Sweetwater IPA clone!!!

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BuddyBrews

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asheville
So has anyone nailed this clone?!! Seems to be all over the place. This last one i tried seems to be the closest. I personally can't find a better IPA here in SE!! :mug:


10.5 lbs 2 row
1.0 lbs Munich
0.5 lbs Crystal 80
0.5 lbs Wheat Malt

And this hop schedule:

1.25 oz Chinook 13% 60 min
2 oz Cascade 5.5% 15 min
1 oz US Golding 5% 1 min
1 oz Simcoe 13% 1 min
1 oz US Golding Dry Hop
1 oz Simcoe Dry Hop



OG: 1.067
IBU: 63
Color: 8 SRM
 
Glad you like it!

Grain bill looks pretty good, though the gravity is a little high. Drop the Cascade and up the Simcoe at the end of the boil and dryhop to around 2 oz each and you've pretty much got it. You want to target 50 IBUs.
 
Glad you like it!

Grain bill looks pretty good, though the gravity is a little high. Drop the Cascade and up the Simcoe at the end of the boil and dryhop to around 2 oz each and you've pretty much got it. You want to target 50 IBUs.

Thanks Jed . I have two versions going right now. Hoping i can makes somthin as tasty. You must drink alot of it living in Atlanta!! I would! :mug:
 
I'm looking for a classic American Pale Ale recipe to brew down here in New Zealand. What's the taste like on this. From the hops you have I want to give it a go.
 
I'm looking for a classic American Pale Ale recipe to brew down here in New Zealand. What's the taste like on this. From the hops you have I want to give it a go.

If you have never tried it this beer, it is a true Grapefruit bomb. I also have an awesome APA recipe i'm brewing right now too If you want something a little lighter but still hoppy. Look up the Highland Little hump and let me know if you'd like it!! Its pretty insanely good. :)
 
Haha! I've been bugging the guys at red brick for their Hoplanta recipe to no avail... Time to make sweet water instead!

Too bad I already used that pound of wet cascade on my first attempt.
 
bluntsandbeers said:
If you have never tried it this beer, it is a true Grapefruit bomb. I also have an awesome APA recipe i'm brewing right now too If you want something a little lighter but still hoppy. Look up the Highland Little hump and let me know if you'd like it!! Its pretty insanely good. :)

Thanks for that. I see it won most session able beer for 2012. Sounds positive. I like the hops. Was going to put Amarillo in this one if I brewed it. Might just give it a go. Will let you know.
 
Thanks for that. I see it won most session able beer for 2012. Sounds positive. I like the hops. Was going to put Amarillo in this one if I brewed it. Might just give it a go. Will let you know.

You wont go wrong with these two beers. But I will tell you this, the sweetwater ipa is soo dam special :mug:
 
bluntsandbeers said:
I think that would be ok. Maybee Citra would be a good substitute too.

I'm not yet to the point where I'm comfortable altering recipes quite yet, do you think it'd be reasonable to swap both simcoe additions for citra, realizing the clone is out the window
 
I'm not yet to the point where I'm comfortable altering recipes quite yet, do you think it'd be reasonable to swap both simcoe additions for citra, realizing the clone is out the window

I think it would totally be pretty darn close. I have also heard that simcoe is like Cascade on crack. Maybe you could substitute the Simcoe for 1.25 or 1.5 oz of Cascade or Centennial. I would feel comfortable doing any of those. I would be very interested how this turns out. :fro:
 
I think it would totally be pretty darn close. I have also heard that simcoe is like Cascade on crack. Maybe you could substitute the Simcoe for 1.25 or 1.5 oz of Cascade or Centennial. I would feel comfortable doing any of those. I would be very interested how this turns out. :fro:


Brewed this today, swapped the simcoe for citra, planning to swap it for the dry hop addition as well here in a week.

used S05.

After have efficiencies in the 50's the first two AG batches, I asked my LHBS about their grinder, owner said he realized they had issues, and fixed it. I think now that there was still a problem as I'm still in the 50's efficiency wise based on BeerSmith.

