New Replacement for March Pump

CoolHandLuke said:

The one thing I can not find (or maybe I overlooked it) was whether the AC-3CP-MD pump motor is sealed? I know it's not submersible, but I was hoping to close the comparison between it with optional parts and the LG 3-MD-HC.

Thanks for your participation at HBT, Walter!

Based on the previous post, the BC-3 is a sealed magnet while the AC-3cp-MD is exposed? So apples to apples with the LG 3-MD-HC would be a BC-3CP-MD with the optional parts, correct?

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Walter may over rule me but loking at the manual online for the 3 series motors:
ELECTRICAL:
Models are 115 Volt or 230 Volt, 60Hz or 50/60Hz, 1
phase, A.C. motors. The motors are thermal overload
protected and have sealed ball bearings, which allows the
pump to be run continuously.

So i think you're good there.

Also it is my understanding that you are replacing the impeller either way regardless of which modle you buy AC or BC so the question is are the magnets open or sealed in the impeller in the polysulfone material?

BK_BREWERY said:

Walter may over rule me but loking at the manual online for the 3 series motors:
ELECTRICAL:
Models are 115 Volt or 230 Volt, 60Hz or 50/60Hz, 1
phase, A.C. motors. The motors are thermal overload
protected and have sealed ball bearings, which allows the
pump to be run continuously.

So i think you're good there.

Also it is my understanding that you are replacing the impeller either way regardless of which modle you buy AC or BC so the question is are the magnets open or sealed in the impeller in the polysulfone material?

Click to expand...

I'm querying the motor itself. Is it vulnerable to small spills, etc...

CoolHandLuke said:

I'm querying the motor itself. Is it vulnerable to small spills, etc...

Click to expand...

ahhh yes, too quick on my part, then we eagerly await walters response.....

Thanks again walter!

CoolHandLuke, are you thinking the LG pump motors are sealed? or are you asking if this is another reason to buy the march pump?

This is from LG manual online regarding the motors:
These pumps are not submersible. Operate the pumps only in
the in-line mode. Do not put the units in liquid. Pump should be installed in a dry area and protected from splash. These pumps are not
self priming models. They must be installed so that the pump head (volute) is flooded at the time the pump is to be started. Do not
restrict the intake side of the pump. Connections on the intake side should not be of smaller inside diameter pipe or tubing or hose
than the intake inside diameter of the intake thread designation. If reduced flow is required restrict the discharge side. Installing a
valve or other type of restriction device on the discharge side is the proper method for reducing flow from the pump. When using a
valve the pump can be throttled to provide various flow rates and pressures without harming the motor or the pump parts.
The pump should not be installed in a manner that will subject it to splashing or spraying.

CoolHandLuke said:

The one thing I can not find (or maybe I overlooked it) was whether the AC-3CP-MD pump motor is sealed? I know it's not submersible, but I was hoping to close the comparison between it with optional parts and the LG 3-MD-HC.

Thanks for your participation at HBT, Walter!

Based on the previous post, the BC-3 is a sealed magnet while the AC-3cp-MD is exposed? So apples to apples with the LG 3-MD-HC would be a BC-3CP-MD with the optional parts, correct?

Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by "sealed" The motor on both is a "BC" style or "Blast cooled" Meaning there is a fan blade on the outside of the motor and forcing air across the outside of the motor housing. There is a fan cover on the back to keep your fingers from getting caught in the fan. From the pictures of the LG pump, its the same motor we have on ours. On our motor, there are no openings in the body of the motor for "stuff" to get into. But its not on the same level as a TEFC type of motor. So if you are in a wet environment or high dust area, some "suff " "may" still get inside...but it will be minimal. If you wanted something more "robust" that needs a "sealed" motor then I would go for our TE-MDX-MT3 that has a TEFC motor or Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled. This ordinarily means that the motor is dust tight, and has a moderate water seal as well. Notice that TEFC motors are not secure against high pressure water. For these applications, consider the "wash down" motor, which is usually designed to withstand regular washing, such as found in a food processing facility.
The TE-MDX-MT3:
Made out of Ryton plastic rated for 200*F and does 8.4 gpm and can do 7.3psi or 17' of head height.

Or the TE-5C-MD which is made out of Polypro and does 18gpm and 29' of head height. and rated to 190*F. and if you need the ultimate plastic pump package get teh TE-5 with the 5B Polysulfone pump head to with stand the 250*temps....you next step up would be full stainless!

Cant do apples to apples with the LG....if you wanted to try and compare them, the LG falls right between our BC-3 and our BC-4. I suspect the size of the LG is slightly larger then our #3 and smaller then our #4.

