Water Filter Setup

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Hello everyone. I am getting my water from my water heater and thinking about filtering it. Does anyone know if my hot water can go through a water filter? I'm looking at buying the water filter set up from more beer. Thanks
 
Hello everyone. I am getting my water from my water heater and thinking about filtering it. Does anyone know if my hot water can go through a water filter? I'm looking at buying the water filter set up from more beer. Thanks

That would be a good question for http://iam.homebrewtalk.com/mabrungard

I would PM him if you don't find your answer.
 
There is adifferent high temp setup for hotwater, cant recall where I saw it but it was a guy who got the water out of his hot water heater.
 
TThis was one of the best additions to my brew gear, saves me time and money from having to buy ater at the store and is much cleaner than what I get from the tap.
 
Thought I might offer an update on the original post: You can still get all of the parts listed/shown at Lowes but whirlpool has gone to 3/8" fittings on the filter housing instead of what I think was 3/4" when johnsma22 put it together in 2007. The blue plastic line that comes with the filter (intended to hook up to your faucet) works great in place of the PVC and allows you to not build a mounting bracket. The whole setup cost about $60 last week.
 
Got mine put together, should make it easier for boiling outside with the cooker, which I have a new one of those on the way, a 100,000 BTU Burner.....

This unit, part no: whkf-dwh still uses 3/4 fittings.

water filter1.jpg
 
A simple riff on the same. Replaced the PVC assembly with a single cast street elbow that weighs enough to hold it in place over the side of a bucket or pot. The supply side is garden hose to QD to garden-hose-to-pipe-thread adapter into the filter. Tried to cut it down to the least number of connections. Works like a charm.

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I went with the lower micron filter, cost more but it was the only one that listed lead and other contaminates as being filtered. I think those $5 filters are just to remove large particles.

Hi

Microns have nothing to do with stuff like lead that are dissolved in the water. Resin and / or carbon are what are going to take out dissolved contaminants.

Bob
 
Copied off this setup...I have a grandfathered well on my property originally installed for a long-gone pool which I use for the garden, washing cars, etc but thought it would be cool to use 'on-site' water. Plan on getting water tested and going from there.

Ended up using an angled boiler drain ballvalve for ~$8 that negated the need for any adapters as it's already 3/4" MIP on the input and hose on the out. Output was a 3/4" MIP brass -> 1/2" CPVC adapter that has a hose-type connection allowing the pipe to be removed if needed/wanted.

Here it is (got a little messy with the primer...might have been a couple pints in by then :drunk:):
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Before anyone comments: Yes, I was using a horrible beer-killing 'regular' hose for testing. No, I will likely not be using it for brewing (although in taste tests w/ multiple friends there was absolutely no odor/flavor) I need 75-100' of RV hose and nobody local had even 50's on Sat....ordering it soon.

--Ian
 
I know its nice to have the filter on the brewstand draining directly into the kettle, but unless you're doing enormous batches, couldnt you save yourself the expense of buying 75+ feet of potable water hose and just use a white PET bucket and dump to your kettle? Even with 10 gal batches, you're looking at less than 2 buckets full for mash and the same for sparge.
 
Have to say...made this a few months back....my water never tasted bad and my beer was good..but my beer is even better using filtered water...I can tell a huge difference.
 
I know its nice to have the filter on the brewstand draining directly into the kettle, but unless you're doing enormous batches, couldnt you save yourself the expense of buying 75+ feet of potable water hose and just use a white PET bucket and dump to your kettle? Even with 10 gal batches, you're looking at less than 2 buckets full for mash and the same for sparge.

I could but at ~$35 shipped for two 50' hoses it's not really a concern. That's cheaper than the other idea that I was pondering...running pipe for a hose bib up next to the house (would actually be nice for gardening as well). :D

--Ian
 
Just an FYI to anyone wanting to build this part-for-part like the OP - the Gilmour water shutoff has been discontinued. A slightly different part has to be used.

Thanks for the heads up - looks like there are several (vinyl or zinc models) - closest at Lowes appears to be model # 05VGF
 
Hello everyone. I am getting my water from my water heater and thinking about filtering it. Does anyone know if my hot water can go through a water filter? I'm looking at buying the water filter set up from more beer. Thanks

I just picked up the one that the original poster of this thread posted.

On the unit itself, it has:

For Cold Water Use Only (40F - 100F), so you would probably be running a risk if you go with hot water!

IMAG0251.jpg
 
I bought one of these and set it up under my kitchen sink to filter the water for drinking and cooking!

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Just the other week, I bought three of these and plumbed them together in series under the sink. Currently I'm using the loose carbon filters that come in the whirlpool filter and at low enough flow(.5 GPM), it even removes the choramine below detectable levels of my test kit. It will still flow much faster when I need it to for other things, and the water is now crystal clear...no more slight green tint and odor. Here in Houston the city uses chloramine instead of chlorine and from everything I was reading carbon filters would not take it out...however after talking with a few [plumbers that know the stuff, they informed me that carbon WILL remove stubborn chloramine, but you need alot of contact time with good fresh carbon...catalytic carbon is even better. I had a couple of coupons so even after the three filters, some fittings and whatnot, it was still only about $80...a triple filter setup costs somewhere from $120-150 out of the box. Money well spent in my opinion...not just for beer,but for the health of my family!
 
