building a brew stand and need some burner info please

Well i am new to the forums, im currently designing a brew stand for my brother that is a member here, he currently brews quite a bit of beer and just this weekend we enjoyed an entire corny of his beer, i get to see him a couple times a year and im trying to find something that we will both enjoy. Lets just say he has a phd in chemistry from isu and im a high school dropout with high mechanical knowledge, i do alot of fabrication work. So on with the questions

My first question is about these burners from northern brewer
found here http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...rners/cast-iron-banjo-burner-burner-only.html

it includes the orfice and cover plate etc, i want to run 3 of these burners off of a manifold, can i use 1 of there recomended regulator/hose kits to run all 3?

this regulator kit
found here http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/burners/regulator-kit-for-banjo-burner.html

Also, i am looking for some nice valves to control the gas flow to each burner than i can attatch knobs to and mount on the front panel of the stand, any suggestions? The next thing i am looking for is some battery powered igniters, im thinking about just buying some from the hardware store in the grill replacement parts section(i know they have them, ive bought them for a potato gun igniter before lol) will these suffice?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, i will post some pictures up in the near future, the entire construction will be stainless steal and will be a folding compact version much smaller than most of these 3-15.5 keggle setups but will be rather large when unfolded and setup for brewing.

welcome my brother is way cooler than me too. You want needle valves for precise flame control but they are not toataly nessesary mostly you will be dealng with on and off situations .the bbq valves did not work out well for me. ball valves are cheap readilly available and work fine for most folks. BTW read Shop Class As Soul Craft. School as modern society calls it, is no more than propogandic control.

I just bought two of those same burners for my stand that I'm getting ready to build. I plan on using ball valves to control the propane flow. I know another guy who uses ball valves and hasn't had any problems.

I have two 60k burners running of the same tank. The both use the same 10 psi reg that goes to 3/8" pipe. Then splits. Each burner has it's own needle valve. Both can run max output off the same tank without excessive tank cooling from expansion

I did not use banjos. I has trouble figuring how to attach to my brewstand in a manner that would allow removal. Instead I went with the camp chef 60k "cloverleaf"

I was able to twist fit them so they can be removed for rig updates painting or powder coating

FishFace said:

I have two 60k burners running of the same tank. The both use the same 10 psi reg that goes to 3/8" pipe. Then splits. Each burner has it's own needle valve. Both can run max output off the same tank without excessive tank cooling from expansion

I did not use banjos. I has trouble figuring how to attach to my brewstand in a manner that would allow removal. Instead I went with the camp chef 60k "cloverleaf"

I was able to twist fit them so they can be removed for rig updates painting or powder coating

Click to expand...

Are your burners Hi or low pressure? I am having issues with my low pressure 6" bg12 burners running off a 10 psi regulator. I also have a ball valve for on/off control for each burner and a gate valve for precision control of the flame.

I'm running 3 of these on my stand wth a 30 psi regulator. Working great so far.

http://www.agrisupply.com/bg-high-pressure-cast-iron-burner-/p/64494/cn/5400000/

Yeah I use those. They drink propane.

BendBrewer said:

Yeah I use those. They drink propane.

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I've not noticed any difference compared to the single Bayou Banjo I used before.

Paulasaurus said:

I've not noticed any difference compared to the single Bayou Banjo I used before.

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Aren't they the same thing?

I never got the chance to compare them side by side but the shape seems to be a little different. I thought one had a different shaped/length neck on it.

How many batches can you get out of a 20 lb lp tank?

Sorry for the hijack op. I also use ball valves for controlling my burners and its working good.

Yeah, I don't know. I thought they were the same burner.

From the link:

In our 60-quart MegaPot, this burner was able to boil ten gallons of water (at 100 F) in 45 minutes - using only two pounds of propane.

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100 to boiling and using 2 pounds of gas? That's drinking.

Hmmm, I'm getting almost 3- 10 gallon batches out of a 20 lb tank.

I've gotta convert mine to ng soon I think.

J-Malone said:

Are your burners Hi or low pressure? I am having issues with my low pressure 6" bg12 burners running off a 10 psi regulator. I also have a ball valve for on/off control for each burner and a gate valve for precision control of the flame.

