My brew-stand

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Huaco

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
1,361
Reaction score
155
Location
Just south of Cow Town
I have decided to make a clone to this entire system and I have started building the brew-stand already. I got started Saturday evening about 5pm cutting wood the best I could with a speed square and circle saw. By midnight, this is what I had...

Brew Stand mock-up.jpg
 
Not bad. I'm excited to start my own as well. Subscribed to watch the progress.
 
Thanks to Kal and "The Electric Brewery" website for the inspiration and also for being so great to answer all my questions so far... I'm sure there will be many more questions. Especially when I start running wire and components to/from my control panel.
Also... I just got my 50 Amp 240 Volt breaker and recepticle installed in my garage last week. I need to build a 30' extension out of 10-4 so I can brew in the drive way on pretty days... My electrician buddy went ahead and ran 6-4 wire to the outlet just in case I wanted to really draw some juice through the plug in the future! MAN... 6 ga. conductors are HUGE!
 
I plan to actually cut the keg BOTTOMS out and use TriClover fittings on the keg bung for bottom drain kettles. This will require boring large holes through the top of the bench, but I think it will be worth it to have all bottom draining vessels.
 
I like the idea of bottom drains going right through the deck. Keep the pictures coming.
 
I am pondering the hole diameter needed for fittings and such on the triclover clamps passing through the deck of my stand. What I have in mind is attaching the fittings to the keg first and then feeding it through the top of the brew stand. What size hole would need to be cut to accommodate plenty of clearance from the wood to the tri-clamp hardware?
 
Bump... Anybody have any good ideas about my question in post #9?
I offset my beam from the center line of the brew sculpture in anticipation of bottom draining through the bench top.

It took me all evening, but I got all the slats drilled with pilot holes, countersunk and screwed down. I also mounded an additional beam across the top to help with the load of the grain and water. THIS THING IS STOUT! No need posting a progress picture tonight. It would look too much like the photo I started with. I sanded the top tonight as well. Once I get it all sanded down I will stain and seal it and post a picture of that. Oh... I also took a hand plane and broke all the sharp corners and edges. You can tell they were hand planed and not routered, but I don't care... I am no good with a plane but it gives it some character. This is going to be nice to brew on.
 
I am pondering the hole diameter needed for fittings and such on the triclover clamps passing through the deck of my stand. What I have in mind is attaching the fittings to the keg first and then feeding it through the top of the brew stand. What size hole would need to be cut to accommodate plenty of clearance from the wood to the tri-clamp hardware?

I haven't done this kind of setup, but I'd recommend a 4" hole saw. Since the weight of the keg is going to be supported by the 16" rim, I don't think you really have to worry about making the hole too big.

You could always cut a 4" hole in a scrap piece of wood and see if that would work for you.
 
Looks good so far. I like the idea of an electric system, but I started a Brutus 10 clone mid last summer and have used it 10-12 times so far. I just added my second pump and splash shield and I am pretty much done with it. a few more things I will tweek.
I agree with LandoLincoln - use a scrap to test but I wouldn't worry about going to big, you might have a need to reach underthere and mess with something and you would need the room. can't tell if you have cross supports for the weight but if you do then the holes won't matter.
 
So, I ran over to Lowes today and was sorely disappointing to realize that ~22 foot /$25 remnant of 10-3 flexible power cord I saw the other day was already picked up by someone else... However, I had someone help me (from another department... the electricity department dude never showed up in 5 minutes of me standing there looking at the mass storage of cable) This lady spooled off 20 feet of flexible 10-3 and wrote down some obscure lowes product code. I went about shopping for a few more things and checked out. It wasn't till I got home (half-hour drive) that I looked at the receipt. She must have written down the wrong code or something. What should have been $35 worth of wire was actually only charged at $8!!!
 
So, I ran over to Lowes today and was sorely disappointing to realize that ~22 foot /$25 remnant of 10-3 flexible power cord I saw the other day was already picked up by someone else... However, I had someone help me (from another department... the electricity department dude never showed up in 5 minutes of me standing there looking at the mass storage of cable) This lady spooled off 20 feet of flexible 10-3 and wrote down some obscure lowes product code. I went about shopping for a few more things and checked out. It wasn't till I got home (half-hour drive) that I looked at the receipt. She must have written down the wrong code or something. What should have been $35 worth of wire was actually only charged at $8!!!

I don't mess with brewing karma like that. I was at the self-serve propane station outside my local Menard's picking up a spare tank for my brewing setup and the system only charged me for a refill when I was picking up a whole tank. I thought about just walking away, but I didn't want that negative karma on my brew system. Sure, call me silly, but YOU'LL see. My next batch of beer is going to be kickass.
 
