Auber SYL-2352 Basic Help for first timer

I have the SYL-2352 PID Controller hooked up to RTD and SSR. They are hooked up correctly to my knowledge.

I have power running off a switch into 7 & 8
SSR is hooked up to 9 & 10 from terminal 4 & 3 on the SSR
RTD is - White wire #5, RED to #3 & #4


When I power the unit on my PV= 1257 My SV=50

I set it to Auto-tune ( I think) and it should be measuring ambient temperature.

Can someone walk me through exactly what they would do if they powered this thing up for the first time with an RTD connected. My device does not show a SSR is connect nor does the red LED on the SSR light up either.

Thanks

Ranger9913 said:

I have the SYL-2352 PID Controller hooked up to RTD and SSR. They are hooked up correctly to my knowledge.

I have power running off a switch into 7 & 8
SSR is hooked up to 9 & 10 from terminal 4 & 3 on the SSR
RTD is - White wire #5, RED to #3 & #4


When I power the unit on my PV= 1257 My SV=50

I set it to Auto-tune ( I think) and it should be measuring ambient temperature.

Can someone walk me through exactly what they would do if they powered this thing up for the first time with an RTD connected. My device does not show a SSR is connect nor does the red LED on the SSR light up either.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Well, first things first. Your PV is way off. Swap #3 and #5

Edit- Is this being used to cool or heat?

NM, looking at the manual you have the RTD wired right. It is set up wrong in the configs.

Change the Sn parameter to 21.

wow as soon as i did that it's reading 64* which is true. Also it clicked over to A/m with the green light.

This means I'm now on Auto right?

If the A/M light is on then it is in Auto.

What are you using it for?

right now I'm using just to test my connections and power is correct. I was going to setup a light socket with a bulb and use it to simulate a heater element. I have a coffee cup warmer that I was going to put the probe in and try and get it to cycle.

Good/Bad Idea? Can I run this setup in manual mode to simulate a boil?

I'll be reading this closely as I ordered the exact same things to run my new-to-me RIMS tube.

Is this the same or similar equipment as in the bling bling thread? I currently have a 5500W element installed into my 10G SS cooker and I'm getting ready to setup the PID/SSR/etc when I actually order them that is so I'm kinda keeping my eye on any threads dealing with it.

Ok I went ahead with my lightbulb test and it worked perfectly. My ambient temp was 64* and I set the PID to 75* and the light bulb turned on. When the water in my coffee cup rose to 76* it cycled off the light. Obviously for someone who understand a PID controller this is laughable but for just reading about PID's for the first time last weekend I feel like this really helped me understand the process.


CodeRage how did you know to set the Sn to 21?

Yes I'm copying the bling bling thread part for part.

Ranger9913 said:

Ok I went ahead with my lightbulb test and it worked perfectly. My ambient temp was 64* and I set the PID to 75* and the light bulb turned on. When the water in my coffee cup rose to 76* it cycled off the light. Obviously for someone who understand a PID controller this is laughable but for just reading about PID's for the first time last weekend I feel like this really helped me understand the process.


CodeRage how did you know to set the Sn to 21?

Click to expand...

I read the manual.... You asked:cross: The majority of RTDs are pt100's so just cross reffed it in the manual.

That and this isn't my first rodeo with these guys.

I've got a thread about configuring a similar one for a kegerator. I'll do another one this weekend on how to set a 2352 up for heating.

Ah yes, now that I know what to look for I see this plain as day in the manual.

Help CodeRage! Why is mine trying to heat past the setpoint? I think i have tried it all. How do you do a factory reset? Cant find that in the manual.

lschiavo said:

Help CodeRage! Why is mine trying to heat past the setpoint? I think i have tried it all. How do you do a factory reset? Cant find that in the manual.

Click to expand...

auber has it online.

Did you tune the PID yet?
If not, or if you have it's out of tune and needs to be re-done.
have t set to 0
and set At to 3. In 10 seconds it will start auto tunning. You'll know this because it will flash At. It will run up and down a few times around the setpoint. once AT is no longer flashing it is done. It is best to set the SV a few degrees above the PV, otherwise the I gets to be some ridiculous number.

I did AT several times. It seemed to work when I first tried. Today it is messed up. For example I had the SV at 125 the PV was reading 131 and the controller was cycling the element. Quick on/off cycles. I tried resetting P,I,D to original and it did not help. Is this thing more than I need for a HLT?

It's for an HLT and not a RIMS?

You can get away with a hysteresis type set up.

Set P to 100
I to 0
D to 0

It will cycle some as it gets close to the set point. Take note of how much it overshoots.

CodeRage said:

It's for an HLT and not a RIMS?

You can get away with a hysteresis type set up.

Set P to 100
I to 0
D to 0

It will cycle some as it gets close to the set point. Take note of how much it overshoots.

Click to expand...

Yes, I am controlling my HLT element with it.

Thanks for the help. I was able to reset all paramaters per the manual and do another AT and it seems to work now. Somehow, I had one paramater way off from the preset value.

We did a batch last night and heated strike and sparge water and all worked well. I like this controller again now

You seem quite knowledgable with these controllers. Is the SYL overkill for heating my HLT? What would you use? I am heating strike, sparge and will soon have a HERMS coil installed to recirc the mash. I was planning to use another SYL to control the recirc pump.

Thanks again.

Good to hear.

I don't think it is overkill, it gives you a little more control of how it heats. Unlike a RIMS though you can store a lot of energy in the HLT water. You can also dump a ton of energy into the large volume of water and the temp rise is pretty slow Can't overshoot too much. You could get away with the cheaper multi purpose SYL controller with fixed on and off set points.

RIMS on the other hand you are trying to match power output in a small volume at a given flow rate. So PID control is important. If it is a small HERMS unit a PID may be beneficial because there is less volume to buffer the heat exchange.

For the Herms, just leave the recirc pump running and maintain the desired mash temp in the HLT/HERMS unit. No need to cycle the pump to heat the mash because the mash will never get hotter than the water in the HERMS unit.

The probe placement on the HERMS is important. I would put PV probe into the HERMS/HLT to monitor water temps. People have put them in the output of the HERMS coil with working results but, you are adding lag to the process loop.

A cheap ebay or auber pid and a long probe RTD would be a good investment to put into the mash tun to monitor the mash temps, no control.

Question:
I have my Auber PID, an SSR and an RTD probe for my RIMS. I do not have a heatsink.
Is there a generic heatsink at Radio Shack or somewhere or do I need to order one online?

Not controlling the pump will simplify things a lot. I have a 1/2 bbl keg for my HLT so I should have plenty of thermal potential. I plan to recycle my immersion chiller for the HEX coil (60-ft of 3/8 copper). Just tried the new Therminator last night...awesome!

So, Just a switched outlet for the pump and one temp controller. I like it. I do have another SYL and probe I can use to monitor the mash temp. Where is the best placement for this probe in the MLT?

thanks again.