DIY Mash Tuns: Pros and cons of cube vs. "gatorade" style?

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moxie

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Hello, new all-grain brewer here. I am trying to figure out what the best route would be as far as a cooler for a DIY mash tun. What are some pros and cons when comparing the gatorade style round coolers with the rectangular box ones? Are there any practical differences? Efficiency differences? Cost differences? I would most likely be doing 5 gallon batches but have the capacity to ferment 10 at a time if need be. Is there any particular brand I should look for/be weary of?

MashTun1.jpg


Vs.

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I chose the rectangular cooler simply because there are going to be those times where you're going to want to do a batch that requires too big of a mash to fit inside of the round mash tuns. I know a lot of people go with the Igloo Maxcold. Here is the youtube video of the one that I made . I made that exact one and I'm now on my 40'th batch or so with it still standing strong.
 
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I have a friend that's looking to build a mash tun this summer. Could you post a written version of the supply list?
 
Look in the DIY section of this forum for more information, including a list and pics of mash tun options. I use a 10 gallon cooler from The Home Depot, which works very well for five gallon batches, and also for bigger 5 gallon beer batches. I preheated mine during my first all-grain batch, and it held my mash temperature very well. I used a braided stainless steel hose as a filter, worked great!
 
This is a valuable link with a supply/cost list even.

As far as what to get... I tried to jump in AG for a while but being a broke college student I didn't think I could afford the parts. I kept patient and one fine day I found a rubbermaid cooler at Savers for $6, then build the manifold for ~$12 (True Value is cheeeaaaap) and I was ready for all-grain.

As far as practicality/efficiency questions, I feel you will get a different opinion from everybody. The most important thing to keep in mind (in my book) is to get one that is a proper size so you won't get too much headspace. If the steam has somewhere to go the mash won't keep a constant temperature. Had a problem with that for a while before I figured it out.

Hope that helps and good luck!
 
I actually have the parts list that I made from watching that video up top stuck as a bookmark in my How to Brew book. If I get some time I'll post, but I made that list from watching that video. Mr. Brown tells you everything you need including parts #'s.
 
I found the rectangular coolers to be slightly less expensive and easier to find compared to a 10 gallon round cooler. Don't bother with a 5 gallon cooler unless you have no plans to make a stronger than average beer or ever want to make a 10 gallon batch.

One advantage of the round cooler is that false bottoms are easy to find. However, it's easier to build a manifold for a rectangular cooler.

Other than that I don't see any other difference. In general I would say it's more about preference and what's most readily available.
 
I found the rectangular coolers to be slightly less expensive and easier to find compared to a 10 gallon round cooler. Don't bother with a 5 gallon cooler unless you have no plans to make a stronger than average beer or ever want to make a 10 gallon batch.

One advantage of the round cooler is that false bottoms are easy to find. However, it's easier to build a manifold for a rectangular cooler.

Other than that I don't see any other difference. In general I would say it's more about preference and what's most readily available.

+1

I went with a 48 qt and to be honest with you, I wish I would've went with a 60 qt. You're not going to lose much temp due to a lower thermal mass if you have a quality cooler. The biggest batch I've done in my 48 qt was a double batch of Ed's Porter (I think 25 lbs of grain) and although it was a tight fit, it did fit. I also don't know if I would go with a copper manifold again simply because I think a cpvc one would work just as well and cost significantly less.

GL
 
+1

I went with a 48 qt and to be honest with you, I wish I would've went with a 60 qt. You're not going to lose much temp due to a lower thermal mass if you have a quality cooler. The biggest batch I've done in my 48 qt was a double batch of Ed's Porter (I think 25 lbs of grain) and although it was a tight fit, it did fit. I also don't know if I would go with a copper manifold again simply because I think a cpvc one would work just as well and cost significantly less.

GL

I agree with this completely. Buy a good cooler regardless of which you choose. I use a relatively cheap cooler and it sucks for holding temp and looses about 5 degrees over an hour without opening the lid. I also agree there is no need for a copper manifold, use cpvc. It's easier to work with and cheaper.
 
I ended up going with the round style for both my 5 and 10 gallon versions. Most of the cube style ones I saw either had an ackward hump where the drain was, or had no drain at all. Being in an apartment with no real power tools, a Gott cooler was the simplest build for me. Just pop out the spigot and its ready for the bulkhead.

