Apartment brewing: eBIAB + all-in-a-toolbox system

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Gabrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
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Location
Montreal
Hello All,

Just wanted to share my apartment based all grain system. This is basically a recirculation eBIAB sytem powered by 2000W 120V element. Having only one vessel and one control panel to move around makes brewing a breeze when space is confined. Although efficiency is rather low 60-65%, beers are turning out great! I would have to say that the only downside to this system is my limitation to brewing high gravity beers, although this can be "fixed" using extract at the boil...

Bayou Classic SS pot 36Qrt with basket
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Fittings installed (bargain fittings)
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Element enclosure
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RTD cable: wrapped & welded to xlr connector
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Toolbox
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Control Box modifications
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Vessel
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Recirculation return + whirlpool
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Very nice. I don't know how comfortable I am with the pump being inside the control panel. One leak and the panel is smoked.
 
Thnx. Ya, for the pump in the toolbox. I was really stressed for the first couple of brews, I would check every 30mins to make sure there were no leaks. After every brew session, I double check each connection. Everything good so far.
 
Sweet build. You could always upgrade to a bigger pot and transfer over your fittings if you get the big-grav itch.
 
Oh, right, wasn't thinking. Derp. The typical psuedo dunk sparges and stuff could help a little bit, but yeah you're limited. Still a great build.

What, you don't want a single tier monster in your Apartment dining room? :p
 
Actually, I built this system last year. But because it's at my parent's house, I never brew as often as I like, so I built my eBIAB setup until I get my own place.

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You should use a male plug at the element end. Right now your cord has the male end which means the prongs are hot.
 
Yeah...because all my cables are removable. I make sure to plug the element cord before the control panel cord. Its a good point which I had not thought through.
 
Your power input mounted on the controller also appears to be a female receptacle. That means you raw power from your source is on the prongs of a male plug.

You REALLY need to change that. You are flirting with a disaster.
 
Gabrew said:
True, but then I'd have to go with 240V or become very patient...

I do 7 gallon boils with two 2000w camco elements no problem. In fact, with an insulated BK, I turn off one element once I get to boil. You don't need 240. :)

And sweet build ('cept for the previously noted death trap issues)!
 
Once again, these are important details which I had not envisioned during the build. I am aware of the potential hazard of having unconnected power cords and the fact that having male connectors on them is far from smart. However, by respecting a simple connection procedure (1- connect element to control panel, 2- connect control panel to power outlet) I should not encounter any problems.

Thanks for the comments!
 
Once again, these are important details which I had not envisioned during the build. I am aware of the potential hazard of having unconnected power cords and the fact that having male connectors on them is far from smart. However, by respecting a simple connection procedure (1- connect element to control panel, 2- connect control panel to power outlet) I should not encounter any problems.

Thanks for the comments!
All well and good.

However: I really hope you survive the eventual tragic brew day.

Please rethink this whole issue!

PLEASE.! You are playing "You bet your life!".
 
A busy, hectic brew day when things start to go wrong...you will forget your simple procedure. Speaking as an electrical maint tech, that is a disaster waiting to happen; especially if there is ever any one else around when you brew, or heaven forbid a child.
 
Dude, just fix it so that you do not catch yourself one day sitting in a drunken state wondering how your friend or guest died from accidentally grabbing one of those cords/connections.
 
In all fairness its only 120v, so....
I agree its probably unsafe though.
I know its that amps that kill.
 
Looks great; I'm hoping to make something similar. How did you make the thermowell/sensor?
 
What is your batch size and how long does it take to get to strike/boil? do you get a good vigorous boil?

I've been considering do a 2000w 120v brewery but am not sure if it's enough power.
 
@deadcactus: actually there is not thermowell. I used an rtd which I installed at the outlet of my ball valve using a T fitting (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=189&zenid=018a9da82ff922922ef17e21d8d7c4e8). Because I continously recirculate (strike temp, mash, cooling), this gives me very consistant and accurate temperature control. As for the boil, since the PID is set in manual mode, there is no need for RTD readings.

@themiller: Hope this helps, although all my measurements are in metric --> (max) stike volume is 25L, this leaves me with a pre boil volume of 23L (depending on grain qty). After boil, I end up with 18-19L of wort. Strike temps takes about 30-40mins when using cold tap water (at around 4 degrees C). The boils are good, my evaporation rates are spot on and once the boil starts, I dial down the element output to 85-90% to maintain a good rolling boil.

@moutainman13: Thanks!!!

@mux: I have used this system 5 times in the past month. It takes half the time to brew compared to my Brutus-type setup. Cleaning is a breeze and the beers are great!
 
