but an actual possibility. Low, but possible.

The gas would simply come out of the pipe and go where ever, not shoot into the venturi.

GilaMinumBeer · Jan 25, 2012

phoenixs4r said:
The orifice supplied to me is a ball valve as well, seems to work ok.

I think what we have here is a breakdown in communication.

Do you have a photograph of said configuration?

phoenixs4r · Jan 25, 2012

GilaMinumBeer said:
I think what we have here is a breakdown in communication.

Do you have a photograph of said configuration?

Yes you are correct. I have NO IDEA why i called it an orifice.

Left side goes screws into burner, right side into natural gas line.

GilaMinumBeer · Jan 25, 2012

phoenixs4r said:
Yes you are correct. I have NO IDEA why i called it an orifice.

Left side goes screws into burner, right side into natural gas line.

Not at all. I was begining to assume you have a valve coupled directly to an orifice. This is why I asked if you have a picture. The device you are using is both a orifice and a ball valve and is not common. Typically, there is an orifice, a length of pipe, and an inline valve (ball or needle).

Personally, I would locate a separate orifice and valve and put some pipe between them.

drkwoods · Jan 25, 2012

I have those exact orifices (Phoenix), You can adjust the flame with that little valve (as you know it gets hot right there though) but I have the other valves (see pic) about 16" befor the orifice. I dont believe (the extra pipe idea) it would work well because the design is for the orifice to be right at the chamber heading down to the elbow and up to the burner holes.

phoenixs4r · Jan 25, 2012

drkwoods said:
I have those exact orifices (Phoenix), You can adjust the flame with that little valve (as you know it gets hot right there though) but I have the other valves (see pic) about 16" befor the orifice. I dont believe (the extra pipe idea) it would work well because the design is for the orifice to be right at the chamber heading down to the elbow and up to the burner holes.

OK I'll put a new valve before the pipe, and keep the orifice/valve where it is.

Thanks all!

Bobby_M · Jan 25, 2012

The hurricane nat gas conversion kit is, in fact, an orifice with a built in ball valve as you see in that picture. It's a stupid design but that's what it is. You can leave that valve wide open and control the gas upstream with another valve.

The folks chiming in that use multi jet burners need to realize that each tip in that configuration is its own orifice so it doesn't matter where the valve is located.

Hermit · Jan 25, 2012

Bobby_M said:
The hurricane nat gas conversion kit is, in fact, an orifice with a built in ball valve as you see in that picture. It's a stupid design but that's what it is. You can leave that valve wide open and control the gas upstream with another valve.

The folks chiming in that use multi jet burners need to realize that each tip in that configuration is its own orifice so it doesn't matter where the valve is located.

I wondered about that when I went to look up pictures to post here about it. I thought the multi-tipped burner wasn't really adjustable though from some of the things I've read?

bwiens · Jan 25, 2012

I have the same burners on natural gas. I have: orifice/valve on the burner <-> yellow flex <-> gas valve

It works fine and I guess you can adjust at the gas valve, but I always use the one on the burner. Never has gotten to hot for me to use.

pinback · Jan 25, 2012

Hermit said:
I wondered about that when I went to look up pictures to post here about it. I thought the multi-tipped burner wasn't really adjustable though from some of the things I've read?

Mine adjusts plenty fine. It's certainly not super clean when you throttle it down low, but I can maintain my temp on the HLT pretty well with the low flame.

Additionally, my valve for my one burner is like 6' away from the burner an it adjusts without any issue.

Question for those who use natural gas burners

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