All the parts you need for the bulkhead can be found at bargainfittings.com. If you price out everything at the hardware store, you might save a few bucks, but the kits there have everything you need. Plus, things like silicone O rings are tough to come by in quantities less than 100 count. All you need after that is a section of CPVC and some elbows.
 
Some great info in here so far.

Any preference between a copper/fitted manifold, or one of those soft braided steel lines? Looks like you can get a prefab cooler conversion kit from bargainfittings.com, maybe for the sake of simplicity and to be confident that everything is "food grade" I will just go with that. Anyone ordered the "Cooler Weldless Bulkhead" kit from them? Does that include all the hardware I need other than the manifold/braided line?
 
I ended up going with the round style for both my 5 and 10 gallon versions. Most of the cube style ones I saw either had an ackward hump where the drain was, or had no drain at all. Being in an apartment with no real power tools, a Gott cooler was the simplest build for me. Just pop out the spigot and its ready for the bulkhead.

All the parts you need for the bulkhead can be found at bargainfittings.com. If you price out everything at the hardware store, you might save a few bucks, but the kits there have everything you need. Plus, things like silicone O rings are tough to come by in quantities less than 100 count. All you need after that is a section of CPVC and some elbows.

I completely forgot about that guy. I've never ordered from him, but I know a lot of people on here have. I believe he's a fellow homebrewer which is always nice. Also, if you're really looking for ease, I'd just go with a complete kit from that guy (probably save you money and a headache depending on how diy you are). I think that for around $42 + shipping, you can have all of the things you need to make your mash tun. I can tell you right now that the mash tun I made (same as in that video) cost double that easy.
 
I prefer a manifold as the braided steel lines are too fragile for my liking. I have used both. Also I find my manifold is less likely to clog. The weldless cooler bulkhead should be everything you need if it includes the vavle and barb fitting.
 
Here is a couple of pics of mine.

IMG_3472.jpg

IMG_3475.jpg

IMG_3476.jpg


I've never had any problems with it, and it usually loses around 1*F/hour when filled with a typical 5G batch. I made it exactly like in that video. The best part about building a manifold of this quality is that it will not only fit in almost every cooler, but it will last a very long time (forever?).
 
I went with the 10g gatorade style and followed the DIY instructions of FlyGuy.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

I have put about 12 batches through it so far and it works great. I went with this type for 2 reasons. Firstly, lots of people have tried it and it is proven that it works. Secondly, I remember reading somewhere that round coolers keep the heat better than the square ones. Not sure if that is totally accurate though. I use no other type of insulation over the cooler and never drop more than 1-2 degress over the 60 minutes.
 
That's a crazy cooler. It's like a G.I. Joe cooler.

Lol.
It's an "Outdoors Cooler" I picked up from Academy. I think it's made to stay cooler longer?

Why the 'S' turn? Wouldn't turning the manifold 180 and going straight be a bit better/easier?

I guess it would, but I didn't think of that when I was making it. Lautering isn't too slow and I tend to get around 85% effeciency or better, so I'd say it works just fine. I will say that bending that thing to the perfect bend was a pain in the butt. All in all, I'm happy with how it turned out. I would definitely recommend this style to a friend if they wanted to go all out.
 
+1

I went with a 48 qt and to be honest with you, I wish I would've went with a 60 qt. You're not going to lose much temp due to a lower thermal mass if you have a quality cooler. The biggest batch I've done in my 48 qt was a double batch of Ed's Porter (I think 25 lbs of grain) and although it was a tight fit, it did fit. I also don't know if I would go with a copper manifold again simply because I think a cpvc one would work just as well and cost significantly less.

GL

I've mashed 30 lbs of grain with 38 qts of water in my 48 qt igloo. It was filled to the very top. But would not take any more. but it fit.
 
I would really like to go with a brass manifold (I have read some issues about the weight of the grain compressing the steel braided lines and blocking flow) but I don't have a pipe cutter, torch, flux, OR a dremel tool. :drunk: Is there such a thing as slip on fittings for this type of project that require no soldering? I am pretty sure I could MacGyver the filter part of the manifold with a hacksaw, but to keep costs down, I don't really want to invest in the tools. Would CPVC be better in my case?