Any how, finished up @ 1.043, instead of 1.062. Frustrated to say the least. I'll be buying a mill, but I update on how it turned out swapping the citra for simcoe, it is forsure going to be no where near the original.
 
Brewed this today, swapped the simcoe for citra, planning to swap it for the dry hop addition as well here in a week.

used S05.

After have efficiencies in the 50's the first two AG batches, I asked my LHBS about their grinder, owner said he realized they had issues, and fixed it. I think now that there was still a problem as I'm still in the 50's efficiency wise based on BeerSmith.

Any how, finished up @ 1.043, instead of 1.062. Frustrated to say the least. I'll be buying a mill, but I update on how it turned out swapping the citra for simcoe, it is forsure going to be no where near the original.

Good call with the citra. I prolly would have done the same!! I don't think you can go wrong with using this as a base for your your own recipe either. Really special brew. Let us know how it come out.!! :mug:
 
So has anyone nailed this clone?!! Seems to be all over the place. This last one i tried seems to be the closest. I personally can't find a better IPA here in SE!! :mug:


10.5 lbs 2 row
1.0 lbs Munich
0.5 lbs Crystal 80
0.5 lbs Wheat Malt

And this hop schedule:

1.25 oz Chinook 13% 60 min
2 oz Cascade 5.5% 15 min
1 oz US Golding 5% 1 min
1 oz Simcoe 13% 1 min
1 oz US Golding Dry Hop
1 oz Simcoe Dry Hop



OG: 1.067
IBU: 63
Color: 8 SRM

I'm curious as to your ferm. schedule if you don't mind sharing ??
 
atimmerman88 said:
I'm curious as to your ferm. schedule if you don't mind sharing ??

I'd love to know that too. I'm going to try this as my first all grain batch this week.
 
I'd love to know that too. I'm going to try this as my first all grain batch this week.

For mine - 2 weeks primary, 2-3 weeks secondary(bottle or keg). I took samples out of the kegs during secondary/conditioning and it tasted pretty green until about week 3 of conditioning. Could be earlier for some people but i like to put extra dry hops than some. :mug:
 
Ferm temp 75. Wyeast 1968

Your temp seems very high to me. The conventional wisdom for an IPA is to shoot for the upper mid 60s for a cleaner tasting beer.

Then again, you're the one whose drinking it so if you're happy with it then pay no attention to the pig in the shower.
 
BuddyBrews said:
Ferm temp 75. Wyeast 1968

Interesting how did this turn out? I was thinking 1056 and also, did you mean 65 by any chance? The temp range for 1968 is 64-72 according to wyeast.
 
Interesting how did this turn out? I was thinking 1056 and also, did you mean 65 by any chance? The temp range for 1968 is 64-72 according to wyeast.


They use 1968 in the IPA according to one of the brewers there. Temp was between 72-75. My house is a little on the warmer side. Really hope the extra 3 degrees won't affect it too much. Got it kegged and carbonating now, gonna wait til sunday to give a try. Will def keep you updated on how it turns out. :mug:
 
Ran my version of the recipe with citra swapped for the simcoe & fresh cascade hops @ 65F w/ S05

tried a hydro sample last night, mighty tasty. Will be bottling this weekend
 
Awesome well I got the grains and hops and yeast yesterday, was able to find the simcoe. I'm going 1056 and ferment about 65 (measured by sensor taped to bucket and insulated)
 
Well I brewed mine today, first all grain batch. The only thing that went wrong is my SG before boil was about 1.045 vs 1.057 but I think I know why. My mash tun is a round, 10 gallon cooler and I'm using a false bottom above the drain hole. I have to put a gallon of water in before the level goes above the false bottom. The recipe I put into beer smith had me do 3.9 gallons for both the mash and sparge (batch). Using 12.5 lbs of grain.

The water to grain ratio is right but I have a gallon of water below the false bottom that doesn't touch the grain, so the mash was very thick, it was not under water and very hard to stir. I found a thread about this here http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php?topic=6850.0 and saw it was the same issue I have, even the same clone recipe!

So about 35 minutes into the mash I added a gallon of 158 water and the temp stayed the same 152-153 though the whole 60 minute mash. The water level seemed just right with the extra gallon.