I don't mess with brewing karma like that. I was at the self-serve propane station outside my local Menard's picking up a spare tank for my brewing setup and the system only charged me for a refill when I was picking up a whole tank. I thought about just walking away, but I didn't want that negative karma on my brew system. Sure, call me silly, but YOU'LL see. My next batch of beer is going to be kickass.

Problem is, this store is a 30 minute drive from me. I am NOT driving 60 miles round trip to right a wrong of a non existent imployee. Besides, I don't believe in that karma hocus-pocus crap...
 
I built the supply cords for my heating elements. This is 10/3 wire covered with a protective/decorative sheath and 3/4" heat-shrink wrap on the ends to keep the ends from migrating... The NEMA L6-30 plugs will connect into receptacles in the control panel while the other end will be connected to the 4500W ultra low watt density heating elements.

A few evenings ago, I started on building the boxes to house the elements. The Keggles will all be bonded back to the house ground.

Friday at lunch I went to the electrical supply house and picked up 30 feet of 8/4 wire to make my 50 amp main power cable. Wow... are they ever proud of copper these days!!! Holy smokes!

Today I got my element boxes finished to the point of putting elements in them... unfortunately, I purchased 5500W elements and then decided to build a "Back-to-Back" electric brewery. I need to sell these elements now. I re-ordered some 4500W elements and it is just hurry up and wait now 'till my new elements come in.
I also built a GIGANTIC 30 foot extension cord for my rig. I am waiting for the special connector for the other end to come in... This connector is 3" diameter. I guess when you get up to 50 Amps, you want PLENTY of insulation from that current. The cord is 8/4 cable and is bigger than my thumb! I just REALLY wanted to be able to brew outside in the driveway on nice days.
318W-8mYGaL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Heat-Element Boxes (Large).jpg


Element Boxes (Large).jpg


Heating Element cables (Large).jpg


Extension Plug (Large).jpg
 
Tonight, I finally put together all the pieces of my stir plate I have been meaning to build. I may have to bump up to a 7V power supply because the 5V just barely puckers the surface of the water with 4L in the flask. I am afraid it won't do much of anything with a yeast starter in it...

Stir Plate 4L Water (Large).jpg
 
Today I figured out it is going to take 12 Volts to make my 5L flask get a get decent little 1" vortex for my starters...
Also, I finished my element units up to the point of just dropping in the element and sealing the element with silicone. I already have the ground wire attached and the ring terminals on the wires... The 4500W elements just shipped today so I have a few days to wait until I am finished with those for good.
 
Not much today... I removed the spears from all my kegs as well as a keg of my buddies. Man, those kegs were NASTY inside! Major big stink! Filled them up with water and sloshed them about pretty vigorously... Keg cutting will happen soon!

Also, here is a nice shot of my "almost-finished" heating element components.

2012-04-25 22.35.41 (Large).jpg


2012-04-25 22.36.13 (Large).jpg
 
I was talking with the guy that runs out CNC plasma cutting table at work. He said the plasma machine will actually extend past the "table" part by 2-3 feet. This friday, I will take my kegs up to work and have cnc plasma-cut openings cut in the ends of my kegs!!! I will take some pix to share. Of course I offered the guy some of my homebrew as "payment" and he got real excited about that!
 
I got my tri-clamps, gaskets and block-off plates in the mail the other day. I CAREFULLY shaved the bump off one side on each gasket with a razor blade so that it lay flat on the keg bung. This is a water tight connection!!! YES!!!
I then filled one of the kegs up with water and put it up on the brew stand. (YES... IT WAS HEAVY!) It looks like I will be able to get away with a 4" diameter hole for my bottom drain idea to work. I should be getting my control panel kit in a week or two. I am going nuts wanting to work on my brewery... I guess I can cut the holes in my table top and stain and seal them. I also need to take the kegs up to work and cut the openings in the tops with the plasma cutter and start putting my holes in the keggles... Ahh. still lots of work to do to my keggles...

Water-Tight Keg (Large).jpg
 
I got this connector in the mail yesterday and was able to finish building the extension cable for my back to back control panel. This thing is ridiculously HUGE! But... I guess one would want to have plenty of insulation between the electricity and flesh...

Brewery Extension Cable (Large).jpg
 
I opened up my keggles today. The CNC plasma cutter would not work to cut these afterall and that left me with no choice but to figure out how to use the hand-held plasma cutter. I think these turned out ok for hand-held cutting... I was also able to use a flapper disk on a grinder to knock off the slag and smooth out the edges.
I also opened up a buddies Boil keggle. He is just going to use one for extract brewing in bigger batches.

KEGGLE CUT 1 (Large).jpg


KEGGLE CUT 2 (Large).jpg


KEGGLE CUT 3 (Large).jpg


KEGGLE CUT 4 (Large).jpg
 
Lookin GREAT! Can't wait to see how it turns out. Great deal at Lowes by the way... it might have been on purpose due to the wait. They're usually pretty cool like that.