Alternatively, I would be intrigued to buy a proven mash tun from those of you who have since moved on to bigger and better things. Buying a prefab one sort of takes the fun out of it from the mad scientist standpoint, but I am trying to make good beer here, not whip something up with wrong tools/etc like a schmuck. Maybe even just the copper manifold as that would be more realistic as far as shipping goes, so long as it fits in the cooler I will be using. CT currently has THIS cooler on sale. I have no problem with the ball valve/etc, I just don't have the tools to make a quality manifold.

Another question I had was about keeping these things clean. Is it customary to pull all fittings apart after a mash to clean them up, or is it as simple as running some hot water/iodophor/etc through it?
 
I would really like to go with a brass manifold (I have read some issues about the weight of the grain compressing the steel braided lines and blocking flow) but I don't have a pipe cutter, torch, flux, OR a dremel tool. :drunk: Is there such a thing as slip on fittings for this type of project that require no soldering? I am pretty sure I could MacGyver the filter part of the manifold with a hacksaw, but to keep costs down, I don't really want to invest in the tools. Would CPVC be better in my case?

Alternatively, I would be intrigued to buy a proven mash tun from those of you who have since moved on to bigger and better things. Buying a prefab one sort of takes the fun out of it from the mad scientist standpoint, but I am trying to make good beer here, not whip something up with wrong tools/etc like a schmuck. Maybe even just the copper manifold as that would be more realistic as far as shipping goes, so long as it fits in the cooler I will be using. CT currently has THIS cooler on sale. I have no problem with the ball valve/etc, I just don't have the tools to make a quality manifold.

Another question I had was about keeping these things clean. Is it customary to pull all fittings apart after a mash to clean them up, or is it as simple as running some hot water/iodophor/etc through it?

First, if you like to DIY, buy a torch, flux, solder, and pipe cutter b/c you won't only need it for this project, but also when you make your chiller. I had to buy all of that for this project, and I've used it a few times since. I used a hacksaw for the slits in the bottom. It really doesn't take more than a front porch/patio and a few common tools to make this project. Although CPVC is cheaper and easier, it's not the same quality. So I guess the question is between quality or ease. My routine when brewing is usally finish sparging then put kettle on burner and clean mash tun out. I usally remove all of the grain, spray out the inside, then spray the hose through the open ball valve which usually gets all of the junk out. The slits in the bottom of the manifold made by the saw are too small for most stuff to fit in, so it's not that big of an issue.

Regarding that cooler you showed, I think it's the same as mine. You must make sure that it has a spigot though.
 
I went with the igloo 5gal in the pic. 10gal rubbermade gott cost way too much here also I would only do 5 gal batches and no big beer. I like my beer to be around 4-5% alc range. I figured 5gal cooler would be enough for this.
I think the round cooler tends to be narrower thus deeper. If you fly sperge, I think it works better.

I went with copper manifold, I just fit them in to all the fitting without solder. take it apart to clean, only tools I used were, pipe cutter and hack saw.
I used to use false bottom but i had too much dead space, where manifold would suck most of the wort out.
 
I would really like to go with a brass manifold (I have read some issues about the weight of the grain compressing the steel braided lines and blocking flow) but I don't have a pipe cutter, torch, flux, OR a dremel tool. :drunk: Is there such a thing as slip on fittings for this type of project that require no soldering? I am pretty sure I could MacGyver the filter part of the manifold with a hacksaw, but to keep costs down, I don't really want to invest in the tools. Would CPVC be better in my case?

Alternatively, I would be intrigued to buy a proven mash tun from those of you who have since moved on to bigger and better things. Buying a prefab one sort of takes the fun out of it from the mad scientist standpoint, but I am trying to make good beer here, not whip something up with wrong tools/etc like a schmuck. Maybe even just the copper manifold as that would be more realistic as far as shipping goes, so long as it fits in the cooler I will be using. CT currently has THIS cooler on sale. I have no problem with the ball valve/etc, I just don't have the tools to make a quality manifold.

