Building a cool room

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babalu87

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In the planning stages of building a cool room in the basement.
My basement gets pretty warm (near 80) during parts of June then July and August and we want a place to keep both wines and beers at a more stable temperature all year.

Going to install a window AC in one wall and build the room using rough cut full 2X4's so I can have extra insulation, walls will be skinned in OSB.

Room will be 9 X 6 feet and have one door.

Any feedback ideas would be appreciated

Coolroom.jpg
 
A couple of things come to mind:
First, how close will the wall be to the boiler? My guess is far enough, so...
Second, why are you using rough cut 2x4's? I would guess that you already have them or they're free. 2X6 walls will give you better insulation. All of the insulation I've seen is 3 1/2" or 5 1/2" to accomodate standard lumber. The amount you gain can easily be lost by crushing/not utilizing the insulation. If you can, the blow in foam that they cut is the bomb. Also, your door will fit funny unless you modify it.
Third, You might want to consider putting your AC unit on the same side as your boiler if there is a drain to pipe to so you don't have to have a bucket. Not only that, but if it's too close to the door, it's a PITA.
Fourth, Make sure that the AC unit you get actually cycles on and off. My compressor shuts down, but the fan runs continuously.

The above comments are lessons I learned when I built my cold room. I used 2x6 walls on 3 sides. I sealed it with caulk. I put a cheap exterior metal door on it. If you turn out the lights, it is absolutely dark. You have to close the door slowly, because it literally pressurizes the space. You won't need that big of a unit to keep an 80F room at say 65F. However, this could easily be used/converted to an ale fermentation room with a constant temp of ~68F. Then, a lager chamber is a breeze to put in a room that stays 68F. Incrementalism is very costly and inefficient. Let us know how it turns out. Luck - Dwain

2 things: I just saw your post count. You are well aware of incrementalism. The second thing is, what about moving it over to the stairs. You might gain some space by using the area underneath them (fine place for a lager chamber).
 
Dwain thanks for the tips.
There is already storage under the stairs that I built.
We can also put shelves/racks on the outside of the cool room for our larder (canned goods etc.) This is the best utilization of the space for us.

Its is a quick rough sketch and yes the AC will go on the side that the boiler is on.
Code calls for that wall to be 6" from the boiler and I'll be over double that.
I'll control the AC with a digital controller that way I can leave it on full blast and just let it cycle.
Yes, it wont require much in the way of BTU capacity and I'm actually getting a 5000 btu for free to cool it.
Might decide to go with 6" walls but this should be a very efficient room to keep cool even with 3 1/2" walls. It is on the North side of the house and part of the reason our basement gets so warm is the bulkhead door but that will be corrected as part of this project.

Thanks for the feedback
 
Your going to need to install a vapor barrior prior to building out any walls. Then walls with unfaced fiberglass insulation (ceiling too)and MR drywall. Tape, seal or and caulk all joints, transitions and door perimeters.

If you look at wine cellar construction, that would be a good start.

I built a few wine cellars( 10x12) and with the proper construction and a simple wall mounted cooling unit, they maintain 53 degrees.

The main concern you'll have is mold issues. That is why it is so important to get your insulation and vapor barrior right!

Good luck

Bull
 
You can't switch an A/C unit with a PID, at least directly. You would have to add either a contactor or SSR. So, if you add up the cost of a PID control, relay and temp probe, you would be better off just using a simpler controller or even a room thermostat. I use a cheap electronic programmable thermostat (<$30 at HD), with a 40va 24 volt transformer and a relay. Total cost under $50. The programmable stat allows setting a minimum off time to eliminate short cycling on a sudden draft of warm air, like when I open the door on a 100+ day to bring in some carboys.
 
You can't switch an A/C unit with a PID, at least directly. You would have to add either a contactor or SSR. So, if you add up the cost of a PID control, relay and temp probe, you would be better off just using a simpler controller or even a room thermostat. I use a cheap electronic programmable thermostat (<$30 at HD), with a 40va 24 volt transformer and a relay. Total cost under $50. The programmable stat allows setting a minimum off time to eliminate short cycling on a sudden draft of warm air, like when I open the door on a 100+ day to bring in some carboys.


My point was (as is your point) there are cheaper ways
Even using a PID its only another $20 for an SSR

I do have a thermostat as you have mentioned and am thinking of using that as well.
 
Just remember the most bang for your buck will be spent on insulation. The above post from bullinachinashop had very good advice. Moiture resistant drywall will hold up better than OSB, which can absorb and retain moisture, and eventually rot. OSB should be fine for the outer walls, of course. If you really want to maximize the insulation, consider sheathing the interior with foam sheets on the studs, and drywall to cover. With your size room, you could do it with 4 sheets.
 
So I am going to spend 3X what a 5000 btu window costs to control it?

Sorry, I didn't mean to piss you off about the cost. I just happened to find this while seaching for a way to cool the room my dad is building. Forget I mentioned it
 
So I am going to spend 3X what a 5000 btu window costs to control it?

Sorry, I didn't mean to piss you off about the cost. I just happened to find this while seaching for a way to cool the room my dad is building. Forget I mentioned it

Not pissed off but for $300.00 I could buy three AC's
 
So I am going to spend 3X what a 5000 btu window costs to control it?

These are $40.00
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=1d5b55b1997cff3be16805901c500a71
Add the probe and its still less than $60.00


I have started to look into this for a cold room I am building. I think the advantage of using the coolbot is that the cool bot has a heater probe on it. It connects to the temp probe on the air conditioner and tricks it into thinking the room is 65+ degrees so the air conditioner stays on. It also has a frost sensor so the it will stop the air conditioner from freezing up.

It would take a bunch of extra work, and materials to do that with a PID. Plus any modifications to the air conditioner will void the warranty. If you use the coolbot you do not void the warranty.

I am looking for a cheap way to build my room but I am also looking to save some time on figuring it all out and building it. Has anyone been able to make this type of system work well with a PID?
 
Bump...

Thanks for the ColdBot link. Good stuff. I am all for DYI but also not an electrical engineer!!

I am adding a 2-story addition to my house and want to plan for a cold room if possible, with through-the-wall taps to the bar on the other side.

Any of you who have built a cold room care to share your pics?

Thanks!
 
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