Click to expand...

I have the high pressure. Camp chef dropped the reg to 10psi, which reduced output, but when I crank them, the flame covers the bottom. I don't think going any hotter will help. I get water boiled, and wort boiled no problem.

I'll get +10ºF a minute, starting at around 50ºF to boil is under 20min.

FishFace said:

I have the high pressure. Camp chef dropped the reg to 10psi, which reduced output, but when I crank them, the flame covers the bottom. I don't think going any hotter will help. I get water boiled, and wort boiled no problem.

I'll get +10ºF a minute, starting at around 50ºF to boil is under 20min.

Click to expand...

Would you mind posting a pic of your gas plumbing? I am working on mine and this might be helpful...

thanks

Paulasaurus said:

I'm running 3 of these on my stand wth a 30 psi regulator. Working great so far.

http://www.agrisupply.com/bg-high-pressure-cast-iron-burner-/p/64494/cn/5400000/

Click to expand...

Do they come with the propane orfice? Also what about the air plate on the bottom? Which 30psi reg are you using?

Paulasaurus said:

Sorry for the hijack op.

Click to expand...

Its ok, its all good info

Paulasaurus said:

I've not noticed any difference compared to the single Bayou Banjo I used before.

Click to expand...

im guessing the majority of these banjo burners are all the same, these small companies selling them just buy them from a large manufacturer that sells to many retail shops, youd have to be a large shop to be able to incur the expenses in setting up a casting facility to make those.

Ive noticed that some people use needle valves to control the flow, alot of the needle valves i am seeing are pretty small and could contribute to restricting flow and increasing boil time, i think i will be using ball valves and just make some fancy handles for them.

Another question, whats the point of using a 3 piece stainless ball valve rather than using just a 2 piece? Im sourcing all my parts right no and just dont see the need for a 10,000psi 3 piece ball valve that will never see any kind of pressure. I know the 3 piece are rebuildable, but in this application i dont see cycing that valve hundreds of thousands of times. Im talking about the keggle transfer valves. For the burners im going to use brass ones i allready have.

doctorsbro said:

Do they come with the propane orfice? Also what about the air plate on the bottom? Which 30psi reg are you using?

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Yes, the burners from agri supply do come with a propane orifice and the air control disc.

I'm using this this regulator-http://www.agrisupply.com/high-pressure-adjustable-regulator-valve/p/64484/cn/5400001/

Here's a link to my buddies brewery thread. We built two identical stands- https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f85/life-story-my-brewery-212838/index4.html

J-Malone said:

Would you mind posting a pic of your gas plumbing? I am working on mine and this might be helpful...

thanks

Click to expand...

I will if can( probably have to upgrade). But in the meantime. Here is a verbal. Took 10 psi reg and attached to new longer hose. This hose had a 1/4" end. Simple fitting brass of course brought up to 3/8". I had to find aplace that sold 3/8" galvanized and bought a 22" section. It then gets t' d to two different directions. There I put the needle valves with the hose sections that came with the burners to the burners. Both can blow max @ 60k, but are seldomly used that way.

FishFace said:

I will if can( probably have to upgrade). But in the meantime. Here is a verbal. Took 10 psi reg and attached to new longer hose. This hose had a 1/4" end. Simple fitting brass of course brought up to 3/8". I had to find aplace that sold 3/8" galvanized and bought a 22" section. It then gets t' d to two different directions. There I put the needle valves with the hose sections that came with the burners to the burners. Both can blow max @ 60k, but are seldomly used that way.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I have a very similar setup. I am using gate valves instead of needle. I changed a connection at the very beginning (got a brass 3/8-1/2 reducer flare) and that apparently stopped the leaking issue I was having last night that was causing the tiny flame. I tested it tonight and it was all good, with the low pressure orifices...

but let me ask this...What would the difference in the flame be if I switched to high pressure orifice? Would I need to change anything in the setup?

I shot some video on my flip cam and I am uploading to youtube now, I will try and post it here if it gets done any time soon...