Hi

Carbon will take out just about anything. The gotcha is always the rate at which it saturates. I once worked on a gizmo with about 10,000 pounds of carbon in it that we back flushed with live steam to re-activate. Changing out 5 tons of the stuff can get a bit pricey...

Take a look at the simple RO systems they have out there. You should be able to pay for the initial investment with a few triple carbon filter swap outs...

Bob
 
If i build one of these do i half to mess with my water chemistery? im on a well and dont like the little rocks i get in my brew water, can i jsu run it threw the original build here and brew? or do i need to add stuff back in after i filter it?
 
Has anyone checked the ph after making one of these filter attachments? If so, how are the readings coming out? Obviously everyone has a different local water supply. Just want to get an idea
 
A basic fiber or carbon block filter won't have any effect on pH or ionic composition of the water. The pH of clean water fluctuates and is (generally) not itself important for brewing...you need to think about mash pH and residual alkalinity.
 
Thanks to the original poster for the instructions. I picked up the parts and made one of these water filters today. I omitted the swivel and the quick disconnect, but otherwise the rig is identical. Total cost was $68.

I hope to try it out when I brew next week. I can't wait.
 
This thread was very helpful in putting my filter together. I use poly quick disconnects on my rig so I put the following items together. I used a GE filter housing and charcoal filter, 2 brass male 3/4" pipe thead to male garden hose fittings (all from Home Depot) and one of the male poly quick disconnects to garden hose (from my LHBS). Food safe hose gets connected to the inlet and the poly disconnect goes to the inlet of the kettle. It's easy and only cost $40 total.

filter1.jpg


filter2.jpg


Thanks OP!
 
When I first posted this thread I had no idea how many people would end up finding it useful. To everyone who has thanked me, I extend a very sincere "you're welcome" to you!
 
John, I just want to thank you for this thread - as many others have. I've read through the entire 15 page thread and have learned so much!

Cheers, and may my beers not suffer when I move to a city with chloramines!

:mug:
 
AmandaK said:
John, I just want to thank you for this thread - as many others have. I've read through the entire 15 page thread and have learned so much!

Cheers, and may my beers not suffer when I move to a city with chloramines!

:mug:

Again, you're welcome my friend. Chloramines can be easily eliminated through a chemical reaction with a crushed Camden tablet in your boil water. A 1/2 gram Camden tablet will reduce the chloramines in 20 gallons of water to harmless and tasteless levels of chloride, sulfate and ammonium ions.
 
Just out of curiosity, is speed a factor in your brewing that you are using these monsters? I will admit, I only fill kegs with water for soda, but I have a separate faucet on my kitchen sink that uses filters. I just stick a 1/2" hose on that, run the other end to the keg, and let it fill. When I first installed this filter, we ran a test between the filter and non-filtered water and you actually see a difference in the water quality. The taste is even better.
 
Just out of curiosity, is speed a factor in your brewing that you are using these monsters?

Not necessarily!

This is great when used outside, because more people don't have a big sink that they can fit big keggles in.

You get your keggle or brew pot ready on your burner, and then you hook this up to your outdoor faucet and fill it up.

That way, you don't have to fill it up and carry it to your burner.
 
I had a similar idea and was at Lowes today. I decided to come home and search the site for more info, and I found this post. It is exactly what I was looking for and the parts list is a plus. Thanks' for sharing
 
Is anyone using an inline flow meter with this? I'd like to start getting accurate levels of water for mash in and sparge water. I ended up a half gallon high yesterday pre-boil using my 8c measuring cup. I'd rather put the water directly in my pot and keggle.
 
Is anyone using an inline flow meter with this? I'd like to start getting accurate levels of water for mash in and sparge water. I ended up a half gallon high yesterday pre-boil using my 8c measuring cup. I'd rather put the water directly in my pot and keggle.

You could install a sight glass on your keggle so you know when to stop filling.
 
I do have a sight glass on my keggle but for heating mash/sparge water I use a 10gal stainless pot. I haven't gotten around to cutting the top off of my second keg yet. I did see one at home depot for ~$25 that measured tenths of a gallon and is made for use with lawn sprinklers. That would be helpful as my last brew had two additions of sparge water at 4.26 gallons each. I would have been ok with rounding one up to 4.3 and the other to 4.2 via the flow meter.
 
This thread was very helpful in putting my filter together. I use poly quick disconnects on my rig so I put the following items together. I used a GE filter housing and charcoal filter, 2 brass male 3/4" pipe thead to male garden hose fittings (all from Home Depot) and one of the male poly quick disconnects to garden hose (from my LHBS). Food safe hose gets connected to the inlet and the poly disconnect goes to the inlet of the kettle. It's easy and only cost $40 total.

filter1.jpg


filter2.jpg


Thanks OP!

I know this post is old, but I'd like to personally thank you. In looking through the thread there are lots of photos of different set ups and mounting options for this build. Your is, for me, the BEST one I've seen and I will be using it in my build in a couple week. So, Thanks You!
 
Ok. I wanted to post a couple pics of the water filter that I've put together as props to UofMontanaAlum. It don't have an item list (I could find it online if someone needed it), but it was put together for less than $50 at HD. Cheers!

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This seems like a shortcut to the build (which I admire and was about to build until laziness turned me to amazon). Besides a separate shutoff valve, what's the difference?

That one looks like it DOES NOT have metal connections for the hose!

The one that the o.p. listed the parts for does!

It may not matter as much if you have it constantly connected, but it you don't, you want that metal connection for stability.
 
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