tjash
Well-Known Member
So, I've been trolling the Electric Brewing forum for the last month or so contemplating various builds and have really enjoyed seeing all the different approaches people have taken. I feel fairly confident that I could make do with some of the wiring diagrams P-J and others have put out there, but if anyone is willing to tackle a specific design for me, I'd appreciate it!
My concept is a compact (toolbox or auber enclosure sized), portable controller that I can switch between brewing and smoking applications. I brew 5 gal no-sparge BIAB, so my starting volumes are in the 8-9 gal range, which gives me around 7.5 gal boil volume. I'd like to run 2-2000W elements on separate 20A circuits. One should be controlled by a PID/SSR, the other I want to be simple on/off. 1 pump for recirc & transfer. E-stop to kill it all via GFCI trip.
Here's how I see a brew day going:
1. Connect 2 extension cords to controller power inlets from 2 GFCI 20A 110v circuits
2. Connect 2 elements, pump, and RTD sensor to controller outlets
3. Energize PID-driven element and manual element
4. -5 deg from strike temp, secure manual element
6. Dough in, energize recirc and allow PID element to maintain mash temp
7. Raise to mash-out via PID element
8. Lift/drain bag, switch PID element to PWM, energize manual element
9. Achieve boil, secure manual element, maintain boil via PID/PWM element.
10. Gravity drain or pump to no-chill cube or fermenter
Controller should have:
2x 20A 110v inlets
1x PID/SSR
3x control switches (PID-element, manual element, pump)
1x alarm/switch
2x 20A 110v outlets (elements)
1x ?A 110v outlet (pump)
1x RTD sensor connection
1x E-stop
The Catch - I'd like to use the PID-element outlet from the controller, plug in a smoker fan and take advantage of the PID for overnight cooks. Basically, connect a separate RTD, plug in the fan, set the temp, and walk away. Fan controls airflow to the coal bed to regulate heat.
So - Is that reasonable? Or would I need a switch and 4th outlet? Between the SSR and the PID? After the SSR?
Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
tjash
My concept is a compact (toolbox or auber enclosure sized), portable controller that I can switch between brewing and smoking applications. I brew 5 gal no-sparge BIAB, so my starting volumes are in the 8-9 gal range, which gives me around 7.5 gal boil volume. I'd like to run 2-2000W elements on separate 20A circuits. One should be controlled by a PID/SSR, the other I want to be simple on/off. 1 pump for recirc & transfer. E-stop to kill it all via GFCI trip.
Here's how I see a brew day going:
1. Connect 2 extension cords to controller power inlets from 2 GFCI 20A 110v circuits
2. Connect 2 elements, pump, and RTD sensor to controller outlets
3. Energize PID-driven element and manual element
4. -5 deg from strike temp, secure manual element
6. Dough in, energize recirc and allow PID element to maintain mash temp
7. Raise to mash-out via PID element
8. Lift/drain bag, switch PID element to PWM, energize manual element
9. Achieve boil, secure manual element, maintain boil via PID/PWM element.
10. Gravity drain or pump to no-chill cube or fermenter
Controller should have:
2x 20A 110v inlets
1x PID/SSR
3x control switches (PID-element, manual element, pump)
1x alarm/switch
2x 20A 110v outlets (elements)
1x ?A 110v outlet (pump)
1x RTD sensor connection
1x E-stop
The Catch - I'd like to use the PID-element outlet from the controller, plug in a smoker fan and take advantage of the PID for overnight cooks. Basically, connect a separate RTD, plug in the fan, set the temp, and walk away. Fan controls airflow to the coal bed to regulate heat.
So - Is that reasonable? Or would I need a switch and 4th outlet? Between the SSR and the PID? After the SSR?
Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
tjash