Another question I had was about keeping these things clean. Is it customary to pull all fittings apart after a mash to clean them up, or is it as simple as running some hot water/iodophor/etc through it?

hey moxie a fellow haligonian considering going AG this summer? crazy. that cooler is the one i was looking at getting - i think walmart might be a dollar or two cheaper. I searched around for round coolers, but the only place that sells 10g ones is home hardware, and they cost ~70 or 80 dollars. not worth it. As for the fittings (ball valve etc) I am thinking about that hardware place over in Burnside, they have everything - Princess Auto. And I think PVC is what I might do for the manifold, it is much cheaper. What are you going to use to do a 5gal boil?
 
hey moxie a fellow haligonian considering going AG this summer? crazy. that cooler is the one i was looking at getting - i think walmart might be a dollar or two cheaper. I searched around for round coolers, but the only place that sells 10g ones is home hardware, and they cost ~70 or 80 dollars. not worth it. As for the fittings (ball valve etc) I am thinking about that hardware place over in Burnside, they have everything - Princess Auto. And I think PVC is what I might do for the manifold, it is much cheaper. What are you going to use to do a 5gal boil?

I had the same problem with the round coolers. I think making a manifold for a square shaped cooler would be easier and would require less fittings. On the other hand, I feel like the round cooler would provide a better grain bed. (But that is just an assumption) I will probably go pick up that cheap cooler I posted this afternoon. It sounds like we are building essentially the same thing.

For my boil I have a 7 gallon pot that I will put on my stovetop. It takes a while to get a rolling boil out of it, but it should be okay for the time being. My next project will be investing in a turkey fryer of some sort, and a ball valve + thermometer for my brewpot.
 
I had the same problem with the round coolers. I think making a manifold for a square shaped cooler would be easier and would require less fittings. On the other hand, I feel like the round cooler would provide a better grain bed. (But that is just an assumption) I will probably go pick up that cheap cooler I posted this afternoon. It sounds like we are building essentially the same thing.

For my boil I have a 7 gallon pot that I will put on my stovetop. It takes a while to get a rolling boil out of it, but it should be okay for the time being. My next project will be investing in a turkey fryer of some sort, and a ball valve + thermometer for my brewpot.

Cool, I may send you a message in a month or two to see how it works out for you - I don't have much space for more equipment until September, so going all grain may wait until then for me. However, upgrading my 4 gallon pot that I've been using for partial mashes may happen sooner. Where did you find the 7 gallon pot? Is there enough space for evaporation and whatnot?
 
Cool, I may send you a message in a month or two to see how it works out for you - I don't have much space for more equipment until September, so going all grain may wait until then for me. However, upgrading my 4 gallon pot that I've been using for partial mashes may happen sooner. Where did you find the 7 gallon pot? Is there enough space for evaporation and whatnot?

Sounds good to me. I picked up my 1/2" CPVC pipe and fittings today and put the manifold together. They didn't have everything I needed for the ball valve, so I reserved that for another day. Turns out the cooler I posted from CT does NOT have a spicket. Does the one you saw at Walmart have it?

As for the big pot, well, I found it at Reny's in Gardiner, ME.
 
Sounds good to me. I picked up my 1/2" CPVC pipe and fittings today and put the manifold together. They didn't have everything I needed for the ball valve, so I reserved that for another day. Turns out the cooler I posted from CT does NOT have a spicket. Does the one you saw at Walmart have it?

As for the big pot, well, I found it at Reny's in Gardiner, ME.

..Well I guess I won't go get my pot there. :)

I don't remember from looking if the one at walmart had a drain. Looking at their site, it has one in the picture and description. Another alternative would be this one, it isn't quite as big (but it is still 10gal) but it also has a spigot.
 
..Well I guess I won't go get my pot there. :)

I don't remember from looking if the one at walmart had a drain. Looking at their site, it has one in the picture and description. Another alternative would be this one, it isn't quite as big (but it is still 10gal) but it also has a spigot.

Yeah, it's the same cooler as the one at CT, but for some reason the one at CT doesn't have the spicket. :confused: Who knows, maybe they've discontinued the spicket in some coolers. Thanks for the links, I'll have to take a trip to WM tomorrow evening.

Here is a question for those of you with CPVC manifolds... Did you do anything to "prep" the manifold before your first mash?
 
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