-Walter

Sorry if i dont reply fast enough for everyone....i do this during work and get pulled away during my typing of responces to answer engineering phone calls, Fix returns/repairs, Do warranty evaluations....and to top it off i have UL here today doing their annual inspection! wonder what he'll find this time!

-Walter

WalterAtMarchPump said:

Sorry if i dont reply fast enough for everyone....i do this during work and get pulled away during my typing of responces to answer engineering phone calls, Fix returns/repairs, Do warranty evaluations....and to top it off i have UL here today doing their annual inspection! wonder what he'll find this time!

-Walter

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Thanks a bunch for the clarification. Now who at your company do we need to escalate your time management priorities to ensure sub-second responses to all HBT queries?!?! LOL!


Seriously. Thanks!

CoolHandLuke said:

Thanks a bunch for the clarification. Now who at your company do we need to escalate your time management priorities to ensure sub-second responses to all HBT queries?!?! LOL!


Seriously. Thanks!

Click to expand...

I allready have all the thread subscriptions set to instant! LOL
Only person i report to is the owner of the company...thats the nice thing about a family run business!

-Walter

I just used my new Chugger for the first time Monday on two brews. It worked great until u pumped my sparge water to my hlt. It would cavitate with 4-5 feet head pressure. All my plumbing is 1/2". The only restriction is a thermometer i have in a tee on the inlet. I'm wondering if I moved it to the outlet if that would improve flow. 4-5 feet sucks though when it's advertised to get something like 10 feet. USA Pumps wants me to send it to them for eval, but if I can save shipping it to them by fixing any problems myself that would be great. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

I noticed sometimes it workes better than other times. Sometimes it wil just stop pumping forno reason. If I shut it off and restart it workes great again. I don't have it mounted or anything yet so I'm thinkin a bubble gets in the head. But it does the job when I eliminate all human error ill repost

First thing that I did with mine was take the whole head assembly apart and checked all clearances and tolerances and so far I haven't had an issue. I did have to adjust the magnet.

DakotaRules said:

First thing that I did with mine was take the whole head assembly apart and checked all clearances and tolerances and so far I haven't had an issue. I did have to adjust the magnet.

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What did you do to the magnet?

The main thing when adjusting the magnet is to make sure that there is clearance between the magnet and the rear housing and that it is close enough. I made sure that I had about 1 - 1-1/2 mm of clearance and the magnet turned freely.

I hope that helps but I know it sounds vague too.

Did you shim the magnet with washers? If I get time tonight I think I'm going to move the thermometer to the outlet side of the pump from the inlet. It may be what is causing the cavitation.

Islandboy85 said:

Did you shim the magnet with washers? If I get time tonight I think I'm going to move the thermometer to the outlet side of the pump from the inlet. It may be what is causing the cavitation.

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If the toolbox side is tapered correct the thickness with thin washers to keep the pump head in line with the motor.
If your rubbing with the pump head screwed directly to the motor connecting adapter then you need to loosen the set screw and slide the drive magnet closer to the motor. Depending on how much motor shaft end play this also must be added.

Joe:

no idea what you did ...but I have no problem sending youa new one free of charge ....WE WANT ALL OF OUR CUSTOMERS HAPPY !!!...CALL ME GIVE ME YOUR ADDRESS I WIL SEND TODAY

On my Chugger pump I rotated the end cover to the next set of mounting holes and noticed a .012" to .015" out of concenteric to the impeller magnet.
The pump body impeller post is not concentric to the pump machined housing.
The end cover must be indexed and assembled in the best position to be concentric or near as can be without any rubbing problems. Using a March plastic head everything is concentric no rubbing problems.
If your going to "chit can" your stainless pump head for a March replacement head can I have first dibs?

YO...email me I will hook you up [email protected]

I would really like to see it ....you can drop it at any UPS store ..I will give you my UPS NUMBER to ship collect ..call me for it

If your not interested thats fine but as I said we strive to make everyone happy ..no matter what ...

Ok, I wanted to be sure it wasn't my fault that the pump was cavitating. I moved my inline thermometer to the output side. This solved about 90 percent of the problems I had last week brewing. The other 10 percent may be attributed to bumping things, crappy priming, stepping on hoses, or whatever clutsy thing I did today. I didn't check pump housing or magnet for freeplay yet. After I brewed I did a little test while circulating some PBW through everything. I had the pump running wide open and had awesome flow at 8 feet off the ground in my bathroom. That's plenty high for me.

So, I just want to say that the pump isn't as bad as I previously thought. The USA Pump guys are very quick to respond to any e-mails and e-bay questions. They're quite willing to help you out. Very impressive. I'll let you know if there is any other issues.