Control Panel wiring help.

This is my first real post on the forums, but have gather a ton of brewing knowledge from here. So first off, thank you everyone, HBT and PJ for the wiring diagrams.

I have already purchased and put together all my parts for an my ebrew system.

1 pot, maybe 2 eventually to get boil and mash
1 PID, 1 SSR, 1 contactor, 1 estop

I have everything wired up already, with a main switch for the PID, selector switch for the element (eventually going to go with 2 PIDs so I bought for expansion in the future) and a LED indicator light for the element being on.

I have read a bunch on here and know a bit about electrical circuits (not an expert mind you) and would like someone to take a look at my wiring.

I have a neutral going into the left side of the contactor that's T-off into the indicator light. Is this OK practice to T off, or run a separate line from the power block?

For line 1 into the PID power switch, and element switch, I used a line from the power block, to a fuse, then split out to each switch.

For the main lines, power block to SSR, contactor, element and such I used stranded AWG 10 THHN. For the PID power, LED contactor coil I ripped apart a 120v power strip and used those wires. So for anything providing power to the element I used 10 THHN, everything else I used the power strip wire. Will this be OK since I'm not running much into there? I also used this wire for the neutral. Ground is AWG 10 as well.

As of right now, nothing is soldered. Just using tape to keep things together until I confirm the wiring is complete.

I am using the auberins PID box. It has enough room for 1 element, but doesn't seem Ok for 2. Again, just using this for now until I move up to a more permanent solution.

I do have GFCI on this as well. I'm not stupid...

Does anyone have any insight on this?

Does the power strip wire have a gauge marked on it?

Your diagram looks good. That should accomplish exactly what you are hoping.

My only recommendation would be to add fuses to protect the power strip wire. The size of the fuses would be based on the size of the wire.

What's the deal on the E-stop?

It is a current limited circuit designed to trip the GFCI on his breaker.

TrainSafe said:

It is a current limited circuit designed to trip the GFCI on his breaker.

Click to expand...

Sounds good, a round about way of getting there.

I have fuses between the power block and the PID / switches. Should there be more? I have a 5 fuse strip with 3 available so I can add where needed. What do you recommend?

Tyrant said:

I have fuses between the power block and the PID / switches. Should there be more? I have a 5 fuse strip with 3 available so I can add where needed. What do you recommend?

Click to expand...

That looks fine, happy brewing!

Thanks. I don't have a 240 line in my house yet so I have to hold off until thats complete. Want to get a pumpkin ale going.

Quick question.

Would it be possible to bridge the 2 hots and run this on 120v temporarily until I get a 240 installed?

Is there enough power running the 240v SSR and contactor? Im not exactly sure how this works. Does it require a 240v input to apply power to the element?

I understand the element will not run at 5500w with the PID running as well, but it will at least get me started.

You could but it won't get the heat you want. If all you want to do is test your system you could do that with 120v. I didn't realize that in this day and age that there are places that don't have 240v.

Sweet. Ill have to make this happen then.

My house was built for everything gas, so no 240 was ever put in. There is a 30amp 3 prong circuit in the garage and was thinking of just bringing it into the house, but I want a legit 4 prong with proper grounding. Don't want to do the spa panel thing.

About how much would it cost for 10/4 for about 100ft with correct breakers?

I bridged the 2 hot lines at the terminal blocks, plugged it in and voila! Flipped the PID switch and everything came on like a champ. Flipped the contactor switch and clank! turned on the indicator light and contactor.

I finally drilled the hole in my pot and am letting the JB weld dry on the element box before I go for a test wet run. Ill start a new thread once I get it in production to show my progress. Hopefully going to brew tomorrow after work.

Thanks for the help everyone.