Temp Control Circuit & Control Panel Help Needed

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Yavid

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I'm currently building a single tier brew stand with temp control and I need a little help figuring out my control panel. The basic circuit for controlling my burners was taken from this post:

attachment.php


I've copied the schematic below (please note that Auber has informed me that the PID should be a SYL4342, not a SLY4352 as called up in the schematic)

attachment.php


I would like to add a button/switch to this circuit so that the burner will not fire unless the switch has been turned on. I think if I put a switch between pin 7 of the PID and pin TH-W on the S8610U things would work the way I want them too, however I have no idea what switch I need to do so. I really like the look of these though:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=328

Can someone who knows more about this stuff please give me a hand finding a push button switch that will work in this circuit? It would be much appreciated.

My brewstand will have two of the above circuits (one for the MLT and one for the HLT). The kettle will have a similar setup but without the PID (simple push button on and push button off). I could use some help figuring this out also.

Lastly I will have 2 switches/buttons to turn my pumps on and off and another button/switch/keyed switch to kill power to the whole unit. Below is an image of what I'm thinking.

attachment.php


I don't know much about this stuff so any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I am a CADD technologist and am fairly proficient with AutoCAD and Autodesk Inventor so if I can repay your help by drawing something up or doing some 3D modeling for you please let me know.

Gas_Control.jpg
 
I'm currently building a single tier brew stand with temp control and I need a little help figuring out my control panel. The basic circuit for controlling my burners was taken from this post:

I've copied the schematic below (please note that Auber has informed me that the PID should be a SYL4342, not a SLY4352 as called up in the schematic)

I would like to add a button/switch to this circuit so that the burner will not fire unless the switch has been turned on. I think if I put a switch between pin 7 of the PID and pin TH-W on the S8610U things would work the way I want them too, however I have no idea what switch I need to do so. I really like the look of these though:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=328

Can someone who knows more about this stuff please give me a hand finding a push button switch that will work in this circuit? It would be much appreciated.

My brewstand will have two of the above circuits (one for the MLT and one for the HLT). The kettle will have a similar setup but without the PID (simple push button on and push button off). I could use some help figuring this out also.

Lastly I will have 2 switches/buttons to turn my pumps on and off and another button/switch/keyed switch to kill power to the whole unit. Below is an image of what I'm thinking.

I don't know much about this stuff so any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I am a CADD technologist and am fairly proficient with AutoCAD and Autodesk Inventor so if I can repay your help by drawing something up or doing some 3D modeling for you please let me know.

The switch you like is used to control 110VAC and not 24VDC. The circuit you're trying to put it inline with is a 24VDC circuit. It will most likely work just fine, but the led backlight for the switch may appear dim or not work at all. You're best bet is to place it inline with the hot leg going to your 110VAC to 24VDC transformer which is powering the loop between the pilot ignitor, PID, and ignition module. This will completely de-energize the ignition module loop and allow you more peace of mind rather than just shorting the loop. Think of it as unplugging a lamp rather than switching a lamp off. When you switch off a lamp, the power cord still has power available. When you unplug that same lamp, it is completely de-energized and you could stick a fork in its bulb socket and be totally safe. Also, since you're now controlling the 110VAC with the switch all of its led bling will be on full display. Please see the picture I have attached.

Gas_Control.jpg
 
Thanks for the help. I'll have to use 3 separate 24V transformers instead of just using 1 like I was going to (found one with a high enough rating that it will power up to 3 of the controllers/gas valves I will be using). I think that's OK though.

Thanks again.
 

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