bblack7489
Well-Known Member
Ok, there a lot of threads on this topic with a lot of posts in each. I'm looking for a concise answer on this instead of wading through hundreds of pages about why it's scary that someone's electrician said that a GFCI wouldn't work on a 240V circuit that doesn't have a neutral line.
I want to have one power supply to my brewing control box. I have a 50A "welder" outlet and circuit in my garage that I'm planning to tie into, but I would also like my brewing rig to be portable. Theoretically, I would really like to have a breaker box with a GFCI installed on my rig that could act as a cutoff and lockout for the entire system.
I plan on running two pumps, a stir motor or two and a 4500W heating element using SSRs. What is the clean way to protect this circuit?
The typical 240V spa GFCI option that monitors the two load lines won't work if I turn something on that only uses 120V. Similarly, monitoring each load with respect to the neutral line won't work because my 240 heating element isn't sinking current to the neutral line.
Is there a third option? Or should I just replace my 240 breaker with a GFCI breaker and constrain myself to that one outlet?
I know that there should be a straightforward answer to this because I know that plenty people out there are running mixed voltage electronics boxes. Any thoughts?
I want to have one power supply to my brewing control box. I have a 50A "welder" outlet and circuit in my garage that I'm planning to tie into, but I would also like my brewing rig to be portable. Theoretically, I would really like to have a breaker box with a GFCI installed on my rig that could act as a cutoff and lockout for the entire system.
I plan on running two pumps, a stir motor or two and a 4500W heating element using SSRs. What is the clean way to protect this circuit?
The typical 240V spa GFCI option that monitors the two load lines won't work if I turn something on that only uses 120V. Similarly, monitoring each load with respect to the neutral line won't work because my 240 heating element isn't sinking current to the neutral line.
Is there a third option? Or should I just replace my 240 breaker with a GFCI breaker and constrain myself to that one outlet?
I know that there should be a straightforward answer to this because I know that plenty people out there are running mixed voltage electronics boxes. Any thoughts?