Gabrew said:
@deadcactus: actually there is not thermowell. I used an rtd which I installed at the outlet of my ball valve using a T fitting (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=189&zenid=018a9da82ff922922ef17e21d8d7c4e8). Because I continously recirculate (strike temp, mash, cooling), this gives me very consistant and accurate temperature control. As for the boil, since the PID is set in manual mode, there is no need for RTD readings.

@themiller: Hope this helps, although all my measurements are in metric --> (max) stike volume is 25L, this leaves me with a pre boil volume of 23L (depending on grain qty). After boil, I end up with 18-19L of wort. Strike temps takes about 30-40mins when using cold tap water (at around 4 degrees C). The boils are good, my evaporation rates are spot on and once the boil starts, I dial down the element output to 85-90% to maintain a good rolling boil.

@moutainman13: Thanks!!!

@mux: I have used this system 5 times in the past month. It takes half the time to brew compared to my Brutus-type setup. Cleaning is a breeze and the beers are great!

I have a 3 vessel electric system that I haven't gotten attached to, your build is awesome. I am really leaning towards building a copycat. Hope you don't mind.
 
I think we're on the same level. I'll be glad to lend you some help if you've got any questions! As you can see from the first page of this thread, I've done some stuff that dreadfully wrong according to some, so if you are going to go my route, make sure you bring over these safety changes.

The only drawback I see with this system is the limitation to brewing high gravity beers. Even if you decide on using max amount of grains and lowering strike volume, problem is your mash will be way too thick. Although it is possible to boil for a very long period of time (not recommended), I simply add some malt extract when I want to reach high alcohol levels. Expect effeciency in the range of 65% (which also plays a lot on the extract you get out of your grain bill).
 
Gabrew said:
I think we're on the same level. I'll be glad to lend you some help if you've got any questions! As you can see from the first page of this thread, I've done some stuff that dreadfully wrong according to some, so if you are going to go my route, make sure you bring over these safety changes.

The only drawback I see with this system is the limitation to brewing high gravity beers. Even if you decide on using max amount of grains and lowering strike volume, problem is your mash will be way too thick. Although it is possible to boil for a very long period of time (not recommended), I simply add some malt extract when I want to reach high alcohol levels. Expect effeciency in the range of 65% (which also plays a lot on the extract you get out of your grain bill).

I was looking at bayou classics website and they have larger pots. May go that route. I like that you can BIAB and the bag can sit in the basket. Much easier to pull out wet grain.
 
Exactly!

However, with the basket you loose the potential of using more grain (less dead space), but I feel more confident with the use of a basket when having an element at the bottom of the kettle. If you have access to 240V, then go ahead with a larger pot = more possibilities!
 
Gabrew said:
Exactly!

However, with the basket you loose the potential of using more grain (less dead space), but I feel more confident with the use of a basket when having an element at the bottom of the kettle. If you have access to 240V, then go ahead with a larger pot = more possibilities!

Yeah- my current system runs on 240.
 
@themiller: Hope this helps, although all my measurements are in metric --> (max) stike volume is 25L, this leaves me with a pre boil volume of 23L (depending on grain qty). After boil, I end up with 18-19L of wort. Strike temps takes about 30-40mins when using cold tap water (at around 4 degrees C). The boils are good, my evaporation rates are spot on and once the boil starts, I dial down the element output to 85-90% to maintain a good rolling boil.

That does help.. thanks! I'm a cannuck too so it makes more sense to me then gallons :).

I tend to go a bit bigger, strike volume 34L, start of boil 28L ending at 23L.. but I could easily dial it down a bit if the 2000W isn't enough.

Now to find a 2000W element locally... I've looked at HD, Home Hardware, etc. in Ottawa but no luck yet.. they all seem to have 1500W (120V) only.
 
Yeah, for the element. I had to go online. I used a copper rheem element. Cost around 20 with shipping, which is quite ok considering how hard it is to find stuff here.
 
Yeah, for the element. I had to go online. I used a copper rheem element. Cost around 20 with shipping, which is quite ok considering how hard it is to find stuff here.

Where did you order from? I haven't found a Canadian supplier.
 
There are guys using ULWD elements that report the bag is not affected by contacting them. That's what I've ordered are two 1500W Camco icoloy foldback elements.
 
Do you just open your windows for ventilation / not worry about the moisture? I've been debating how to solve the ventilation topic. I'm in an apartment as well (making a bigger 240v system though). Don't see how I'd use a big hood. Maybe just rig up a duct to my stand.
 
Yeah. I've thought about that. Could attach a cone/small hood to my stand, and just have the ducting be removable for when not brewing.
 
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