By the way, i hate you... i hate anyone that can weild a welding/cutting/plasma torch well out of 100% jealousy. They came out looking really, really good!

Edit: After frustrations with the grinder flap disks not getting a smooth don't-cut-your-hand-off lip on my keggle cuts, i ended up trying the roughest sandpaper with my orbital on highest speed... baby soft-smooth and quick. Any tips on the flap disk though? I think i used 80 grit but it just tore it up (even after grinding off as much of the sharp parts as i could)... maybe i just got a crummy disk.
 
Lookin GREAT! Can't wait to see how it turns out. Great deal at Lowes by the way... it might have been on purpose due to the wait. They're usually pretty cool like that.

By the way, i hate you... i hate anyone that can weild a welding/cutting/plasma torch well out of 100% jealousy. They came out looking really, really good!

Edit: After frustrations with the grinder flap disks not getting a smooth don't-cut-your-hand-off lip on my keggle cuts, i ended up trying the roughest sandpaper with my orbital on highest speed... baby soft-smooth and quick. Any tips on the flap disk though? I think i used 80 grit but it just tore it up (even after grinding off as much of the sharp parts as i could)... maybe i just got a crummy disk.

I don't know man. This wa so my first time to ever use a plasma cutter. Also the flapper disks I used were 40 grit. Just took my time and didnt press real hard. I want to use the drop from yhe kegs to make a false bottom.
I hope to polish the hlt and bk. Well probably insulate the mlt somehow.
 
I spent about an hour and a half this evening and went with an idea I had to make a false bottom out of the keg bottom I cut out of one of my keggles. As soon as my phone decides it is done backing up I will post a picture...
 
The FB is 12-3/4" diameter. I laid out 1/16" slots radially. 66 slots all total. I put it in the bottom of the keg and pushed down in the center. NO BUDGE AT ALL! I think this thing will handle quite a large mash...

False Bottom(Large).jpg


Keg Bottom Clean(Large).jpg


False Bottom in Keg(Large).jpg


False Bottom Gaps(Large).jpg
 
I calculated my open space. On the 12-3/4" diameter FB, I have 13^2 in open area. Surely that is enough open area to be useful on this scale...

Also...
My control panel kit came in yesterday from Kal (actually Spike Innovations). Boy-howdy. It is a bit intimidating to open it all up and see it PACKED with components that all have to be wired together.
This is a water-tight electrical enclosure 16"Wx20"Hx8"D.

Here is a tentative layout. I have a buddy that is going to Water Jet the panel door for me... once I get it laid out and give him the DXF file...

Controller-001.jpg


Controller Open-001.jpg


Controller Packed-001.jpg


Temp Cables-001.jpg


Layout 1.jpg
 
That is awesome! Subbed. Please keep the pics coming, especially the build of Kal's controll panel kit.
 
Finished assembling the temperature sensor cables. Built as outlined on Kal's site. I reinforced them with stainless steel stranded wire and overlaid them with two layers of the expandable plastic mesh. shrink wrapped each end and put on an XLR3 connector to finish it all off. Soldering is interesting to learn. I checked continuity all along and actually found my soldered joints to be good.

Temp Probe Cables (Large).jpg
 
Just got a picture from my buddy that water-jet cut my panel. CAN NOT WAIT TO GET THIS BACK!:ban:

The only change I made from my dimensioned drawing is that I moved the temp probe XLR inputs back to the bottom of the enclosure.

panel_front_1_layout_164.jpg


PANEL FRONT CUT.jpg
 
I did something similar for my false bottom.

I ended up added a few hundred .096 dia holes to it as well. After one or two stuck mashes the time at the drill press was well spent..
 
I did something similar for my false bottom.

I ended up added a few hundred .096 dia holes to it as well. After one or two stuck mashes the time at the drill press was well spent..

Can you please post a picture of what you did? I would like to see it.
 
Spent some time on Dad's drill press with my hole saws this afternoon. I got all the openings for the electrical recepticals cut. I have (3) temp sensors, (2) heating elements, (2) pumps, and (1) main power in at 240V and 50 Amps.

Electrical Recepticals (Large).jpg
 
The panel door arrived today! I installed all the panel components as a test fit mock-up. It all worked very well except the volt and amp meters. I ended up having to knock off some material with just a few minutes of file work.

I also preped, primed and painted the panel door. I am not sure what happened, but in the middle of the panel the paint will not get a "Sheen" like the remainder of the panel. I noticed a little difference in the way the primer looked in that spot. I wonder if I had some primer come up the feed tube that was not fully mixed or something and laid down more solids there... I will wait 'till tomorrow to see what it looks like and if it is not better I will sand the door and reapply.

Also, I got my 2" TriClamp to 1/2" NPTF adapters in the mail today. I have 3" pipe nipples on order too.

Control Panel Mock-Up (Large).jpg


Control Panel Painted (Large).jpg
 
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