Only other issue I had was when I vorlaughed it took a couple gallons almost to get it clear and still had some grain bits coming through. Not sure why but maybe i will add a bazooka screen under the false bottom attached to the drain. Anyone have a setup like this?

So I think I will still have a good batch but a lower gravity. I chilled to 90f, put it in a ferm bucket with airlock and stuck in my ferm chamber to bring down to the 60s then I'll check OG and pitch the yeast later tonight.
 
bd2xu said:
Well I brewed mine today, first all grain batch. The only thing that went wrong is my SG before boil was about 1.045 vs 1.057 but I think I know why. My mash tun is a round, 10 gallon cooler and I'm using a false bottom above the drain hole. I have to put a gallon of water in before the level goes above the false bottom. The recipe I put into beer smith had me do 3.9 gallons for both the mash and sparge (batch). Using 12.5 lbs of grain.

The water to grain ratio is right but I have a gallon of water below the false bottom that doesn't touch the grain, so the mash was very thick, it was not under water and very hard to stir. I found a thread about this here http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php?topic=6850.0 and saw it was the same issue I have, even the same clone recipe!

So about 35 minutes into the mash I added a gallon of 158 water and the temp stayed the same 152-153 though the whole 60 minute mash. The water level seemed just right with the extra gallon.

Only other issue I had was when I vorlaughed it took a couple gallons almost to get it clear and still had some grain bits coming through. Not sure why but maybe i will add a bazooka screen under the false bottom attached to the drain. Anyone have a setup like this?

So I think I will still have a good batch but a lower gravity. I chilled to 90f, put it in a ferm bucket with airlock and stuck in my ferm chamber to bring down to the 60s then I'll check OG and pitch the yeast later tonight.

Edit. Here is the right link http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php/topic,4492.msg19347.html#msg19347
 
Pitched yeast starter of 1056. OG at 1.065. Volume is less than 5 gallons but I was able to boil off enough to get the OG right so hoping its close to Sweetwater IPA!
 
My pre-boil gravity is often lower than it is "supposed" to be but I end up either hitting or exceeding my OG. I don't bother taking it anymore.

Regarding an earlier post, I use just a bazooka screen in my mash tun. You shouldn't need both a false bottom AND a screen. But then I don't know what to tell you about your vorlauf issue. Sometimes I have to vorlauf more than others, maybe try to drain a little slower when you do it, could help settle the grain bed. And keep in mind that the gallon at the bottom should still mix with the grains given that you're stirring enough when you mash in.

Congratulations on your first all-grain! I hope it turns out great!
 
My pre-boil gravity is often lower than it is "supposed" to be but I end up either hitting or exceeding my OG. I don't bother taking it anymore.

Regarding an earlier post, I use just a bazooka screen in my mash tun. You shouldn't need both a false bottom AND a screen. But then I don't know what to tell you about your vorlauf issue. Sometimes I have to vorlauf more than others, maybe try to drain a little slower when you do it, could help settle the grain bed. And keep in mind that the gallon at the bottom should still mix with the grains given that you're stirring enough when you mash in.

Congratulations on your first all-grain! I hope it turns out great!

Anyone scaled this down to 3 gallons?? Or want to give it a shot?
 
Well I brewed mine today, first all grain batch. The only thing that went wrong is my SG before boil was about 1.045 vs 1.057 but I think I know why. My mash tun is a round, 10 gallon cooler and I'm using a false bottom above the drain hole. I have to put a gallon of water in before the level goes above the false bottom. The recipe I put into beer smith had me do 3.9 gallons for both the mash and sparge (batch). Using 12.5 lbs of grain.

The water to grain ratio is right but I have a gallon of water below the false bottom that doesn't touch the grain, so the mash was very thick, it was not under water and very hard to stir. I found a thread about this here http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php?topic=6850.0 and saw it was the same issue I have, even the same clone recipe!

So about 35 minutes into the mash I added a gallon of 158 water and the temp stayed the same 152-153 though the whole 60 minute mash. The water level seemed just right with the extra gallon.

