What to use for screen in MLT?

I recently decided to make the AG plunge (way overdue). So I had a keggle built w/ SSwelds on a ball valve. Bought a turkey burner. And recently purchased a 10 gal rubbermaid round orange cooler. I heard that 10 gal was the way to go if you want big beers (who doesnt)! So now I need to set up the valve and screen/bottom for the MLT.

My question is this: which is going to give me better efficiency with my 10 gal round cooler, a false bottom, bazooka t, mesh screen, slots cut into some appropriate grade PVC, or what? I was thinking false bottom would be the best way to do it but I just want some opinions. If I'm doing it then I'm going to do it right!

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I couldnt turn up on the search. Thanks for the help.

I use copper pieces with slots cut on the bottom.

The problem (I think) with a screen is that a really big grain bill could compact the bed so tightly that slow/stuck sparges might occur.

If you use slots...make sure the cut side is down.

Do you think that would be a problem with a false bottom?

Lots of people like a False Bottom. My Concern is that it can become dislodged and hard to clean.
I like the copper Manifold, but this is a discussion that can go round and Round and Round.
Mine has 32 holes drilled with a 1/8" bit...Holes go DOWN!

i just purchased a false bottom from austinhomebrew. i had made a braid with tubing in the braid, but had three stuck mashes in a row. the false bottom hasn't failed me yet after three batches.

eschatz said:

Do you think that would be a problem with a false bottom?

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I have several false bottoms still available for sale. PM me if you want one. I have a few 10" and a few 15" hinged and a few 15" not hinged. I also have 1 12" still available. do a serch for stainless false bottoms.
Cheers
JJ
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=65065 check this thread

If you're going to use a braid, reinforce it by snaking a slotted piece of tubing inside. Basically you end up with a semi-rigid manifold inside a steel braid...crush-proof, easy to make and cheap to boot. I've never had even a hint of a stuck mash, and very little vorlaufing is required before the wort runs clear.

Thanks guys. I think I'll probably do some more research but I'm leaning towards a copper manifold.

eschatz said:

Thanks guys. I think I'll probably do some more research but I'm leaning towards a copper manifold.

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I've got a copper manifold also and have been very happy with it.

All these replies and no one asked what is desired sparge method is. *disappointment*

If you plan to batch sparge, go with the stainless braid. There's more of a chance to have a stuck sparge trying to batch sparge with a false bottom. The braid is dirt cheap and I am suspect that anyone have a stuck sparge with it has mistakenly bought a plastic replica of a stainless braided sink supply line. Also, you shouldn't need to reinforce it with anything if you keep it short (say 12" long) unless you plan to stir your mash with a sledge hammer or a piece of firewood.

There's nothing wrong with a copper manifold either, just a slightly higher cost and longer build time. You can fly sparge on this also.

The false bottom is ideal for fly sparging and Jaybird's product is excellent.

If you plan to batch sparge, go with the stainless braid.

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+1. I've been using a stainless braid for batch sparging for some time now, and have not run into any stuck sparge problems. Last one I did was a wit, which can sometimes stick, but I didn't have any problems. I also put a some vinyl tubing (with some small cuts in it) into the braid for support. Works great for me, and it is cheap and easy to make.

I have only used a false bottom but I have also never had any problems with it. The only time I got a stuck sparge was the first wheat I did and didn't have rice hulls. But I get no channeling, it has never been dislodged, and it just lifts out to clean, and my efficiency kicks ass.

I use a Bazooka Tube. Its easy to use and clean and its pretty darn tuff. It also won't colapse under the weight of the grain.

I usually get 75% Eff @ 60min. I gotten 91% @ 90 min as well.

If you go w/ the B-Tube and it doesn't fit in the cooler, flatten the end and roll it up like a tube of tooth paste. I had to do this for installation.

BTW - I batch sparge.

Bobby_M said:

All unless you plan to stir your mash with a sledge hammer or a piece of firewood.

.

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sledgehammer IPA I like it.......




To the OP I use a wire braid that I removed from a Hot water heater hose works very well never had a stuck sparge used it because it was the largest diam I could find think its 5/8ths.

I use a false bottom in my tun and batch sparge. I just finished a piece I have been needing for a while now though. I use those polysulphone quick disconnects and they really like to stop up unless you drill out the center of them. I decided it was enough and built a little screen to oust the hose clogging. Here is what I came up with to screw into the bottom of my mash tun drain (mine is centrally located in the bottom of my MT).


and an upside down view to see the threads and drain holes.


And finally, it in the bottom of my tun waiting for the false bottom to cover it. Sorry the picture is so fuzzy, you can see the indention in the bottom of the keg though and how this fits in.

Bobby_M said:

unless you plan to stir your mash with a sledge hammer or a piece of firewood.

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You kill me Bobby!! That is damn funny!!

Bobby_M, you see any problems with using this with my false bottom and a directly attached pump for wort recycling? I won't be cranking the pump up and will probably get a little more aggressive than a gravity dump would normally be. I just wonder if I am not thinking of something or if this gets me where I need to be.