Brutus Ten ????

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wshymas

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I have been looking at the different RIMS and I saw the Brutus Ten in BYO. I like the look of this system and it looks very simple. the questions I have are.
1.How well will the love controller maintain the temp of the MLT (5 to 10 degree swings)?
2.How many times dose the burner cycle on and off. (worried about the solenoids burning up)?
3.How well does the burner on the MLT work going from flame to no flame?
thanks for the input
 
from what I heard, this system works really well keeping the temp under control

now for a rant!

I am kind of pi**ed! I paid $25 for the plans for brutus and then 3 months later i get the plans free in my BYO!!!!!!!

Ok I'm done!!

John
 
Nwcw2001 said:
from what I heard, this system works really well keeping the temp under control

now for a rant!

I am kind of pi**ed! I paid $25 for the plans for brutus and then 3 months later i get the plans free in my BYO!!!!!!!

Ok I'm done!!

John
Yep, I feel bad because I recommended to someone who was new on the forum to look at the AleNuts website to get ideas of a single tier system that is reportedly very good. I guess the new forumite wanted to see more detail so he ponied up the $$$ and then just like you a few weeks later........BOOM. BYO has everything anyone would need to build Brutus.
 
JeffNYC said:
What's the cost of putting this together?

From the plans I have, the parts list brings the total out to $2300. That would be much more if you cant weld the stand yourself.

JeffNYC said:
...and DIY skill level...

I think that this is probably a 3 1/2 or 4 out of 5. You have to be pretty confidant in your abilities to tackle this. That being said if you don't feel comfortable doing this, but have a handy buddy who could help you do it, I think it would be a good thing to do. That way you know all the blood and guts of your system and understand all the little things when it comes time to either fix or upgrade the system.

John
 
I am not a welder, and don't know anyone that is. How much welding is required from these instructions?

I just signed up for BYO, not sure if I'll get this issue but I hope so. May have to order a back issue.

I was looking at some pre-made systems (MoreBeer if I recall has several in this price range, but this morning couldn't get access to their website). I would think the Brutus Ten would have more functionality or better components for the same price as these.
 
I think that you can build this without a welded stand. I think it would be just as sturdy with the "erector set" style stand or a wooden stand with flashing.

As far as the BYO issue, your HBS should sell them. If not they carry them at my Barnes and Nobel, they may at yours too.

John
 
Here is my setup which uses three Love controllers: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=39422

Due to some personal issues I have not even had a chance to break it in although I have tested it for several hours and have not had any problems with temperature swings.

**EDIT** - Just realized that since mine is electric (vs. gas), I probably can't really comment on the temperature swings...
 
JeffNYC said:
I am not a welder, and don't know anyone that is. How much welding is required from these instructions?

I just signed up for BYO, not sure if I'll get this issue but I hope so. May have to order a back issue.

I was looking at some pre-made systems (MoreBeer if I recall has several in this price range, but this morning couldn't get access to their website). I would think the Brutus Ten would have more functionality or better components for the same price as these.

Take a look at Brewpastor's setup; you don't necessarily have to weld. Another thought is that one could build that basic rig and add the bells and whistle's later.
 
JeffNYC said:
I am not a welder, and don't know anyone that is. How much welding is required from these instructions?

I just signed up for BYO, not sure if I'll get this issue but I hope so. May have to order a back issue.

I was looking at some pre-made systems (MoreBeer if I recall has several in this price range, but this morning couldn't get access to their website). I would think the Brutus Ten would have more functionality or better components for the same price as these.

Yeah, I am absolutely no welder... I bought my keggles pre-cut and welded. and built the stand out of wood. (Link to my setup in post #9 above)
 
Doesn't he used stainless square tube for the stand? You could probably cut the cost down a LOT if you used standard hot rolled steel.

(I haven't seen the plans, so maybe he already made that change, but it seems like there's be ~$900 worth of stainless tube stock in the costs)

-D
 
What about the Brutus 20? Anybody have any thoughts on it? I was all ready to go on the Brutus 10 and then I found the 20. I'm thinking that is the way I'm going.

linky
 
I will put togeather a parts list with $$$. of what I have so far.
I am look for the contronl valves for the fuel lines. (will be the hardest to come by).
if you use steel it should be around $100 for the stand ($300 plus for SS).
I have a friend with a small wire feed welder we have onyl put 5-6 hrs in so far and we are about 2/3 done with the stand. I am using Huracane burners.
thanks for all the input and pics. will try to post some with my list.:ban:
 
Hmm...that's a very unique way of doing it! I can't see anything wrong with it...it should prove to make a pretty compact system!
 