Only other issue I had was when I vorlaughed it took a couple gallons almost to get it clear and still had some grain bits coming through. Not sure why but maybe i will add a bazooka screen under the false bottom attached to the drain. Anyone have a setup like this?

So I think I will still have a good batch but a lower gravity. I chilled to 90f, put it in a ferm bucket with airlock and stuck in my ferm chamber to bring down to the 60s then I'll check OG and pitch the yeast later tonight.

Perhaps I'm reading this incorrectly, but shouldn't your false bottom be below the drain hole? If it's above it you are just draining the mash tun without creating the vaccum that pulls the water down through the false bottom then back up through the drain. Could be why it is taking multiple gallons to get clear...

I have the same setup and there's not anything near a gallon left under the false bottom.

Should be false bottom on the bottom with dome part facing up so the nipple is on top. Then a little hose connecting the nipple to the drain. Weight of the water/grains will force the water down through the false bottom then up through the center and out the nipple/hose/drain.
 
theBFG said:
Perhaps I'm reading this incorrectly, but shouldn't your false bottom be below the drain hole? If it's above it you are just draining the mash tun without creating the vaccum that pulls the water down through the false bottom then back up through the drain. Could be why it is taking multiple gallons to get clear...

I have the same setup and there's not anything near a gallon left under the false bottom.

Should be false bottom on the bottom with dome part facing up so the nipple is on top. Then a little hose connecting the nipple to the drain. Weight of the water/grains will force the water down through the false bottom then up through the center and out the nipple/hose/drain.

There are two kinds. The one you're talking about is the most common I think. The one I have sits on feet and is above the drain. There is no hole in the middle and I'm not even using a dip tube right now. With either setup the water is being pulled from under the false bottom and then going out the valve.

There are a couple very small gaps on the sides of my false bottom, thinking of maybe cutting a slit in some small tubing to use as a seal. I just thought maybe I could put a bazooka screen on the opening under the false bottom so that any particles making it past the false bottom would get stopped by the screen. But then I'd worry about a clog and stuck sparge...
 
There are two kinds. The one you're talking about is the most common I think. The one I have sits on feet and is above the drain. There is no hole in the middle and I'm not even using a dip tube right now. With either setup the water is being pulled from under the false bottom and then going out the valve.

There are a couple very small gaps on the sides of my false bottom, thinking of maybe cutting a slit in some small tubing to use as a seal. I just thought maybe I could put a bazooka screen on the opening under the false bottom so that any particles making it past the false bottom would get stopped by the screen. But then I'd worry about a clog and stuck sparge...

Ohhh I see. Haha I only commented bc my first AG batch I did with the damn thing upside down and over the drain and the result....let's just say its the only batch I've dumped! :drunk:

But, I also cut some tubing to give it more snug fit at the bottom of the mashtun. I used the same size tubing as my autosiphon (3/8" i believe) and that really helped with keeping the grain out. Probably could have used a couple sizes bigger (maybe 1" like a blow off tube?) and gotten an even better fit, but the 3/8" works just fine. Yours may be slightly different though. Good luck, congrats on the first AG! That was where it got really fun for me (and more expensive as I keep wanting to add things now :ban: ).
 
Cool thanks. My false bottom came with a tiny plastic edge you can remove but I think it could use something slightly bigger, like airline tubing. Really excited about this batch, hit he OG right and ferm started right away (did a 1L starter with wyeast 1056), and I was able to keep it at a perfect 66-68. Really works well to tape the thermostat for my Johnson controller on the bucket and tape a bundled up towel over it. Controller temp for example said 67 while the temp inside the freezer was about 58, so the exothermic process is kicking! Got a very healthy ferm for two days with a blowoff, now have an airlock on it. Going to let sit for a week then transfer to secondary since this time I dumped wort with break, hops and all in. Will dry hop in secondary at week 2 and bottle at week 3.

My new process seems to work well, I brew at night, cool to 90 or so with wort chiller but it takes forever to come down from there so I rack to primary, put in ferm chamber with sensor taped and in the am, a few hours later, the temp is at 66 or wherever I set so I pitch yeast. Did this last two times and ferm was rocking in 3 hours.
 
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