So it seems like everything I read says to boil for 90 mins to reduce DMS. Should this be done for all beers? Are there any disadvantage to 90 minute boil in comparison to 60 minute boils? Any styles of beer not suited for 90 minute boil?
I always boil 90 minutes, and have been creating my new recipes with 100 minute boils.
I also NO CHILL my beer so I have special interest in driving off SMM and DMS
Granted I also use all electric, so it is cheap for me to add boil time
I also NO CHILL my beer...
Ooooh, look at me, I'm electric, I don't chill, I'm soooo special!
Why........?
Why........?
electricity cheap? efficient for heating I say B.S.
Compared to what? A tank of propane here costs 27.00. I get maybe 4 brews.
Electric costs (for heating only to compare apples) figure out to be about $2.85 for brew & HERMS.
I think he likes feeling special and different.
Why not???
What is the cost per kwh where you live? How are you figuring how many kwh you use? My cost on propane is much cheaper where I live. I would think have a faster boil time then electric.
I dunnoh.
Maybe cuz I'd prefer to have my beer in the fermenter and chugging along with yeast pitched...all inside of 4 1/2 hours?
Not that I don't like to think outside the box. I just did a no-boil Berliner Wiess this afternoon. It's a coin flip as to whether it will be astounding...or just ass.
Seriously. What's the gain to no-chill brewing. What are the risks?
No, because people said it wouldnt work, without having any practical experience with it. Just trying to prevent the spread of mis-information.
Would you say a electric hot water heater is more effiient then a propane one?
There are multiple threads on the No Chill thing... they address both of those questions. I also have an article hitting Brewer's Friend, home brewing resources in the coming week that covers it and the practical use of it.
The beer is no different. It takes one less piece of equipment, it saves some water, some time and releives me of the need to string a hose out to the spigot in 10F weather in the winter.
Also, the fermentor gets santized with heat, the wort is never cooled in the open where it is susceptible to infection... again, it cant be done, I know I know.
The key points for consistency in your brewing process are are:
* Crush grains consistently
* Mash consistently
* Water chemistry balance
* Sparge consistently
* Cool the wort quickly
* Use the same type of fermentor and control the temperature
* Transfer the beer between vessels gracefully – gravity and spigots are your friends!
The easiest method for chilling is simply to allow it to cool; unfortunately, this method is not only slow, but means that the wort is exposed to air (and thus wild yeasts, molds, and bacteria) for a longer interval. A wort chiller (below) speeds up the process considerably, reducing exposure and resulting in a more consistent brew week to week.
Would you say a electric hot water heater is more effiient then a propane one?
For what little it's worth (and mostly just to clarify my standpoint) I have tried the NO CHILL method, and after about 18 hours of room temp chilling to bring my wort to pitching temp, I had a painfully slow fermentation. I must note that this was only one attempt, and it was with an unfamiliar yeast and an unfamiliar recipe, so my results can in no way contribute meaningfully.
Here's the only part I saw on cooling wort. Granted I did a quick scan...I might have overlooked it.
[EDIT]
Found some more...
My no chills have started fermenting within 6-7 hours after pitching, fermented just as quickly as previous conventionally chilled beers and finished at the same OG. So, I dunno
...Also, your second quote is right, but no one is cooling thier beer in the open... that would be stupid, agreed. No chill takes place when boiling hot wort is sealed in a container.
....okaaaaayyyy...
I'm not trying to argue. Those quotes came from the link you provided.
I'm just trying to make sure I haven't overlooked benefits that I could take advantage of. If water is an issue...understood. Fortunately, water here is dirt cheap since we're at the confluence of two major rivers. I don't have an issue with the elements and garden hoses since I brew indoors. As far as saving time, how is that possible when you're extending the total process out several hours...most likely into the next day?
Couple of issues come to mind:
Cold break. How do you achieve if the wort is allowed to drift slowly down to pitching temp?
Final pitching temp. Are you parking your wort where the ambient is low enough to bring the wort down to sufficiently low pitching temps?
Would you say a electric hot water heater is more effiient then a propane one?
Ironic. Once I drop in my chiller and turn on the water...mine just sits there too...for about 30 minutes. That's my well deserved nap time....because allowing it to cool in a temperature controlled 65F environment doesnt take my time or attention. It just sits there.
How do you get your beer clear with no coagulation of the protein-polyphenols and beta-glucans?There is no "cold break" with no chill.
Ironic. Once I drop in my chiller and turn on the water...mine just sits there too...for about 30 minutes. That's my well deserved nap time.
How do you get your beer clear with no coagulation of the protein-polyphenols and beta-glucans?
I dunno, it is PFM!
Look, no chill isnt any better than chilling. It is just different.
HERMS isnt any better than single infusion in a cooler. It is just different.
Electric isnt any better than propane. It is just different.
All of the above are only chosen based on the goals of the individual brewer.
Now that we are WAYYYY off topic.
Yeah...I'm afraid we left the topic path some time ago. I'll have to give myself an infraction.
As far as "different"?
- I put clear bottles of perfectly good beer in the sun to intentionally skunk them cuz I like Heineken.
- I once took a perfectly good 5-gallon batch of an Anchor clone and reheated it to 174 degrees to boil off the alcohol and make an NA.
- I'm on my 11th generation harvest of a safale-05 yeast packet because I'm so freakin cheap.
- Just this afternoon I tossed in a half pound of raw grains into some fresh wort because I didn't have any commercial bugs for a Berliner Weisse.
So yeah, I appreciate different.
...people told me it wouldnt work at all. So I had to do it....
Then how's this.
If you load up a box with several of your finest HB's and ship it to me via UPS...I'm telling you it will absolutely, positively not make it to my home and I will not be able to crack and enjoy. It simply will not work.
There. You have your challenge.
I completely admire The Pol, for putting the No Chill method "Through the ringer". I live in Melbourne, where we are experiencing the worst drought in about 110 years. Our water levels are at 27.5% capacity. For instance, our biggest reservoir has a capacity of 1,068,000 litres. It is sitting at 187,462.
So yeah, we do not have the luxury of putting 50-60 litres of water down the drain. Hence the no chill method came about. It makes perfect sense here. Over in the U.S, I cannot see the enviromental advantage, but I do have to admit, that it does save time on your brew day. You just drain from the kettle, let sit and clean up. Put outside and let 'chill' next morning, pour and pitch
Back to the original topic:
90 minute versus 60 minute boil.
Once again, the difference in countries is shown in my answer. Generally when you boil, it is so that you get hop isomerization. I,E getting the oils in the hops to leech out, and mix with the wort etc etc. This happens at a lower then boiling temperature. The reason for a "vigorous" boil, is to drive of the DMS. This is found in all malts, but especially in American and European Pilsner malts. However, in Australian Malts, there are much less pre-cursors for DMS, particularly in Pilsner malts.
This is the main reason that we can No-Chill even lagers, without worrying about DMS build up in the slow cooling wort. If we use American Malts for out brews, then this does become a concern. So, hence you need a 90 minute boil to drive off alot of the DMS precursor.
Hope I answered your question atleast half intelligently.
Cheers
Over in the U.S, I cannot see the enviromental advantage, but I do have to admit, that it does save time on your brew day.
Would you say a electric hot water heater is more effiient then a propane one?
Enter your email address to join: