First Brew Questions

I started my first batch last night - an Amber Ale! The process went pretty smooth for being the first time I thought. However, I still have some first timer uncertainties.

1) I used Munton's dry yeast, but didn't rehydrate it before putting it in. I thought that this was an additional step that would get slightly better results and wanted to keep things simple the first time around so I just sprinkled it on top of the wort. I'm kicking myself now for not taking the extra time to rehydrate it, but should it be okay?

2) I was very cautious about keeping everything sterilized throughout the process so I'm pretty sure I have a pure batch. But how do you even know if your batch is contaminated with something? What signs should I be on the look out for?

3) It is now sitting/fermenting peacefully on the floor of a closet in my house. It's only been in there for a few hours so there's no activity right now. The thermometer reads right at 65 degrees. If the temperature varies, I would want it to be a slight bit warmer and not cooler, right?

4) What's the best way to get hop and grain particles out of your wort? I don't think I was very successful at this, I should probably just go buy a funnel with a strainer.

Thanks and you have any tips or tricks of the trade please let me know!

PatMac said:

I started my first batch last night - an Amber Ale! The process went pretty smooth for being the first time I thought. However, I still have some first timer uncertainties.

1) I used Munton's dry yeast, but didn't rehydrate it before putting it in. I thought that this was an additional step that would get slightly better results and wanted to keep things simple the first time around so I just sprinkled it on top of the wort. I'm kicking myself now for not taking the extra time to rehydrate it, but should it be okay?

2) I was very cautious about keeping everything sterilized throughout the process so I'm pretty sure I have a pure batch. But how do you even know if your batch is contaminated with something? What signs should I be on the look out for?

3) It is now sitting/fermenting peacefully on the floor of a closet in my house. It's only been in there for a few hours so there's no activity right now. The thermometer reads right at 65 degrees. If the temperature varies, I would want it to be a slight bit warmer and not cooler, right?

4) What's the best way to get hop and grain particles out of your wort? I don't think I was very successful at this, I should probably just go buy a funnel with a strainer.

Thanks and you have any tips or tricks of the trade please let me know!

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I'm somewhat of a beginner as well but here goes...

1) I've found that with lower gravity beers as long as the yeast gets in, you should be ok. In my days of knowing nothing about brewing I always directly pitched my cooper's yeast and it turned out ok.

2) Usually contamination looks like pure nastiness on top (that also doesnt look like yeast or hops). It will make the beer taste funky, but I if you are sterilizing I wouldnt even worry about it, I havent had any problems yet and I'm not the most thorough person in my cleaning.

3) 65 seems good, it will go a little slower in the fermentation, but you wont get off flavors at all. I would keep in there if I were you, just not any cooler.

4) Buy some irish moss to get the particulate out, works pretty well for me. For my last batch I also just left my beer outside for a few hours, just dont let it freeze out there! Then just bring it in and let in warm back up for a day before bottling.

1. You should be fine. Munton's is not my favorite yeast but it should get the job done.
2. It's a lot harder than you might think to infect a beer. Relax, you beer will be fine.
3. Temperature is good.
4. Time is the best beer clearer. Leave it long enough for the yeast to complete it's job fermenting, removing off flavors, and clearing your beer. Irish moss works great too but since you didn't use it time is your best friend. Leave your beer for a least 3 weeks right were it is and you'll be amazed at how good it turns out. Leaving your first beer alone is the hardest part of brewing. Start another batch very soon to fill your pipeline!

5. Welcome to HBT! We're glad you're here.

I've been brewing about a year now and dry pitching yeast seems to be kind of a new thing. I've dry pitched on every batch except one, and that was the one that dident work.I'm not real sure why you wouldent dry pitch,it's way less of a hassle,differnt flavors maybe?

By-Tor said:

I've been brewing about a year now and dry pitching yeast seems to be kind of a new thing. I've dry pitched on every batch except one, and that was the one that dident work.I'm not real sure why you wouldent dry pitch,it's way less of a hassle,differnt flavors maybe?

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The main reason is for healthier yeast. Hydrating yeast wakes it up gently without having to deal with the sugars. It is much harder for yeast cells to hydrate in sugar solution than in water.

