Manual ignition for boil kettle

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Mob_Barley

Mob_Barley

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I've already decided on the Honeywell intermittent ignition control for my MT and HLT, but don't know what I need to set up the boil kettle. I will be using Banjo burners which will be low pressure propane. I have a switch set up on my control panel for the BK burner, but would like some help with exactly what I need to buy (part numbers would be helpful as well).

Thanks for the help...
 
When I started out with gas I used those 120 volt powered gas stove ignitor systems then off to the "El Cheapo" curb side BBQ impuse spark ignitors. Simple and cheap. Don't even think about the carbide loop glow ignitors like Honeywell home furnaces use, they are brittle and break besides expensive. Went the way once also.
 
What about the piezoelectric igniters that the propane bbq's use? They are about $9.00.

base_media



Another option could be one of these Flo-Glo 120 Volt Igniters

http://www.flo-glo.com/products_electronic_video2.htm
 
I think the best option would be to use another honeywell intermittent ignitor like you have on your MLT and HLT. Instead of the controller, just use the switch to turn on and off.
 
So I would only need the Ignition module and pilot burner with a low pressure regulator (since I won't be using the control valve)?
 
You would still use the control valve in what I am imagining. I don't know what models you are using, but basically, you would flip the switch, then power would be supplied to the module which tells the pilot to spark, and opens the valve providing propane to the main burner.

It would probably help if you told us what modules you are using.
 
I was planning on using these from the post: Gas and temperature control for dummies.

Other posts I read say that the boil kettle has a manual ignition. I'm assuming that the flow of LP is adjusted with a valve near the burner and the pressure is regulated with a low pressure regulator in-line. It's just the pilot and manual ignition that I don't understand yet.
 
What I am talking about is replacing the PID in Sawdust's schematic with a switch. That is all.

Alternatively, you can use a match and manually manipulate the shut off valve.
 

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