You can get the stainless cheaper if you shop around. I got mine for $240 and I added a tippy dump to the mash tun.

I got 9" 23 jet burners for $24 each also but the rest of the pricing in BYO seems to be right on.

I am holding off on the asco valves and pid controllers for awhile to lower the cost.
 
Nwcw2001 said:
I think that you can build this without a welded stand. I think it would be just as sturdy with the "erector set" style stand or a wooden stand with flashing.

As far as the BYO issue, your HBS should sell them. If not they carry them at my Barnes and Nobel, they may at yours too.

John

I've always been a fan of erector sets. Where are these sold? What brands to search for? I feel good about anything not involving welding.

What about the Brutus 20? I just read that and it looks even simpler than the 10. Any opinion on the sparging for the 20, which essentially recirculates wort back over the grains until equilibrium between the HLT and MT?

Is clean up on this straightforward? Tippy tump MT seems important to build in.
 
DSCN0134r.jpg


Here's picture.
 
Thanks, the tippy dump looks key for cleaning. Anyone have plans on this, either in that Google sketch program, or even just drawn?
 
giono2 said:
What about the Brutus 20? Anybody have any thoughts on it? I was all ready to go on the Brutus 10 and then I found the 20. I'm thinking that is the way I'm going.

linky

Did everyone just glaze over this. I read the plans for this last night. Seems to be an original approach. He claimes to have done a good deal of proof of concept testing (he must also be a PM). I think if this is as effective, or within the 2% eff loss he claims, it may be worth exploring for me when ever I get around to doing my build.
 
Looks interesting, I too like the simplicity and am looking at this for my upgrade to 10 gallon setup. Any reaction to the way it gradually mixes sparge water with wort, until it achieves equilibrium? Direct fired MT OK? (Even though this is the Brutus "20" I presume it's for 10 gallon batches with kettles sized accordingly.)
 
That's a really interesting idea. I may try it and see how it works! I have seen pics of 2-vessel breweries and wondered what the process was.
 
I was deeply interested in the "10" setup when I came across the "20" and am eager to try it. I just need to figure out how to weld now, something I've been wanting to learn anyway. The simplicity of the 20 seems pretty neat, it just looks like several variables have been removed from process. For me that is a good thing.
 
I too bought the plans and then it comes out in BYO, oh well. The price of stainless has more than trippled in price from what is listed. Also the ASCO vavle he used will work, but was not made for gas. (I called ASCO and thats what they tell me) I still can't figure out how the burners are set up, look closely at the picks in BYO and it shows different burners. Here is an early pic of mine.

 
Another interesting idea from the Brutus 10 is using the MT as the fermenter. While the mash is boiling, clean out the MT, and boil with water vigorously to sanitize. That cuts down the need for a 12+ gallon fermenter, although arguably not air tight. Any one try this?
 
dplin2001 said:
Also the ASCO vavle he used will work, but was not made for gas. (I called ASCO and thats what they tell me) I still can't figure out how the burners are set up, look closely at the picks in BYO and it shows different burners.


He says he used SC8210G37 valves....

Not sure why they would say that; from their site:

http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFiles/Product/8210_NC.pdf

I just don't get why direct fire the mash, when the MLT is there to provide a heat source for a coil to recirculate mash from the mash tun. This maintains mash tun heat and provides a mix for equal temps in the mash tun.

Can someone tell me why direct heated mash is OK or better than a RIMS? The equipment for RIMS is all there, except the recirc coil which could double as the chiller coil....
 
It's just a different way to do it. Not better or worse, just different. I direct fire my MLT with no problems.

If the MLT is being gently heated and constantly recirculated, then the entire mash will have very consistent temps. Pumping through a HERMS coil is basically the same except more complicated since you have to run it through a coil in another vessel.
 
I've read a few calculations that state that doing step mashes with a RIMS/HERMS setup is difficult because the rise time is extremely long compared to a direct fired tun, but I can't find the page where I saw that now.

-D
 
Henry Hill said:
He says he used SC8210G37 valves....

