Move to 240?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CoalCracker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
1,654
Reaction score
106
Location
Macungie, Pa
I will be moving in a few months and the brewery will be in the garage about 15ft from the panel. Right now I have two 2000w 120v elements running my HLT/BK. Both together are running at 33.3amps. If I move to a 240v 4500w element it would run ~ 19amps. A significant difference. Would the cost saving of electricity out way the cost of upgrading? I would need a new BK (penrose) and possibly build a new control panel. Or, should I stay 120v? My current set up works great. Just don't want to spend more running it than I need to.
 
I probably would not bother. I believe that if you run the numbers 240@19 is more power than 120@33, thus more expensive per batch (plus you loose any efficiencies of running 1 120V element to maintain temp).
 
Very, very simple solution. Rewire your controller to a new plan for 120V / 240V and then use the same elements. That knocks the amp draw down to 16.67 amps. Same total watts but a lot easier to configure, control and use. Also very easy to select either or both elements. Add a PID and you have ultimate control.

BTW: I don't think you need to change (reconfigure) your kettles to accomplish this.
 
2 hours on full * 5000W = 10 kWh * $0.1/kWh = $1.00 per batch.

Even if save a quarter a batch, it will take a LONG time to make any upgrade cost back.
 
I use an Auber PID. So I would just take two of the legs out of the 240 and take it to the PID? Then do the same for the SSR?
 
You will NEVER recoup your costs. If you are not having problems, I wouldn't touch it.
 
from the looks of it, you could just change your elements to 4500W/240V and hook to 240 and have more than double the power... The time saved heating water/boiling each batch is WELL WORTH the upgrade from 2KW to 4.5KW :-D

-mike
(disclaimer - assuming your wiring size is good, and proper wiring practices are taken, including grounding)
 
No originally when I drew up the diagram I was going to use 4 separate outlets, instead I used regular 20 amp outlets and cut the bridge in the middle. So the 4 on each side are the outlets. Only two of them use the SSRs for the element, both are controlled by one PID. I know what I did, however I'm not good with the wiring diagrams. More or less there just for me to visualize. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Ok, I think I sort of figured out your setup. I drew a diagram that I thinks represents it the way it is now:

(Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid pater 11" x 17".)





Then if you decided to go to a 240V outlet the wiring diagram becomes this:






It would be fairly easy for you to change the elements to a higher wattage and then add control switches so that you can use the same basic setup to go to a 2 kettle system.

Hope this helps you.

P-J
 
Yup, that's actually perfect, only thing missing is I have a switch cutting power to each of the SSRs so I can turn the elements off independently. Looks easy enough to switch it up though.
 
If you make those switches you mention on-off-on, with the center going to the SSR and put a 6-12v supply on the unused ON terminal and you will have HOA (Hand-OFF-Auto) for PID override in both on and off.
 
watts are watts, you dont save money using half the current at twice the voltage. It wont save you any money in electricity.
 
watts are watts, you dont save money using half the current at twice the voltage. It wont save you any money in electricity.
Very true.

However: it does make the setup a lot easier to manage and control. Plus: with the proper setup it is also somewhat safer during the brew session.
 
I'm planning an upgrade here in the future and the 240v is the route I'll take. Then I'm adding a third kettle for the boil and using propane. The rest will be electric. Going to do a three tier like the B32050. I like the idea of only one plug. Less hard wired electrical I'll have to have done. Lucky my BIL is an electrician.

Thanks for all the input!
 
Back
Top