If the dry pitch works every time, is there any other reason?

PatMac said:

2) I was very cautious about keeping everything sterilized throughout the process so I'm pretty sure I have a pure batch. But how do you even know if your batch is contaminated with something? What signs should I be on the look out for?

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I'll say this: You're going to get brown/tan crud and foam forming on the surface and then stuff that looks like dirt on the inside of the fermenter. That's just fine.

4) What's the best way to get hop and grain particles out of your wort? I don't think I was very successful at this, I should probably just go buy a funnel with a strainer.

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Most of it should settle out, then you siphon off into a bottling bucket and leave the trub sitting in the fermenter. Or you siphon off into a secondary and leave the trub behind.

Thanks for the advice! The fermentation is now starting to get a little more rapid. Some condensation has built up in the main shaft of the airlock extending into the bucket. Is this normal? If not, how can I dry it out without ruining the process?

It's wet in there so condensation is perfectly normal. Relax, watch your beer bubble, sniff the airlock if you must but stop worrying.

Hey, I'm pretty much a beginner myself with only being about 10 batches deep.... I progressed from using the Munton's dry yeast to using the liquid vials you can by from White Labs. I actually re-brewed a batch of Saison using the liquid yeast and I have to admit that it did taste much better. Choosing the "right" type of yeast for your beer will definately take your beers to the next level.

Regarding temps... it all really depends on what you're looking for. The higher the temps, the faster the fermentation. This also causes more byproducts such as esters to be introduced, which in some cases isn't a bad thing at all. I actually fermented my Saison into the high 80's to get some of those tastes. If it drops below 60, you may be looking at a stalled fermentation. Just take it somewhere a little warmer if that's the case and you'll be good to go!

Oh yeah, one more beginner's tip I learned. Buy a straining bag! I got a nylon mesh straining bag for cheap at Midwest and I just put all of my hops into that when boiling. This saves me from really having to worry about too much trub in the bottom of the boiler. The only stuff at the bottom for me is some of that protein crap and Irish Moss if I used it. But this comes out quick using either a funnel with a strainer or just a strainer on top of your fermenter. I just put that on top and dump the entire batch into the primary to oxygenate it and the such.... Good luck man! This stuff is truely addicting!:rockin:

Addicting indeed! I'm loving every second of it!

Dry yeast is ok. In fact, many people don't use liquid unless they are brewing a special beer, like some Belgians or some bigger beers.

However, I would get int eh habit of rehydrating your yeast if you do. It only takes a few minutes and can help prove that the yeast is alive and will grow healthier yeast and have many more viable yeast than if you did not.

Proving is done by seeing a bit of foam rising to the top of the yeast as it's rehydrated. No need to build a starter with dry yeast as you get several times the viable yeast per packet compared to liquid.

At any rate, you are good and I bet you will be drinking some fine beer in a few weeks!

Another newbie question, I know, but this doesn't match up with what I've been reading so I want to ask.

It has been fermenting for almost 72 hours. Saturday the bubbles started getting more and more frequent. Sunday afternoon it was bubbling regularly at a fairly frequent rate. Sunday night there was no action, this morning there was no action, and tonight there is no action. I thought there would still be bubbles going on in the third day. The temperature has been shifting between 63 degrees and 67 degrees, but I thought that was pretty standard for an ale.

Normal? Not normal? Anyone know what's going on? Thanks

Normal. Main fermentation can be done in a day or two but the yeast is still busy in there doing its thing whether you have bubbles or not.

+1 to what Nurmey said. My fermentations have lasted between 2 days and 1.5 weeks. RDWHAHB.

Agreed. Even though you may not see the bubbles coming out of the airlock anymore, the yeast is still hard at work. They should now be converting more of the by-products such as Diacetyl (spelling?) and the such... By far, the best way to acutally know when fermentation is complete is to take 2-3 consecutive hyro readings in a 2-3 day period. If the reading doesn't change, you should be all set to either transfer to secondary for conditioning or ready for bottling.

I personally always transfer to secondaries. I only do this to get a more "clear" beer than I would if I bottled directly out of the primary. The risk of infection does increase, but as long as you continue to be sanitary, you should see no problems transferring.