American Amber Ale House Amber (AG & Extract)

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Looks this might be a winner for the contest titled "what I'm going to brew Monday."

I'm this close --> <-- to finally trying all-grain, but I feel like I need to learn more about water chemistry. SO, in the meantime:

What's the "mash" or resting temperature and time for the dextrine and Crystal? 150-160 for 30 mins?

ETA: Ooh! ALSO: I do full volume boils. How much should I back off on the additions?

Thanks!

Ike
 
Looks this might be a winner for the contest titled "what I'm going to brew Monday."

I'm this close --> <-- to finally trying all-grain, but I feel like I need to learn more about water chemistry. SO, in the meantime:

What's the "mash" or resting temperature and time for the dextrine and Crystal? 150-160 for 30 mins?

ETA: Ooh! ALSO: I do full volume boils. How much should I back off on the additions?

Thanks!

Ike

This beer is great. Make it!

If you are talking steeping dextrine and crystal, do 1 quart per lb at 150F for 30 minutes. Its not critical. If I steep with extract I add water for the partial, then the grain in a bag and heat it up. Removing it before it passes 160F. If I'm busy preping stuff, I let it rest, flame out for 30-40 minutes at 150F or so.

Don't let the water chemistry stop you from going all grain.

Do you have good tasting water right from the tap? If so, don't worry about it, it can get pretty complicated. I don't worry about it....

For info read the website, how to brew by John Palmer http://www.howtobrew.com/

More specifically; http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15.html

Your local water treatment facility can send you a water report, then you will look at what your water is like regionally from famous brewing regions. I believe Palmer (the author) has instructions of what to add, like so much distilled water, calcium sulfate CaSO4 (gypsum) and sodium chloride NaCl (salt). Its been awhile since it read it though.

So is your water hard or soft or in between? I think hard means it has alot of gypsum and salts, where soft is low on both.

Charlie Papazian recomends that you that dechlorinate your water. Do this via carbon filtration or you can boil it or measure it out then just leave it out uncovered overnight. The chlorine will out-gas and be gone. I think it depends how chlorinated it seems. Who's to judge. Does it taste like a swimming pool? :D

If you know your water is soft, he (Charlie) recommends 1 to 4 teaspoons of gypsum and 1/2 teaspoon of salt per 5 gallons. He says this is completely optional. He also says or emphasizes no more than 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

If you are a pro then this is more important for adhereance to a style or maintaining an established flavor profile. It can also effect a profit margin of a pro-brewer. (The paragraphs are paraphrased from Charlies Book TCJOHB.)

The calcium (Ca) ion helps for removal proteins, tannins, and grain husk flavors during the boil. These can leave a haze if not removed and may make your beer taste slightly harsher than if was removed. After fermentation this ion aides in clearing, helps yeast sediment easier.

The sulfate ion (SO4) will help with giving your beer a crisp clean taste. Too much will result in poor hop utilization (lack of bittering). The taste is more salty and harsh with a possible laxative effect.

The sodium ion (Na) enhances other flavor characteristics, but contributes nothing itself. Too much makes it harsh, sour or metalic.

The chloride ion (Cl) helps lend a soft, round full sweeter flavor to beer. No notable negatives.

FWIW - I add nothing to my water. I live in central Illinois and have city water. When I lived in Iowa and was on rural water I carbon filtered and checked the pH. Hoping it was close to 5.2. Back then, I brewed outside and had a white food grade hose and carbon filter for motor homes. It worked pretty good. Both available at wal-mart.

I used to use "5" a pH stabilizer. If you want high mash efficiency and are using a lot acidic grains (more highly kilned) they can lower the pH. This stabolizer help get it right to 5.2 pH. Its a buffer for pH, salts and minerals.

Remember - If your water tastes good right from the tap, use it. You can obsess about water profiles later. Brew all-grain and taste the difference.
 
ETA: Ooh! ALSO: I do full volume boils. How much should I back off on the additions?

Thanks!

Ike

Enter this in Malt IO Adjust for hop additions to hit the IBU target.

NOTE: This all-grain calculator doesn't account for grain absorbtion. Each pound will absorb 1/10 of a gallon adjust accordingly;

6lbs = 0.6 gallons of water
7lbs = 0.7 gallons of water
8lbs = 0.8 gallons of water
9lbs = 0.9 gallons of water
10lbs = 1.0 gallon of water​
 
THANKS for all the great info, will do!

Thanks again!
 
Enter this in Malt IO Adjust for hop additions to hit the IBU target.


That's a great list of recipes! More meat for the grinder; it was immediately bookmarked. Although I didn't use it to enter the recipe I found the IBU calculator on Brewer's Friend, which suggests going with 0.5 ounces at 60 and 30 (leaving the flameout/dry hop unchanged obviously) will yield similar results. Cool!

Thanks, yet again!

Ike
 
That's a great list of recipes! More meat for the grinder; it was immediately bookmarked. Although I didn't use it to enter the recipe I found the IBU calculator on Brewer's Friend, which suggests going with 0.5 ounces at 60 and 30 (leaving the flameout/dry hop unchanged obviously) will yield similar results. Cool!

Thanks, yet again!

Ike

That's good, saves you an ounce for next time. I'm making this right now....Smoking Gun
 
jGh6t44.jpg


Brewed the all grain recipe about a month ago and just got it on tap. It still needs to clear up a little but it's tasting great. Nice carmel notes with just enough bitterness to back it up. Great beer to have on tap for fall. Thanks for the recipe.
 
Looking forward to brew this one up today! I've scaled down to a 3.5 gallon batch size and using s-05 instead of the Notty. Other than that, following the OP. :mug:
 
jGh6t44.jpg


Brewed the all grain recipe about a month ago and just got it on tap. It still needs to clear up a little but it's tasting great. Nice carmel notes with just enough bitterness to back it up. Great beer to have on tap for fall. Thanks for the recipe.

You're Welcome!!
 
So I brewed this recipe back in May, adding only 1/4 lb of honey malt, and submitted it to the Maryland Microbrew competition back in September. It ended up placing 3rd in the American Amber (10B) category. I call it my "Aviator Amber". Great recipe, thanks for the inspiration! I'm going to brew it again tomorrow!
 
Really going to try and get this bottled today. I'll miss the Thanksgiving day mark, but should be great by Christmas!
This will also probably be the last of my extract brewing. I've got all my materials to start BIAB :mug:
 


Picture doesn't do this beer justice. Been in the bottle about 2 weeks now, so still a bit early, but very,very good all the same. Love the malty/creaminess of this brew with just enough bite. Only thing I would change on my next batch is brewing up a whole 5 gallons and maybe a dry hop addition.
This is good stuff!:mug:
 
Just wanted to bump this thread and reiterate how good this recipe is. I bumped the IBU's on this up to 35 and it's a now a wonderful malty amber with some pale ale hoppyness. Rebrewing this one Sunday!
 
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