Not sure why they would say that; from their site:

http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFiles/Product/8210_NC.pdf

I just don't get why direct fire the mash, when the MLT is there to provide a heat source for a coil to recirculate mash from the mash tun. This maintains mash tun heat and provides a mix for equal temps in the mash tun.

Can someone tell me why direct heated mash is OK or better than a RIMS? The equipment for RIMS is all there, except the recirc coil which could double as the chiller coil....

I looked up the valve and came up with this link

http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFiles/Product/8210R1.pdf

Your link it says gas shutoff valve and mine shows general service solenoid valve. I'm just reporting what the guy said on the phone. Thats why I don't have one yet, there are so many different ones to choose from.
 
First, let me address the few disgruntled… :) Really fellas, some may think that I gave BYO these prints to Brutus Ten. This is not the case. They were a BIG customer just like you! So I know that you are really not mad because someone else (BYO) walked into the bar and literally purchased a “round for the house” so to speak, even though you just purchased your very own beer just minutes before… Unfortunately catch 22’s don’t really work that way and that’s how these things seem to turn out. I do have a new 40 page package I am finishing, and as I always said, I’ll be sending that out to everyone that had the old package for nutton. I do not sell the prints anymore at my own choosing, although even today I received an email wanting to actually purchase them anyway on top of his BYO. At some point it is out with the old and in with the new man… That brings us to Brutus 20 which is unlike any other. I am slowly working on it. As my friends have known, my real job requires me many hours and travel lately so I haven’t had much time to put into the 20 really.

Yes… Stainless is blistering high now! I planned it that way shortly after I invented the internet. And don’t think I don’t have a hand in the hop prices either! :) And the ASCO valves have been going now for over a hundred batches. I also had them on Brutus 5… Not sure why ASCO says different… They are a gas valve company!

Just kidding you fellas! :)

Now to the burners. Though the three burners are all identical, the set-up is different. The mash and HLT are temp (LOVE) controlled while the boil kettle is un-controlled; as it should be.

If you have never used your spare pot for fermenting, once you do, you will NEVER go back to carboys! :)

Direct fired recirculating mash; there is no better way in my book. You have better throughput, MUCH better temp control, and MUCH less hassles to deal with. Put all the returns in the lids and you’ll wonder what took you so long! I do recommend a FULL false bottom; take the recirculation slow and easy and let the direct heat do its job.

Say, I think I will hang around this forum more often!

Lonnie Mac
 
colplink said:
First, let me address the few disgruntled… :) Really fellas, some may think that I gave BYO these prints to Brutus Ten. This is not the case. They were a BIG customer just like you! So I know that you are really not mad because someone else (BYO) walked into the bar and literally purchased a “round for the house” so to speak, even though you just purchased your very own beer just minutes before… Unfortunately catch 22’s don’t really work that way and that’s how these things seem to turn out. I do have a new 40 page package I am finishing, and as I always said, I’ll be sending that out to everyone that had the old package for nutton. I do not sell the prints anymore at my own choosing, although even today I received an email wanting to actually purchase them anyway on top of his BYO. At some point it is out with the old and in with the new man… That brings us to Brutus 20 which is unlike any other. I am slowly working on it. As my friends have known, my real job requires me many hours and travel lately so I haven’t had much time to put into the 20 really.

Yes… Stainless is blistering high now! I planned it that way shortly after I invented the internet. And don’t think I don’t have a hand in the hop prices either! :) And the ASCO valves have been going now for over a hundred batches. I also had them on Brutus 5… Not sure why ASCO says different… They are a gas valve company!

Just kidding you fellas! :)

Now to the burners. Though the three burners are all identical, the set-up is different. The mash and HLT are temp (LOVE) controlled while the boil kettle is un-controlled; as it should be.

If you have never used your spare pot for fermenting, once you do, you will NEVER go back to carboys! :)

Direct fired recirculating mash; there is no better way in my book. You have better throughput, MUCH better temp control, and MUCH less hassles to deal with. Put all the returns in the lids and you’ll wonder what took you so long! I do recommend a FULL false bottom; take the recirculation slow and easy and let the direct heat do its job.

Say, I think I will hang around this forum more often!

Lonnie Mac


I'm not upset I paid for the plans at all, I actually really happy with them and the pics in BYO.

