Will a Temperature Controller ruin a chest freezer?

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wizardofza

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I'm in the process of looking for a temperature controller for my chest freezer/kegerator conversion project I'm doing.

I've read that if you don't select the correct controller that the constant on/off of the freezer can shorten its lifespan.

Has anyone heard or experienced this?

Also, does anyone have a recommendation on the type of controller I should think about buying?

Any tips would be great.

Thanks.
 
I don't see it being an issue. The analog Johnson controller that I use has a temp rise window of 5 degrees F., meaning that it doesn't kick on every time it falls a degree---it only comes on after it falls 5 degrees.

Furthermore, once my freezer is at temp, it takes a long time to warm up. I'll be sitting down in my brewshop and not hear it come on for hours.

Think about it for a second, though: without the temp controller, the freezer still cuts on and off trying to keep the temp at whatever the freezing temp is. So what if it's 30 degrees higher? It still has to maintain a temp in the same manner. Actually, given that most spaces are warmer, it seems like it would be EASIER to keep it at 38f than it would be to keep it at freezing or lower, and thus, it would cut on/off less often, not more.
 
Ditto. Mine cuts on about once every 2 hours and I am using a Johnson also. If you use Ranco then you can set your variance. Aslong as you don't do something like set it to 2 degrees you should be golden.
 
Since you are setting the temperature of your kegger higher than what would be normal (be it a chest freezer or fridge), the controller will cycle less often than the internal thermostat would have.
 
You can further prevent frequent cycling by putting your controller probe in a small volume of water. Even something like a white labs vile would be good. This keep the probe from warming up 5+ degrees when you open the lid for some reason. It's a short time frame buffer.
 
As others have said, you'll be fine. I have a Ranco ETC-111000 controller I got off Ebay and I'm really very happy with it.
 
I have heard that most chest freezer problems (with or without a controller) are due to using extension cords with the incorrect guage. (Cord is too thin and too long.)

My Ranco has a pretty fat cord. If you wire your own, I'd look into that and I'd avoid using a cheap extension cord.


I'll see if I can find a post here to back me up.
 
Ok, you guys put my mind at ease. :) I don't even remember where I read this in the first place.

I'll see if I can find a Ranco out there for a good deal.

I figured that alot of people already went down this road and I wanted to be better safe than sorry.
 
olllllo said:
I have heard that most chest freezer problems (with or without a controller) are due to using extension cords with the incorrect guage. (Cord is too thin and too long.)...

I'd read that, too. I used a standard 12/3 pigtail found at any hardware store. Mine's a 3-foot cord. I'd avoid anything longer.
 
All of the temp controllers, Ranco and Johnson, both have a 4 or 5 minute dead time, regardless of what you set the differential at, so that they won't burn out the compressor.
 
It will cycle more at freezing temps than at 65 degrees because there is a larger temperature differentiation from inside to outside.
 
olllllo said:
I have heard that most chest freezer problems (with or without a controller) are due to using extension cords with the incorrect guage. (Cord is too thin and too long.)

My Ranco has a pretty fat cord. If you wire your own, I'd look into that and I'd avoid using a cheap extension cord.
Definitely use a heavy gauge cord on induction motor type equipment that has a heavy start current (dehumidifiers, fridges, freezers, etc.). In Nova Scotia it is electrical code that fridges need to be on their own circuit because they draw such a heavy amperage on start-up.

As far as the controller, as long it has a sensible deadband, you should be OK. You don't want the thing coming on every 5 min for 15 min.
 
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