I don't know why ASCO said that?? I guess they have some valves that are dedicated to gas use only and they thought that would be better, they also suggested not using 1/2, they felt a smaller size would work with gas. I called them because I found some other ones on ebay and asked if they would work too.

I mentioned the burners because in the BYO pics some look like they have pilots built into the burner ring and pics look like they don't thats all.

I meant no offense, I love your plan and as you can see I'm almost done with mine. I wish sainless wasn't so expensive, I built mine with 2" box and all the metal in it only cost me $60.

Thanks for the awesome system.
 
colplink said:
First, let me address the few disgruntled… :) Really fellas, some may think that I gave BYO these prints to Brutus Ten. This is not the case. They were a BIG customer just like you! So I know that you are really not mad because someone else (BYO) walked into the bar and literally purchased a “round for the house” so to speak, even though you just purchased your very own beer just minutes before… Unfortunately catch 22’s don’t really work that way and that’s how these things seem to turn out. I do have a new 40 page package I am finishing, and as I always said, I’ll be sending that out to everyone that had the old package for nutton. I do not sell the prints anymore at my own choosing, although even today I received an email wanting to actually purchase them anyway on top of his BYO. At some point it is out with the old and in with the new man… That brings us to Brutus 20 which is unlike any other. I am slowly working on it. As my friends have known, my real job requires me many hours and travel lately so I haven’t had much time to put into the 20 really.

Yes… Stainless is blistering high now! I planned it that way shortly after I invented the internet. And don’t think I don’t have a hand in the hop prices either! :) And the ASCO valves have been going now for over a hundred batches. I also had them on Brutus 5… Not sure why ASCO says different… They are a gas valve company!

Just kidding you fellas! :)

Now to the burners. Though the three burners are all identical, the set-up is different. The mash and HLT are temp (LOVE) controlled while the boil kettle is un-controlled; as it should be.

If you have never used your spare pot for fermenting, once you do, you will NEVER go back to carboys! :)

Direct fired recirculating mash; there is no better way in my book. You have better throughput, MUCH better temp control, and MUCH less hassles to deal with. Put all the returns in the lids and you’ll wonder what took you so long! I do recommend a FULL false bottom; take the recirculation slow and easy and let the direct heat do its job.

Say, I think I will hang around this forum more often!

Lonnie Mac

Good to have you here! I've been eyeballing your Brutus 10 plans for a while, and when I finally went to go buy them, there wasn't a link anybody and I had to buy BYO instead. =)

It wouldn't look quite as shiny, but plain old steel seems like it should work just fine and dandy, and save me the $700+ I'm seeing for stainless.

-D
 
dplin2001 said:
I'm not upset I paid for the plans at all, I actually really happy with them and the pics in BYO.

I don't know why ASCO said that?? I guess they have some valves that are dedicated to gas use only and they thought that would be better, they also suggested not using 1/2, they felt a smaller size would work with gas. I called them because I found some other ones on ebay and asked if they would work too.

I mentioned the burners because in the BYO pics some look like they have pilots built into the burner ring and pics look like they don't thats all.

I meant no offense, I love your plan and as you can see I'm almost done with mine. I wish sainless wasn't so expensive, I built mine with 2" box and all the metal in it only cost me $60.

Thanks for the awesome system.

Oh no dplin2001! No offense at all! In fact, I have been putting a dedication page together for my website for a while now. I have about 20 other Brutus 10's that others have built. I stole your picture from this website and you are included!

True about the pilots. I dont have a pilot on the kettle burner as it is not needed. The pilots I added as part of the LOVE package to the other two burneres. The Kettle truly is TOTALLY manual!

:)
 
colplink said:
Oh no dplin2001! No offense at all! In fact, I have been putting a dedication page together for my website for a while now. I have about 20 other Brutus 10's that others have built. I stole your picture from this website and you are included!

True about the pilots. I dont have a pilot on the kettle burner as it is not needed. The pilots I added as part of the LOVE package to the other two burneres. The Kettle truly is TOTALLY manual!

:)


Cool, I'm almost done.

I'll update my picture tomorrow. I'm all done except for the control panel. I modified the way I was going to do the control panel. I bought all the metel from a machine shop going out of business and bought some thick aircraft aluminum for the panel. It was to tough to bend so I changed it up, to a plastic sprinkler control box that I'll velcor onto some mounts.
 
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